trinituner.com

For ppl that may not know the car it is an ep82 starlet with a 5efthe.
So i put on a new turbo as the T25 was smoking up d place did not tune and d car pull real nice for about a week or so no problems with fuel or ignition timing. my dashboard tach does not give the correct rpm reading so i had a distributor n i say let me try it. The car didnt wanna start with it so i say it must be bad. I then put back the original dizzy to the timing mark i had knotched on it at 10 degrees BTDC n the car started to ping like crazy even out of boost n wasnt pullin like how it did when the turbo was installed. I check the ignition timing again and it was way off like about 30 degrees BTDC just so, so i had to retard the dizzy almost all d way to get the timing back at 10 degrees BTDC and the car not pulling as it should. The engine timing did not change so i am a bit confussed as to what happened. any ideas as to why the timing changed or suggestions wud be appreciated as the dizzy can only be installed one way. thanks

KTS wrote:For ppl that may not know the car it is an ep82 starlet with a 5efthe.
So i put on a new turbo as the T25 was smoking up d place did not tune and d car pull real nice for about a week or so no problems with fuel or ignition timing. my dashboard tach does not give the correct rpm reading so i had a distributor n i say let me try it. The car didnt wanna start with it so i say it must be bad. I then put back the original dizzy to the timing mark i had knotched on it at 10 degrees BTDC n the car started to ping like crazy even out of boost n wasnt pullin like how it did when the turbo was installed. I check the ignition timing again and it was way off like about 30 degrees BTDC just so, so i had to retard the dizzy almost all d way to get the timing back at 10 degrees BTDC and the car not pulling as it should. The engine timing did not change so i am a bit confussed as to what happened. any ideas as to why the timing changed or suggestions wud be appreciated as the dizzy can only be installed one way. thanks

the distributer drives off the exhaust cam , so the only way it could have advanced mechanically is if the exhaust cam was retarded. but according to you all variables remained the same .

the distributer gives the ecu reference signals , crank , cam and rpm . the ecu then uses these to run injection and ignition .

the ecu will send the ignition angle to the igniter , it will fire the coil and a reference signal will return to the ecu confirming ignition .

from your description i believe that the igniter maybe faulty and/or the distributer .

do a code check look for codes: 12 , 13, 14,

on the tach problem another reason it can read bad beside bad dizzy is to make sure all the gage connections are tight , if they run slack they tend to give wrong readings.

Thanks for the info man u verified what i was thinking. will do some test when i get some time and ill update the situation

Ok so I changed the distributor and the ignitor n no better. I am also getting no error codes as u Hayden suggested I check. The vehicle is actually getting worst while driving the car cuts off due to d engine flooding with gas. When it cuts off the only way it will start back is if I tumble d engine with my foot on d gas with d dizzy disconnected to empty d cylinder from gas and connect back d dizzy and attempt starting again. When it does start is a whole set a black smoke so that's d reason y I am saying d engine is flooding wit gas. D only other option I can tink of is d ecu but y wud that spoil just so any suggestions or concerns will b apreciated

isn't there a particular method to reset base timing on the 4efte in addition to shifting the distributor?

bigchief are u refering to jumping the E1 and TE1 terminals in the diagnostic port when setting base timing?

yea, i read it on a Glanza forum somewhere but can't remember exactly

KTS dunno if this might be any help to you, but here goes...

I had a similar problem with my 4EFTE Engine with a T25 Turbo, I disconnected the unit that sends the signal to turn on the fan and connected the fan to come on with the ignition switch and my problems were solved, the car worked great after that. Keep in mind though I had that set up on a Mazda 323 lol (some serious cross-breeding dey ) dunno if it would be the same for you, I remember my car was giving me the same problems you getting, I changed the coil, igniter, distributor, plugs and nothing seemed to work I was going crazy....hope you get through man..

yeah man fellas i tink i got the situation sorted out today the timing back to where it should be. I drove the car in safety/test (not too sure what its called) mode where u place a jumper between terminals TE1 and E1 and take it for a spin. while drive code 51 appeared so checked some relays and the tps and apparantly the tps was stuck in 100% (3pin tps) cleaned it with contact cleaner tested it for continuity n reinsatalled it and the timing issued seem to have disappeared the car drove decent didnt cut off or have any hesitation. will continue to monitor it and if it returns ill update the issues. To all d ppl that assisted much thanks for all d advice.

that's good news. from what i've seen so far, your wiring must be 100% with these engines.

^^ na man wiring not 100% it still have things i dont know but u must make everyday a learning experience.
Ok so the hesitation n cut off issue returned on tuesday but after doing some checks the ground from the ecu to the throttle / water temp / air temp and map sensor was bad so replaced the ground n i cant even remember the last time the car drove n idle n not buck n stall this good.

nice one bro ,glade to see u up and running , right now im not in trinidad , but when im back goin to strip all wiring and stuff and start from scratch on d tercel. keep it up bro we go link.

yeah man i pass thru d other day lookin for u just to check yuh but they say u was out d country i bounce up ur bro but we didnt get to talkin. well man hope it all goes well on urside we go try n link up wen u back take it esay man