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aye aye.......the man say he RVR had a broken TPS, running low boost, an plus it had a boost leak
shinakuma wrote:Wat qtr mile times do u make wit ur Starlet Link ?
You need to relocate the filter to the front where there is ample cold air, if you have a filter (open filter) in the engine bay then it will get very bad heat soak. The stock inlet track also goes right over the manifold and is very restrictive so you need to junk this to get any good results. Otherwise use the stock air box with panel filter that already has a cold air feed.
The inlet track on stock cars is fine, Toyota didn't need to make it any better but when pushing the boundaries on a hybrid you need to junk it. We also sell relocation kits.
Have a read of this list, no manufactures mentioned to be as impartial as possible:
Here you go, this is a basic overview on how to get a well balanced 200hp setup with brakes and chassis to match:
• Hybrid CT9
• Free Flow Mild Steel Manifold
• Wrap Manifold/Decat in Heat Wrap
• Decat
• Cat Back system 2.5inch
The car is now expelling gases more efficiently.
• Relocated Air Filter to front bumper
• Reduce Intake length
• Heat Reflective tape for Inlet Track
Car is now breathing more efficiently
• Raise the Rear of the Bonnet with washers
• Front Mounted Intercooler (wrap throttle body side pipes with heat reflective material)
• Uprated Thermostat
• Rad Cap
• Consider better radiator and breather/header tank if planning on track days
• Consider Oil Cooler WITH thermostat if planning on track days
Car is now cooling more efficiently
• New Spark Plugs (consider colder grades 7,8)
• New HT leads
• Inspect Dizzy/Cap/Rotor
Ignition system now works
• Uprated Fuel Pump
• Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit
• Engine Management/Piggy Back/Fuel Controller (depends on needs)
• Rolling Road Session
Car now fuelling adequately
• Uprated clutch with flywheel is poss
• Quickshift Kit
• LSD if poss
Car can now handle power and you can shift quicker
This should net you around 180bhp - 200bhp on 18 psi max. This then leaves the brakes and chassis which will need to be sorted to cope with the power. I would recommend at a min:
• Uprated Front Disks
• Uprated Pads
• New OEM Rear Pads
• Braided Brake Lines
• Cusco BMCS
• Dot 5.1 Toyota Fluid (bleed dry and refill)
You can now stop!
• Coilovers / Fixed height shocks with springs
• Front and Rear Strut Braces
• Panhard Rod
• Lower Arm Bar
• Anitlift kit
• Front and Rear ARB's Uprated
• Check and replace worn bushes
• Good tires
• Full Geometry setup on 4 wheel alignment system (Camber, Toe, Castor, Corner Weights etc)
Power to ground greatly improved.
That’s a basic list of what we recommend, obviously there are many more parts that will net you a good handling car that can stop with power to match but that should give you a good idea on where to take her pending needs. You don't need to go for everything all at once but it's a good long term plan, take each step at a time.
This doesn't take into account basic servicing which is a must, make the most out of what you have no point adding mods until the car is up to scratch.
reddo_tuner wrote:Taken from toyotagtturbo.comYou need to relocate the filter to the front where there is ample cold air, if you have a filter (open filter) in the engine bay then it will get very bad heat soak. The stock inlet track also goes right over the manifold and is very restrictive so you need to junk this to get any good results. Otherwise use the stock air box with panel filter that already has a cold air feed.
The inlet track on stock cars is fine, Toyota didn't need to make it any better but when pushing the boundaries on a hybrid you need to junk it. We also sell relocation kits.
Have a read of this list, no manufactures mentioned to be as impartial as possible:
Here you go, this is a basic overview on how to get a well balanced 200hp setup with brakes and chassis to match:
• Hybrid CT9
• Free Flow Mild Steel Manifold
• Wrap Manifold/Decat in Heat Wrap
• Decat
• Cat Back system 2.5inch
The car is now expelling gases more efficiently.
• Relocated Air Filter to front bumper
• Reduce Intake length
• Heat Reflective tape for Inlet Track
Car is now breathing more efficiently
• Raise the Rear of the Bonnet with washers
• Front Mounted Intercooler (wrap throttle body side pipes with heat reflective material)
• Uprated Thermostat
• Rad Cap
• Consider better radiator and breather/header tank if planning on track days
• Consider Oil Cooler WITH thermostat if planning on track days
Car is now cooling more efficiently
• New Spark Plugs (consider colder grades 7,8)
• New HT leads
• Inspect Dizzy/Cap/Rotor
Ignition system now works
• Uprated Fuel Pump
• Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit
• Engine Management/Piggy Back/Fuel Controller (depends on needs)
• Rolling Road Session
Car now fuelling adequately
• Uprated clutch with flywheel is poss
• Quickshift Kit
• LSD if poss
Car can now handle power and you can shift quicker
This should net you around 180bhp - 200bhp on 18 psi max. This then leaves the brakes and chassis which will need to be sorted to cope with the power. I would recommend at a min:
• Uprated Front Disks
• Uprated Pads
• New OEM Rear Pads
• Braided Brake Lines
• Cusco BMCS
• Dot 5.1 Toyota Fluid (bleed dry and refill)
You can now stop!
• Coilovers / Fixed height shocks with springs
• Front and Rear Strut Braces
• Panhard Rod
• Lower Arm Bar
• Anitlift kit
• Front and Rear ARB's Uprated
• Check and replace worn bushes
• Good tires
• Full Geometry setup on 4 wheel alignment system (Camber, Toe, Castor, Corner Weights etc)
Power to ground greatly improved.
That’s a basic list of what we recommend, obviously there are many more parts that will net you a good handling car that can stop with power to match but that should give you a good idea on where to take her pending needs. You don't need to go for everything all at once but it's a good long term plan, take each step at a time.
This doesn't take into account basic servicing which is a must, make the most out of what you have no point adding mods until the car is up to scratch.
hardcoreep wrote:One of the questions I get often from GT Turbo is "how much boost can I run?" This has long led me to believe that most on this site don't understand how a turbocharger works. The comment that a td05-16g can't produce 300whp, further confirms the level of understanding of many members. These are the same people who cant believe a CT9 can't make X amount of power.
hardcoreep wrote:Boost doesn't destroy internals, detonation is a bigger engine killer than anything. You can run as much boost as you like, as long you accept the fact that if you detonate, the motor will go bang in an instant.
AllTrac wrote:i think a172 and hayden should team up and open a garage, they are very knowledge in auto tuning and they depart their knowledge willingly. It should be called
"sam & frodo tuning"
or
"shire motorsports"
how about:
"tiptoe auto" ?
finally:
"1greng 2horn racing"
any one should fit nicely, either way my engine rebuild done book with allyuh
Everybody here know the starlet it was on tuner a while back for sale. His post said his car was doing something like 180whp i stand corrected but he didnt make 200whp for sure. The only way i can see you making 300whp+ on the dyno is if you put yuh mouth on the dyno and run dat. 
Tipster wrote:haydn28, I am hoping that the engine that is in your car is not the same as in d pics you post cause i saw a black starlet beat you going and coming over the weekend
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