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moses_boss12 wrote:Based on personal experience,which rim size and specs gave you all best performance and smooth ride???..wanna get a set but contemplating on what to get..i know 14 inch are the recommended size for the cs..any suggestions
chosen1 wrote:idlemind wrote:Jade check your plugs and coil packs for oil.
You can be burning off all the oil there.
If the plug seal is leaking..it wouldn't be to the tune of a gallon of oil i dont think, while i agree that he should check for it.
its leaking somewhere and zero may be correct. you should also check to see if you have oil burning as a result of worn rings. check to see if you have oily cooling fluid as well.
Jade_Inc. wrote:chosen1 wrote:idlemind wrote:Jade check your plugs and coil packs for oil.
You can be burning off all the oil there.
If the plug seal is leaking..it wouldn't be to the tune of a gallon of oil i dont think, while i agree that he should check for it.
its leaking somewhere and zero may be correct. you should also check to see if you have oil burning as a result of worn rings. check to see if you have oily cooling fluid as well.
No oily fluids...oil isn't burning, I added a lot more oil and so far I've been checking it and Its not going down.
moses_boss12 wrote:Thanks for the info guys..was really looking at getting some 17's, but happy for the feedback...anything in particular i need to pay special attention to if i decide to go with the 17's ?? likewise the 15's
idlemind wrote:moses_boss12 wrote:Thanks for the info guys..was really looking at getting some 17's, but happy for the feedback...anything in particular i need to pay special attention to if i decide to go with the 17's ?? likewise the 15's
With 17s the lighter the better. Chromes tend to be the heaviest. Don't go ridiculously wide too...a 7" or 7.5" rim width max, if you go wider you will have to flare the fenders. Expect minor rubbing on the fender shield when locking over...it all depends on the offset of the rim and tyre size combination (a 46mm or less offset and 215/45/17 max tyres size). But if you are ok with a lil rub, then don't let these figures hinder your decision.
mitsu_chick941 wrote:hey guys i'm having a lil issue......sometimes when i start on mornings the car cuts off.
I restart and then it idles rough for a lil bit then back to normal.
I changed the plugs and service injectors, still get the problem.
A mechanic suggest that it might be something to do with some part by the gas tank.
Cant remember exactly what he said.![]()
Just changed timing belt, bushing and knuckle joint 2 days ago, this car driving me crazyyyy![]()
nissan4life wrote:mitsu_chick941 wrote:hey guys i'm having a lil issue......sometimes when i start on mornings the car cuts off.
I restart and then it idles rough for a lil bit then back to normal.
I changed the plugs and service injectors, still get the problem.
A mechanic suggest that it might be something to do with some part by the gas tank.
Cant remember exactly what he said.![]()
Just changed timing belt, bushing and knuckle joint 2 days ago, this car driving me crazyyyy![]()
Clean the throttle body and check you air filter... last time this happened to me it ended up being a failing coilpack( i have gdi and that has a minds of its own)... you ll never really know until the coil pack actually ready to give up
If it is a gas/pump related problem it should happen occasionally and not only on cold starts
Ask the old guru idle and see wa he says.
idlemind wrote:Ok so you need to be checking air, fuel and spark with idling/start up issues.
Spark and air are fairly easy to check.
Spark: When the car is idling normal, unplug each coil pack one by one. Whenever one is unplugged the idle is supposed to drop drastically like it wants to cut off, but plug them back in quickly to prevent the cut off. So you unplugging one at a time and quickly plugging back in to prevent cut off. If you notice no change in idle when any is unplugged then you have a failing coil pack and that can be your problem.
ok, will try this
Next thing to check is your air intake system. Look at the system from the nozzle until it goes into the air intake manifold. Does it have any electrical plugs along the way or even after it goes into manifold? It should have one below the the last bit of air tubing and at the top of the manifold. You need to have these electrical sensors cleaned. The one above is a MAP sensor and the one below is the Idle control sensor.
Will need some help with this one.![]()
Absent to these then you check fuel. Do you use super or premium? Do you wait the the car is on E to full? Do you full up at a run down gas station? It could very well mean you got some bad gas if it only recently happening. If not then you can have the mechanic check the fuel pump and clean out the tea bag filter.
I use super and red line gas treatment once in a while. I full up at mostly at the unipet p/town. I think only once the car ever got to E before full up, i like my tank always above quarter tank.
Wait until the gas light comes on and scrap out the back seat and remove the gas pump. You should be able to tell how clean inside your gas tank is.
will do this also.
Other than that you could wait until the gas light comes on, go by a new gas station and put $20 premium and pour in a bottle of octane boost and drive it like you stole it for a 10 minutes. Make sure and kick down a few times.
will try this one last![]()
idlemind wrote:ronsin1 has experience with cam and crank shaft sensor issues
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