Tryin a ting wit the BJ

[Strugglerzinc]

This is all that's listed in the power cable app chart. Not seeing anything for an FS or even a 2.0 engine. Do you know if any of the american fords used a FS engine? Got it through Amazon from here http://www.oxygensensor.net/ngk_wires.php.



These are the ranges the FSM lists. My #3 was approaching the upper limit anyway at 5.46k.

[FullStop]

the ford probe used the FS as well, that oxygen sensor site has it, i checked that site but was a bit skeptical cus of how it looked.

[Strugglerzinc]

Found another power cable app listing

Yours should be the 29Z

[Groovemaster]

Not to change the topic but can our control arm ball joint be replaced (pressed in/out), instead of dumping the complete arm when the ball joint goes bad!!!

[FullStop]

thanks Strugglerz, and No Groovemaster, it cant be replaced.

[Strugglerzinc]

You sure dude?

I remember pricing the ball joint by itself already but never had cause to change mine.

The BH control arm is similar with a press in/out ball joint.

[FullStop]

it cant be pressed in and out, there was a guy in the US trying to fabricate serviceable control arms tho, I dont think he went through with it.The stock BJ one cannot be changed out though, i figure though with a torch, a good hand and some replaceable balljoints it could be jimmied.

I wonder how similar the BH control arm is?

[Strugglerzinc]

NGK Power Cables. 0.9k Ohm/metre

Was getting some leakage with the OE so i upgraded one time.

Standard NGKs are $265 at Reputable in Couva if anyone needs.

These cost 60US.

Lucky for me, customs did not charge any duty or vat so just ended up paying 1lb freight to get it in the country

Realistically I expect little to no improvement but hey...they look cool and i can say i have fancy JDM wires.

Cleaned up the boots on the coil packs one time. Had a setta white gunk in there like what you see when battery terminals corrode.



Here's the resistance of the stock wire, 5.46k Ohm



This is the Power Cable 0.26k Ohm

2 months later and i can report improvement in the 4500+ RPM range.

RPM builds faster after this point ie. gets to 165+ faster than with the old wires.

No dyno or anything like that, it just "feels faster"

[FullStop]

makes sense the higher the rpm the more sparks needed, more cycles, more revolutions. real good review man.

[mazdamig]

Strugglerzinc BH control arm is different to a BJ. BH balljoint have to bolts holding it in which easy to change no pressing

I using them NGK wires for some years now.

[FullStop]

I see it didn't make a difference for u mig? hoss I jus joking eh, lol

[mazdamig]

Dont worry ghostbusters that Slow 20 cutass book.hoss I jus joking eh

[libra]

ah yes more fight ..... ghost vs mig .. nex mazda lime


this wat i got with the stock ngk .... been in use a couple months now

[FullStop]

no scene mig, i gettin lix from primera and sunny and thing so is no scene...

[nareshseep]

Well guys, I could'nt wait to put on the sway bar, so it went on this evening!
Anyone can do this,its very simple, note an allen key is very necessary if using back your old linkages. Started 5pm finished 8pm. Those led headlights are very useful in situations like these, All you need to remove is 2 17 bolt on linkages and 4 14 bolt that hold the sway to the sub frame with the bushings. And thats it. Carried it for a test run and I must say its a bit scary, will have to take it easy on rainy days, cause body roll has been reduced dramatically, and because of that you may want to push the car a lot more on corners. The hatch now corners like a sedan! Woi. Next upgrade better tyres.


Progress 22mm rear sway vs stock (17mm?) rear sway on the P5,

[FullStop]

told u it a bit scary, trust me, u cornering much better than a sedan now, consider kumho ecsta spt if you can find them(laughlin says they dont sell them anymore) and if u have negative camber check out the nitto neo gen, they specifically made for cars with negative camber they dont cut away on the inside(also AA traction).good stuff man. you feel the weight difference i was telling you about?

[mazdamig]

nareshseep where u buy the sway bar

[nareshseep]

@Ghostbusters the stock feels like crap , weight wise compared to the progress, will look out for the kumho ecsta spt.

@mig I got the link up from Ghostune...lol.

[Strugglerzinc]

Collected a pair of sway bar links today. Nothing fancy, just OE replacements.

The locally available ones not lasting more than 2 months with me and SS always have a story or excuse if they even attend to you.

These cost $23 US each and shipping to TT was $110 TT as customs charged no duty

Total cost - $404 TT for both. I will see the longevity in 2-4 months.

[FullStop]

federal mogul products are normally very good, but i never really liked the look of the endlinks, looking forward to the review...

[Groovemaster]

That price not bad at all. I bought rear endlinks from ramasirs for about $600...Don't know the brand......But have them on about over 4 months now & still going strong.

[Strugglerzinc]

If these fail the same way them i'm going to build my own with heim joints.

[FullStop]

i bought 4 heim joints online to make some custom links but the quality not feeling sufficient imo, will look into it when i have more time...

[nareshseep]

Ok guys was painting the calipers yesterday when I noticed the right side of the sway bar touching my muffler, went to investigate this evening and left side sway bar clamp broke off, damn 22mm progress, I guess was either that bussing or the endlinks. Be forewarned. So I in the market for some reinforced clamps.

[nareshseep]

That price not bad at all. I bought rear endlinks from ramasirs for about $600...Don't know the brand......But have them on about over 4 months now & still going strong.

You wouldnt believe this but I have endlinks going on 1 year, normally I get my stuff from Jurawans, japan linkages

[Strugglerzinc]

Changed out the sway bar bushings at the same time, $10 each RBI.

All front noise stopped after 2 separate alignment people insisting that my ball joints bad and causing all the knocking.

Dunno why some person at mazda look to put those bushings there. Take 15 min to remove ONE bolt 1/8 turn at a time.

Mebbie there was an easier way?

[Strugglerzinc]

That price not bad at all. I bought rear endlinks from ramasirs for about $600...Don't know the brand......But have them on about over 4 months now & still going strong.

You wouldnt believe this but I have endlinks going on 1 year, normally I get my stuff from Jurawans, japan linkages

Did you ever call a parts place and ask what brand and they tell you "Japanese"?

Me: Japanese yeah but what brand name?
Them: Is ah Japanese link not the chinee one.
Me: *sigh* Thanks

[nareshseep]

hmm ponders what I have now... is it really japanese...but it lasting..lol

Strugglerzinc where do you get those RBI bushing? are they available in 22mm?

[Groovemaster]

^^^ Yeah Bro some more info on the RBI bushings for the swaybar!!! I guess they're really soft ($10)
RBI good for nissan's, mazda ppl need polyurethane. A good mechanic recommended RBI cradle bushings, he said they last long on B14 & 15. I guess $20 not bad for a try but I hear the bolts on the front sway bar is a pain to remove!

[Strugglerzinc]

Got the RBI for the stock sway bar at Reputable in Couva.

Chase Village Auto (Billy's) actually gave me the incorrect bushings, 24mm RBI @ $8 each.

Would have gone Poly if i was sure the bushings were the issue. Decided to start with the cheapest part to replace before moving on to the ball joints/control arm. Fortunately for my pocket, that was the issue solved for $20.

Will get the poly from the PS on the forum and YES Groove, the bolts are a pain and a half to remove.

Wish i had ratcheting spanners at the time.

Also, if you've ever changed the rear engine mount, the 3 bolts are a major PITA as they are almost below the firewall. Actually had to visit a mechanic padnah to open the bolts, they were so tough.