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Brian Steele wrote:If you actually need to do that for any subwoofer, you probably should be investing your money in better subwoofers
(...Rovin...) wrote:so if i understand what ur saying i cud buy a brand new sub rated 1500wrms just drop it in a box designed for it (proper install of course) & play it right away with full the 1500wrms without any worries of damaging it ???
(...Rovin...) wrote:so um :
taken from DD site :We recommend to allow at least several weeks of playing time to break in DD Woofers, full break in may take many months. DO NOT play subwoofers at max amplifier power in the first couple of days, give the suspensions a chance to loosen up. As the suspension breaks in, the subs will play lower and louder.
whats up with this ? ...![]()
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t&t tech wrote:I hear yuh Rovin! Daz a good illustration too! By the way slacker jack ah like dah piece ah trini talk dey! LOL
t&t tech wrote:Nowhere in the quote from the dd site did it say anything about the speaker being able to handle more power after being broken in! it makes mention of not playing the sub at max until you have given the speaker a chance to loosen up!
No sub needs to be broken in to prevent it from being damaged!
As said in the quote and one of my earlier posts! This time allows the speaker to loosen up and become more compliant to the frequencies and thus resulting in better sound!
This isn't an arguement or a law of audio! It's simple physics! It hapens naturally! Whether or not you like it!
t&t tech wrote:Here is a simple illustration that i came across!
(...Rovin...) wrote:t&t tech, thats 1 way of looking at it too
when im telling ppl who ask me i use running shoes as a example - i bet if ur going to run a marathon or any rugged course u wont be wearing a brand new pair of running sneakers ....doubt i need to explain that even further .....
(...Rovin...) wrote:slacker_jack,
Brian Steele, is a foreigner so u might want to use a bit more clearer way of typing with less trini slangs & splitting up sentences into paragraphs wud make it easier to read & understand it too ....
Brian Steele wrote:(...Rovin...) wrote:t&t tech, thats 1 way of looking at it too
when im telling ppl who ask me i use running shoes as a example - i bet if ur going to run a marathon or any rugged course u wont be wearing a brand new pair of running sneakers ....doubt i need to explain that even further .....
You're comparing chalk and cheese here - the materials used in a "running shoe" are not the same as the materials used for subwoofer's spider and surround. Same family perhaps, but not the same.
t&t tech wrote:Oh well! What more can i say! That theory brian is accepted by installers of a vast array locally and on an international scale! Where are you from brian? Are you an installer of car audio? If you don't mind me asking!
(...Rovin...) wrote:btw - are u really the owner of that site & were u born here or did u work here in trinidad ? ....
mumra wrote:i followed the method given in the link
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/for ... PN~1~TPN~2Here's a procedure I learned that is fairly simple to use to break in a woofer. If you are installing your own woofers, be it for car or home use, and have found this thread because you're the type who wants to go about the installation systematically, covering all bases, then this procedure is for you:
You need a test tone CD (here is a download) with a 10 minute track of the tone that corresponds with the Fs of the woofer. You need to be able to hang the woofer up in mid air, through one of the mounting holes in the frame, letting it hang freely. There should be no walls close to the woofer, and the woofer certainly shouldn't be laying on the table on its magnet (as you often see in videos). The nearby table or wall acts to compress the air behind the cone so avoid those types of disturbances.
The idea is to play the sine wave tone through the woofer at resonant frequency in free air. A very slight amount of power will enable the woofer to move at full excursion. You have to first find out what the Xmax is so that you can look at the excursion and gauge (by eye) the approximate excursion you're putting the woofer through. A subwoofer with a one-way excursion of 12 mm would look like its moving about an inch as the voice coil moves back and forth. You'll note that you are allowing only a few watts of power to reach full Xmax, so be careful with the volume control.
If you're working with a car subwoofer, you can prop the trunk lid and hang it from that. If you're working with a home sub, you can hang it from the ceiling of the room near the amplifier. Play the tone at Fs, watch the cone movement while adjusting volume, and let it flap and whirrr for the 10 minute period. It will sound more like a fan than a subwoofer. Allow 10 minutes cooling time, then run it again a few sets. Your woofer is now broken in.
There is only a small percentage of DIYers who will go through this procedure. They are the ones who make sure they have a test tone CD for setting gains, who make sure they damped all the sheet metal while the car is torn apart, who made sure they grinded all the paint off the metal before securing the ground wire. This is just another of the steps to ensuring that when you are ready to debut the system, it will sound the way you had hoped it would.
t&t tech wrote:So you think you know bout sounds, it makes mention of an audio enthusiast by the name of dan wiggins, I interact with guys who have been personally taught by him! Who have the experience and the skills to back whatever they teach!
Brian Steele wrote:I've yet to see ANY measurements that suggest a driver's parameters change significantly after break-in. In fact, the only published test that I have seen actually DISPROVES the hypothesis that "break-in" makes a significant difference, and that's the one Tom Nousaine did with the Dynaudio sub for CSR several years ago.
Ok, let's apply some logic to the situation. ANY change in compliance that results in a significant change in how the sub sounds WILL be reflected in a significant change in the driver's measured T/S parameters, end of story. So, it should be very easy to observe and quantify this "big change" that occurs during break-in by simply comparing the driver's measured T/S parameters while new to its measured T/S parameters a few months down the road, right?
So guess what - I just did my own test using those test guidelines. I've got some Infinity subs in my ride at the moment that I purchased almost a year ago. I measured the T/S parameters of one of the subs back when I'd just purchased them, and I just yanked out one and measured its T/S parameters a few minutes ago. See results below:
New driver measured specs :
Fs : 18.8 Hz
Qms :6.26
Qes : 0.49
Qts : 0.457
(see http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diy ... e-see.html for the thread where these specs were published)
Current measured specs:
Fs: 18.8 Hz
Qms: 5.86
Qes: 0.50
Qts: 0.46
(I can send you the captured image from WT3 if you don't believe me, LOL).
I didn't measure Vas as I didn't think it necessary - any change in compliance should show up as a change in Fs. In any case, the Qb of my sealed box is still basically the same (it would shift dramatically if Vas shifted dramatically).
Conclusion: The changes are minor and well within usual limits. This suggests NO significant change in the subwoofer's parameters, after several months of operation (and I do tend to be heavy on the bass knob at times).
Now, if I can get consistent performance like this from a cheap US $100 subwoofer, why on earth would I spend $$$ more for inconsistent performance from another manufacturer's subwoofer?
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