Turbo Swift sport

[ng357]

my question to you guys is can u turbo the sport automatic transmission. i heard the transmission cannot take the torque or something soo that it will mash up the automatic trans. help me out here plz!?

[chris1388]

my question to you guys is can u turbo the sport automatic transmission. i heard the transmission cannot take the torque or something soo that it will mash up the automatic trans. help me out here plz!?

I think that should be the lesser of your worries because turbo charging the swift sport on the whole may be a bit complicated due to the high compression ratio of the engine. I'm not saying it cant be done but it will cost a lot of money, require LOTS of time and patience and of course there is the possibility it can go all wrong and you end up damaging the engine which will be a bummer with lifestyle's prices lol. Furthermore, the gains on an automatic swift sport.......i don't think it will be worth the money going through all that but there are a few other guys on here who will tell you more and really if its feasible or not.

I've only ever seen one turbo swift sport and that was on youtube, it's not something that has been done much before, with the kind of compression the swift has you will also have to run very small boost.

[BLUE_CP9A]

Go with the supercharger!

[Alpha_2nr]

Bamboo turbo kit dey orrrr?

Bai......look, there are quite a few supercharger kits out there bolt on for the SSS, from R's racing, SuzukiSport, and Greddy to name the most popular.

Here's a shot of the R's Racing Rotrex:




This kit works out to about 40K TTD imported from Japan.

Here's the Greddy "roots" blower:


This kit is a little bit cheaper......haven't worked out the exact price yet.

Both kits will help the engine reach around 160 or so hp

Here's the SC150 Supercharger kit by SUZUKISPORT (yep...don't get better than being sanctioned by Suzuki themselves!)


The main challenge (as was rightly said above) is dealing with the highcompression ratio of the engine, and the lowered RON of our LOCAL gas (95 vs. the intended 98 in Japan).

There are lower compression pistons I think that are available.

Personally though, I'd have gone with a stroker or maybe just a slightly higher compression (marginally!) with better cams and tuning - the SSS just seems more right IMHO being N/A.


Now of course, if the OP decides to go the ghetto tobo/bamboo tobo-dong kit, well there's much more room for error, damaged internals, etc.

Just saying.

[Alpha_2nr]

Oh yeah, and that's Tsuchiya himself driving the MS Swift Sport there towards the end of that youtube vid.

[Swifted]

brace ...i'd have to sell my shiddy GTI TWICE to pay for that! lol

[Alpha_2nr]

^^Nah....your car is just "different"

[spanglish1]

doh think its worth the money.do some bolt on upgrades when uh get fed up buy a next sports car.

[Alpha_2nr]

Bolt on upgrades + management!!!

Some simple cams with an intake and exhaust.....can do wonders. Add a lighter flywheel to the mix and things get interesting.

R's racing had a nice dyno comparo with simple staged mods....before and after.

[rado]

IMHO, after studying the head of the M16a for many hours, and studying the price of cams for many more hours , I'd have to say it almost doh make sense unless you get the head to flow better.

^^ shameless plug

But seriously, superchargers and turbo kits are popular because they just force air past those tiny valves. Kinda cheating when you think about it, but hard not to consider if you want a turnkey package producing about 140-160 whp.

If 110-115 will suit you, just get some headers e-manage and a drop in filter.

[spanglish1]

i think with the bolt on mods and an emanage on an ss u should get close to 140bhp.the lightened pulley alone adds 8-10hp!

[rado]

Well if you're talking about power at the crankshaft... sure! But at the wheels, not even close. Been there, done that.

[vtmiller11]

If 110-115 will suit you, just get some headers e-manage and a drop in filter.

That'll suit me fine for now, but I want to redline at 8

[rado]

That can be arranged with the e-manage ultimate


But the valve springs are a weak point in the SSS head, so really 7800 should be a maximum for occasional use and 7600 if you live at the red line

[Alpha_2nr]

That'll suit me fine for now, but I want to redline at 8

Yeah but it may not hellp the engine much...doesn't tq kinda drop off higher up.....and of course, seeing that (simply) hp = tq x rpm......



Nonetheless, rado has it spot on as always

[Big Z]

The SSS will have no usable power at 8000 rpm. However, with some head work, that can be fixed.
Anybody know anyone doing quality head work with quantifiable gains?
It sure would be nice if there was a shop like that here.

[rado]

^^^

I feel everybody waiting for me to bite the bullet first!

[NLVA200]

^ wha make yuh feel so?

btw, my auto redlines at 6800

[Mitsu power]

first boosting the SSS can lead to some nice gains but the problem is the thin line that you will have to walk inorder to keep from blowing your engine . As mention earlier by Chris the compression is a contender the next is fuel and finally is the ecu . As for transmission DMW dave ( a swift tunner in AUS ) boosted a 1.5 auto to I think 160 bhp and its tranny hold out . The car was also a daily driver so for the sport the tranny will hold out you just got to know that no N floor the X then slam D.
Compression : 11.1 to 1 that really high for a boosted car for that your boost will be I say for reliability no more that 6 to 7 psi before pinking is an issue and also internals .. Remember the M block is an open deck block so its will be plague to cylinder flex. so proper fuel management is a must no 5th injector also heat reduction that oil under hood and coolant ( my recommendations )
Fuel you may need bigger injectors the sss has a single fuel line with the regulator in the tank so there goes your FPR what you can do is install bigger injectors and a more reliable pump but the sss pump get the job done ..
Now is the most mocked up part the management choice emange ultimate, R reflash ecu, monster ecu. Now you got to tune for the variants of the turbo output ( how good your waste gate is ) air temp. as thos hot day in trinidad will play in to your ping count and if your engine will lean out in a midday sun with A/C on to cause a piston melt down. next is the E-throttle with its little lazy response and last our crapy gas octane that varies with station. now in an ordinary and n/a conversion car these do apply but the error factor is much greater due to there CR.
So for me the parts list will be
port head by rado LOL
T3 turbo / garret gt25
a cast or good custom exhaust manifold
a nice size intercooler a little bigger that what they are selling for the 1.5 kit
oil cooler
2 core radiator
low temp thermostat by ig ignis
monster ecu
bigger injector ( not sure due to lack of info )
thermal coating ceramic for the manifold. and down pipe to reduce temp
if you have the cash pistons and combustion chamber ceramic coating
stronger head gasket with tronger arp head stods .
monster springs
water methanol injection for those really hot days .


I saw some one saying that they should supercharge acording to R 's our fuel and climate requires the addition of a intercooler and oil cooler with the ecu tunning .so that means its only the vortex supercharger will work for us ...

that leaves the N/a tunning you can go port ing by Rado again springs and cams with some exhaust and intake ... but to add the lighten flywheel and pully your droping your torque figures, which means drivability goes out the door .. I had the 1.5 engine with the pully and hillstarts would start at 4000+ rpm to get the car moving and top speed drop by 10 kmph. the next best thinkg is displacement lol but that a bit expensive but every thing is expensive when it comes to suzuki .. kind of make me feel i bought a JP benz LOL

[chris1388]

i think with the bolt on mods and an emanage on an ss u should get close to 140bhp.the lightened pulley alone adds 8-10hp!

na boy....it wont get anywhere close to 140whp....maybe a 140bhp and what pulley is that you talking about the lightened crank pulley? surely it can't be that because that will never add 8whp or bhp

[jm3]

i say when you get bored of the car go out and buy a factory fast car lol i have been looking down the avenues to squeeze power out of the swift but tbh the gains i get for what i have to pay arent worth it the car is fun but tbh you can pick up evos and impreza sti's for the cost of a sss now.

[rado]

^^^ +1

Here's my thought on the ideal "power up" build for the SSS balancing cost, reliability and fun factor.

Headers + drop in K&N filter + e-manage ultimate + valve springs + Ported head

Average prices 4500 + 300 + 5000 + 1100 + 3500 = 14400....WOW (kinda sounds like plenty )

Adding labour for chaging the valve springs, shaving the head a bit, and installing & tuning the e-manage and you still come up less than 20K. And what do you get? 135+ WHP in a car that revs comfortably to 8200 RPM!!!

Maximum fun without compromizing reliability. All this with the stock cams and stock SSS mufflers. No need to change injectors, and the clutch would last a while

[Alpha_2nr]

Here's my thought on and ideal "power up" build for the SSS balancing cost and fun factor.

Headers + drop in K&N filter + e-manage ultimate + valve springs + Ported head

Average prices 4500 + 200 + 5000 + 1100 + 3500 = 14300....WOW

Adding labour for chaging the valve springs, and installing& tuning the e-manage and you still come up less than 20K. And what do you get? 135+ WHP in a car that revs comfortably to 8200 RPM!!!

Excellent summary.......and damn str8 too. Don't forget to add the car will be a sleeper of sorts as well, no one will expect it!!!

[rado]

So 10-15hp down on power compared to the supercharged SSS at less than 50% of the costs!

[chris1388]

but rado tell me something....even tho the car will be able to rev to 8200....will it make any more power up there? what will enable it to rev strongly to that point the emanage tune ?

[rado]

but rado tell me something....even tho the car will be able to rev to 8200....will it make any more power up there? what will enable it to rev strongly to that point the emanage tune ?

Most certainly Chris! A better flowing head will make that possible. The engine suffers from limitations in volumetric efficiency. As the revs come up, the engine cannot "inhale" enough air fast enough to continue producing power. This is why the M15a and M16a engines start to loose torque after 5000, and usually peak HP before 6500 rpm.

At first I thought the intake system was a big factor, but not so. Keeping the valves open longer (with cams) on these engines has limitations since the VVT becomes a factor. More lift clashes with the design of the intake ports, so better flow is the most fundemental (root cause) solution. If I could, I'd use bigger valves, but I'll talk more about that another time.

This is the reason why I have good confidence with the stock cams on a ported head. Your pocket, drivability and street manners would not be affected, but re-designed ports could just get a heck of alot more air in and out the engine.

I'll demonstrate soon enough

[chris1388]

arite kool....well i guess everything u saying applicable to the ignis sport too right? As soon as i graduate and get a job i think i will take that route you speaking of....step by step of course. So the ignis would be able to rev to how much if it redlines at 6500 now?

[spanglish1]

rado i think everybody waiting for you to take the plunge!i am tempted to do some bolt on mods but my warranty would be out the door!anyone installed the lightened crank pulley?is there any loss of power on the top end or steady gains throughout the range?

[ng357]

rado so you cud do this porting and ting your self, and will this make the block weaker,

[rado]

rado so you cud do this porting and ting your self?

Yup, that's what the Precision Performance logo is all about. I use a Flow Bench to guide my porting. But I must say that without the donation of an M- series head from Marcus, I would not have had so much time to study and experiment with these heads.

All in all, there is not so much material to be removed from the head, so it does not weaken it at all. It's all about where to take if off, and how much to remove.

On my test head, I used a different approach on each intake port, then resorted to using epoxy to fill some areas just to get an ideal shape. So I've tested at least 7 different configurations on these ports.

PS The epoxy is just for the test head, this will never be used on an engine; just the flow bench.