Mazda BJ 323 F Starting problems

[phreakazoid]

I changed just the cam sensor and so far so good.. I will give updates accordingly

[akeba11]

well fellas, i am experiencing the same problems as listed above. I changed the air flow sensor, cam sensor AND crank sensors. I changed the oil and oil filters. And I am still having the same problems. My car shut down in the middle of morvant junction!!! Please help...

[roonie]

aye ppl im new here
big up to all the mazda men and chiks
i having the SAME EXACT PROBLEMS
intermoittent stops and shut downs in traffic
no idea wat problem is
changed evry ting availble to man
cam semsor crank sensor
throttle sensor
fixed a/c
was tinking of chaingin fuel rail
also chaged fuel pump
all fuel lines clear
injectors cleaned
sparkks in order
scan done no messge form ecu
its a bj model 1600 engine zm engine
its a zm 12 brain
i conclude the brain bad look for abt foreva in bamboo for a brain and no ne have zm 12 evry one have zl and zm 16
my question is can zm16 work in place of a zm 12
its def the brain gving probs
the car is mazda 323 abt a 1998-1999 model 1600cc zm engine auto bj model, local from southern
boi southern sales are killers they want $14k for a brian...and man in babboo want bout 500-700 for a zl brain but i need a zmso i still stuck


alluh fellas need to try ad reproduce the problem and do a scan then ...that might help uh out if uh havent done that already
cuz if u have wat i have the brain dead... at least tat wat i am concluding now un fortunately

help me out fellas plz its the only car i got so i cant drive her
one more question we have a 'check engine light' ( cel) i not seeing on on the dash
thanks

[Groovemaster]

U guys get through?

[Morpheus]

Wheyyy. Have the same problem you guys describing(sis car). 2002 Familia Hatch.

Car had been at the straightners for a while and when back on the road, bucking and cutting off. Try to restart and it will either not start at all or start, miss a lil and cut off again. No enging check light eh.

When left for a while(5 to 10 mins) it will start back normal. I have to look into your guy's suggestions and take it from there.

Good Info fellas

[Groovemaster]

For the fellas who not getting through after changing the crank sensor.....U must use a feeler gauge & have a gap no bigger than 20 thou.
Fuel pressure should be checked & change the fuel pump & filter if necessary.^^Morpheus your sis car park up long.... u should check this!!!
Coil packs / plugs ...
MAF.....
Injectors...
& lastly Brain box

What about the TPS guys?????

[Morpheus]

^^Thanks for the tip.

These items were changed before hitting the road again actiually. I decided to take in front. But like I needed to go further:

*Oil and filter
*Air filter
*Spark plugs
*Bought a gas filter to change but the lines weren't fitting back on the new one....so this is still to be done.

To do based on this threas. Inspect MAF sensor. Actually started to take it down bout 9pm but rain started to drizzle I can see that the IAT(Intake Ait Temperature sensor) is dirty on one side. It's the lil bulb looking part in the pic.

Have to get a tin of CRC Contact Cleaner or CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner(Might be harder to get) and CAREFULLY spray the MAF.

Other than that, I will get the injectors cleaned as well.

EDIT: Oh and throttle body cleaning too

But my immediate objective is to at least get the car started....................and move it from in front the neighbour house!!

NOTE: Photo borrowed from here http://forum.mazda6club.com/engine-driv ... aning.html. From a Mazda 6. Looks exactly like the one on sis car actually.

[Morpheus]

UPDATE:
*Got the MAF out. Sprayed the IAT sensor and the MAF. Both were dirty.
*Used Carb spray to clean as much of the throttlebody as possible while on car. Method used>spray on cloth and wipe housing and throttle plate. Black!!.....Plenty Black!!!
*Removed and wiped cam sensor with carb spray dampened cloth.Was not particularly dirty.
*Injector #4 harness was slack. Removed broked bit of plastic and click into place properly. (This may have been left like this during previous checks).

Started car. Car started in a one and idled for a while then cut off Restarted and it kept cutting off. About the 5th time I realised once I kept my foot on the gas and kept the RPM at around 950-1000RPM it didn't cut off.

Anyway this was enough to get the car back into the garage(neighbour must have been happy.LoL)
Back in the garage the idle screw was adjusted to get the RPM to around 750-800. Left car idling for about 10mins. Switched off that's it for the day.
NOTE: Idle screw was adjusted by a "mango tree mechanic" a couple days before when it cut off while on the road.

Tomorrow: Buy a 12mm socket so that the throttle body can be removed and cleaned properly. Clean injectors. Change gas filter.

NOTE: I have the workshop manual (soft copy) for this vehicle and have been referring to it. Helps a lot

[Groovemaster]

Your TB probably real dirty.....IAC should be cleaned too. You should try another TB if u clean it & same prob. Don't play up with the idle screw, that lil screw does fack up your idle speed , gas consumption, give u grey hair, empty your wallet...etc!

[red bwoy]

best adice on the Tb is to remove it and clean it properly i was accustomed to cleaning it on the car using wynns tb cleaner and one time decided to take it off and clean it it had a lot of gunk blocking up the idle port on the tb you wont get tht out on the car the tb has to come out



and on another note never ever ever ever let anyone unless they using a Launch or similar OBDII scanner adjust tht idle screw tht is set at the factory and only specially trained mechs supposed to interfere with tht

[Morpheus]

^^Yeah the man tun up de ting just so oui

Anyway, say I would give car a run to go to work today. Left Arouca just after 1pm-no problem. Red light by Kay-Donna. Got the green light and just after driving off, bucking, pulled to the shoulder one time. By that time the car cut off. That was 1:45pm. Tumbling but not starting.

Got it started around 3:55pm and went to work(3 mins away). Started on about the 3rd try after work (10pm)and drove all the way home(Cool air).

Anyhoo spoke to 2 co-worker while at work that also have the same type of car and both had similar problems. One replaced both the cam and crank sensors and one changed just the cam sensor. No problems after.

I may change both for piece of mind. I eh want sis shutting down anywhere

[mety57]

will ppl just want to say i got my car fixed and it turned out to be a dead brain box mainly and one of the connection points on the cam sensor was damaged but the electrician sort if out am just goin by what he told me but it sounds plausible because its related to what i did after all i killed the car
thanks for yall help

i think you saved me a lot of trouble there man with this info
a guy came in with the same problem and everything i did lead me back
to the ecu not even the fuel pump is running
thanks

yeah same thing here no current from plugs and no fuel pump running did u change the brain box btw whats the price

[Morpheus]

BTW it seemes like the crank sensor is defective. I am not getting a resistance reading according to the workshop manual.

The cam sensor is ok at approx 0.95kOhms.

Will update when I get the sensor and install.

[mety57]

will ppl just want to say i got my car fixed and it turned out to be a dead brain box mainly and one of the connection points on the cam sensor was damaged but the electrician sort if out am just goin by what he told me but it sounds plausible because its related to what i did after all i killed the car
thanks for yall help

i think the mechanic pull a fast 1 on yuh i had the same problem and it was a 30a fuse in the engine bay that was blown but if u jus look at it it looks good but u have to test it with a meter and the cam sensor wire had a cut so i feel that is what cause the fuse to blow