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my engine developed a knock whats the average price to do a full forged rebuild

pistons, rods, bearings, headstuds & labour..

avg - $12,000

ok the qoutes i got it crossing 23

Tile Expression Ltd. wrote:pistons, rods, bearings, headstuds & labour..

avg - $12,000

You could tell that without even knowing the type of engine? You good brah...

What's the average price for the EJ20 turbo rebuild (2004) WRX black start?

Knock is bad, hope the block case does not get damaged.

Assuming you have a good EJ205 case and want to go with a full build:
Crankshaft - 4k, more for nitride crank
Pistons - 4-5K
Conrods - 3K
Block and Headstuds - 2K?
Head gaskets - 1K
Main/rod bearings - 1K
oil pump - 1.5K

Or look into the factory assembled STI shortblock if your case is damaged (18-20K complete). I think a new empty case/block halves are about 8K

Labour is dependent on mechanic and the amount of work involved. Machine shop costs etc

That not bad at all.
Superman what oil were you using?

i did a build abt 4years ago came up to abt 10k. However i also have a stock jdm motor running with 3 years hard abuse without a problem, which cost 10k with ecu & harness..depending on ur power goals a head & block would def. be cheaper but as always ur taking a gamble with a foreign used engine..

If you pulling the engine, rebuilding and reinstalling, the average labour price (excluding any machining) should be about 5500 or so.

Vexx is more or less accurate on the parts list and prices (May also need a master gasket kit). You should be able to save a few more hundred by shopping around or bringing in your own parts.

I also agree with kid, the direction of your rebuild should be done only after an honest evaluation of your current and future power needs.

There are some guys at the side of Grand Bazzar with Subaru engines, just after Christmas they had a twin turbo legacy engine with ecu and harness for 9000. That's probably gone buy now. But the popular guys in the bamboo have EJ205 Head and block (Singapore) for 15K.
Anyone knows the price of the 2004 WRX steering rack?

A Singapore 205 from a Wrx will most likely be non avcs. Someone can verify.

Even if I buy a foreign used block I still won't feel comfortable installing it without verifying the condition of the internals (bearing, rings etc) and at least replacing the bearings while I'm at it.

If the engine is out, you might as well make sure that you're putting in something that will be in for the long haul.

Good advise Lance sounds like you have been through it all. So the best thing to do is tear down his and access the block, once its good build it back?

make sure you select a proper machine shop and have torque plate when doing the machining.

check and re-check with dial gauge each of the piston walls @ the machine shop before leaving...

would def go with a new crank if doing a re-build...

Grudge wrote:Good advise Lance sounds like you have been through it all. So the best thing to do is tear down his and access the block, once its good build it back?

That's exactly what I would do.

Once the head and block are separated, it's not difficult to split the case halves and take a look (before doing anything). If the knock isn't bad, the crank might not have been scored and the cylinder walls should be in good condition (probably just needn't light hone).

I would however check clearances on everything before rebuilding the existing block (or ordering any parts for that matter). Make sure that everything is within tolerance to accept the new internals.

I would also be a little cautious about polishing and reusing the old crank (if damaged) or reboring the cylinder walls for larger pistons (if the walls have been damaged). As far as I know, no local machine shop uses a torque plate. In addition, My mechanic has a lot of blocks that he refuses to reuse (they came back coned straight from the machine shops!- some come back good others not so much, so if you have to, you might be lucky).

Good luck with the rebuild!

16 cycles wrote:make sure you select a proper machine shop and have torque plate when doing the machining.

check and re-check with dial gauge each of the piston walls @ the machine shop before leaving...

would def go with a new crank if doing a re-build...

Lol, didn't even see this post before I replied

i getting the knock on start up as oil pressure build its gone so i carried it in one time

That's exactly how I had mine when I bought the car. Turned out that one of my crank journals was already damaged.

I actually bought the car with it, the guy always made sure the car was properly warmed up whenever I came to check it out. Never picked up on it until after.

Are you 100% certain it's damage? A bad timing belt tensioner had been known to make a similar noise on startup.

which machine shop would you all recommend i am planning on a full rebuild going fully forged using 12mm oil pump new water pump everything my engine is a ej20t. was considering buying a foreign used head and block but a bit hesitant

I think you should check all clerances as stated earlier before ordering parts....

my car is currently by barry and he is checking it out i left the car overnight by him and he started it in the morning and heard it and he suspects its a that. he will futher investigate and when we are sure
i will decide how to proceed i plan on keeping the car and eventually putting it on the track because of the amount of money already spent on it i will never be able to get it back i prefer to make it an all out race car rather than sell it. so i want to build an engine that can take approximately 500hp comfortable thats my goal

if its by barry, take some advice and listen to him. i had a discussion with him when i got mine and he explained to be a lot of mistakes local mechanics make especially with subaru built engines. let him check the proper clearances and give you the correct parts to order. you're in good hands....

thats the plan i was telling him of the long terms goals to put it on the track and i was telling him of my hp goals and he said we will build the engine to suit so when i decide to upgrade turbo and all that we would not have to do anything additional to the engine

for the guys who did rebuilds in the past what machine shop did you all use

Until you split the block, you do not even know if you would need a machine shop.

If the walls are good then Barry might recommend oem size pistons. If you doing headwork then that's another matter.

Also, if you are looking at 500hp in the long run, I would seriously think twice about using an open deck ej205 as your platform. However, your mechanic will direct you on the best way forward given your goals.

Look at the cost of the rebuild vs the cost of the brand new shortblock.


In my case the EJ257 shortblock was slightly more expensive, but ROCK solid and can take your 500HP. Still regret selling her, but priorities changed for now.

Sorry to hijack the thread but what leads to a knock like this?
What can I do to prevent it other than religiously changing fluids and filters?
This dude goes by Barry so I assume he was doing that anyway.

the car only started to be repaired by barry after i bought it before it was serviced by another popular subaru meahanic when the previous owner had it and alot of things was done half ass and we were in the process of repairing it one part at a time the suspension was done brakes upgraded and we were now getting around to the engine and this happened.
i dont mix matters with my fluid change all that was done on time. i have an aggressive driving style so i think is the half ass jobs done before and my driving style may have lead to it

Thats always the risk of a used car...

Im waiting on barry to take mine to install my parts....

Good luck bro!

ok kool u will see mines there parked up

Thanks for the reply, I really really can't afford a rebuild right now which is why I asked. I asked the mechanic who looked after the car since it was brought in from Japan a few days after I bought it if there was anything I should address or look at to keep the car as healthy as possible, I figured this guy has the history of the car so he would know best, his response more or less was nah everything is fine so just come in for a regular service at the next interval. I said are you sure, fluids are fine? filters are fine and he said yes the car was maintained well.

Cut to a week later and due to a badly clogged fuel filter I lost a Walbro pump and by extension a Coil pack.

Sigh

NiSmO-R wrote:Thanks for the reply, I really really can't afford a rebuild right now which is why I asked. I asked the mechanic who looked after the car since it was brought in from Japan a few days after I bought it if there was anything I should address or look at to keep the car as healthy as possible, I figured this guy has the history of the car so he would know best, his response more or less was nah everything is fine so just come in for a regular service at the next interval. I said are you sure, fluids are fine? filters are fine and he said yes the car was maintained well.

Cut to a week later and due to a badly clogged fuel filter I lost a Walbro pump and by extension a Coil pack.

Sigh

Can't blame the mech for that one. Suppose the filter was changed at a previous service and you got some bad gas that fscked the filter?