Building a house in Trinidad

[Duane 3NE 2NR]

Good night all. Does anywhere in Trinidad do glass garage doors as in the image attached?
Please let me know if any one is aware.
Point me in the direction if you do.IMG-20200613-WA0007.jpeg

Google "Garage Doors Trinidad" - there are a number of suppliers. Most won't have that glass version in stock but they can bring it in and install it with warranty.

[carluva]

To add what adjn said... The concrete will not reach full strength until at least 14 days, so you have so time to do a good patch that'll cure close to the fresh concrete.

What I'll add though is to take a grinder and saw out the footprint in cubes. Then you'll have good edges for the patch to bond. Prepare the patch as advised and feather edge the top.

The down side now is that no matter what you do, the patches will always be visible as they will be of a different colour.

I'm concerned about the patchwork separating or cracking and lifting out after a while. Will the PVA act like a glue?

Hello guys. Just did a driveway but a dog walked on the wet concrete leaving some deep footprints. What do you recommend to fix?

Make certain that the prints are flat or slightly concave.
Mix 3 parts sharp sand to 1 part cement.
Add enough water to make it workable.
Fill the prints and let dry until firm.
Smooth and feather the fill into the surrounding concrete while sprinkling water on the surface as necessary.

For older concrete, prep with PVA and amend the concrete mix as indicated on the label.

If the concrete is less than about 90 days old, you may not need it. PVA is inexpensive and will add adhesion. If you want to use it, go ahead.

PVA (polyvinyl acetate) is indeed an adhesive and is the same as white school glue, Elmer's glue and indoor carpenter's glue.

[rspann]

Tie the dog.

[pugboy]

that dog go walk on the patch for spite

[nemisis]

Is there any legal implications to putting up a retaining wall on the state land behind my house?

[2ndchance]

Thanks for the advice guys. What's a reasonably priced treatment to protect or seal concrete? In addition to the driveway. I have a (covered) garage and some (uncovered) apron around the garage to protect. I've got a recommendation to use BS66 from SCL to seal. The data sheet says no need for etching on new concrete, just spray on. I'm assuming this also means no need to grind the new concrete surfaces unless it's to get a smooth or prettier looking finish.

One guy has suggested to use grano as it would also cover the dog's footprints. But I'm guessing grano will be more costly than applying a sealer like BS66.

[rayrayray]

Good night all. Does anywhere in Trinidad do glass garage doors as in the image attached?
Please let me know if any one is aware.
Point me in the direction if you do.IMG-20200613-WA0007.jpeg

Google "Garage Doors Trinidad" - there are a number of suppliers. Mot won't have that glass version in stock but they can bring it in and install it with warranty.

Ok will have a look into it. Thanks for the reply.

[carluva]

I believe BS66 yellows under UV light and degrades with hot tyre pickup. So I've been told by someone who uses it.

Grano is terrazzo before it's been grinded and polished. Cost can add up depending on area to be done.

Most cost effective option is PVA diluted in water. I cannot remember the dilution ratio off hand for a sealer but it's usually on the bottle. Dilute per instructions and scrub/spread into the surface. Best to do when concrete is fully cured. Also, make sure the surface is clean and damp. Best time to do it is evening when it's cool so the water does not evaporate and the mixture has a chance to soak in.

While this is not permanent, depending on your pressure washing regime, this coat should last 8-12 months. So whenever you pressure wash, reapply the PVA. It also prevents water absorption on the concrete which is good for mildew and moss prevention.

This also helps with the dusting you get on the surface of the concrete if not property finished.

Thanks for the advice guys. What's a reasonably priced treatment to protect or seal concrete? In addition to the driveway. I have a (covered) garage and some (uncovered) apron around the garage to protect. I've got a recommendation to use BS66 from SCL to seal. The data sheet says no need for etching on new concrete, just spray on. I'm assuming this also means no need to grind the new concrete surfaces unless it's to get a smooth or prettier looking finish.

One guy has suggested to use grano as it would also cover the dog's footprints. But I'm guessing grano will be more costly than applying a sealer like BS66.

[Emmar01]

I've got some boxing board for sale if anyone's interested. PM me or check the cross-post on the Miscellaneous Classified.

[fokhan_96]

Yes. PolyV is cheap and is "good enough".

I believe BS66 yellows under UV light and degrades with hot tyre pickup. So I've been told by someone who uses it.

Grano is terrazzo before it's been grinded and polished. Cost can add up depending on area to be done.

Most cost effective option is PVA diluted in water. I cannot remember the dilution ratio off hand for a sealer but it's usually on the bottle. Dilute per instructions and scrub/spread into the surface. Best to do when concrete is fully cured. Also, make sure the surface is clean and damp. Best time to do it is evening when it's cool so the water does not evaporate and the mixture has a chance to soak in.

While this is not permanent, depending on your pressure washing regime, this coat should last 8-12 months. So whenever you pressure wash, reapply the PVA. It also prevents water absorption on the concrete which is good for mildew and moss prevention.

This also helps with the dusting you get on the surface of the concrete if not property finished.

Thanks for the advice guys. What's a reasonably priced treatment to protect or seal concrete? In addition to the driveway. I have a (covered) garage and some (uncovered) apron around the garage to protect. I've got a recommendation to use BS66 from SCL to seal. The data sheet says no need for etching on new concrete, just spray on. I'm assuming this also means no need to grind the new concrete surfaces unless it's to get a smooth or prettier looking finish.

One guy has suggested to use grano as it would also cover the dog's footprints. But I'm guessing grano will be more costly than applying a sealer like BS66.

[2ndchance]

3 to 8 months between applications is too frequent for me. How long do you think an acrylic based sealer like B66 will be effective before I have to re-apply? When re-applying a sealer like B66, would I have to remove whatever remains from the previous application by maybe chemical etching or some kind of mechanical scrub or light grinder even if re-applying the same sealer?

The other option I'm considering is an epoxy sealer as it should last longer than acrylic sealer but aside from the increased cost, I'm concerned that it might be more slippery when rain falls.

Can you guys recommend a contractor who is skilled in sealing concrete?

I believe BS66 yellows under UV light and degrades with hot tyre pickup. So I've been told by someone who uses it.

Grano is terrazzo before it's been grinded and polished. Cost can add up depending on area to be done.

Most cost effective option is PVA diluted in water. I cannot remember the dilution ratio off hand for a sealer but it's usually on the bottle. Dilute per instructions and scrub/spread into the surface. Best to do when concrete is fully cured. Also, make sure the surface is clean and damp. Best time to do it is evening when it's cool so the water does not evaporate and the mixture has a chance to soak in.

While this is not permanent, depending on your pressure washing regime, this coat should last 8-12 months. So whenever you pressure wash, reapply the PVA. It also prevents water absorption on the concrete which is good for mildew and moss prevention.

This also helps with the dusting you get on the surface of the concrete if not property finished.

Thanks for the advice guys. What's a reasonably priced treatment to protect or seal concrete? In addition to the driveway. I have a (covered) garage and some (uncovered) apron around the garage to protect. I've got a recommendation to use BS66 from SCL to seal. The data sheet says no need for etching on new concrete, just spray on. I'm assuming this also means no need to grind the new concrete surfaces unless it's to get a smooth or prettier looking finish.

One guy has suggested to use grano as it would also cover the dog's footprints. But I'm guessing grano will be more costly than applying a sealer like BS66.

[mantis]

Can anyone tell me who sells this in Trinidad this is for concrete countertop

[Kronik]

Can anyone tell me who sells this in Trinidad this is for concrete countertop

Screenshot_20200615-160554_Samsung%20Internet.jpeg

Is only yesterday I see a video with that, well the flat one not the curved one

[mantis]

Yes there is also a flat one

[mantis]

Also who sell good table top tile cutter

[Musical Doc]

With the rain falling, I found water was seeping through a small crack in the wall and coming inside. How best should I fix it? I was thinking to use a grinder and cut the mortar along the crack and use some mortar mix and seal it back. Any suggestions?

[maj. tom]

Similar discovery i made last year. I suspected that the 2018 earthquake had loosened something minor and was causing water to get in.
Used a grinder to cut the groove at the crack and then used this:

Look for either at Bhagwansingh's.

https://www.liquidnails.com/products/co ... tar-repair

https://www.liquidnails.com/products/la ... -statement

[Musical Doc]

Similar discovery i made last year. I suspected that the 2018 earthquake had loosened something minor and was causing water to get in.
Used a grinder to cut the groove at the crack and then used this:

Look for either at Bhagwansingh's.

https://www.liquidnails.com/products/co ... tar-repair

https://www.liquidnails.com/products/la ... -statement

Thanks! Will look into this!

[carluva]

Harricrete distributes a product called "Waterplug" it is a cementitous product that is designed to seal cracks and prevent leaks. Its a non shrink product which expands to fill voids.

[pugboy]

I had a similar issue with some concrete that was cast in portions so there was a seam which was naked to the eye
nothing worked except some good ol tar

[The_Honourable]

Have this issue at my home also. Broke up the crack with a grinder, put a bit of steel, cast with cement and repainted... but the crack opened back up during dry season altho not as bad as before.

I'll consider the liquid nails and waterplug... thanks tuners.

[NR8]

Guys I need some advice. I would like to use the decorative cement board for kitchen counter tops. It is only 1/4" thick though and I think the thin edge will look weird. What can I use or do to make it look like the thickness of a regular stone slab?

[adnj]

You can create something similar to a 1/4 bevel edge.

A wooden support strip is attached the underside of your counter underlament and flush to the outside edge.

A strip of countertop material is added to the face of the support flush to the top of or slightly above the underlament.

You will be left with a small gap at the joint of the counter top and the edge. Fill this joint in with a dark, pigmented epoxy of a complementary color. Sand and polish the bevel flat once the epoxy fully cures.

Works for most solid surface countertop materials if you want to avoid milling the edges.

[screwbash]

so this decorative cement board cud take jammin? like a hot pot or a knife fall? who selling this product ?

[NR8]

So they say. Pionare Enterprises selling it.

[*KRONIK*]

Fellaz

I wanna build a garage/shed on empty lot

Was thinking of a purlin frame and galvanise sheeting for the roof and walls.

Its going to be a temporary fixture as i will need to move it when construction starts.

Is it advisable to plant the posts by casting in augered holes, then level the flooring with sandfill and screed about 2"?

Trying to avoid casting a trenched base


Help mih here

[adnj]

Create support footings by augering the holes and filling forms that are mutually leveled all around the site.

Add a bracket to the top of this pier that allows you to attach the structure's columns.

Since the structure is temporary and there is no frost heaving, ignore the expanded footing.

Edit: if you cast the before the structure is built and skirt to include the piers, you will have a more robust pier system.

[img]https://extremehowto.com/wp-content/uploads/hotprod_images/f73034ba-aa7e-454a-8ce2-43950577ed80[1].jpg[/img]

[*KRONIK*]

Plan was to auger, and cast in the c-purlin 1 time, but i like your idea.

[adnj]

Pylons can be less of a challenge than trying to square and level all of the buildings columns. You get no soil reaction with the CRS purlins and you can adjust for any slight errors in placement.

You might be able to speed up your construction by building walls on the ground and then raising them into place. You could dismantle the building the same way.

[*KRONIK*]

Was actually thinking of doing swing out gates as the walls, so i can open it up on all sides for light and ventilation

Pylons can be less of a challenge than trying to square and level all of the buildings columns. You get no soil reaction with the CRS purlins and you can adjust for any slight errors in placement.

You might be able to speed up your construction by building walls on the ground and then raising them into place. You could dismantle the building the same way.