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X_Factor
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Postby X_Factor » April 27th, 2008, 10:29 am

^^ make sure its atleast 13-15amps/2.3-2.5hp and well basic features


and you could also price the worm drive type saw..those really sweet!!

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Postby Loudsound Customs » April 27th, 2008, 7:25 pm

pioneer wrote:Kool thanks...any particular model #?


will check the model 4 you tomorrow

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Postby Loudsound Customs » April 27th, 2008, 7:29 pm

pioneer wrote:Well pricesmart has no circular saws...

I looking at a Skil router too, they any good?


nuh to sure buh i kno a dude that build enclosures for a livin in canada and it wokin good...again its up to the model as well :D

Image

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- Rovin's car audio -
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Postby - Rovin's car audio - » April 27th, 2008, 8:22 pm

i have a dremel too - wouldnt give it hard work to do nah since dem things really made for delicate fine jobs

have a 2hp B&D plunge router a few yrs now - works good for d $ , good for d house holder but a pro who uses it often will want a better unit .....

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Postby Chiney » April 27th, 2008, 8:38 pm

i have the bit that dey use fuh speaker rings...buh i doe use it :lol:

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Postby DYNAMIX SOUND SYSTEM » April 27th, 2008, 11:31 pm

ROVIN WHERE DO THEY SELL THE CLAMPS???

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Postby - Rovin's car audio - » April 27th, 2008, 11:34 pm

^^bhagwansings & some of d good tool places like Lauglin , SWS on union rd marabella , dansteel in south etc .....

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Postby Chiney » April 28th, 2008, 9:13 pm

^^ mine is similar to that..just the handle is black

works great!

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Postby - Rovin's car audio - » April 29th, 2008, 12:50 pm

pioneer wrote:Rovin one quick question, what kinda clamps you using with the spirit level?...also what length level i should get?

I notice the cheaper chinese levels made of thin aluminium, i thinking a too strong clamp would bend it, so i might use C-clamps


now seeing this

u can use C clamps or spring clamps- either works ....i have a cheap level but its striaght ...dont need to squeeze it down too hard ...

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Postby Lance » April 29th, 2008, 2:37 pm

There are alot of Refurb skils on the market locally,

there is a place up in santa cruz who sells refurbs Skil powersaws, A1 tools.

But they let you know its refurbs, as they have new ones also.

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Postby Lance » April 29th, 2008, 2:40 pm

the ones at A1's the guy said some had bent shafts or something, But its straight now :lol:

My skil came with a hard case and a box though

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Postby nigel1977 » April 29th, 2008, 3:04 pm

I picked up a refurb B&D dragster belt sander at a sale the other day

32 cupboard doors, 16 drawers later, it still works fine...


Similar to what someone said on this thread, if you dont know how to use tools, obviously they will break.

Most of my cutting and assembly that is done with power tools, is done with what I would call entry level/home grade/ light/medium duty tools, (B&D, Ryobi, Master Mechanic), and I have yet to burn a winding or damage guide bearings. Except heat guns (gone thru about 2 of those already).

Take care of your tools, and use them in the manner they were built and they will last for awhile

e.g. dont use a entry level skill saw to rip 2x4 pitch pine etc etc.
e.g. buy better quality bits, blades etc.
e.g. match the blade/bit to the material you are working on
e.g. dont force the tool against the job. Let the bit/blade do the hard work
e.g. dont hold your power tools by the cord, regardless of the brand
e.g. always clean your power tools, if you have a blower, blow out the dust from inside the vents to keep the windings clear
e.g. with drills, dont try to get the biggest hole at once, use a few bits
e.g. listen to the rpm's of the motor, its natural for them to drop off with load, remember, as the rpm's drop, so does the cooling ability of the tool, as the blower is mounted on the same shaft as is the bit/blade.

If I think of anymore tips, i'll add them.

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Postby kurpal_v2 » April 29th, 2008, 4:14 pm

e.g. listen to the rpm's of the motor, its natural for them to drop off with load, remember, as the rpm's drop, so does the cooling ability of the tool, as the blower is mounted on the same shaft as is the bit/blade




Very true..

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Postby Chiney » April 29th, 2008, 7:31 pm

Take care of your tools, and use them in the manner they were built and they will last for awhile

been tellin ppl that since the thread started :!:

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Postby Chiney » April 29th, 2008, 8:21 pm

^^nice

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Postby - Rovin's car audio - » April 29th, 2008, 8:59 pm

that is d 1 for $500 ? .....hope u bought a good blade too since d blade it comes with not good for sheit

that certain place u went to on CSR does sell expensive - like dem figure dem is d only hardware around ....

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Postby - Rovin's car audio - » April 29th, 2008, 9:17 pm

i use that exact Irwin 40T blade - cuts without effort when new ....mine missing 2 teeth & accidentally run thru a few scews ....still works good though

if u cutting 3\4 mdf then set it at around 1"-1.25"

d 1" mdf place u talking about ? - Chan Ramlal - d same place u see everyday during IE Tv news ....i walk with my p\saw & cut it myself ....d guys there helpful & will give u a hand.......

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Postby Lance » April 29th, 2008, 9:46 pm

saw looking good yo,

Now build me a box, to ensure its working good.

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Postby - Rovin's car audio - » April 29th, 2008, 9:50 pm

pioneer wrote:Kool thanks...they sell retail there?

By Medford right?

Price?


yep

yep

last time i bought was around $290\sheet for 1" ....

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Postby kurpal_v2 » April 29th, 2008, 9:54 pm

last time i bought was around $290\sheet for 1" ....



Wth, das mdf prices now? So to build a box with a 4inch baffle will cost in excess of $1000

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Postby - Rovin's car audio - » May 1st, 2008, 10:39 pm

^^^yesterday i was by bhags looking at that laser B&D p\saw u say u bought - i find it looking kinda biggish like say compared to a normal size model like d dewalt ....u try it as yet : review ????.....

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Postby Chiney » May 1st, 2008, 11:41 pm

^^ yeh..he almost finish the box..

works really good

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Postby Loudsound Customs » May 2nd, 2008, 12:10 am

pioneer wrote:Kool thanks...any particular model #?


jed sorry 4 replyin late buh i hav my saw so long it doe hav d model anymore lol...all i can c it is 2.4 HP

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Postby - Rovin's car audio - » May 2nd, 2008, 12:21 am

^^^those r d ol days when they used to rate them by HP & not amps


pioneer wrote:Then i put in the Irwin 40T, and damnnn :shock: ...no effort at all...you just have to guide the saw.


The laser is useless really, unless

Other than that i'm happy with it, it did what i wanted it to do and was accurate.



good review & well thats pretty much what i said if u read back earlier in this thread ... :wink:

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Postby - Rovin's car audio - » May 18th, 2008, 10:23 pm

coulda make a new thread

need some full shots so we can see d whole box but not bad at all ...

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Postby - Rovin's car audio - » May 18th, 2008, 11:24 pm

separate or single chamber ?

thats in d xtrail right - so now how far its from d trunk lid .... coulda counter sink d sub for a much neater look ... :mrgreen:

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Postby Chiney » May 19th, 2008, 1:32 am

well done pios!!

well done.... :P

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Postby X_Factor » May 24th, 2008, 12:24 am

how u made the flare ports?

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Postby ChristianRD » May 24th, 2008, 12:32 am

pioneer wrote:Back to tools, what's a good inexpensive router i can buy?...i fed up use jig to cut circles


x 2

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Postby - Rovin's car audio - » May 24th, 2008, 12:35 am

pioneer wrote:Back to tools, what's a good inexpensive router i can buy?...i fed up use jig to cut circles


by bhags should have a 2hp B&D which i also own - works alright though it can be made a bit nicer

but i rather use a jigsaw to cut out speaker holes - time it takes to set up a cutout jig i would have already cut out d hole ...invest in a good heavy duty jigsaw (like my dewalt) & good blades (like those from lennox) which makes d work easy .....

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