AE110/111 Thread

[Ronaldo95163]

How dem 7As does run compared to something like a QG18?

And yeah 25k for that is way too much.
They selling the full engine and gearbox conversion for 15k tho...i guess that not too bad. But I hear the 6fwd boxes cant take as much roughing up as the 5fwd and almost impossible to find one when it gone.

[Mercenary]

wat plugs u using?

[Ronaldo95163]

wat plugs u using?

Standard NGK plugs you does get in them parts place.

How much so gearbox conversions does go for?
I call around a few places and I either hearing 3500/4000. Thats with box,mounts,ECU,shifter,pedals,slave cylinder and Instrument panel.

Dunno if thats good price or what

[RollaBoi]

Nice I like this thread. Ronaldo95163 Where you got the full GT interior conversion? How much you paid for it and the cost to install it? Also I'm currently having a problem with my AC that I think may be electrical, at random times the AC would stop blowing cold air and the clock would blank off then after a while AC and clock would come back on. It don't affect the radio as it would work as normal. Anybody ever experience this?

[Ronaldo95163]

Nice I like this thread. Ronaldo95163 Where you got the full GT interior conversion? How much you paid for it and the cost to install it? Also I'm currently having a problem with my AC that I think may be electrical, at random times the AC would stop blowing cold air and the clock would blank off then after a while AC and clock would come back on. It don't affect the radio as it would work as normal. Anybody ever experience this?

D&Ds in the Bamboo.
Cater for around 4-6k for everything
Can't say how much it cost to install it...did it at home. The hardest part was swapping the dashboard. It's a 2 person job imo. Everything else simple.
Just sell back your old stuff and you'd offset what you paid for it by a decent amount.

WRT the AC problem...it's probably the panel itself, the AC button,Econ button,defogger and clock is wired into a circuit board behind the panel...so most likely it's faulty. Check for faulty connections first though.

And by the panel I mean this itself:

[RollaBoi]

Nice I like this thread. Ronaldo95163 Where you got the full GT interior conversion? How much you paid for it and the cost to install it? Also I'm currently having a problem with my AC that I think may be electrical, at random times the AC would stop blowing cold air and the clock would blank off then after a while AC and clock would come back on. It don't affect the radio as it would work as normal. Anybody ever experience this?

D&Ds in the Bamboo.
Cater for around 4-6k for everything
Can't say how much it cost to install it...did it at home. The hardest part was swapping the dashboard. It's a 2 person job imo. Everything else simple.
Just sell back your old stuff and you'd offset what you paid for it by a decent amount.

WRT the AC problem...it's probably the panel itself, the AC button,Econ button,defogger and clock is wired into a circuit board behind the panel...so most likely it's faulty. Check for faulty connections first though.

And by the panel I mean this itself:

Ok thanks will check the panel. Is D&Ds in Bamboo number 1 and will anywhere in the Bamboo buy back my interior stuff from me?

[Ronaldo95163]

Nice I like this thread. Ronaldo95163 Where you got the full GT interior conversion? How much you paid for it and the cost to install it? Also I'm currently having a problem with my AC that I think may be electrical, at random times the AC would stop blowing cold air and the clock would blank off then after a while AC and clock would come back on. It don't affect the radio as it would work as normal. Anybody ever experience this?

D&Ds in the Bamboo.
Cater for around 4-6k for everything
Can't say how much it cost to install it...did it at home. The hardest part was swapping the dashboard. It's a 2 person job imo. Everything else simple.
Just sell back your old stuff and you'd offset what you paid for it by a decent amount.

WRT the AC problem...it's probably the panel itself, the AC button,Econ button,defogger and clock is wired into a circuit board behind the panel...so most likely it's faulty. Check for faulty connections first though.

And by the panel I mean this itself:

Ok thanks will check the panel. Is D&Ds in Bamboo number 1 and will anywhere in the Bamboo buy back my interior stuff from me?

Yeah there self.
You'd be lucky if you find a place that willing to buy back your stuff tbh

Your best bet is on tuner/facebook

[RollaBoi]

Hmm ok....selling it on tuner/facebook might really be my best bet. I just hope I get it sell quick if I decide to go that route as having a place to keep that would be an issue for me. Anyway thanks again for the info. I wonder what price the blacktop and silvertop engines go for? Can I reuse my 5A Fe transmission and is the engine swap really worth it?

[Ronaldo95163]

Hmm ok....selling it on tuner/facebook might really be my best bet. I just hope I get it sell quick if I decide to go that route as having a place to keep that would be an issue for me. Anyway thanks again for the info. I wonder what price the blacktop and silvertop engines go for? Can I reuse my 5A Fe transmission and is the engine swap really worth it?

Transmission could work back but you'd be losing out on performance. The transmissions are geared differently...better to swap everything across.
And parts kinda hard to get for the engine locally...could go 7a if you looking for a lil more power and still be able to get parts for it down here.

[kamakazi]

As mentioned earlier... All those engines (4afe, 5afe and 7afe) are economy engines and the transmissions are geared for economy. Even with the same engine the transmission gearing was different based on the vehicle model.

[RollaBoi]

I wonder how common those 7a engines are? I would of like to get some more power maybe in the far future or if for whatever reason I have to change the engine. Price for those probably high and if I do go 7a would it make that much of a difference since its really an economy engine?

[Ronaldo95163]

I could imagine that 7As would be expensive...actually these 4a/5a engines are overpriced. Dunno how these engines could be more expensive than QG15/16/18s that far better imo.

Think there was one at Mohammed's by grand bazaar the last time I was there.

But is a bolt in swap and change ECU and you back on the road again.
Day work tbh.


I not sure how they perform though.

Just remember with significant increases in power over stock your brakes should be upgraded as well

[kamakazi]

10-15 extra hp doesn't require that much extra brakes...

[Ronaldo95163]

10-15 extra hp doesn't require that much extra brakes...

Damn.
7As that slow?

[RollaBoi]

Well if that is the case I don't see it making much sense to put in a 7a unless maybe if my engine gone through or something. Ronaldo95163 do you have any pics of your GT interior conversion? And anybody have any tips on how to make your ride drive smoothly or close to it even when driving on bad roads?

[skibz]

Start with the tyres and work your way up to the shocks. I put on 205/60R14 and it immediately made a huge difference over the 205/50R15 I was on. It used to touch the back fender with weight though, until I made some small modifications to the wheel well.

185/70R14 and 195/60R15 sizes should work with no problems.

[Ronaldo95163]

Start with the <a class="vglnk" target="_blank" href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Tyres" rel="nofollow"><span>tyres</span></a> and work your way up to the shocks. I put on 205/60R14 and it immediately made a huge difference over the 205/50R15 I was on. It used to touch the back fender with weight though, until I made some small modifications to the wheel well.

185/70R14 and 195/60R15 sizes should work with no problems.

Woa...I was thinking of going to 205s when I changing my tyres (Currently on 195s). Was it the width of the 205s that had it touching or the profile of the tyre itself?
Currently on 15s as well.
I know the AE101 L-touring wagons suffer from that problem with the 205s touching(experienced it )...thought with the flared fenders the 110s came with would have solved this issue

Well if that is the case I don't see it making much sense to put in a 7a unless maybe if my <a class="vglnk" target="_blank" href="http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?Ntt=engine" rel="nofollow"><span>engine</span></a> gone through or something. Ronaldo95163 do you have any pics of your GT interior conversion? And anybody have any tips on how to make your ride drive smoothly or close to it even when driving on bad roads?

I didn't take any pics but this is how it looks:

http://www.tradecarview.com/used_car/japan%20car/toyota/corolla+sedan/11676134/photo/?sid=300&pn=4

[skibz]

The 205/50R15 didn't touch. It was the 205/60R14 that used to touch with a full car. That was easily fixed though.

If you're changing the tyres, going 205/50R15 wouldn't solve the 'hard ride' issue though. Try a 195/60R15 @ 30psi when you change again and see.

You could try 205/55R15 as well but you may have to flare the fender slightly more if you have a full car frequently.

[Ronaldo95163]

Nice, i'll go with the 205/50/15 then...just to eliminate the possibility of it touching with weight in the back.
I'm running KYB gas/oil shocks in the rear with the factory springs and it rides pretty smooth imo. The front has AE114(AWD Carib Wagon) coilovers (courtesy the previous owner smh) and it's a bit stiff...the car was higher at the front as well...so I took off a coil from the front as a temporary fix. It's not extremely harsh but it's stiffer than it should be.



Anyone has any experiences with coilovers btw?
BC Racing and Tein makes coilovers for the BZ-G levin (Plug and play for us ) but i'm getting mixed reviews on the internet about them wrt comfort. Some people say they get an improvement over factory...others saying it harsher but with the added benefit of some improved handling.

[RollaBoi]

Start with the <a class="vglnk" target="_blank" href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Tyres" rel="nofollow"><span>tyres</span></a> and work your way up to the shocks. I put on 205/60R14 and it immediately made a huge difference over the 205/50R15 I was on. It used to touch the back fender with weight though, until I made some small modifications to the wheel well.

185/70R14 and 195/60R15 sizes should work with no problems.

Woa...I was thinking of going to 205s when I changing my tyres (Currently on 195s). Was it the width of the 205s that had it touching or the profile of the tyre itself?
Currently on 15s as well.
I know the AE101 L-touring wagons suffer from that problem with the 205s touching(experienced it )...thought with the flared fenders the 110s came with would have solved this issue

Well if that is the case I don't see it making much sense to put in a 7a unless maybe if my <a class="vglnk" target="_blank" href="http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?Ntt=engine" rel="nofollow"><span>engine</span></a> gone through or something. Ronaldo95163 do you have any pics of your GT interior conversion? And anybody have any tips on how to make your ride drive smoothly or close to it even when driving on bad roads?

I didn't take any pics but this is how it looks:

http://www.tradecarview.com/used_car/japan%20car/toyota/corolla+sedan/11676134/photo/?sid=300&pn=4

The previous owner had 195/45R16 and it use to rub with people in the back when I changed to 195/50R/15 the rubbing stopped but I would still get minor rubbing if I rel over load the car i.e. people in the back load in the trunk. I don't know if my ride is lowered but it looks so and going down to 14s had me kinda skeptical with the car touching when going over speed bumps and steep pavements because sometimes currently I have to be weary of the steepness of those things at times with the 15s.

[RollaBoi]

Nice, i'll go with the 205/50/15 then...just to eliminate the possibility of it touching with weight in the back.
I'm running KYB gas/oil shocks in the rear with the factory springs and it rides pretty smooth imo. The front has AE114(AWD Carib Wagon) coilovers (courtesy the previous owner smh) and it's a bit stiff...the car was higher at the front as well...so I took off a coil from the front as a temporary fix. It's not extremely harsh but it's stiffer than it should be.



Anyone has any experiences with coilovers btw?
BC Racing and Tein makes coilovers for the BZ-G levin (Plug and play for us ) but i'm getting mixed reviews on the internet about them wrt comfort. Some people say they get an improvement over factory...others saying it harsher but with the added benefit of some improved handling.

The KYB gas/oil shocks sounding like it might help to get a smoother ride. Can I use it in the front as well and how much those go for?

[black start]

If comfort is the go, stay with the stock shock and springs. The stock ride on the 110 is pretty decent. The stock handling is nothing to talk about though. All depends on what you want!

[RollaBoi]

I don't know that much about suspension but I what I want to know is if I change the shocks do I also change the springs?

[Mercenary]

not necessary ...

[Ronaldo95163]

Yeah as long as you using back factory spec absorbers you good.
Shouldn't be mixing springs with spring rates that aren't suitable for the compression/rebound rates of a specific shock absorber.

BTW I see Wilwood have a big brake kit for us too
4 pot in the front, 2 pot in the rear.

Massive overkill though

[Mercenary]

Yeah as long as you using back factory spec absorbers you good.
Shouldn't be mixing springs with spring rates that aren't suitable for the compression/rebound rates of a specific shock absorber.

BTW I see Wilwood have a big brake kit for us too
4 pot in the front, 2 pot in the rear.

Massive overkill though

yea!! lol way overkill .

[RollaBoi]

Thanks for feedback guys. Ronaldo95163 with the GT interior conversion what about the mileage and speedometer does it work correctly? My AE110 is the one without a tachometer would that be a problem?

[Ronaldo95163]

Thanks for feedback guys. Ronaldo95163 with the GT interior conversion what about the mileage and speedometer does it work correctly? My AE110 is the one without a tachometer would that be a problem?

I used the cluster from the AE111 with the tach. Its the Exact same thing as the GT except it has a black face plate and it's cable speedo...the one from the GT is a digital speedo so It wasn't making sense for me to pay extra or that. (they go for like $600-$700). Normal AE111 with tacho cluster goes for $200-$300

When doing this conversion you have to rewire it. I sat down with the two clusters and traced through the tracks behind it and took note of what function each wire is for. The two connectors in the centre are wired the exact same way so they don't need to be touched. That's the blue and brown connector. The outer connectors need to be rewired, nothing hard, just trace the wires and rewire them according to the connectors from the new cluster. The colours will match back up.

The last thing you have to do is get the tach working. The tach wire behind the cluster is a black one. This connects directly to the negative terminal on the dizzy coil. It's a two pin connector by the dizzy, the wire you want is the brown one. The Diagnostic connector in the engine bay has an IG- terminal in it, so you can check it for continuity to the brown wire by the dizzy coil to make sure.

After that startup and enjoy

Oh and make sure once you buying the new cluster to get the connectors with it as well.
Also if you concerned about keeping your milage, just swap across your old speedo. It's held in by some screws behind the instrument panel.

[RollaBoi]

Hmm whoa ok thats great info I hope its easier than it sounds. So concerning a manual conversion how easy and expensive it is? Is it a sensible thing to do using back the same 5A engine I have or do you guys recommend doing a complete change over instead?

[Ronaldo95163]

I'm in two minds about doing a gearbox conversion atm. 3500-4000 for the full conversion is what I gained from calling around.

Thing is my transmission still good. Gonna be hard to shellout that money when le auto still faithful. Doubt anybody would be willing to buy a used 18 year old transmission outside of a scrapyard where they getting a 1 week warranty

Getting the tranny sell back would be great...cause I find the conversion expensive considering the age of the gearbox

I just hate autos