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fiberglass thread...boxes eyelids kicks etc

(I.C.E.)In Car Entertainment - Mobile Audio and Video

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nigel1977
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Postby nigel1977 » May 10th, 2007, 12:11 pm

the problem with water, is that it f's up the mdf rings.

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Postby Lance » May 10th, 2007, 12:55 pm

yes exactly, it swells, as well as any internal bracing you may have.

sytrofoam bits sounds like a good idea never though about it,

I built a nice 1 cf box internal with no top, and jus full that first with the material you want to test the cf with, and just put it into the box. continue doing that untill the sub box is full, and if it took 2 to full it, well u have a 2cubic feet box or there about.

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Postby jeff » May 10th, 2007, 12:58 pm

any mdf part in the box could be affected, braces rings etc...a coat of resin on mdf parts gives sufficient waterproofing for the split second you fill the box

it is not recommended to keep the water in there long.... :shock: only a few seconds is necessary..

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Postby spam » May 10th, 2007, 1:03 pm

jeff wrote:......uh am

how much water it takes to fill the box will be the volume of the box........... :shock:


yea i know but this mean you have to finish the box and then full it right ?

that is what i mean

cuz with the foam you could pull cloth over the estimated area and full it wit the foam so you could estimate the volume



:shock: :shock: :shock:

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Postby nigel1977 » May 10th, 2007, 1:12 pm

^^^ try the packing "peanuts" you wont go back. lol

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Postby spam » May 10th, 2007, 4:24 pm

that is real $2 pack ah nuts jed

:shock: :shock: :shock:

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Postby nigel1977 » May 10th, 2007, 6:11 pm

spam :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

packing peanuts are the styrofoam chips you use to stuff items during shipping.

Image

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Postby jeff » May 10th, 2007, 6:38 pm

:shock: :shock: .......am..... :shock:

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Postby spam » May 10th, 2007, 11:35 pm

nigel1977 wrote:spam :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

packing peanuts are the styrofoam chips you use to stuff items during shipping.

Image



hahaha yea i knew that 8-)


:shock: :shock: :shock:

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Postby pimptacular » May 11th, 2007, 2:00 am

pioneer wrote:Where to get dem peanuts ?

And well guys i made a booboo...lasnite after i primed the eyelids...i had put dem down outside to dry

and i went out later in the night to take ah smoke n i forget they were there n i stepped on one :|

It crack on the edge a bit but used some resin n fixed that...lol

:oops:


daz another reason to say ciagrettes bad fuh u :lol:

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Postby Soundstream_626 » May 11th, 2007, 9:40 am

aye nigel remember when u were makin d pods for d 3 inch in d pillar
u used some kinda red finishing filler business some micro filler or the other ......whats that? ..liek the name i mean an how u use it etc ?

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Postby nigel1977 » May 11th, 2007, 10:05 am

its called claw glaze.

basically is glazing putty or some call it redders.

you can get it at any paint shop.

USE SPARINGLY. when its put on too thick, its takes awhile to dry and its a beyotch to sand. Its used to fill sand paper lines and tiny holes. DONT USE IT FOR ANYTHING ELSE.

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Postby nigel1977 » May 11th, 2007, 3:40 pm

sounds like the lid itself is changing shape or warping. btw, did you use hardner with the primer, also, did you use reducer or thinners?

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Postby pimptacular » May 11th, 2007, 5:57 pm

nigel how the lid go change shape? :? dat didnt happen to me an i find that kinda odd..the primer hold onto the lid good?

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Postby nigel1977 » May 11th, 2007, 6:21 pm

fiberglass, if not mixed properly, will gel quickly, but take long to harden. if you begin working it too soon, it will warp as it fully hardens.

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Postby pimptacular » May 11th, 2007, 6:22 pm

ork scene well atleast u get it fix..buh u line it up even with the hood an bumper? cuz in the pic i saw no filler a piece of the glass..thaz the reason i askin

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Postby pimptacular » May 11th, 2007, 7:11 pm

ork sense sense..buh look how we take over jeff thread bout he trunk na :lol: de man rename he thread

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Postby jeff » May 11th, 2007, 7:45 pm

lol iz ok good to see interest in this...as it shows how much work is involved

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Postby spam » May 12th, 2007, 8:50 am

ok like i said i was gonna try out this glassin thing

so far i tape the door, then put foil and tape over the first layer of tape

i then put car was on that and then layer the fiber on it and add resin

this is 2 layers of glass here

Image

Image

i do this last night bout 7 and it eh dry yet goin to put it in de sun

question...should i let 1 layer dry b4 addin the second ?

put alyuh 2 cents

i learning


:shock: :shock: :shock:

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Postby Lance » May 12th, 2007, 9:30 am

Since you doing the base i guess u can do 2 layers at a time.

i wont advise you to put more than 2 layers at a time,

I take the extra time and do one at a time when glassing the body of the pod, the last time i tried 2 one time, ended up having to spend alot more time in the sanding stages, Best take your time and do layer by layer and ensure the mat is layed well with no uneven layers, airpockets or bumps.

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Postby spam » May 12th, 2007, 10:22 am

ok so i watchin the door and thinkin i aint need all that if is just 1 6" goin dey

so if i want the pod to be where the blue line is in the image below what i could use to cut it if it even possible?

Image

and how think should the base be for a small pod like this?

:shock: :shock: :shock:
Last edited by spam on May 12th, 2007, 10:28 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby nigel1977 » May 12th, 2007, 10:27 am

Spam... you should beat the snot outta the man who tape down that door hoss. lord. the air pockets means that the tape isn't sitting down on the door. When the fiberglass pulls as it hardens, the tape could release off the door, rather than hold its shape.

If you did this last night, and you didn't add heat, it wont dry for sheit. What we do when we use fiberglass resin anytime after 5, is to heat up the resin, also known as cooking the resin. If you don't do that, the resin will never go exothermic, and never harden (cure).

What you need to to is put it the sun and make sure the first layer is drying, if not, then you've got problems, and you may need to mix a batch of resin with more hardner, to activate the first layer. DONT put another layer at this point. The top layer will dry and leave the bottom layer wet.

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Postby spam » May 12th, 2007, 10:41 am

nah nah the part with the fiber glass smooth is only the other parts do ruff it was just incase


What you need to to is put it the sun and make sure the first layer is drying, if not, then you've got problems, and you may need to mix a batch of resin with more hardner, to activate the first layer. DONT put another layer at this point. The top layer will dry and leave the bottom layer wet.


ok it in the sun now i think it gettin lil hardish


:shock: :shock: :shock:

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Postby jeff » May 12th, 2007, 12:46 pm

^^^ am ...is there any foil on dat and masking tape alone...........it not sure if i seeing no foil there...

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Postby spam » May 12th, 2007, 1:43 pm

yea it have foil layer of tape then foil then more tape

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Postby spam » May 12th, 2007, 5:33 pm

can i leave the base as 2 layers thick or should i get it thicker and how much thicker?

:shock: :shock: :shock:

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Postby nigel1977 » May 12th, 2007, 5:36 pm

for a base layer is usually go with 3-4 layers, especially when its that curvy.

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pimptacular
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Postby pimptacular » May 13th, 2007, 11:16 pm

pios the extrail goin an look rel hott when it finish buh how come ya fogs lookin a bit yellow?

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Postby spam » May 13th, 2007, 11:46 pm

ok this is where i am at

yea the shapes not exactly the same but shite that it good enough

in time i would better

Image

Image

jed how do you stop yuh skin from feelin like it have glass on it?

:shock: :shock: :shock:

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pimptacular
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Postby pimptacular » May 14th, 2007, 1:08 am

bathe with blue soap an daz serious talk also after ya bathe use lotion or cream an rub on ya skin

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