Taken from said document:
Your engine does not have any fuel efficiency requirement; you do not have a catalytic convert on your race engine either, so why run oil whose main focus doesn’t pertain to your needs?
False
Mobil 1 used to be considered such oil, but it has been many years since it was
reformulated and “watered down” to accommodate OEM emissions and fuel efficiency requirements.
Which one?
Use a suitable racing oil designed for high film strength and heavy pressure loading such as Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs, Valvoline VR1, Amsoil Racing oil or Royal Purple racing oil.Also remember that racing oils are detergent free and need to be changed frequently.
wtf
The first thing was that we changed to Mobil 1 10w-30 and the second thing was the result, thrust bearing damage.
suggestive and again which one of the 10w30?
The point of the document is that you should use an oil with sufficent zinc and phosphorous to (not explicitly stated) to bond with the metal and greater body to ensure a film is always there to protect it. BUT the never really came out ans said that.
Instead they bashed a brand that actually has an oil to suite their need yet did not high-lite it, passively suggest that 10w30 is not a good body oil even though they (again passively) have not done extensive testing over a wide range of oils, say you don't need an oil with detergent (that's just plain old bull sh1t) because your car is only to race with and make assumption about our cars just not reasonable. Now FP does make some bitchin turbos but since most of them are stock frame, the statement about our cars being only race machines is a little contradictory.
I'll say this much....no way in hell I running my car with detergent free oil (racing oil). Sludge deposited as far as I know is a function of car use over time. Changing your oil every 3000 mile might be great but with no detergent it its not gonna stop the sludge.