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The Official CS Lancer Thread!

Mitsu Lancer, Evo, GSR, MIVEC, 4G**, GDI, Galant, Outlander, L200 Sportero/Triton etc.

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idlemind
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Postby idlemind » September 14th, 2007, 9:57 am

bnrampage, what model lancer???
if its the CS, you stuck with drums. you may have to fabricate a CK's own

never encountered a CS with rear disks, or i mite be wrong

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fras
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Postby fras » September 14th, 2007, 10:41 am

Some cedia wagons come with read disc... I'm not sure but I believe the CK read disc would work!

20,000 CVT Fluid change?

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Postby idlemind » September 14th, 2007, 10:44 am

fras wrote:Some cedia wagons come with read disc... I'm not sure but I believe the CK read disc would work!


those wagons are 4G93T 4wd...those axles may not work..worth the fabrication??? bess bet is the CK rear disks

but IMHO, my last ride had rear discs and braking in wet conditions were horrible, almost scary.

the CS braking + abs gives me a more comfortable ride and braking experience, in wet and dry conditions.

maybe you should consider upgrading to higher performance front discs, which i think was discussed in previous pages...careful though the CS rotors warp easily

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Postby fras » September 14th, 2007, 11:08 am

I'm not sure if it came fron the N/A or tubro cedia wagon but I know someone who got a rear disc in the bamboo!

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venum
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Postby venum » September 14th, 2007, 5:27 pm

20,000 km fluid change pronto

check the transmission mount wrt to that jerk - ~$1000.00 mount and labour to change

check also the cross-member mounts

my GF CS3 has the same problem with the driver side window

I didn't try the hitting thing (I do not beat my Mitsu's)

Electrician told me it was teh regulator

rear disc setup - give up already !!!

teh CS5W's some were fwd and had drums in teh back

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Postby fras » September 14th, 2007, 5:36 pm

venum wrote:I didn't try the hitting thing (I do not beat my Mitsu's)
:lol: Well my window was sticking in the track so I had to get it loose... Didnt wanna force/pull it down!

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fras
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Postby fras » September 14th, 2007, 5:36 pm

venum wrote:I didn't try the hitting thing (I do not beat my Mitsu's)
:lol: Well my window was sticking in the track so I had to get it loose... Didnt wanna force/pull it down!

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T7performance
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Postby T7performance » September 14th, 2007, 5:46 pm

Didn't think rear disc was possible on the CS ... best of luck to all who attempt it
currently looking at some "brembo" cross drilled or slotted rotors to replace the oem.

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Postby fras » September 14th, 2007, 5:55 pm

It is I could post pics of a CS with rear disc!

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Postby bnrampage » September 14th, 2007, 8:05 pm

hmm 20,000km !!!
i hearing all kinda different thing now, the mech tech on work saying 40,000km, but i'll play it safe with 20,000km the user manual eh say nothing about it , wondering if i can get a maintenance manual for it.

My Cars is a CS3A....... idlemind had me wondering if i was in the wrong forum !!!
Last edited by bnrampage on September 14th, 2007, 8:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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fras
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Postby fras » September 14th, 2007, 8:13 pm

20,000km unless u have an external tranny cooler

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Postby idlemind » September 15th, 2007, 12:28 pm

bnrampage, 20,000km is LAW, reconsider ur mech if thats the stuff he suggesting. BTW I jus wanted to confirm the model lancer you own...no biggie
Most of us have given up the rear disc idea

fras i have seen a CS wagon with rear discs but only on the turbo lancers/evo lancers. namely the yellow wagon with EVOLUTION VII on the back :lol:

T7performance, give me more info on that conversion coz a common problem with all CS's are warping rotors...no matter if you grind them they warp again...even the stock discs warping them. so i figure the only solution is to upgrade the rotors.

regards

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Postby venum » September 15th, 2007, 5:13 pm

fras wrote:20,000km unless u have an external tranny cooler


external tranny oil cooler and I still change at 20,000km pronto

but you can extend the interval to 25,000km with the cooler

keeping the Lancer IMACULATE

selling next year

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fras
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Postby fras » September 15th, 2007, 7:08 pm

venum wrote:keeping the Lancer IMACULATE

selling next year
And u talking about me :lol: I just wanna sell a year earlier... I may buy another tho original manual

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Postby T7performance » September 15th, 2007, 7:33 pm

idlemind wrote:T7performance, give me more info on that conversion coz a common problem with all CS's are warping rotors...no matter if you grind them they warp again...even the stock discs warping them. so i figure the only solution is to upgrade the rotors.

regards


Basically I checking two brands of rotors brembo and powerslot ..they have both the cross drilled and slotted versions. I'm waiting on a confirmation on fitting email before I get my hopes up though.

EDIT: Same size, bolt on type ... not "big brakes"

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Postby idlemind » September 15th, 2007, 7:35 pm

thanks, please update when you hear anything more

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fras
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Postby fras » September 15th, 2007, 7:42 pm

What size is our rotor disc?
Would the disc from the us lancer work? Cause I found rotors for thoes... same spacing 4*100!

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Postby idlemind » September 15th, 2007, 8:04 pm

fras wrote:What size is our rotor disc?
Would the disc from the us lancer work? Cause I found rotors for thoes... same spacing 4*100!


wont they warp the same? though atmospheric temperatures are different and it may not be a prominent issue in the US?

Singaporians agree the stock rotors warp..guess we should research some USDM forums and see

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teichou
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Postby teichou » September 16th, 2007, 8:28 pm

i changed my drums on the CS to discs
i think the discs came from a cedia wagon and they fit perfectly didn't even have to camber over and i still retained my ABS

if you ain believe ask FRAS
and i did the install myself the only thing thing that needed minor adjustments was the hand brakes cable that attaches directly to the lever
and CK rear discs will work on a CS to the best of my knowledge 'cause i had the choice of either and i chose the one from the cedia wagon (it has pads for the rotor and shoes inside a drum for the e-brakes)

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Postby venum » September 17th, 2007, 7:04 pm

^^^ wonderful news for the guys looking to do this conversion

I don't think that anyone should doubt you, cuz you haven't been know to BS around

link some install pics if you can

$$$ averages

FRAS - diesel dreams becoming irresistable - waking up cold sweating thinking bout L's

need to change my paradigm

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Postby T7performance » September 17th, 2007, 7:08 pm

teichou wrote:i changed my drums on the CS to discs
i think the discs came from a cedia wagon and they fit perfectly didn't even have to camber over and i still retained my ABS

if you ain believe ask FRAS
and i did the install myself the only thing thing that needed minor adjustments was the hand brakes cable that attaches directly to the lever
and CK rear discs will work on a CS to the best of my knowledge 'cause i had the choice of either and i chose the one from the cedia wagon (it has pads for the rotor and shoes inside a drum for the e-brakes)


Hows the handling while braking? wouldn't mind seeing a pic too lol

Alternatively,
Image

If anyone other than me notices the dark spots on those gauges, can you suggest what type of bulb i need? also the "D" gear indicator light doesn't work anymore so i also need to replace that.

Also, how many of the "blue" bulbs would i need to replace ALL behind the gauges

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Postby idlemind » September 17th, 2007, 7:52 pm

ah ha, venum is the best man to suggest instrument panel issues

What i want to know is how your thingy goes up to 220 :?

you calibrate that to actually reach 220? or is really only 180km u reaching? even the evo7s only go up to 180 :|

jus asking eh pal

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venum
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Postby venum » September 17th, 2007, 11:49 pm

For the love of CS3's

REAR OF IP

Image

Bulbs 1-4 are the main ones that light up the entire IP face

Bulb 5 is your odometer\trip meters


BACKING REMOVED

RIGHT SIDE

Image


MIDDLE

Image


LEFT SIDE

Image

What I cannot understand, is why, when held up to the light, the bulbs labeled NOTHING did not show any particular icon.

I believe the one under the Fog Lamp is the rear fog lamp

idlemind wrote:ah ha, venum is the best man to suggest instrument panel issues


such faith . . . :mrgreen:

idlemind wrote: What i want to know is how your thingy goes up to 220 :?

you calibrate that to actually reach 220? or is really only 180km u reaching? even the evo7s only go up to 180 :|


Evo VII's do much more that 180km\h

SDM cars are calibrated higher than their JDM counterparts

JDM cars often have a speed cut at 180km\h, but can easily go past when removed

couple of 2nrs claim (believably) that they have gotten 200km\h + out of their CS3's

I personally have never pushed past 180 km\h on a test run, but she could have gone further

idlemind wrote:jus asking eh pal


here is definately the place to ask, Its why we are all here - to learn



T7performance as for your question about the bulb, that is a good question.

Image

The bulbs contacts are wrapped onto the bulb holder in a very fine groove, such that when the bulb is placed in its position in the circuit board and locked into place, the wire bulb contact touches\makes contact with the circuit board's contact

to use a bulb here, you will have to gut one , such that it can fit in the bulb holder and wrap around in similar form

the hole for the bulb contact has a very fine bore, so you will need a bulb with a very fine contact

I bought some from Gopaul's Electronics when I needed to change on my CK Lancer. those were just bulbs with wire contacts, so I did not have to gut them. However, their colour went from Blue to Orange in 2 years, so I do not recommend them, although they still light.

The indicator (ABS, oil, SRC etc) bulbs are the same way.

be very careful when removing the IP, as Mitsu didn't make this very easy (a hell of a lot easier on the CK Lancers)

My suggestion:

drop steering as low as it goes, unscrew bezel (2 screws), remove bezel (firmly pulling foward), remove three screws that hold the IP in place, turn the IP downwards (so teh top faces you), unclip both dongles (top left and right) and gentle ease teh IP out from behind teh steering wheel.

the dongles do not have much excess so you need to un-clip them in the small space there is

you have to be very gentle

If you find that the bulb holders are difficult to remove, you can use a screwdriver, as they have a crossed slots on them

to remove the bulb contacts from the bulb holder (first remove teh bulb holder with bulb from teh IP) you can pry the contacts out with a very fin tipped flat-head screwdriver - a jewellers\electronics set is ideal

thaz it, ENJOY !!!

the next time allyuh coming dex or meet me anywhere, allyuh better walk with some Green Sands and LLB, cuz this write up take 2 hrs !

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Postby T7performance » September 18th, 2007, 1:31 am

idlemind wrote:ah ha, venum is the best man to suggest instrument panel issues

What i want to know is how your thingy goes up to 220 :?

you calibrate that to actually reach 220? or is really only 180km u reaching? even the evo7s only go up to 180 :|

jus asking eh pal


Well it's a SDM lancer and i've squeezed 200k out of it. Maybe if i had normal plugs instead of iridiums :roll: i would've gotten more but it certainly is possible. :lol:

Venum, like i don't have a choice but to disassemble this thing twice, i really didn't want to but i don't think 5 bulb alone lighting up the gauges ... because the bottom bright and on top is like 3 dark spots. Are your pics of an IP with white gauges?

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idlemind
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Postby idlemind » September 18th, 2007, 7:31 am

venum, you a boss....doh worry yuh LLB dun booked :mrgreen:

Thanks man, good job

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venum
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Postby venum » September 18th, 2007, 8:03 am

T7performance wrote:
Venum, like i don't have a choice but to disassemble this thing twice, i really didn't want to but i don't think 5 bulb alone lighting up the gauges ... because the bottom bright and on top is like 3 dark spots. Are your pics of an IP with white gauges?


bulb 5 can't light much except for teh odometer

my IP is the normal charcoal coloured

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idlemind
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Postby idlemind » September 18th, 2007, 9:47 am

regarding the evo7 only going up to 180km/h
i was jus refering to the stock evo speedo

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idlemind
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Postby idlemind » September 18th, 2007, 10:22 pm

Can anyone suggest a good performance front disc brake brand for the CS?
Buying tomorow need a response quickly

thanks

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venum
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Postby venum » September 18th, 2007, 10:37 pm

Hawk as suggested by W2J to me sometime ago

Rudman damaged some CK rotors wit EBC green stuff

good ole Daishin

Wagner

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idlemind
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Postby idlemind » September 18th, 2007, 10:40 pm

venum wrote:Hawk as suggested by W2J to me sometime ago



He stocks this at his shop???

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