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slick wrote:Any recommendations for de-sludging a 4G18 in a CS3?
turbo_beast369 wrote:slick wrote:Any recommendations for de-sludging a 4G18 in a CS3?
scrap, clean and re-build....
or, if you don't want to go through all that and you willing to spend some money, have very very frequent oil changes with a relatively cheap thinner body oil so you flush out the engine as best as possible
ronsin1 wrote:venum had a post on this earlier in the thread search for it
I think he used an oil I think it was NP 10W-30 for a couple days then drained and put the oil he would normally use in his engine
ZeroOne wrote:^^^^Bwhahahahhaah
and what if he starts the engine with the diesel in it??
idlemind wrote:Leave a note on the dash..Diesel in engine, do not start.
idlemind wrote:Full the engine with diesel, let it sit overnight and drain next morning.
Sludge be gone..
idlemind wrote:There's a product from NP called Engine Flush.
BrotherHood wrote:Nex ting I wake up next day and forget it ha diesel in dey and start up.
I fraid da one dred..
box4lancer wrote:BrotherHood wrote:Nex ting I wake up next day and forget it ha diesel in dey and start up.
I fraid da one dred..
wen next u gonna change oil put some tranny fluid in d engine. start up and let circulate it will thin out d oil. den change oil... i've done it b4.
Sanctifier wrote:2nr 8 wrote:Sanctifier, what engine flush would you recommend? is the auto RX sold locally?
i'm still a little skeptical about the flush, but i've changed oil brands a few times, and i KNOW i might be gathering some sludge.
can you clear up something for me as well: when you say use a cheap "flushing" oil; do you mean after i use the engine flush, put some cheap oil like a gallon of quaker state mineral oil and a regular filter (say purolater)? how long do i run the car with this oil in it? and if i use a cheap mineral oil like the quakerstate or castrol GTX, and i go back to my castrol syntec, wouldn't that defeat the purpose?
i'm a little uncertain about these procedures, would you mind clearing them up?
2nr 8... IMHO sludge causes so much unnecessary wear to the engine that I would
do a chemical flush at least every 2 or 3 oil changes and use "flushing oil" every time first.
what engine flush See what's available and then do a Google for any reviews of it.
is the auto RX sold locally? Don't know. Flush is so seldom used by anyone except marine/
industrial engineers etc. that you'll have to use any decent one that's available.
i KNOW i might be gathering some sludge. You can bet on it. Once an engine is working, sludge forms.
1 gallon gas burnt = 1 gallon of water vapour formed in the combustion chamber.
Now add intake dirt at about 350-600 c.f.m. (cubic feet a minute) because no filter is perfect.
Now mix with carbon deposits etc... IMHO I can't see how there couldn't be sludge formation!
cheap "flushing" oil... There is actually a product called "Flushing Oil."
NP should have in Sea Lots. Check your gas station to order.
It's a very low viscosity oil that's designed to do just that... to "flush" old
oil residue and dirt (sludge) out of the engine and oil-pan.
NEVER START YOUR ENGINE WITH "FLUSHING OIL" IN IT!...
*At most crank for as short as possible once or twice with plug leads disconnected.*
Otherwise you'll burn your bearings very quickly... (As I said before... been there... done that!)![]()
procedures... Follow the "chemical flush" instructions to the letter.
ALWAYS have your engine at normal operating temperature first.
Add "chemical flush" to engine...
Start engine and follow instructions to the letter. The only variation might be to use
"chemical flush" for a minute or two less. ("Damn sure!" better than "Cocksure!")
Stop engine and immediately remove sump plug and old filter...
Drain thoroughly...
Replace sump plug and old filter...
Add "flushing oil"... (at least a gallon...)
...DO NOT START!!!!... (See *...* above.)
Remove sump plug and old filter...
Drain thoroughly...(maybe do this step twice... it's very cheap.)
Maybe if you're very cautious... add a litre of your new oil and drain that first too.
Install new filter and replace sump plug... Add oil to OEM specifications... Don't under/over fill.
Add extra to account for filter volume (fill then drain old filter to learn accurate amount first.)
Now you can start... but allow the engine to warm up again before you "flog" it.![]()
Yup I know... "Picky"...but I paid $20k for my E7 engine. After "add-ons" like cams, exhaust,
ECU, water injection etc. double that! Parts and labour ain't free. What's yours worth to you?
IMHO cleaning the engine properly is a hell of a lot more important than making a huge issue
about whose brand to buy. That decision should be based upon OEM specs and application.
My $0.05c
BrotherHood wrote:You hadda do that infront my eyes yes... ATF SP111 in the engine.
Let's just say I don't believe everything I hear, try to decifer sense from nonsense and......
I am not a lucky fella.
Biggs3ne wrote:Just finished going through his post....that man real knowledgeable boy...weysss...thanks for the post...will attempt the oil flush when I do my next oil change..not sure if I ever saw any flushing oil from NP though...
Anyone ever did an engine flush?
lolBrotherHood wrote:My engine works ok. Will stick to frequent oil changes
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