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88sins wrote:Depends on what you have adding load to the electrical system as altec mentioned. Lights, ac, even your radiator fans will draw and reduce the total power available to your amp. Get a clamp meter that can read DC amps, and check the power being delivered at the amp power input for a better idea of what's going on.
Also, for maximum power, you could have the run the amplifier power cable connected directly to the alternator, but that may cause a bit less power to get to your battery, engine and other accessories whiletl the systemis is playing on full blast. Not something I advise you do on your own or on a daily driver, but it can be done.
sMASH wrote:fras wrote:On a vehicle with a 140 amp alternator, approximately how many amps would be available for audio at idle?
Vehicle is diesel btw!
What vehicle u put the tiida alternator in?
sMASH wrote:i really cant say. is if u could link up wiht some one with a clip on ammeter, to directly check current draw, while all ur typical current drawers are on, i.e. headlight, ac(the fan comes on).
i thought was an older vehicle and would guestimate a 40a was used by the vehicle. the newer ones, i cant say.
the best option is to change out to an after market alternater which is over 2k extra starting. the second best option is to add a second/third battery to just to hold out for the lil 5mins ur going to jam full tilt every so often, and allow a lil recharge time before u switch off.
the more experienced installers would better guide, but imo, a 2krms system woudl be easier on the batteries and alternators with more capacity than that 55ah. the less u cycle ur battery the longer it will last, and the less strain on ur alternator too, which can also damage if u keep making it recharge a very low voltage battery.
SR wrote:What are the fuse rating on the new amp and what load will each channel see?
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