The Mazda 3 thread

[noshownogo]

a/c is off when attempting a start and yes a light throttle will stop the stalling, ideas?

[Rainman]

a/c is off when attempting a start and yes a light throttle will stop the stalling, ideas?

Did you use a fuel treatment right before you started experiencing the problem?
What kind of driving do you do? (highway, urban etc..)
What kind if fuel do you use?


Your problem is definitely fuel / air related, start with a service. Change air filter (service if you use a k&n, go easy on the oil), clean throttle body, clean maf and contacts. Use the appropriate products...for the MAF sensor cleaning use a MAF sensor cleaner like the CRC brand, for the throttle body use a throttle body cleaner that is sensor safe.

[noshownogo]

I use a fuel treatment but this was never experienced before. Redline SL-1 treatment with mostly urban traffic filled driving and pumping Super since owned. Returning around 400km when the fuel light comes on.

Your suggestions seem solid, so i will look into this. Thanks

[Rainman]

I use premium and i clock 520-530 before the light comes on. But then again i do mostly highway driving and i drive like a tanty Which model M3 do you have? the 2.0 or the 1.6? the compression is fairly high on the MZR engines, that's why i use premium (little sticker on the gas lid recommends 95 RON Min.)

[noshownogo]

1.6 and i've been using super only because the previous owner used super. Engine doesn't ping but i can't say if the mileage is any better with premium cuz i never tired. Figure i'll give the MAF and Throttle body a cleaning this weekend and monitor, may also try premium and look for difference in mileage.

[Rainman]

1.6 and i've been using super only because the previous owner used super. Engine doesn't ping but i can't say if the mileage is any better with premium cuz i never tired. Figure i'll give the MAF and Throttle body a cleaning this weekend and monitor, may also try premium and look for difference in mileage.

Mileage generally isn't better with premium, but my driving is mostly granny style on highway.

[FullStop]

i think ur car not pinging cus it pulling sufficient timing, i really recommed premium to get the most out of this car, ...check this out fellas, just got it today, i waiting for my endlinks to arrive to install

[noshownogo]

alright so today i cleaned my MAF sensor (was black on the air flow side versus amber on the opposite side), Throttle body (was overall clean with the exception of a gunky buildup when the butterfly was closed) , air intake setup (was dusty right through) and manually cleaned the injectors (these had a build on the tips and some residue). Will determine the outcome tomorrow morning on a cold start, we'll see if this resolved the problem.

[Rainman]

alright so today i cleaned my MAF sensor (was black on the air flow side versus amber on the opposite side), Throttle body (was overall clean with the exception of a gunky buildup when the butterfly was closed) , air intake setup (was dusty right through) and manually cleaned the injectors (these had a build on the tips and some residue). Will determine the outcome tomorrow morning on a cold start, we'll see if this resolved the problem.

Any update?
what is your air intake setup? (different from stock?)

[dredman1]

Your problem is definitely fuel / air related, start with a service. Change air filter (service if you use a k&n, go easy on the oil), clean throttle body, clean maf and contacts. Use the appropriate products...for the MAF sensor cleaning use a MAF sensor cleaner like the CRC brand, for the throttle body use a throttle body cleaner that is sensor safe.

Where did you find the CRC MAF cleaner?? Looked around for it but no luck - only found the CRC Quick Dry contact cleaner which I use now.

[FullStop]

i got it at car boutique st james

[noshownogo]

alright so today i cleaned my MAF sensor (was black on the air flow side versus amber on the opposite side), Throttle body (was overall clean with the exception of a gunky buildup when the butterfly was closed) , air intake setup (was dusty right through) and manually cleaned the injectors (these had a build on the tips and some residue). Will determine the outcome tomorrow morning on a cold start, we'll see if this resolved the problem.

Any update?
what is your air intake setup? (different from stock?)

So looks like I really need to check my O2 sensors cuz the problem still exist. Hard start when engine cold.

My air intake is stock with K&N drop-in but i took apart about 4 plastic pieces and washed it out thoroughly.



I also now notice a rattle under the car after a long drive, appears heat related so I thinking a shield under the car, any thoughts?

[Rainman]

I'm not convinced that the problem is with the O2 sensor, in the troubleshooting guidelines for the 3 it clearly says that if light throttle alleviated the hard starting then the IACV is faulty.

[Rainman]

On another note, it looks like one of my rims has a minor bend on it, its minor but its enough for the sound to annoy me. I was thinking about possibly upgrading the rim, i want to keep the 16" but would like to know the implications of going to 17" (more options are available for this size)

[noshownogo]

i know someone running 18's with 225/40 rubber, has some issues with bending rims but the suspension copes with the size. His offset works as well as there is no rubbing on full lock.

Where you getting this info "troubleshooting guidelines for the 3", mazda forum?

[Rainman]

i know someone running 18's with 225/40 rubber, has some issues with bending rims but the suspension copes with the size. His offset works as well as there is no rubbing on full lock.

Where you getting this info "troubleshooting guidelines for the 3", mazda forum?

Vehicle service manual

[FullStop]

mazda folk in the US love 18's, the mazdaspeed 3 comes with 18's stock. 17's are also an option in the mazda 3 but with the 1.6, there was noticeable improvement for me when i went from stock 16's to lightweight 16's, car just moves easier imo.

[Rooki3]

getting back one of these next week

[dredman1]

i got it at car boutique st james

Cool will check them. Have to go back there to get some redline ATF also.

On another note, it looks like one of my rims has a minor bend on it, its minor but its enough for the sound to annoy me. I was thinking about possibly upgrading the rim, i want to keep the 16" but would like to know the implications of going to 17" (more options are available for this size)

17" rims - The good: better looks; more options (both rims & tyres); better handling from the lower profile tyre you'll be using.

17" rims - The bad: more expensive than 16' (both rims & tyres); heavier than a comparable 16"; poorer acceleration, braking and steering response (because of higher unsprung weight from the larger rim/tyre combi); more strain on brakes and suspension components (because of more unsprung weight); and last (a major consideration in T&T) a stiffer ride over bumps (because of the lower profile tyre required).

That said, a lot of the bad can be mitigated by using a lightweight or "racing" 17" rim, which should be at least the same or lighter in weight than your OEM 16", but they are usually much more expensive than the run of the mill 17". Stay away from the heavy a$$ waste of time, overpriced chromes at all costs. Do your own research online and find out which rims are lightest and strongest and within your budget - do NOT take the local salespeople word when they say "yeah this rim real light and strong hoss!". The lower the tyre profile (due to a larger diameter rim), the stronger the rim needs to be to prevent damage over bumps/potholes. As with everything, you have to pay good $$$ to get a good product. The lighter/stronger, the better.

That being said, I have the OEM 17" on my car and I love how it looks - it's one of the reasons I bought the car. It handles well, but the ride can get jarring over bumps at times. But I'm willing to sacrifice most of the bad in exchange for the looks and better handling capabilities. That's just my personal preference though - you may feel differently.

[FullStop]

well the rays mazdaspeed 16's i have are extremely light(can pick up 2 of them with one hand), around 11lbs a piece i think.

ur right though, lower profile tyre on 17's will outhandle the 16's.
As it is, the 3 is a very easy car to drive, comfortable and, so i thought out the mods before proceeding. i figured what was needed was reliability and comfort but a little more fun. so stockish engine for now(short ram aside), and a bit of suspension work, eibach progressive springs to maintain ride quality but a little lower, and a rear sway bar to improve turn in response(oversteer), a couple adjustable endlinks(no clunking)...

All in all, little better than stock straight line speeds(lightweight rims and intake) but much improved cornering speed...next on the list is mazdaspeed brakes...

[Rainman]

i'm looking at these:



17X7.5 with 225/45/17

[noshownogo]

those rims look clean

[FullStop]

thas a nice rim...will look great on the mz3...

[Rainman]

Rim plan has to go on the back burner for now. This morning while on my way to work i heard a knock coming from the rear. Went to get it checked out, turns out that my rear cradle, front cradle and rear links were all busted, i forgot to take pics. I changed everything, total bill with labour and re-alignment ........$4800


I don't mind though, this is the most that ive spent on this car in the last three years that i've owned it. I will replace rims in June (after i pay insurance in May) just need to find a dealer for ROTA locally ( feel free to chime in)

[noshownogo]

if yuh doh mind me asking, where you get all that replaced in one shot?

[Rainman]

if yuh doh mind me asking, where you get all that replaced in one shot?

Why yuh so fass??




No i don't mind. I got the parts at Federal's on Cipero Street

They had all the original parts cheaper than the firm (i confirmed the part numbers)
they installed and realigned. Took me about an hour total.

[FullStop]

damn, i doin over 100000kms and never had cradle bushing trouble, i bought the awr endlinks, will either install them tomorrow or saturday with the swaybar, the front right making a noise, but i figured it out, is the front right strut mount bearing, when i installing the springs, will fix that...for original parts, and getting it all done in one shot, not a bad price na, worth it to not have any hassle imo...

[dredman1]

if yuh doh mind me asking, where you get all that replaced in one shot?

No i don't mind. I got the parts at Federal's on Cipero Street

They had all the original parts cheaper than the firm (i confirmed the part numbers)
they installed and realigned. Took me about an hour total.

That's tough having to shell that amount of $$ off just when you were looking to get those rims. But better to have the car in top mechanical condition than to look good.

Couple more question if you don't mind (yes I fass and outta place too )
- Were the parts you got at federal all OEM Mazda parts?
- You said you replaced the front cradle - is this the bushing alone or the entire cradle arm? From what I read Mazda doesn't sell the cradle bushing alone. You have to replace the entire arm unless you get an aftermarket cradle bushing and press out the old bushing.
- You mind splitting out the $4800 into labour and parts costs? Want to see what federal's labour cost is like, since I have the front swaybar bushings and end links at home waiting to install. I just have to find somewhere decent to do it.

[Rainman]

if yuh doh mind me asking, where you get all that replaced in one shot?

No i don't mind. I got the parts at Federal's on Cipero Street

They had all the original parts cheaper than the firm (i confirmed the part numbers)
they installed and realigned. Took me about an hour total.

That's tough having to shell that amount of $$ off just when you were looking to get those rims. But better to have the car in top mechanical condition than to look good. Agreed - i dont care much for looks, my car is bone stock, even the tyre pressure is within spec

Couple more question if you don't mind (yes I fass and outta place too )
- Were the parts you got at federal all OEM Mazda parts? All had OEM part numbers and came is original packaging, so as far as i know yep...i crossed referenced them with the part numbers i got from a buddy at souther sales

- You said you replaced the front cradle - is this the bushing alone or the entire cradle arm? From what I read Mazda doesn't sell the cradle bushing alone. You have to replace the entire arm unless you get an aftermarket cradle bushing and press out the old bushing. Had to buy the entire arm left and right

- You mind splitting out the $4800 into labour and parts costs? Want to see what federal's labour cost is like, since I have the front swaybar bushings and end links at home waiting to install. I just have to find somewhere decent to do it.

Front Right Cradle - $1500 (1600@SS)
Front Left Cradle - $1500 (1600@SS)
Rear Link Right - 650 (750@SS)
Rear Link Left - 650 (750@SS)
Labour - 400
Align and camber - 80


Total: $4780.00

[dredman1]

^^^ Thank you kind sir - much appreciated!!!

I dunno about you guys, but $400 to remove the front cradle arms and install new ones, as well as swapping out both rear end links all within an hour without waiting seems a very decent price - unless you got a discount on labour for actually buying the parts from them.

Did you have to make an appointment with them, or you just showed up unannounced and they handled you one time?

Once you can vouch for the quality of their work, I will seriously consider installing my sway bar bushings and front links there.