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never use 20w50 in ur vvti engine. use d castrol 10w30. d 20w50 does stick d gear an i does f up an u does have 2 change it. no ppl may no dis aready but for those who dont take notice.

i use mobil 5w50 and everything works perfect.

yeh any ting 10w an lower d 20 2 thick an does stick d gear.

what about mobil 10/30?
what is the best for the 2zzge?

gear? or you mean cam profiling? An example of why it's important to use manufacturer recommended oil...

Dont see too may people getting problems while using the 5w50 or 15w50 or 10w40 or 15w40.

And why necessarily castrol and which kind? semi-syn.....full syn.....gtx?

I've used all the above weights and have seen no vvti problems.

Im on 10w30 now...but its not because of any problems with the other weights before.

well i started workin toyota so dey was telin me y an ting nah so i say ok. dey does use 10w30 castrol semi syn an full syn. if ppl wah use mobile dey does bring it wit dem. 10w30 is d safest one so dat is y dey does use it. any product is gud. 2 save in d long run i wud say use d 10w30 cuz a genuine gear is plenty money.

you work toyota?

I'm still confused about what gear...are you referring to cam gears?

yes d cam gears. d vvti controller cam gear. d intake cam.

Hey EVERYBODY ..... TurboHead wuking Toyotaaaaaa......... good inside info we should be getting right?

but seriously, you will be willing to get info from the Manfacuture about our Toyotas' right?

i using 10w50 since i have my car it on 85k now and no vvt-i problems....i switch to redline 40 but not cause of problems i just trying it out over de mobil 1

turbohead wrote:never use 20w50 in ur vvti engine. use d castrol 10w30. d 20w50 does stick d gear an i does f up an u does have 2 change it. no ppl may no dis aready but for those who dont take notice.

Turbohead, So it can't be serviced/ opened and cleaned or anything to free it ?

What's approx. cost for 4AGE BT gear then ?

ah ha ha^^^ meh padna show meh how 2 do it but how we go make money dog. it simple but u ha 2 no wat u doin other wise it go fleck up. if u wanna no if it stick take off ur tappet cover an see on d gear dere is 2 dots if dey line up den d gear stick. it suppose 2 be either advance or retard. an wen dey say 10w50 d 50 stands 4 winter conditions an guess wat we doh ha winter so it is d same oil as 10w30. an as i said castrol is d brand of toyota so dat y dey use castrol blend an full syn. any time u wah change d gear ah go link u up.

i runnin royal purple

turbohead wrote:if u wanna no if it stick take off ur tappet cover an see on d gear dere is 2 dots if dey line up den d gear stick. it suppose 2 be either advance or retard.

umm..in your own words (preferably with proper english and punctuation) can you explain TDC to me? Also, explain why the dots will be lined up rather than possibly off if it's stuck...wouldn't it "stick" in a random position according to what you said?

turbohead wrote:an wen dey say 10w50 d 50 stands 4 winter conditions an guess wat we doh ha winter so it is d same oil as 10w30.

hmmmmm.........some of what u wrote there turbohead is not matching up with the workshop manual.

You're saying that if the marking dots on the exhaust and intake camshaft sprocket line up then the camshaft timing gear is stuck. Why then in the workshop manual when they outline the procedure to check for timing gear assembly operations they say make SURE that the dots on the two camshaft sprockets are aligned, before you remove the camshafts and the same for re-installing the camshafts.

The timing gear advances and retards between the sprocket and the camshaft...not before so you wouldnt be able to tell if the cams were at advance or retards just by looking at those two alignment spots. If those two dont align you have more serious problems like a broken cam sprocket tooth or a loose timing chain.

The ACTUAL mehtod for checking operation of the timing cam assembly is to remove the assembly completely..........tape the oil inputs for the advance and retard sides of the assembly.....break one each of the advance and retard side taped ends and insert air pressure into these two holes with airlines at 150 kPa. The manual procedure will check full retard, full advance and the locking mechanism.

Added to this....i think weight of oil may affect how effective or how quickly the vvti works....since this is based on an oil pressure application to the cam timing assembly, but i doubt this would cause it to fail entirely.

Now this is from the 1zz-fe workshop manual.....but as i recall the vvt-i mechanism is the same in the 1nz-fe.

seanf3000 wrote:hmmmmm.........some of what u wrote there turbohead is not matching up with the workshop manual.

You're saying that if the marking dots on the exhaust and intake camshaft sprocket line up then the camshaft timing gear is stuck. Why then in the workshop manual when they outline the procedure to check for timing gear assembly operations they say make SURE that the dots on the two camshaft sprockets are aligned, before you remove the camshafts and the same for re-installing the camshafts.

exactly!!!!!!

Added to this....i think weight of oil may affect how effective or how quickly the vvti works....since this is based on an oil pressure application to the cam timing assembly, but i doubt this would cause it to fail entirely.

thank you!

turbohead, what exactly do you do in TTTL..and are you at the north or south branch?

Amsoil - #1 rated oil - fully syn

i trainin in d south branch an d supervisior was explainin 2 me wat does happen 2 it. d vvti gear which is d intake cam gear sticks wen u use 20w50 cuz d body of d oil 2 heavy an its viscosity 2 high an it does sludge d gear. d oil pressure of d engine serves as d operator of dis vvti. d gear either advances or retards jus like if u advance or retard a distributor. so d gear is always offset an d two dots dont align. if by chance d gear is sludged d two dots on d gear will align an wont move. i not talkin bout notin wit d exhaust cam. timin has notin 2 do wit if dis gear sticks. it doesnt affect ur timin at all. seanf3000 u tinkin on a whole new level. if u have a vvi corolla take of d tapet cover an watch d vvti controller gear an u will see 2 dots on it an dey will either be in d advance or retard position.


tdc means top dead centre.. it is so dat u will get d timin of d engine before disassembly. it deals wit no 1 piston being on d begining of power stroke wit both valves closed an all timin marks should line up . all terms like tdc, bdc, btdc, atdc, bbdc, abdc. deals wit no 1 piston an its position in d engine. on ur crankshaft puley dere suppose 2 be reading like 10 5 an 0. 10 an 5 means 10 an 5 degrees b4 tdc. it rell simple d hard part is maintaining dis timin in order 2 assemble dat is d hard part 4 a beginner like me on dese cars. one mistake an dats a valve borin through a piston. lol. so i have 2 perfect it as yet.

TTTL told me on many occasions that a 50 body oil is safe to use....when i used to service my car there i even carried my own 5w50 Mobil 1 oil for them to use..i would think if that oil damages the engine they would tell me about it since it voids the warranty....car on 85k and no probs what so ever...never seen this problem documented anywhere b4

You talking about two dots on the INTAKE TIMING ASSEMBLY alone, or one on each of the intake and exhaust cam sprockets?

If its the later.......Well I dunno how that makes sense since the vvti advance and retard on the intake timing assembly takes place after the sprocket. The sprocket itself is not advanced. The timing assembly handles the advancing of the cams....so the sprocket itself retains its circular velocity and position. All the advancing and timing takes place rear of the sprocket.....so i dunno how the two alignment dots supposed to move away from each other.

Maybe its a different system for the 1nz, but the two car sprocket dots are supposed to line up all the time. How else would the workshop CD tell you to turn the camshaft until the notch on the pulley lines up with the 0 degree mark and the two dots on the cam sprockets line up. If they are always on retard or advance and working according to how you say.....then they would most of the time never line up. And thus you would never be able to remove the cams for inspection.

The workshop procedure makes perfect sense to me that those two sprocket dots are supposed to line up. This is normal procedure for any car. I havent heard of any application where those two are not supposed to line up normally. Thats what they're there for the detect sprocket and chain misalignment.

I understand the cause of heavy oil to not cause as well an operation of the vvti controller. This is a reason that Vtec owners prefer lighter oil. But I still say that i doubt it will cause major malfunction of the unit. Honda lumps are even more finicky about this and i've heard of heavier oil causing some shifts in VTEC engagement, but never failure of the units. Also to completely lock the vvti unit......there better be some loctite in that oil.

Where hook.......he have experience in this.

turbohead......can you point out which dots you are talking about in the picture below?

am, i fine d mobil 1 5w50 wokkin good. I wouldnt change it.

any oil like 10w30 an 5w50 will wuk. a thin oil is needed. sean d two dots are on d intake cam. it is not shown dere on dat pic . look at dis u might understand. mobil is a very gud oil 2 use 2. ppl supply mobil if dey wanna go full syn in dere car. once u use d correct oil u will never encounter dis problem, but u no it ha sum harden ppl out dey. an is any vvti engine here eh ppl. not only corolla.

Ah haaaa.....i see. Well from the schematics that should be indicators for the assembly retard and advance as you said. Theres a locking pin in the assembly as well, so might be that its locked when the two dots aligned. Makes sense.

1zz-fe engine doesnt have the two dots on the advance so it must be something thats on the 1nz-fe engines.

Cool.....understood!

BTW......10w30 Amsoil working fine in my car right now.

yes
castrol is jus d brand of oil for toyota dat is wat we does use. hence d castrol corolla racin car.

Why would you use 20W-50 in Trinidad is besides me. I use 5W-40 and 10W-30 here in NYC in my VVTi engine. anything heavier is not reall recommended by Toyota.

The VVTi is only present on Intake Cam in my motor. IF you want to check your VVTi functionality. turn your motor to TDC. (Second timing mark on the crank pulley) remove your upper cam cover. Remove the VVTi oil feed line and union bolt to relieve oil pressure from your I-1 Cam cover and catch oil so it does not drip all over. At TDC there are timing notches on both cam gears. If both timing marks (arrows) are not pointing to the notches in the rear timing cover where they suppose to be you got a small issue. If the Intake Cam only is off you got bigger issues. Remove timing belt, and turn the VVTi intake Cam gear as far clockwise as you can (you may want to turb it back and forth to loosen anything stuck - if it is stuck) Finish by turning it all the way clockwise without disturbing the camshaft. when the VVTi cam gear hits the stop point... make note of the timing mark. if its off. keep the VVTi cm gear turned all the way clockwise and now you have to rotate the camshaft counter clockwise to get the line up notches on the cam gear to match the cam cover.

I dont know if that makes any sense.... but thats how I check it when I build VVTi 2JZ engines.

my gear box sticking! grateing! 20V,,i cant shift wen i want! i hav to slow down an then shift!!, i use castrol something, i cant remember, i change d cables, shifter,change d clutch cylinder, adjust d clutch about 10 times, take down d box, open it up, its clean an all d parts good, clutch an p plate good, so i give up now!! i running it like that for about a year now!! when i first installed it , it was working good, but whatever! i fed up! f that!