The Mazda 3 thread

[konartis]

i was getting a knocking from the rear and i changed the end links, but i am still getting it, seems like a rattle type knock when i go over bumpy surface....anyone have any ideas? i changed the end links....it didnt stopp

[xNeXuSx]

i was getting a knocking from the rear and i changed the end links, but i am still getting it, seems like a rattle type knock when i go over bumpy surface....anyone have any ideas? i changed the end links....it didnt stopp

Alot of people have this problem. You see it on forums everywhere. If it's not a major part (linkage, strut, swaybar etc), it's usually caused by one of the following...

1. The rear shock cover. If the rear shock bump stop is worn, the plastic shield that is supposed to be covering it becomes loose and rattles against the shock body. Shake it by hand to test. This was the problem with mine, but I didn't realize it until I switched out my stock suspension.

2. Rear brake pads. A small metal spring on the rear brake pads get worn or goes missing. Drive over bumps so you hear the noise and drive over them again with the handbrake sightly pulled to test. If you notice you never hear the noise while braking, then that's it.

3. Car jack compartment or spare tire compartment. The jack could be loose or something is moving around in the spare well or tool tray above it.

Hope this helps.

[konartis]

i was getting a knocking from the rear and i changed the end links, but i am still getting it, seems like a rattle type knock when i go over bumpy surface....anyone have any ideas? i changed the end links....it didnt stopp

Alot of people have this problem. You see it on forums everywhere. If it's not a major part (linkage, strut, swaybar etc), it's usually caused by one of the following...

1. The rear shock cover. If the rear shock bump stop is worn, the plastic shield that is supposed to be covering it becomes loose and rattles against the shock body. Shake it by hand to test. This was the problem with mine, but I didn't realize it until I switched out my stock suspension.

2. Rear brake pads. A small metal spring on the rear brake pads get worn or goes missing. Drive over bumps so you hear the noise and drive over them again with the handbrake sightly pulled to test. If you notice you never hear the noise while braking, then that's it.

3. Car jack compartment or spare tire compartment. The jack could be loose or something is moving around in the spare well or tool tray above it.

Hope this helps.

i would try, and i have been reading the forums online and yes...alot of MZD3 owners have the knocking....but this isnt a random shaking knock it feels like as soon as i go over a bumpy surface, i get the knock and its feeling like it is knocking on two iron parts and it kinda vibrates on each other...will have to dig deeper for this mystery knock after 7 years...lol

[Animal Pak]

does anyone know the front and rear sway bar bushing sizes?

i'm seeing on amazon a 21mm front & 19mm rear kit and a 14mm rear kit.

not sure which rear kit i need

[speedist]

I've read through this entire thread and foreign threads just to get an idea and feel of the vehicle. I'm wondering you guys think it's a good idea to buy a PB series mazda 3 with, let's say, 100,000k mileage or lower? Or am I asking for trouble?

[snight01]

It's drives very good when the right parts are replaced with superior parts. Such as the shocks if its kyb gr 2 or the oil if its either 5w 40 or 10w 30... Shell or Mobil 1. I don't recommend royal purple.

Gotta be oem if its brakes, engine mounts, shock mounts and rubbers and blah blah. It's a really good once you take care of it and don't put poor aftermarket junk u usually find in trini.

Also when it recommend the tire size for 16 and 17, stick to it. Also don't put super full, even tho the mazda 3 2012 recommends it, I always mix 50/50. Running good.

The mileage is ok but I recommend you test drive it and ask what have been changed. Such as the cabin filter, so no one can fool you and say your ac isn't working lol..

[konartis]

I've read through this entire thread and foreign threads just to get an idea and feel of the vehicle. I'm wondering you guys think it's a good idea to buy a PB series mazda 3 with, let's say, 100,000k mileage or lower? Or am I asking for trouble?

im sure you wudnt have any problems, just a random knock that i am getting...lol, most mzda3 have them i think...other than that, its a really good car

[King Kool]

We have a/c cabin air filters & evaporators in stock for Mazda 3

[marlon333]

I started my car this morning and the check engine light is on. I did a scan and it is the oxygen sensor at the front (pre-cat). I use premium gas and service the car regularly so not sure why it failed. Then again I am really not too sure if I was actually getting "good" premium gas. Has anyone purchased this original sensor online before? If so can you send me the link, SS is last resort but I don't really want to fall victim to scam.

[konartis]

i was getting a knocking from the rear and i changed the end links, but i am still getting it, seems like a rattle type knock when i go over bumpy surface....anyone have any ideas? i changed the end links....it didnt stopp

Alot of people have this problem. You see it on forums everywhere. If it's not a major part (linkage, strut, swaybar etc), it's usually caused by one of the following...

1. The rear shock cover. If the rear shock bump stop is worn, the plastic shield that is supposed to be covering it becomes loose and rattles against the shock body. Shake it by hand to test. This was the problem with mine, but I didn't realize it until I switched out my stock suspension.

2. Rear brake pads. A small metal spring on the rear brake pads get worn or goes missing. Drive over bumps so you hear the noise and drive over them again with the handbrake sightly pulled to test. If you notice you never hear the noise while braking, then that's it.

3. Car jack compartment or spare tire compartment. The jack could be loose or something is moving around in the spare well or tool tray above it.

Hope this helps.

i would try, and i have been reading the forums online and yes...alot of MZD3 owners have the knocking....but this isnt a random shaking knock it feels like as soon as i go over a bumpy surface, i get the knock and its feeling like it is knocking on two iron parts and it kinda vibrates on each other...will have to dig deeper for this mystery knock after 7 years...lol

finally got the knock straightened out, it was the front stabilizer link, changed it out and the knock is gone (cost for link $358. at Southern sales)

[dredman1]

Nice! Fixing that noise was one of the most rewarding fixes on my 3. It's annoying and worrying at the same time.
Good to see to SS at least drop the price for the link (was 395 when I bought it a couple years ago), but still kinda crazy when it costs US$30.

[FullStop]

the oem link is USD30? thats great, the oem link's quality is very very good imo.

[dredman1]

Yea I got mines for US$30 each (original Mazda parts) from on online Mazda parts dealer when I travelled a couple years ago. Bought it back in my luggage so no duties/vat
When I came back I checked SS price to compare and it was $395 each :/

[konartis]

Nice! Fixing that noise was one of the most rewarding fixes on my 3. It's annoying and worrying at the same time.
Good to see to SS at least drop the price for the link (was 395 when I bought it a couple years ago), but still kinda crazy when it costs US$30.

yea boi! sheesh!!! i could start back to coast about the smooth and comfortable ride mazda3 has..lol

[speedist]

Folks, I looking for a boss mazda 3 mechanic to go with me to inspect. Preferably, name,location and number please.Want to set up a meet this weekend. Two choices: A '05 m3 with 85k mileage costing 80k neg and a red '06 m3 with 72k mileage but Oxygen sensor have to change costing 80k neg as well(owner willing to subtract firm cost of sensor from cost).

[dredman1]

Newer year and less milage is usually always better. O2 sensor is no biggie to change. If he reimbursing you the cost of a new sensor, I'd go with the newer, lower milage car (once the sensor is the only issue with the red one).
Of condition of body and interior I assuming good on both.

[konartis]

Folks, I looking for a boss mazda 3 mechanic to go with me to inspect. Preferably, name,location and number please.Want to set up a meet this weekend. Two choices: A '05 m3 with 85k mileage costing 80k neg and a red '06 m3 with 72k mileage but Oxygen sensor have to change costing 80k neg as well(owner willing to subtract firm cost of sensor from cost).

carry a mazda 3 owner...like rainman....lol, a long time owner knws the car better than a mechanic who might not knw, but advice is that to check the transmission, make sure its changing smooth, get on a lvl road and press out from zero and mash the X hard and let the car accelerate, each gears should change as it reves up to about 3k RPM or more, shows that it is changing well, cause normal driving the gears change up fast to #4 ....another thing...put on park, remain on idle...then change to reverse....dont press the gas....it shud go back smooth....if it stutters, the oil might need changing, carry over a pit and check the front/back stabilizer links...and the air conditioner control make sure its not shorting when u change speeds, there is a problem with the 2005 control, where the green light flickers...check that make sure its solid on all numbers 1-4 etc....these are just the things ive seen so far that gives problems, minor stuff

[speedist]

lol. Actually that is what I wanted to do, if one of you guys don't mind coming along to inspect.

@dredman: Yeah, should be a no brainer for me to take the lower mileage one I'm just fussy on the looks. The red one kinda ricey(chrome door handles, gas cap, crims) while the grey one kind of resembles a shark(really like the aggressive look of it).

@konartis: I have to admit, me being a first time potential m3 owner(fingers crossed), everything you describe fly right over my head. I think is best you come along and check the red one with me cuz you know what to look for. lol.
Last car I had was 2.0 lantis, the electrical and functionality on the m3's far more complicated than that.

[dredman1]

@dredman: Yeah, should be a no brainer for me to take the lower mileage one I'm just fussy on the looks. The red one kinda ricey(chrome door handles, gas cap, crims) while the grey one kind of resembles a shark(really like the aggressive look of it).

Oh ok - well looks are an important factor as well. If you spending $$ you should at least like the look of what you driving in. In any event, both milages are decent given their ages, so once the grey one in good condition, I wouldn't rule it out, given the red one bling out.

On a side note though, if the owner of the red could let the O2 sensor could go bad and instead of fixing it he ricing out the car, that's a red flag right there. What else on the car he probably ignore in the name of bling? May not be a valid argument though as the sensor could have only recently gone bad after blinging it out, but if he willing to pay for the new one, why he didn't change it before?? Anyway, lemme not throw sand in another man, um, rice...

Just check them out carefully.

[speedist]

Yeah, I was thinking this myself but according to him it only recently went bad, he also stated his mechanic told him it would still drive normal without it. I hate when people say that, especially when their job is to fix it! I'd read something about the catalytic converter being damaged or maybe the computer? His reason for selling is to get funds toward building a house.

As for the grey, I like the kit but I see there is some surface damage on the left side of the front bumper, looks like he traded paint with something, no visible cracks or dents to the bumper, just big scrapes. Other than that no issues, he recently changed the disc pads as well.

I'd really like for one of you guys to come along, especially if anyone of you owns a diagnostic machine. This is driving me nuts(no pun intended).

[xNeXuSx]

Where will you be going to view the cars? Owners home, or they meeting you somewhere?


Sent from my iPhone using TriniTuner mobile app

[speedist]

Both are from San'do i think was planning on meeting each one at grand bazaar once they sort their business.

[konartis]

you buying this cash or going tru a financial institute?

[speedist]

Had planned to buy it by cheque once everything up to mark. Is there anything else I should look out for?

[snight01]

lol. Actually that is what I wanted to do, if one of you guys don't mind coming along to inspect.

@dredman: Yeah, should be a no brainer for me to take the lower mileage one I'm just fussy on the looks. The red one kinda ricey(chrome door handles, gas cap, crims) while the grey one kind of resembles a shark(really like the aggressive look of it).

@konartis: I have to admit, me being a first time potential m3 owner(fingers crossed), everything you describe fly right over my head. I think is best you come along and check the red one with me cuz you know what to look for. lol.
Last car I had was 2.0 lantis, the electrical and functionality on the m3's far more complicated than that.

You would know any problem by sight and noise. Check color of fluids and state of suspension

Firstly put premium in the car to see how we'll the car performs, how stiff or slack the steering wheel, the performance of the transmission, any malfunction on the dash, smell the ac for any clog or lack of power, tire pressure size before driving to test, any noise from shocks or cradle arms, inspect cradle bushing, ball joints, end links, engine mount behavior when engine is started and on idle, vibration on steering wheel from engine mount, gas consumption monitoring, door handle locks and hinges for lubrication, check if air filter is cleaned to determine engine quality, start car and pay attention to throttle body to see if dirty but you may need to remove to check, check battery and brake performance with checking the disk pads

[snight01]

Quality of tires is also important. Greed is a beyotch in this country but the low balers are worse.

Checking the shocks and its quality is important. If the shocks feel like you're driving a truck it's shocks being sold in good ole trini such as gas kyb Monroe sheit.


One more thing... Drive to 120 to feel any vibration, noise or anything odd but go to 140 to round it.

[speedist]

Ok, I'll have to write all this down, as for the shocks, it was KYB GR2, correct?

I decided to go for the red one, even though it could use a little less rice. I'll just have to change the look over time. A friend of mine dubbed it iron man mark VII(RED AND SILVER), while the other one resembles war machine's color scheme.

[konartis]

Why I asked if u putting out the money cash, I have a co-worker that can bring a Mazda 3 for u at almost the same price foreign used, very reliable person an everything is done in ur name an u pay ur money to the respective persons urself rather than giving him your money....


Sent from my iPod touch using TriniTuner mobile app

[speedist]

That's a good alternative though, I was planning on going through my bank once everything is ok. I have one other concern though, I was told there is a difference between the local and foreign used models where parts are concerned. What exactly is that? I notice a cosmetic difference too(grill, body kit,etc).

[dredman1]

Most JDM FU coming now with the 1.5L engine, while the local model has the 1.6L. Some FU came with the 1.6, but those were SDM. Don't see much of those 1.6L FU again though.

There are some minor cosmetic differences between all of them, mainly like you say, bumpers/fogs, side skirts, grille. Those with the body kit are usually the 2.0L models or the FU Sport model. TOo many combinations to list definitively.

Interior has some differences as well between different models, with the HVAC being either manual or electronic/automatic.