**Thanks all**PLEASE DELETE**

Cunupia_soundz · Postby **Cunupia_soundz** » June 12th, 2015, 11:24 pm

some people generally dont like brazillian amps and rate them down...the truth is u do need a serious electrical system to power these amps and they are sensitive to voltage drops...low voltage can damage...but once you have enough current, they will give u crazy power...and clean power too...i have used 3 taramps mono and none have failed me...if u are considering entering for competition, imo the dd m4 may limit your system...never used it but i can personally vouch for taramps... really good value for your money

Safe & Sound Systems Ltd · Postby **Safe & Sound Systems Ltd** » June 13th, 2015, 10:07 pm

If all your system requires is the rms power of the DD (3200rms@12v) and your electrical system can only support that level of power, then get the DD or any other Korean amplifier with a similar board layout for that matter e.g. AB, Shok, B2 etc.

If you're wiring to the same ohm load which would be 1 ohm nominal, and your electrical system can support it, the Taramp's would be double if not slightly more power.

If they are the same price, it depends on what you want for the money you're spending:

Either raw high power(more than double the rms power for the same price) or overbuilt to be "dummy proof".

Its like purchasing a hummer for daily driving. You can get the overbuilt car if you are afraid of being in a wreck all the time or buy something more versatile that gives more power in your hand when you want it as long as you know how to drive smart.....

C33_RB20DET · Postby **C33_RB20DET** » June 13th, 2015, 10:17 pm

Safe & Sound Systems Ltd wrote:If all your system requires is the rms power of the DD (3200rms@12v) and your electrical system can only support that level of power, then get the DD or any other Korean amplifier with a similar board layout for that matter e.g. AB, Shok, B2 etc.

If you're wiring to the same ohm load which would be 1 ohm nominal, and your electrical system can support it, the Taramp's would be double if not slightly more power.

If they are the same price, it depends on what you want for the money you're spending:

Either raw high power(more than double the rms power for the same price) or overbuilt to be "dummy proof".

Its like purchasing a hummer for daily driving. You can get the overbuilt car if you are afraid of being in a wreck all the time or buy something more versatile that gives more power in your hand when you want it as long as you know how to drive smart.....

Excellent opinion...My electrical system is pretty small just 2 VMAX CT1500 , 1 VMAX CT2500 and a Yellow top Optima with a 140A alternator for now...will soon be upgrading the alternator to a 320A.. Also all ground and power wires are Stinger 1/0 gauge.

Would also like to know seeing that you have experience and are familiar with the Taramps, have you or anyone you know actually clamped them or dyno them to see what they actually make at 12V? I ask this I have no intention of having a separate 14V or 16V bank. I prefer to stick with a 12V system.

C33_RB20DET · Postby **C33_RB20DET** » June 18th, 2015, 1:31 pm

bump..

C33_RB20DET · Postby **C33_RB20DET** » June 23rd, 2015, 4:17 pm

top..

Rodneys Audio · Postby **Rodneys Audio** » June 24th, 2015, 12:44 am

I must say the Korean built of amplifier is the better way to go it could be DD American Bass B2 Audio DC Audio. They are all great amplifiers. If i was you i would buy a dummy proof amp cause it is the safest thing to do. I personally have used all the amps stated and they are all good application is the key and current.

Hope you make the right choice for your build....

Safe & Sound Systems Ltd · Postby **Safe & Sound Systems Ltd** » July 2nd, 2015, 2:58 pm

C33_RB20DET wrote:
Safe & Sound Systems Ltd wrote:If all your system requires is the rms power of the DD (3200rms@12v) and your electrical system can only support that level of power, then get the DD or any other Korean amplifier with a similar board layout for that matter e.g. AB, Shok, B2 etc.

If you're wiring to the same ohm load which would be 1 ohm nominal, and your electrical system can support it, the Taramp's would be double if not slightly more power.

If they are the same price, it depends on what you want for the money you're spending:

Either raw high power(more than double the rms power for the same price) or overbuilt to be "dummy proof".

Its like purchasing a hummer for daily driving. You can get the overbuilt car if you are afraid of being in a wreck all the time or buy something more versatile that gives more power in your hand when you want it as long as you know how to drive smart.....

Excellent opinion...My electrical system is pretty small just 2 VMAX CT1500 , 1 VMAX CT2500 and a Yellow top Optima with a 140A alternator for now...will soon be upgrading the alternator to a 320A.. Also all ground and power wires are Stinger 1/0 gauge.

Would also like to know seeing that you have experience and are familiar with the Taramps, have you or anyone you know actually clamped them or dyno them to see what they actually make at 12V? I ask this I have no intention of having a separate 14V or 16V bank. I prefer to stick with a 12V system.

The Taramp's amplifiers are designed to produce rated power at 12.6 volts, it is not necessary to run higher voltages on these amplifiers, as you would have to do with other types, to get rated power.
Therefore, based on the electrical system you have cited (Please note: this is hypothetical as I cannot vouch for these batteries actually doing their ratings) along with the upgraded alternator you mentioned, it is possible to run the T10.9kw in this system.
For reference, I normally recommend a reputable high output alternator doing around 150 amps upwards at idle plus 3 of our Reikken HO3209 batteries to run a T10.9KW adequately.