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Hey

I have been having alot of trouble with my gdi galant. The car seems not to be able to accelerate after it reaches about 120..you could flaw the x and it gears down and accelerates but on gears 3 and 4 acceleration is very slow if at all....

In addtion the car cuts off when it is idling in a gear(rpm goes up and down and then slowly drops and the engine light comes on then it goes back up and the engine light comes off, eventually it cuts off). It ildes fine when in park or neutral...

And as off this morning it started to stutter when pulling off...but only when i pull off slowly...if i mash out it works fine.

I have tried many different mechanics..i change the feul pump ...throttle body and many sensors and still the car refuses to work properly.

Could anyone help!!...please!!

check the brainbox if u done check the fuel pump and the related sensors and the throttle body then the only other thing could be the brain box

actually those are symptoms of the torque convertor

to me it not sounding like a transmission problem i had a similiar problem with a sir at a time and no matter wat i try to do and check alot of tings and mechanics i decided to change the brainbox and you wudnt believe that everyting worked excellent.not sure if thats the case with the galant but i cud be wrong.check the transmission fluid and see ifit change colour or burnt if it is well it cud in fact be the converter

Thanks for the sugesstion guys ...but could you recomend some one or some where i could take the car to get checked out!

Guys

How could i know if its the torque converter...and if that is the problem what cn be done about it...And would this also cause the car to idle badly when in gear and eventually cut off unless u gave it some gas!?

check the transmission fluid wen was the last time u changed it check to see if it dirty or burnt if its burnt then it cud be the converter.i also dont tink the converter will cause the car to cut off that is madness lol sum1 correct me if im wrong

it can had ah partner with ah similar problem changed everything including the TPS and still had the problem

he went to some tranny guy and told him was the torque convertor had it changed and car working good since that

de cam sensor wouldnt cause dat??

^^well he said he checked all the sensors right assumin you put it tru the computer and well if u have to change the converter ur tranny have to come down and scrap but did u check the oil to see if it was burnt.honestly i never saw a car cutting off due to the converter usually the converter strips which causes the car unable to move meaning it cant engage in any gear like its in neutral permanantly but the car idles fine though

well i changes transmission oil about one month ago.....i always used the original mitsubishi oil....and i checked today and it seems fine.......or and i never changed the cam sensor......is that the one to the top of the engine....? cuz i know that there is a cam and a crank sensor....Could a tranny problem really cause the car to cut off when in gear?...

hey....there is a guy named Dillon in Trincity...very good with the diagnostic of these GDI vehicles...call him 689-2664

Ron33 wrote:...not able to accelerate...

...cuts off when idling in a gear (rpm goes up and down and then slowly drops and the engine light comes on then it goes back up and the engine light comes off, eventually it cuts off). It ildes fine when in park or neutral...

...it started to stutter when pulling off...but only when i pull off slowly...if i mash out it works fine.

...i change the fuel pump ...throttle body and many sensors...

Symptoms (in red) are what I suffered a couple years ago with 1.8 GDI in Galant VRG.
Mine also got worse until it couldn't idle at all. Part-throttle was even worse.

First start by changing the fuel filter near the gas-tank, near the right rear tyre.
I used EXPENSIVE OEM filter from Diamond Motors. ...Local substitutes don't last as long. Cheaper OEM filter may be available from Special Auto or P.T. Auto in Petit Bourg.

Have you stripped/cleaned the high-pressure "fuel pump" (fuel regulator) bolted on left side of the cylinder head? I posted the sequence of stripping and cleaning it at least twice.
Do a search, you should find at least one post.

CAUTION: Be careful when removing resin (plastic?) plate that slides onto the "pillars".
First seperate two halves of pump... then use a feeler gauge blade (+/- 0.005-0.010") to GENTLY ease the plate up on each pillar IN TURN...
Use spray like WD40 or similar to help...
Repeat with thicker feeler gauge blades IN TURN until you have enough space for something larger like a flat screwdriver blade...
DO NOT prise too hard... If you break the plate... you are dead!
Follow the rest of the sequence I posted for stripping & cleaning... Worked for me.
No similar problems for nearly three years. Hope it helps.

Ron33 wrote:...could you recomend some one or some where i could take the car to get checked out!

Alex Francis _ Trincity _ Cell 682-6751 / Home 640-8611.

yup, also thinking fuel pressure regulator.........your diagnostic scan should give you a low fuel pressure code if so........

Hi ~˜VëgŲ˜~ how yuh going.

^^^I dey bro........in and out/ off and on.......yuh know the scenes.....btw, galant sold a while now......gone nissan yes......lol

Hey guys...sanctifier in particular......thanks for the advice....i tried it today..i realised that if you take out the rubber seal on the pillar the plastic plate is rather simple to come out no need for feeler gauge .....I couldnt get power foam though...so i jus soaked it in gas and used wd40 and 95% alcohol to clean it out....I have already placed it back up.....it seems to be working better already....i will drive it for a coule of days and see what happens.....thank alot for your advice!

Ronald

No probs. Hope it works well.

Sanctfier

I have one other question do you know what is he constituents of power foam?....i still find that the car kinda iddling low ...so maybe it wasnt cleaned as well as it could be.....I am a phd student at uwi so i have a range of chemicals at my disposal...so if you could tell me what it is i might be able to work up something...Or and did you clean both halves of the pump or just one half with the pillar and plastic plate?

Ronald

^ ^ ^ No idea about chemical composition.

Post details cleaning proceedure that I used. I stripped the entire pump... ALL parts. I cleaned the varnish off everything, soaked overnight... then cleaned again, dried and reassembled.
Pay special attention to the nozzles in their "carrier." The "head" moves on spherical ball.
The metering holes in the nozzle heads are the most important areas to clean.

Leave everything submerged until ready to reassemble.
Avoid leaving parts in open air as surface rust will start almost immediately.

Hey did you sort out this problem ?