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The comprehensive 4age thread

It's all about 4AGE, NZE, 3SGTE, 1JZ, 2JZ etc.

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pablo_tt
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Postby pablo_tt » April 1st, 2010, 7:26 pm

Thanks for the info eliteauto!

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psycostud666
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Postby psycostud666 » April 2nd, 2010, 12:15 am

How do I know when to change the timing belt on my engine?

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Postby clone101 » April 2nd, 2010, 2:20 am

Take off the cover and check it .

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Postby psycostud666 » April 2nd, 2010, 1:24 pm

Well I meam when the cover is off what signs should I look for that the belt needs changing?

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Postby clone101 » April 3rd, 2010, 7:43 am

IF the belt came with the engine 9 out of 10 time the previous owner did not change it. Look at the teeth good sometime the belt does not burst but the teeth strip from the belt,change it better to be safe ST 20vaulve 111 teeth & buy ah good brand :idea:

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Postby Hook » April 3rd, 2010, 8:56 am

I'm realizing that 2nrs are either unwilling or unable to properly explain themselves to newbies... "Take off the cover and check it" without explaining what to look for..."buy ah good brand" without suggesting what brands to look for and which to stay away from.

Missing teeth are a sign of extremely advanced wear. But sometimes all teeth could be intact and the spaces between them may be cracked, in which case, you have to bend the belt in the opposite direction (hence having to take it out first) to see that.

psycostud666, if you never changed the belt and you're concerned about it's condition, then change it and ease your mind. Don't bother checking, just change it. Look for good brands like Gates and Sun.
Bear in mind that a timing belt should last about 100,000km, so if u plan on keeping the car that long (even if you don't it's good for the new potential owner to see the change interval..you would've like to see it yourself when you bought it, right?), put a service change sticker somewhere or keep it in a notepad or something the mileage on the odometer when you changed it.
Matter of fact, keep a detailed service history for information sake.

Changing the belt is easy, but it could get a tad technical and labour intensive if you never dig up in a car before. You hafta take off accessory belts, unbolt the main pulley, unbolt the engine mount, take off the rest of the cover, set to TDC, loosen tensioner, line up all timing marks, powder up de belt, put it on, re-tension it and then put back everything in reverse order. Sounds easy, but for a first-timer, it can be a daunting task...esp when you consider it may cost u if u do it wrong (I've heard the silvertops are non-interference, but I'm not willing to find out).
Best you let an experienced mechanic do it while u look on, asking questions etc.
Get a new tensioner and have it ready for the mechanic to change it one time while he has everything open.

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Postby psycostud666 » April 3rd, 2010, 10:08 am

Hook, Thats what i talkin bout, so i just got to buy a belt and tensioner, rather than pull off cover to check, i shud just change the belt one time with a lil more effort.

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Postby psycostud666 » April 3rd, 2010, 6:59 pm

Whats the difference with these starters, automatic and manual?

I wanna make my manual car auto for the wife so the info would be good.

The guy who gave me the tranny has the starter, wanna know if to take it also.

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ae 80

Postby cooldude » April 8th, 2010, 10:05 pm

Still hunting for parts for this old car like more interior parts especially new dash .. any

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Postby Zeriam » April 9th, 2010, 12:45 am

any anything from the ae92-ae111 will fit in the ae80.i been thinking about doing that

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help - 20v ST

Postby keepwalking » April 11th, 2010, 3:24 pm

recently brought an AE100 with a silver top, and it idling to high
can someone recommend a good mechanic to help,

i took the car to my usual guy and he seems not to no what he doing, and have me spending money with no results

the idle control unit was serviced,

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Postby eliteauto » April 11th, 2010, 3:27 pm

what is too high? and there are several 20V threads here why not take a search before starting a new one?

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Postby josh.dookie » April 13th, 2010, 2:09 pm

^^^ x2 read the 20v cheds, mine idles @ around 1100 rpm, waz ur prob?

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Postby Hook » April 13th, 2010, 5:27 pm

^^^ dude, 1100rpm IS too high :lol:

It's supposed to idle at ~850rpm at Normal Operating Temperature...mine does

keepwalking, the other 20V threads have troubleshooting information, how to read your own error codes, how to check for vacuum leaks and how to service your ISCV (Idle Speed Control Valve)...if u can sift through the mess

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Postby josh.dookie » April 13th, 2010, 5:31 pm

Hook, I know dat, but lately I have embraced the "ent it wukkin" philosphy lolz... Yeah but how high is wat he din state..!

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Hook
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Postby Hook » April 13th, 2010, 5:39 pm

lol @ "ent it wukkin"...f'real eh...tings coulda worse

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Postby josh.dookie » April 13th, 2010, 6:33 pm

yeah Hook dem cheds in a real mess, i go deal wit d idlin and all my other isues soon man, work will slow down soon, an the semester almost done so soon! Maybe i'll have time to sift tru d 20v cheds as well.!

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Postby Aforauto » April 21st, 2010, 11:25 pm

my 20v st in a toyota marino like it lock, anybody kno a good mech to check dis an maybe estimate price to change it...?

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Postby clone101 » April 21st, 2010, 11:43 pm

Check your PM :idea:

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Zeriam
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Postby Zeriam » April 22nd, 2010, 7:47 am

location.

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Postby keepwalking » April 22nd, 2010, 8:30 pm

just an update, service ISCV, change ISCV, change all senors on the head(bought a head)
check for vacuum leak, check TPS

only thing now is to check the wiring, :shock:

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Zeriam
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Postby Zeriam » April 22nd, 2010, 9:13 pm

do u have a thermostat?

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Postby keepwalking » April 25th, 2010, 9:45 am

Yes

this is a local corolla, with a conversion to 20V,
It looking like the wiring was done poorly by the previous owner'

When i thinking small thing, just an idling problem
Think i go change out this engine an put in a normal 16V

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Postby Zeriam » April 25th, 2010, 10:08 am

keepwalking,yeah do dat 20v is trouble and money till u get it working good then u'll be happy.

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Hook
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Postby Hook » April 26th, 2010, 9:47 am

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Now that's funny. You wouldn't believe how easy and inexpensive some problems are to solve with the help of a CEL.
I've a thread here on CEL installation and diagnostic code reading for 20V engines as well as transmission error codes and how to read them.

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Postby Terran » April 26th, 2010, 11:38 am

1100 rpm is indeed too high. I have a blacktop, and though I don't expect there to be any gap between the performance of the two engines, mine idles between 650rpm and 800rpm - depends on whether air condition is used and the temperature outside. This, I consider, to be normal.

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Re: The comprehensive 4age thread

Postby eliteauto » May 12th, 2010, 10:05 am

I've merged a few of the 20V threads on the forum to make it easier for users to contribute and do research, I hope this deters the making of new threads to cover old topics

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Re: The comprehensive 4age thread

Postby josh.dookie » May 12th, 2010, 10:52 am

ok i checked back it idles @ 1000 rpm wen cold, den goes down to around 800 wen hot and drops a liitle wit AC..
Bess Idea here Mr. Moderator, Elieauto sir!

turboturtle
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Who using an ACT Clutch disc on a 4age 20v -Part numbers pls

Postby turboturtle » May 18th, 2010, 12:20 pm

Ok for allyuh who using an ACT clutch on their 20v whether is Organic or Copper buss some part numbers nah.

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Re: The comprehensive 4age thread

Postby Zeriam » May 27th, 2010, 8:01 am

the act clutch sucks imho didnt like it and didnt last long to the pressure.

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