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ur joking right?SR wrote:28
altec wrote:Depends on the current draw, which depends on how much electrical stuff you have running eg headlights. Electrician can measure that for you easy.
88sins wrote:Depends on what you have adding load to the electrical system as altec mentioned. Lights, ac, even your radiator fans will draw and reduce the total power available to your amp. Get a clamp meter that can read DC amps, and check the power being delivered at the amp power input for a better idea of what's going on.
Also, for maximum power, you could have the run the amplifier power cable connected directly to the alternator, but that may cause a bit less power to get to your battery, engine and other accessories whiletl the systemis is playing on full blast. Not something I advise you do on your own or on a daily driver, but it can be done.
fras wrote:On a vehicle with a 140 amp alternator, approximately how many amps would be available for audio at idle?
Vehicle is diesel btw!
sMASH wrote:fras wrote:On a vehicle with a 140 amp alternator, approximately how many amps would be available for audio at idle?
Vehicle is diesel btw!
What vehicle u put the tiida alternator in?
sMASH wrote:i really cant say. is if u could link up wiht some one with a clip on ammeter, to directly check current draw, while all ur typical current drawers are on, i.e. headlight, ac(the fan comes on).
i thought was an older vehicle and would guestimate a 40a was used by the vehicle. the newer ones, i cant say.
the best option is to change out to an after market alternater which is over 2k extra starting. the second best option is to add a second/third battery to just to hold out for the lil 5mins ur going to jam full tilt every so often, and allow a lil recharge time before u switch off.
the more experienced installers would better guide, but imo, a 2krms system woudl be easier on the batteries and alternators with more capacity than that 55ah. the less u cycle ur battery the longer it will last, and the less strain on ur alternator too, which can also damage if u keep making it recharge a very low voltage battery.
SR wrote:What are the fuse rating on the new amp and what load will each channel see?
Rovin wrote:u can average\calculate all u want but true test is when u install everything & run it ...
Had that issue.Turned out to be an ac fan sensor.These issues can be weird afJerry84 wrote:My 140 amp alternator is charging my red top Optima but on accelerating I'm noticing a drop in voltage for 13.8 to 12.4 and sometimes 11.8, no music being played. Also noticed that my battery light is blinking when accelerating. Serviced the alternator and same issue. Battery is less than a year old. What could be the possible causes?
Could it also be that I should check another reputable electrician to recheck the alternator? Reason I ask this is because I put a multimeter on the discharge line to the battery and only getting 12.6 volts at idle when in theory I'm supposed to be getting 14volts propertimelapse wrote:Had that issue.Turned out to be an ac fan sensor.These issues can be weird afJerry84 wrote:My 140 amp alternator is charging my red top Optima but on accelerating I'm noticing a drop in voltage for 13.8 to 12.4 and sometimes 11.8, no music being played. Also noticed that my battery light is blinking when accelerating. Serviced the alternator and same issue. Battery is less than a year old. What could be the possible causes?
Check Voltage regulatorJerry84 wrote:Could it also be that I should check another reputable electrician to recheck the alternator? Reason I ask this is because I put a multimeter on the discharge line to the battery and only getting 12.6 volts at idle when in theory I'm supposed to be getting 14volts propertimelapse wrote:Had that issue.Turned out to be an ac fan sensor.These issues can be weird afJerry84 wrote:My 140 amp alternator is charging my red top Optima but on accelerating I'm noticing a drop in voltage for 13.8 to 12.4 and sometimes 11.8, no music being played. Also noticed that my battery light is blinking when accelerating. Serviced the alternator and same issue. Battery is less than a year old. What could be the possible causes?
Suggestions welcomed
Did this already bro.Jeremy09 wrote:I think with that 140amp alt,a good agm bat and a big 3 upgrade ur safe to handle about 1500-1600 real rms.
Jerry84 wrote:My 140 amp alternator is charging my red top Optima but on accelerating I'm noticing a drop in voltage for 13.8 to 12.4 and sometimes 11.8, no music being played. Also noticed that my battery light is blinking when accelerating. Serviced the alternator and same issue. Battery is less than a year old. What could be the possible causes?
speedmelter wrote:Jerry84 wrote:My 140 amp alternator is charging my red top Optima but on accelerating I'm noticing a drop in voltage for 13.8 to 12.4 and sometimes 11.8, no music being played. Also noticed that my battery light is blinking when accelerating. Serviced the alternator and same issue. Battery is less than a year old. What could be the possible causes?
The battery most likely is bad. Check grounds from engine to battery and engine to chassis as well.
But that battery is pure failure, especially if from price M.
A faulty battery will not change the output of the alternator at increasing RPMs.speedmelter wrote:speedmelter wrote:Jerry84 wrote:My 140 amp alternator is charging my red top Optima but on accelerating I'm noticing a drop in voltage for 13.8 to 12.4 and sometimes 11.8, no music being played. Also noticed that my battery light is blinking when accelerating. Serviced the alternator and same issue. Battery is less than a year old. What could be the possible causes?
The battery most likely is bad. Check grounds from engine to battery and engine to chassis as well.
But that battery is pure failure, especially if from price M.
Do a load test on the battery as well
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