trinituner.com

is this a good engine?....this is the 13B yes?....whould the engine be rebuilt before i buy it?....its not going to be a performance engine (ie track or racing)....but i needto know its good and bad points...its day to day running (if the car is to be used as a daily driver).....


whats the ceiling price on an engine like this?..ive been hearing 10K and 12K for an engine built with "atkins" seals (whatever that means)..


i like a man coming out of Vtec here...help meh!!!

Safeq, MAZTUNE, GT RACING, etc etc...all the rotary men, where allyuh?
Bobo in need of assistance...Ras down ras down!
nah big kixxx...was discussing this with BANzai and it'll be really appreciative if some of you guys throw some comments in here, opinions/advice/just general knowledge...


BANzai, i made apost in here already explaining all of mazdas rotary engines and a lil overview of them out the factory, cant remember what title i used so i'm having the hardest f-ing time finding it...should try digging it up..

^^nice.... will look forward to it...as i said..its not a "big racer" type engine...also need advice on a good exhaust setup..something rich and slightly noisy....yeh...slightly...lol

^Streetport, 3" downpipe with 3" exhaust a cat converter and a GReddy or Apex'i barrel should treat u nicely!
The cat helps keep some of the noise dwon and i've found that apex'i and greddy barrels in general aren't very noisy, very streetable.
HKS, Mozart and RSR on the other hand are noisy as ass imo i have a mozart on mine now, and between that and the walbro i have no need for a radio at all

From what u explained to me is the intention, i'd say:
-Series 5 (TurboII) w/ gearbox
-Streetport and rebuild with either original steel apex seals or aftermarket 3mm's
-Walbro 255lph pump, braided lines, regulator, and if u can source them some FD injectors
-Upgraded ignition will be necessary or atleast advisable
-I'd convert the TMIC to V-mount, saves on piping and distance as well as keeps the radiator unblocked, keepeing engine temps fairly cool, a must with rotaries.
-An act six puck clutch disc and pp whould hold nicely and very streetable
-Upgrade ur rad as well, a fluidyne or custom made 4 core is more than sufficient for a mildly modded motor
-Profec boost controller
-Some sort of fuel tuning would be needed, atleats to get the motor running teh way it should when rebuilt...an SAFCII works fine for mild mods i've found...and isnt as costly as say an emanage
^^Or you could contact rivaracing on the forums, he does reflashes on series 4/5 ecus, cheaper if u give him your stock ecu and he gives u a reflashed unit, i'm sure u could also have him reflash the ecu to suit ur mods etc...cheaper and less hassle than going piggyback or standalone for a street project imo..

I'm sure i forgot a couple things, but thats the general direction i would haev taken with this, feel free to elaborate/correct/tax the ideas as you guys see fit.

As with all mih posts, i stand to be corrected, so feel free if i need to be

ok there are a few points to watch when owning a rotary engine
1) never lean out the engine( dont go too low on gas, change fuel filters regularly)
2) never overheat

when you now buying the engine, do a compression test or pull the leading plugs on the engine and spin it until u actually see the apex seal take a small flat head and push it to see if it spring back if not that apex stick down or done. rebuild. if all apex seem good, spin the engine with this same plug out and hear the compression. once all 3 chambers bussing hard lol its ok. do the same for the rear rotor.

an engine with new seals can give you over 100000K of life and used seals vary maybe 6 months to a year. The reason why ppl say atkins is because the seal powder if the engine detonates so it does not affect the housings, plates, or turbo. stock mazda seals are break into a million pieces destroying everything.

a foreign used engine with ok seals go for around 9K. well thats how much i sell them for anyways. oh dont rush to do exhaust first, work on cooling, and fuel first then exhaust, boost creep could blow the engine. so radiator, intercooler, fuel pump, and maybe an aftermarket ECU (i have one for sale by d way) then run exhaust and maybe a boost controller if u sure u have fuel and can retard timing the stock ECU does nothing after 12psi.

well thats my 2cs for now. if you do everything correctly u will have a reliable rotary engine as a daily driver.

^^ PM sent.....

Ok well you have all you need there
1 question though - What shell are you using this in?

1 Other thing to note - Select a very reliable mech and know everything done in your car which is just reasonable for any general tuning but have no mistakes with your rotary, as well do a set of checks yourself
Better to spend the couple minutes verifying your oil and water levels etc than weeks fixing
Don't use synthetic oil though, I know some say this is debatable as in some cases Royal Purple is recommended by some and in other cases people say nah
Keep hope alive and yuh seals too lol

Anyway really hope you get through, Maztune is a proper company run by honest knowledgeable hard working and committed entrepreneurs and Razkal have data like whoa on rotary...I'm still saying buss a series 5 in the 1st Gen Raz

Enjoy it, each day I'm enjoying my 12a more lol
I'll join you turbo boys one of these days

^Someday soon man dsi Is u self i comin by to pick up a new "heart" as soon as time permits

I agree on the "no synthec" policy, very debatable, some sites/forums will advise on using high quality synthec. i Recommend trying Kendall, pm NarendZorce to find out what grade he uses and where he gets it from.
...A word of warning...adding ATF does not solve flooding problems eh...it may work and have u starting in no time, but it will quite literally fcuk your selas over, i mean all engine seals...
That "atf trick' is a common piece of advice i've seen and heard many ppl give to other rotary owners like its a passage from the bible

Banzi here is a useful link that can help if you needing to rebuild

http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.com

As Razkal and Safeq stated you can't go wrong with a rotary, its actually one of the most reliable engines if maintained properly and abuse regularly .
Just remember Roti likes to swell, so drive it like you stole it and you go like yuh self

word of advice.. Please be aware of what you're getting into with the required mantainence and high cost for parts.. The civic could take lix all day and still ask for more but try doing that to a rotary without the proper know how and you'll be sorry.. Also there are maybe 1 or 2 real rotary mechanics in T&T that have an idea on what they doing so be careful who you have tinkering around with your car... Once all the conditions are right then you have yourself one hellova ride that will outlive you... good luck

Razkal wrote:^Streetport, 3" downpipe with 3" exhaust a cat converter and a GReddy or Apex'i barrel should treat u nicely!
The cat helps keep some of the noise dwon and i've found that apex'i and greddy barrels in general aren't very noisy, very streetable.
HKS, Mozart and RSR on the other hand are noisy as ass imo i have a mozart on mine now, and between that and the walbro i have no need for a radio at all

From what u explained to me is the intention, i'd say:
-Series 5 (TurboII) w/ gearbox
-Streetport and rebuild with either original steel apex seals or aftermarket 3mm's
-Walbro 255lph pump, braided lines, regulator, and if u can source them some FD injectors
-Upgraded ignition will be necessary or atleast advisable
-I'd convert the TMIC to V-mount, saves on piping and distance as well as keeps the radiator unblocked, keepeing engine temps fairly cool, a must with rotaries.
-An act six puck clutch disc and pp whould hold nicely and very streetable
-Upgrade ur rad as well, a fluidyne or custom made 4 core is more than sufficient for a mildly modded motor
-Profec boost controller
-Some sort of fuel tuning would be needed, atleats to get the motor running teh way it should when rebuilt...an SAFCII works fine for mild mods i've found...and isnt as costly as say an emanage
^^Or you could contact rivaracing on the forums, he does reflashes on series 4/5 ecus, cheaper if u give him your stock ecu and he gives u a reflashed unit, i'm sure u could also have him reflash the ecu to suit ur mods etc...cheaper and less hassle than going piggyback or standalone for a street project imo..

I'm sure i forgot a couple things, but thats the general direction i would haev taken with this, feel free to elaborate/correct/tax the ideas as you guys see fit.

As with all mih posts, i stand to be corrected, so feel free if i need to be

the FD (3rd gen injectors may not work cause they tend to come side feed and not top feed if I remember correctly , the the seals, nine option would be 2mm Apex by Atkins, they run well.

MAZTUNE wrote:ok there are a few points to watch when owning a rotary engine
1) never lean out the engine( dont go too low on gas, change fuel filters regularly)
2) never overheat

when you now buying the engine, do a compression test or pull the leading plugs on the engine and spin it until u actually see the apex seal take a small flat head and push it to see if it spring back if not that apex stick down or done. rebuild. if all apex seem good, spin the engine with this same plug out and hear the compression. once all 3 chambers bussing hard lol its ok. do the same for the rear rotor.

an engine with new seals can give you over 100000K of life and used seals vary maybe 6 months to a year. The reason why ppl say atkins is because the seal powder if the engine detonates so it does not affect the housings, plates, or turbo. stock mazda seals are break into a million pieces destroying everything.

a foreign used engine with ok seals go for around 9K. well thats how much i sell them for anyways. oh dont rush to do exhaust first, work on cooling, and fuel first then exhaust, boost creep could blow the engine. so radiator, intercooler, fuel pump, and maybe an aftermarket ECU (i have one for sale by d way) then run exhaust and maybe a boost controller if u sure u have fuel and can retard timing the stock ECU does nothing after 12psi.

well thats my 2cs for now. if you do everything correctly u will have a reliable rotary engine as a daily driver.

Maz, a pal of mines surviving currently in the 15psi level with the stock turbo and ECU , so I'd say you need the fuel more than anything in that sense, the ECU will retard to the point of factory boost cut, correct me if I'm wrong please.

^you're correct, and yeah i checked the injector positioning on the series 6, they are side feed, thanks for the correction homie
2mm atkins, hmmm, never used them or know anyone who did, that's what you're running in urs Mini Charles?
Most ecu's retard to the point of factory boost cut don't they? I'd like to know this as well if anyone can confirm wrt the series6/7 motors.