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***The official early evo/GSR thread***

Mitsu Lancer, Evo, GSR, MIVEC, 4G**, GDI, Galant, Outlander, L200 Sportero/Triton etc.

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Death-Row
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Postby Death-Row » January 4th, 2010, 12:52 am

btw, about a week or 2 ago, i was foced to use NP 20W50 in my car since i was low on oil and i needed to drive the car and the gas station opened only had that. i currently have castrol 20w50. using that until i get the oil leaks sorted.


about 2 days after i used the NP to top up, i started hearing some clickin noise, sounds like tappets. tappets already used to make noise but now i hearing a lil more. could the NP make it worse and cause more noise?

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Postby *KRONIK* » January 4th, 2010, 8:48 am

Death-Row wrote:about 2 days after i used the NP to top up, i started hearing some clickin noise, sounds like tappets. tappets already used to make noise but now i hearing a lil more. could the NP make it worse and cause more noise?


bess u run a engine flush and use back the castrol and keep a quart extra handy incase.........

doh let them lifters get to u........

is not a nice ting :? :?

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Postby janfar » January 4th, 2010, 6:35 pm

Always try and keep a quart or 2 of you favourite oil in you trunk. Together with a gumsolve (or equivalent), brake fluid, QD contact cleaner.

Would have saved you from all this headache.

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Postby *KRONIK* » January 4th, 2010, 8:29 pm

janfar wrote:Always try and keep a quart or 2 of you favourite oil in you trunk. Together with a gumsolve (or equivalent), brake fluid, QD contact cleaner.

Would have saved you from all this headache.


much agreed

when i had my CK i had the above items in the trunk in a box....never had reason to use any on my car but some padna always needed a help out

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Postby Death-Row » January 11th, 2010, 3:22 pm

turns out that it could be the tensioner or something. pulled the cover again and realise the timeing belt had a tear on it, almost shredded also. car is by the Mech now.


any way on identifying a evo3 gas tank on the ground? getting one but not sure if its a 3 and i dont wanna take down my tank and it isnt the right one.

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Postby MISHI » January 11th, 2010, 7:02 pm

Check and see if a bold hasn't fallen in the timing area...

when I first changed my engine in 9630 (4g93 SOHC) the mech was doing a road test and suddenly we started hearing this strange noise...

when he got back in we smelled something foul and upon checking the timing area, a bolt ... a small 10 bolt loosened from god knows where and fell on the sproket and jammed... i only had 1 strand of belt on each end no more than kite nylon size...

Let you mech make sure ALL the stuff that can be loosened are tight etc... also your pulleys should be checked as well as the sprockets for any deformation or dings... which can also shred belts...

Image
GSR/EVO's have a bisected system (see pic at left) as does the Expo AWD wagon, so I suspect that there is a dual pickup pipe on the pump, otherwise one side of the tank would never get emptied. A standard tank sender unit is slightly right of center and
Note here that the EVO3 tank has the pump on the LHS

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Postby Nik » January 11th, 2010, 11:11 pm

Death-Row, & why (i dare to ask) u lookin 4 a gas tank??? as e1-3 & gsr = same

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Postby janfar » January 13th, 2010, 9:14 am

Woi woi!!!!!!

I aint hearing allyuh I aint seeing allyuh!!!

How the projects going???

Nik, she finish, when we getting pics.

Row... yuh find yuh oil leak?

Like is only 3 CB 4G**T cars in TT???

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Postby Death-Row » January 13th, 2010, 12:02 pm

Nik,my tank was leaking, used plastic weld and it holds at about 100$ in gas :lol:


well, i think i hit a wall now, noise i was hearing wasnt the tappits but the crank pulley, got too bad and damaged the crankshaft :(


something drastic gonna take place tho, either i sell or i park up for a 4 months or so and fix everything to my specs :(

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Postby honda hoe » January 13th, 2010, 1:12 pm

:shock:

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Postby A172 » January 13th, 2010, 1:18 pm

Death-Row wrote:Nik,my tank was leaking, used plastic weld and it holds at about 100$ in gas :lol:


well, i think i hit a wall now, noise i was hearing wasnt the tappits but the crank pulley, got too bad and damaged the crankshaft :(


something drastic gonna take place tho, either i sell or i park up for a 4 months or so and fix everything to my specs :(


wtf :?

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Postby MISHI » January 13th, 2010, 1:49 pm

Saw a tank for sale in the classifieds forum...

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Postby janfar » January 13th, 2010, 2:23 pm

Oh gooodddd. So the only 3 evos in this ched down for the count. Yuh want me ask MISHI to put it in the OLE TALK forum to get some spam and then bring it back...

My shopping list has begun, I have sourced stuff to rebuild my block. Gonna start with that first. Race bearings, Manley H-beams coupled with some Weiseco pistons. Didnt bother to go oversized as the piston surfaces has no damage. Also plastigauged the crank journals and all was within spec on the tight side.

Who have suggestions on gearbox and tcase rebuilds. I would like to have them be able to handle at least 700awhp (dunno how you measure those). May be easier to source a 2G DSM one and have them rebuild it there in the US and ship rather than ship mine to be rebuilt. Still alot of planning.

Any input from you guys will be greatly appreciated.

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Postby southside crew » January 13th, 2010, 11:09 pm

YOUR stock Drivetrain would get your car to single digits ( somewhere in the 9 sec battlefield) in 1/4 mile Drag racing...

If you really wanna upgrade check SHEP RACING... OR LOOK FOR A PPG DRIVETRAIN.... but $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

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Postby W2J » January 13th, 2010, 11:25 pm

^ I am direct with shep :twisted: and its not that expensive, look at the IX he out sparky fire :lol:

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Postby Nik » January 14th, 2010, 2:04 am

Death-Row wrote:Nik,my tank was leaking, used plastic weld and it holds at about 100$ in gas :lol:


well, i think i hit a wall now, noise i was hearing wasnt the tappits but the crank pulley, got too bad and damaged the crankshaft :(


something drastic gonna take place tho, either i sell or i park up for a 4 months or so and fix everything to my specs :(


wtf... remember this is what had happen to my GSR & i ended up changing engine, the only odda option is to take out the engine scrap it down, take d crankshaft to d machine shop, buy new pulleys & put back together.

for me i find dat to be too much to do so i just swapped engines. this might a good opportunity 4 u to go 4G63T :wink:

janfar, she home just waiting 4 my mech to take her & give a final check up... once all is well then i'm back out, would only have a few minor things to do after

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Postby Death-Row » January 14th, 2010, 8:40 am

might have a lil suprise for alyuh fellas :D :twisted:

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Postby janfar » January 14th, 2010, 9:09 am

W2J wrote:^ I am direct with shep :twisted: and its not that expensive, look at the IX fry sparky egg:lol:
:shock: :shock: :shock:


Good stuff here. I will have to check you on that. I believe you will be seeing me very often.

Stock gb and Tcase in 9sec bracket... I would like to see proof of that. Would hate to see i hit third at 7000rpm doing close to 120kph and end up putting down a nice even coat of GB oil on the people new track. I was watching a build on dsmtalk and the guy dumped his clutch from first and literally snapped his t-case completely.

Shep is a well reputed brand and I have read many reviews where their boxes take constant sub 9 second runs over and over again.



Nik... pics hoss, we want pics.

Row, what you have in store for we...hmmmm 4G63 stroker...

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Postby honda hoe » January 14th, 2010, 9:11 am

W2J wrote:^ I am direct with shep :twisted: and its not that expensive, look at the IX he out sparky fire :lol:


:lol: :lol:

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Postby Death-Row » January 14th, 2010, 9:16 am

janfar,not doubting the 9sec with stock GB isnt true, might depend on the launch/driver. ive seen low 10sec with stock gb and stuff with the evo3.

nah, not a stroker but its a 63 lol love meh diamonds :lol:
Last edited by Death-Row on January 15th, 2010, 9:01 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby TRDGUY » January 14th, 2010, 11:16 pm

so guys reading some of the issues you all having with shifter bushings , tappet noise,gbox probs i myslef have sorted out some of these on my 93t GSR, first of all changing the bushings on the shifter only stops the play, still doesnt stop the grating or stiff moments when shifting, i realized that the bushing on top of the gearbox was missing substitute though, im not sure but when i lock my steering from either side while cornering at low speeds i get this (clak clak )sound now its not the cv joints nor any thing related to the suspension i changed nearly everything new,
when i disengage the clutch no (clak clak) noise some say its the diff inside the box i doh know any thoughts?

what i noticed and im using redline 75w 90 in the box at start ups in the mornings there is no noise from the box when i corner when the engine heats up or rather the the car is driven a few miles the noise appears again slowly then full swing with this horrible noise clak clak each time i corner at slow speeds though

any views on this how to solve it , i want to change the oil to belray 75w 140 how efficient this will be ?
Last edited by TRDGUY on January 15th, 2010, 6:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby janfar » January 15th, 2010, 8:59 am

TRDGUY wrote:fellas reading some of the issues allyuh having with shifter bushings , tappet noise,gbox probs i myslef have sorted out some of these on my 93t GSR, first of all changing the bushings on the shifter only stops the play, still doesnt stop the grating or stiff moments when shifting, i realized that the bushing on top of the gearbox was missing and only playing within the shifter cable and the shaft of the gbox substitute working like butter now, im not sure but when i lock my steering from either side while cornering at low speeds i get this clak clak sound now its not the cv joints nor any thing related to the suspension i changed nearly everything new,
when i disengage the clutch no clak clak noise some say its the diff inside the box i doh know any thoughts?
what i noticed and im using redline 75w 90 in the box at start ups in the mornings there is no noise from the box when i corner when the engine heats up or rather the the car is driven a few miles the noise appears again slowly then full swing with this horrible noise clak clak each time i corner at slow speeds though

any views on this how to solve it , i want to change the oil to belray 75w 140 how efficient this will be ?



:english:

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Postby Death-Row » January 15th, 2010, 9:03 am

just wanted to find out something, if one was to convert a cb3 into a full evo3, will they fall victim to licensing? even self be targeted everytime at a road block? person has all reciepts for parts bought.

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Postby janfar » January 15th, 2010, 9:36 am

In my opinion no. Cause its the same as a guy taking his Galant and putting an RB is it. All he has to do is a change of engine. The Chassis remains the same. Once in liscensing office the Chassis matches the engine all is well. No info is given on the CC as to drive train specs et al.

That wont rule out being targeted at the roadblock though. So it is always wise to walk with your CC so they can cross ref the Chassis number to whats on the CC.

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Postby Death-Row » January 15th, 2010, 10:30 am

janfar,k, kool. sounds good.

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Postby TRDGUY » January 15th, 2010, 5:57 pm

hmm it looks like is only two people sharing their problems and remedies......

Janfar one question sir , are you not from trinidad? was i speaking such borken english you didnt understand or you fidling around with your emotion options?

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Postby Nik » January 15th, 2010, 10:08 pm

Sanctifier wrote:We haven't seen much info on the CC & CD GSRs for quite a while, so here goes...
BTW specs for the CM5A are very similar.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS:
TURBO SYSTEM
Model No .................................. TD04L-13G-5
Waste gate opening pressure ....... 78 kPa

FLUID CAPACITIES (litres)
Engine oil pan (with filter) .............. 4.0
.................... (without filter) ........ 3.8
Manual transaxle .......................... 1.8
Engine coolant ............................. 5.0
Reserve tank ............................... 0.7
Fuel tank .................................... 50
Power steering ..............................0.9

LUBRICANT SPECIFICATIONS
Engine Requirements of the A.P.I. classification "For 18:service SE (or higher)" having a low phosphorous formulation suitable for use in vehicles fitted with catalytic converters and with the correct S.A.E. viscosity grade number for the expected temperature range.

Manual Transaxle Gear Oil; API classification GL-4 (preferred) or higher viscosity No. SAE 75/85W, 80W

Power steering Dexron II Automatic transmission fluid

Brakes Heavy Duty Brake Fluid, or a fluid conforming to DOT 4 specification

Engine coolant Mitsubishi Long Life Coolant at the specified concentration by mixing with demineralised
or rainwater only.

Wheel bearings Lithium Base "Multi-purpose" E.P No.2 grease

DIMENSIONS (mm)
Overall length ........................... 4275
Overall width mm ....................... 1690
Overall height mm ...................... 1385
Wheelbase mm .......................... 2500
Track - Front ............................ 1450
.............. - Rear .............................. 1460
Ground clearance mm (unladen) ...... 150
Turning circle - kerb to kerb ............ 10.2m
Seating capacity ............................ 5

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS(Nm)
Cylinder head bolts - hot engine ......... 80-85
................................ - cold engine..... #t 20 + ¼ + ¼#
Camshaft sprocket bolts .................... 90
Camshaft bearing caps - M6 ............... 11
..................................... - M8 ............... 24
Main bearing cap bolts ..................... *25 + ¼
Crankshaft pulley to sprocket .............. 12-15
Connecting rod cap nuts ................... *20 + ¼
Crankshaft sprocket bolt ................... 185
Flywheel/drive plate crankshaft bolts ... 100

#t = Tightening angle method after initial tension to 75 Nm then completely loosened.
* = Tightening angle method

GENERAL ENGINE DATA
Engine ............................ 1.8litre
Model ............................ 4G93
Type ............................. 16v Double Overhead Cam
Bore mm ......................... 81
Stroke mm ...................... 89
Displacement cc ........... 1834
Power Rating DIN 70020 ... 141 kW (192 ps / 189 bhp) @ 6000 RPM
Torque Rating DIN 70020 .. 249 Nm (184 lb.ft) @ 3000 RPM
Compression Ration .......... 8.5:1
Compression Pressure .... 935 kPa
Firing Order ................ 1-3-4-2
Valve clearance (hot)
.............. - Inlet mm .......... Auto
........ - Exhaust mm ...... Auto
Valve Timing - Intake Valve Opens BTDC ..... 19deg
Intake Valve Shut ATDC ........................... 53deg
Duration ............................................... 253deg
Spark Plug Type: NKG BK6E ... Bosch F7DC ... Nippondenso K20P-U
Spark Plug Gap mm .................................. 0.7-0.8 mm
ECI Engine timing (with terminal grounded) ... 5deg BTDC +- 2deg
Idle speed rpm ....................................... 750+/-100 rpm
Specifications so marked were correct at time of publication. If these specifications differ from those on the Vehicle Emission Control Label (in the engine bay) use the specification on the label.

NOTE On vehicles fitted with a catalytic converter a blackened exhaust pipe is a normal condition.

COOLING SYSTEM
Thermostat opens ................... 77 deg C
Radiator cap release pressure ... 75 to 105 kPa

TRANSAXLE
Type ..................... Manual
Model .................... W5M33
Gear ratios .............. 5 Speed
1st ............................ 2.916
2nd ............................ 1.684
3rd ............................ 1.115
4th ............................ 0.833
5th ............................ 0.666
Reverse ...................... 3.166
Primary reduction .......... 1.680
Transfer gear ............... 1.090
Final drive gear - front ... 2.936
.................... - rear .... 4.525

BRAKES (mm)
Front .............................. Ventilated Disc
Diameter ...................................... 204.0
Thickness - Std mm ......................... 24.0
............. - Min mm ......................... 22.4
Lining pad thickness .......................... 2.0
Disc run out ..................................... 0.8

Rear ....................................... Solid Disc
Diameter ...................................... 224.0
Thickness ...................................... 10.0
Lining pad thickness .......................... 2.0
Disc run out ..................................... 0.8

Wheel speed sensor clearance - front ... Fixed
........................................ - rear .... 0.3 - 0.9

Master cylinder - Tandem, dual proportioning valve with 'x' split system
Bore diameter ................................... 22.2
Booster Master Vac Diameter ................ 180/205
Brake pedal height .............................. 162 - 165
Brake pedal freeplay ............................ 3 - 8
Park brake lever stroke ......................... 5 - 7 notches @ 200N


WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Front suspension ............................................ McPherson strut, coil spring
Camber (non~adjustable) ................................. 0 deg +- 30'
Caster .......................................................... 2 deg 20' +- 30'
Toe-in (measured at centre of tyre tread) ........... 0 +- 3mm
Toe-in Angle .................................................. 0 deg +-0 deg 9'
Toe-out angle on turns when outer wheel at 20' ... 21 deg 12'
King-pin inclination .......................................... 12 deg 49'
Rear suspension ............................................. Trailing arm multi-link
Camber ......................................................... 0 deg 40' +- 30'
Toe-in (at rim) ............................................... 0.5 +- 2.5 mm

STEERING GEAR
Type ............................................................. Rack and pinion
Steering wheel free play ................................... 10-30 mm

CLUTCH
Type ...................................... Single diaphragm with single dry disc
Diameter .................................. 215 x 140 mm
Pedal free play ............................. 6 - 13 mm
Pedal height ............................. 162 - 165 mm
Release bearing ......................... Self centering type


WHEELS & TYRES
Wheels ........................................ 14" x 5.5" JJ
Tyre ........................................... 195/60R14 85V
Pressure - Front ............................ 210kPa
Pressure - Rear ............................. 200-210 kPa
Rim runout max lateral\radial ............ 1.0 mm


ELECTRICAL
Battery ............................ 272 CCA 49 minutes
Alternator .......................... 12v with integrated voltage regulator
Output .............................. 65 A


FUEL SYSTEM
Type .................................. Multipoint electronically controlled
Fuel pump ........................... Electric in tank
Pressure ............................. 335 kPa
Fuel type ............................ Unleaded petrol only

That should be enough for now... :wink:


TRDGUY,see if this helps... not sure y u gettin that prob still, but hearing from several early evo owners of similar probs... will look into it...

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Postby TRDGUY » January 16th, 2010, 8:11 pm

NIK bro how things , what going on with the guy from couva? well when i come back i will change the oil again and see if it stops because when in the mornings when i now start up no probs untill when i drive for a few miles or so the problem will start gradually so im in the opinion that it could be the oil loosing viscosity when it heats up i doh know ..............will try something .........besides that the car working like a charm sweet........ contemplating going back honda so let me know if the guy interested......

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Postby janfar » January 17th, 2010, 4:26 am

TRDGUY wrote:hmm it looks like is only two people sharing their problems and remedies......

Janfar one question sir , are you not from trinidad? was i speaking such borken english you didnt understand or you fidling around with your emotion options?


Eh???

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Postby Death-Row » January 20th, 2010, 7:32 am

Image


:shock: :D :D :D :D :D

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