trinituner.com

Alright fellas (and gals), I under some serious pressure here.

I need an EVO 4 crankshaft like yesterday (well last 3 weeks actually).

No, my crank didn't walk, the journals are badly damaged and wouldn't make sense to machine, ergo I need a crankshaft.

However, for the knowledgeable amongst us, I need some clarification on the applications of Evo crankshafts. I've been told that any crank from 1-9 would work fine, then I was told that 4,5 and 6 alone would work, then I was told only 4 would work cuz of the placement of the thrust bearing i.e. the 4's block has a groove cut into it to accommodate said bearing.

So enlighten me, P-L-E-A-S-E-!-!-!-!

But more than that, find me a crankshaft, P-L-E-A-S-E-!-!-!-!

Yes, desperation has set in.

Thanks in advance.

So wah??!!

Nobody have a suggestion self?

Possibly no one knows exactly how to answer...

I can't say for sure, but I have heard the CT9A cranks can work...

but also that the IV was also an engine that suffered with crankwalk ( not saying yours did mind you) and some improvements engine wise was done from the 5 onwards...

You best bet is you browse the Mitsubishi Lancer Register forums and see. They have inso specific to evos 1- 10 and they may know better if that can be done.


As for where, you should post that in the classifieds section as you may get a better response there.

hey man any cranckshaft from the evo3 to evo8 would work, the evo1 and evo2 would not cause it's 6bolt, from the evo3 and above is 7bolt...call me i have a crank shaft and i have some new ACL bearings...388-4226

Team EVO wrote:hey man any cranckshaft from the evo3 to evo8 would work, the evo1 and evo2 would not cause it's 6bolt, from the evo3 and above is 7bolt...call me i have a crank shaft and i have some new ACL bearings...388-4226

Not all are 6 bolt. Mine is a seven bolt but was not from a conversion.

The evo 1 and early evo 2's were 6 bolt.

they were? swear they were all 7 bolts...considering the time frame in which mitsubishi switched.

Ok confirmed, the Evo 1-4 share the same 7 bolt crankshaft, MD187923 which is superceeded by MD346024

the Only 6 bolt motors stopped production in japan in 1992 on the Galant VR4

scientist wrote:they were? swear they were all 7 bolts...considering the time frame in which mitsubishi switched.

Ok confirmed, the Evo 1-4 share the same 7 bolt crankshaft, MD187923 which is superceeded by MD346024

the Only 6 bolt motors stopped production in japan in 1992 on the Galant VR4

^^this is correct

the Evo 5-9 share the same crank, part # MD357543

Way!!!! 6 responses in a day. I started to get worried, ah wondered if all yuh did abandon meh!! Lol.

Thanks gents for the info, I've officially stopped cutting nails and can relax a little bit.

Oddly enough, I spoke to a Mr. 'Chiller' at Diamond and he informed me that the 4G63 and 4G63T share the same part number, ergo same crankshaft. Can anyone confirm or correct this?

Again, thanks gents for chiming in.

MISHI wrote:As for where, you should post that in the classifieds section as you may get a better response there.

Thanks for the suggestion, but I didn't post there cuz I didn't want a set ah water-down comments and "knowledge" if yuh ketch meh drift.

Team Evo yuh gettin a call early, ah just watch meh clock and see the time, yuh lucky cuz ah did done start dialing.

4G63s share the same cranks throughout, IE the Turbo and Non turbo models

here's what>>>

ALL EVO CRANKSHAFTS ARE THE SAME WHETHER IT BE 6 BOLT/7 BOLT!!!

i'm telling you this based on experience and not heresay or themsay...

your crank would be 7 bolt as stated above only evo 1/2 are of 6 bolt design...

the bearing whether they be thrust washers or one piece (flanged main center bearing) whatever crank you have the bearings would work... however the 3 piece bearings cannot work on blocks that come with the one piece flanged bearing(evo 3/4) ie you cannot use 3 piece bearing on blocks that came with the flanged one piece main center bearing...

i hope this helps... it took me alot of time and research to figure this one out, i hope you benefit because alot of the quacks out there don't know their ass from their elbow...

also on another note, cranks of all 4g63's whether they be turbo or non turbo do carry the same stroke, bearings/journals and ideally they're the same... take this with a pinch of salt because though the are almost identical, there is now way to tell if they are of the same strength (forged/metallurgy)

we have a need for proper crankshaft cleaning and checking for cracks (magnafluxed) and balancing locally... i hope you get through and only replace it with one from an engine that probably hasn't seen alot of abuse... check also to see if your block has been damaged if your center main bearing was worn excessively otherwise you'd be spinning a top in mudd... (literally)

Keep on boosting...

Thanks a million. Very concise and direct information. Why I trust your info is cuz your source is the very valuable experience. I'm on it.

What are your thoughts on machining the slightly damaged crank to a 1 thousandth and using over-sized bearings??

I was made to understand that the treatment of the crank during the creation process that includes a hardening coating/process of some sort and machining the journals would essentially weaken it.

It would have most likely gone through cold rolling which strenghthens the outer shell of the crank. My crank looks like it has been cold rolled.

For the last time, NO evos came with a 6 bolt motor from Factory. Mitsubishi Stopped production of the 6 Bolt motor in 1992 and Revised it with the 7 Bolt.

The 4G6x cranks are Nitrided including the 4G64 cranks. The N/A 4G63 Cranks carry the same part number as the Turbo 4G63 cranks as mitsubishi Opted not! to make a different crank. Even the Non turbo bare blocks are Forged from the same mold except the Turbos get the oil squirters machined in POST casting.

the Non turbo and turbo also share the same rods

scientist wrote:For the last time, NO evos came with a 6 bolt motor from Factory. Mitsubishi Stopped production of the 6 Bolt motor in 1992 and Revised it with the 7 Bolt.

The 4G6x cranks are Nitrided including the 4G64 cranks. The N/A 4G63 Cranks carry the same part number as the Turbo 4G63 cranks as mitsubishi Opted not! to make a different crank. Even the Non turbo bare blocks are Forged from the same mold except the Turbos get the oil squirters machined in POST casting.

the Non turbo and turbo also share the same rods

Doh flick me up!!! And I ketching my arse so to get one??!!!!!

SO who have one???
[Other than TEAM EVO, his needs some machining nah (still grateful though)]

dragmaster wrote:Thanks a million. Very concise and direct information. Why I trust your info is cuz your source is the very valuable experience. I'm on it.

What are your thoughts on machining the slightly damaged crank to a 1 thousandth and using over-sized bearings??

I was made to understand that the treatment of the crank during the creation process that includes a hardening coating/process of some sort and machining the journals would essentially weaken it.

I think you mean ten thou under size (crankshaft turning)...

according to sources cause i would find it better suited to get a std crank, there are a couple evo's locally running over sized bearings...

problem is getting someone to get the clearances right...

i had one done at a local machine shop but the work was unsatisfactory when i used a mic to check the appropriate clearances...

the nitride coating "they" say goes up to 20 thou in the bearing journals... nitriding makes the surface harder and less prone to being damage incase of metal to metal contact (loss of hydrodynamic film). it makes the surface harder for the bearing, does not make the crank stronger.

I've read and been told from a couple American sources that it can be done and work flawlessly if the machine shop gets it right (good luck with that). however they also noted that for high hp use ie 400hp and above nothing but a genuine std crank should be used...

i hope you get through as finding a replacement crank for cheap is like finding a needle in a haystack...

please remember if you do locate one when reassembling the bottom end to DOUBLE check your clearances!!! most aim for the loser side of 1.5-2 thou clearance...

Regards...

Much appreciated advice. I'm not looking to enter that horsepower bracket without some more significant upgrades. I'm glad to hear that the under-sized ten thou cut and bearings will work safely. I am wary of machine shops and their faulty work. I am careful with that.

Thanks again for the good info.

i have a crank in a block rest down sumwhere................
if yuh interested call me na.........the block came foreign used...........
yes .....its a 7bolt.