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*KRONIK* wrote:Fellaz
This not audio related
But it falls in the category
I have a relay box to wire up (more like wire- in)
Its pre-wired, so i just need a current and ground supply.
Input is 8ga
But the problem i gonna face is that all the relays and fused outputs gonna be hot.
How can i wire this in to have it ignition switched?
adnj wrote:8 ga handles about 40 amps so you will be able to pass 30 to 40 amps. You need a Bosch mini relay 30 amp normally open and base or similar. The relay sits outside of your block and will switch power.
Run a cable from your b+ terminal with a 30 amp inline fuse near the source. Connect this battery power to terminal 30. Run terminal 87 to your relay block positive terminal.
Connect keypower to terminal 86. Connect terminal 85 to ground.
Run your 8 ga ground to a clean point in the chassis.
Run a busbar, short connector or cable-Y between the two power input terminals, if necessary.
randolphinshan wrote:*KRONIK* wrote:Fellaz
This not audio related
But it falls in the category
I have a relay box to wire up (more like wire- in)
Its pre-wired, so i just need a current and ground supply.
Input is 8ga
But the problem i gonna face is that all the relays and fused outputs gonna be hot.
How can i wire this in to have it ignition switched?
Ras pay your money and go by a good electrician nah, you really want to risk getting electrocuted or burning down your vehicle ?
pjfred wrote:Have you really ever noticed that your car ignition switch handles the highest power transfer in a non hybrid vehicle continuously.
100% duty cycle.
Most electronic switching devices within a reasonable price range wont exist because you will need a 100% duty rating.
You need to install your relay box as is taking supply direct from battery with proper fuse and holder for protection closest to the battery.
Bolt that ground closest to box.
Any other wiring will result in failure especially in 12 VDC systems.
Yesadnj wrote:That Stinger is a normally open relay rates at about 200 amps. There's no reason that you cannot use it.
If your fuse/relay block is being set up where each relay is passing 30 amps, you should not switch power to the relay block. You should wire the the block directly to B+ with a fusible link or inline mega fuse on the supply. You then should be switching each circuit relay on the block separately.
You could choose to wire every relay for keypower activation.
I believe this is what pjfred was trying to say.
It seems that you are wiring a primary relay box. I believe that I misunderstood your intended use. Many 30A relays on the road only control one or two amps.*KRONIK* wrote:Yesadnj wrote:That Stinger is a normally open relay rates at about 200 amps. There's no reason that you cannot use it.
If your fuse/relay block is being set up where each relay is passing 30 amps, you should not switch power to the relay block. You should wire the the block directly to B+ with a fusible link or inline mega fuse on the supply. You then should be switching each circuit relay on the block separately.
You could choose to wire every relay for keypower activation.
I believe this is what pjfred was trying to say.
This is what i plan to do
Battery to 100A breaker
Breaker to 80A fuse (this is the input rated fuse recommended by manufacturer)
Fuse to stinger relay (wired/triggered seperately)
Relay to box input. With a chassis ground.
The box has seperate relay light guage inputs/trigger for switches with a heavier guage output for devices.
pjfred wrote:Price that stinger relay
Yeaadnj wrote:It seems that you are wiring a primary relay box. I believe that I misunderstood your intended use. Many 30A relays on the road only control one or two amps.*KRONIK* wrote:Yesadnj wrote:That Stinger is a normally open relay rates at about 200 amps. There's no reason that you cannot use it.
If your fuse/relay block is being set up where each relay is passing 30 amps, you should not switch power to the relay block. You should wire the the block directly to B+ with a fusible link or inline mega fuse on the supply. You then should be switching each circuit relay on the block separately.
You could choose to wire every relay for keypower activation.
I believe this is what pjfred was trying to say.
This is what i plan to do
Battery to 100A breaker
Breaker to 80A fuse (this is the input rated fuse recommended by manufacturer)
Fuse to stinger relay (wired/triggered seperately)
Relay to box input. With a chassis ground.
The box has seperate relay light guage inputs/trigger for switches with a heavier guage output for devices.
You probably already have the correct supply and ground cable sizes then.
As an aside, your Stinger is based on the Ford Motorcraft starter motor relay that was used for more than 60 years. Those tended to be very reliable.
adnj wrote:It seems that you are wiring a primary relay box. Many 30A relays on the road only control one or two amps. I believe that I misunderstood your intended use.*KRONIK* wrote:Yesadnj wrote:That Stinger is a normally open relay rates at about 200 amps. There's no reason that you cannot use it.
If your fuse/relay block is being set up where each relay is passing 30 amps, you should not switch power to the relay block. You should wire the the block directly to B+ with a fusible link or inline mega fuse on the supply. You then should be switching each circuit relay on the block separately.
You could choose to wire every relay for keypower activation.
I believe this is what pjfred was trying to say.
This is what i plan to do
Battery to 100A breaker
Breaker to 80A fuse (this is the input rated fuse recommended by manufacturer)
Fuse to stinger relay (wired/triggered seperately)
Relay to box input. With a chassis ground.
The box has seperate relay light guage inputs/trigger for switches with a heavier guage output for devices.
As an aside, your Stinger is based on the Ford Motorcraft starter motor relay that was used for more than 60 years.
adnj wrote:You don't have any critical circuits on the relay so you should be fine, I think. I would like to see a photo after it's all wired up.
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