Opinions and Advice Needed Please

[SEVin]

Hey All,

Temptation has come over me to change my subwoofer and I am not sure what route to go down so I will give you a brief intro of what I have for the amp and sub. Now this is only for the bass, mids and highs are managed by another 4 channel amp.

Currently, I am running a Single 12" Kicker L5:



Here are some specs on the sub but I am sure most of you already seen, heard and know about this sub:

Model: VS12L5
Type: Single
Impedance: 2 Ohms
Woofer: S12L5
Max Rec Amp Power: 1200W Max / 600W RMS
Enclosure Top Depth: 37.2cm
Enclosure Bottom Depth: 45.8cm
Enclosure Height: 40.6cm
Enclosure Width: 47.6cm

The sub is powered by this amp:



Specs of amp: http://www.speedsound.com/product.asp?s ... =jonpcqhqg

Now here is what I am thinking of doing, I would like to get rid of this one 12 and install 3 10" subs instead, preferably the JL Audio W1's. Plus I am looking to get optimal space so that I do not lose my trunk and I have read on JL's site that these subs are more efficient for smaller enclosures. Why 3 instead of 2 10's I am sure you are asking yourself, well its just an idea and I like to experiment plus Rovin's last write up he did on the Alpine Type R's got me thinking.

Now I have a few questions that I hope you all can assist with.

1. Do you think that this is a good idea to do? I have no problems with the current setup that I have, even though I am hearing a very low crackling sound from the sub but it does not give me any issues. You will only hear the crackling sound when you are very close the sub otherwise, the 12" does the job

2. I do not want to change the amp that I have, so if I decide to go down the route with the 3 10" subs, would that amp be sufficient to power all three. Seeing that the subs are single 4 ohm I believe and the amp is rated continously at 600x2ohm and 400x4ohm. Can all three subs be wired to have the amp give the 2ohm output to all three subs?

3. I prefer a ported enclosure, I have had in the past two sets of setup for bass - The first was two 10's in a sealed enclosure and the second 2 12's in a sealed closure. They were more punchy as compared to my single ported 12, which is more boomy. So I would like to have a ported or vented enclosure such as this one:



Do you think that this type of box will take up alot of space, are sealed enclosures generally more space efficient, meaning they take up alot less space than ported or vented enclosures?

Sorry for the long write up, but I wanted to give as much info as possible. Hopefully I did not confuse anyone

Thanks

[SEVin]

Edit, the L5 I have is a DVC with the same box as above

[SEVin]

pioneer, my mistake

Just to clarify, the triple 10 box above is only for an example of the box that I am thinking of getting, not the MTX subs..I am focusing on the JL subs

[noyztoyz]

if u have the $ to put out for the 3 subs and new enclosure then u could go ahead, the amp will
not be able to give them best power, if you got the 8 ohm version 10s you would come down to 2.33 ohms.

If it were me in your place id put another 12 l5 and get rovin to do a performance enclosure and get a bigger mono, because even if u have to run the 3 10s its gonna call for a bigger mono.

[- Rovin's car audio -]

but look what trouble my last write up causing ppl ...


noyztoyz, is right with d 2.33 ohms thing but since u dont want to lose trunk space y not do 2 10s ported

havent used d JL w1 , image dynamics ID falls within d power u have too .....

[viking1705]

why not try 2 of the w3's?hen again u still will hav to upgrade your mono..oh well welcome to the club bro u want a bigger bassline u gotta get the power for it.

[SEVin]

Guys, thanks..I think you are right, hence why I asked the first question about it being a good idea that led into the second question with the amp.

SO scrap that idea with the three tens but tell me, do you think that amp will work with two of these RE Subs:

RE Audio SR12-D2, specs are as follows:

Kraft Pulp Cone
Rubatek Foam Surround
Pressed Steel Basket
4-layer Copper Voice Coil• FEA Optimized Motor Structure
Double Stack Magnets
Linear Spiders
Foam Gasket
Mounting Depth - 5.75"
Mounting Hole Diameter - 11"
Overall Diameter - 12.375"
Bolt Hole Circle - 11.625"
Motor Width - 6.25"
Motor Depth - 2.5"
Basket Depth - 3.25"
Displacement - 0.14 cu. ft.
Weight - 16.5 lbs
QES: 0.41
QMS: 4.99
QTS: .38
Free air Resonance - FS - 23.6 HZ
VAS: 85 Liters
XMAX: 18 MM
SPL @ 1W / 1M: 86.2 dB SPL
Effective piston area: Sd: 480 cm ^2
Dc Resistance: RE: 1.8 ohm
Nominal Impedance: Dual 2 Ohm
300w RMS Rated
600 watts max
Force Factor, BI: 14.35

Do you two of these wouild work with the amp above?

Something I did not mention was that I am not really looking for brain damaging bass that could put the thunder gods to shame but something that will at least be enjoyable to listen to in terms of sound quality and output.

Hope that makes sense

[- Rovin's car audio -]

d RE RE series shud be more suitable for that amp's power ....

[SEVin]

(...Rovin...), Thanks for the input and I dont mean to sound like a total noob or anything but why do you say that the RE's would be more suitable with this amp instead of the SR?

The SR 12 does have a 2 ohm impedence with a RMS rating of 300 watts while the RE is only a single 4 ohm I believe with an RMS rating of 175 watts...at least that what I believe I read on US Amps/RE website earlier today

I mean this amp can output 600 watts RMS at a 2 ohm stable impedence

Just asking for educational purposes and the input is appreciated

[- Rovin's car audio -]

in layman terms its always advise u have a amp that can supply a little more then what a sub needs so d amp doesnt have to be working max & u have headroom on it

so ex a 1200wrms amp on a rated 1000wrms sub

its like if in theory a 1500cc engine can move a 2000 lb car it will def be easier for a 1800cc engine to move d same 2000 lb


havent used this mode of RE personally as yet but a trusted installer friend of mine says he did a few with up to 400wrms on it with no problems (not that i wud advise ppl to put more than double rated power for long periods of daily use) , so lets say u have 600wrms u wud have some extra amp headroom ....

[Kaizen Autosound]

Why not be different?

JBL Power Series.

Available in Dual 4 and Dual 2 ohm



Available at Kaizen Auto Sound

http://www.jbl.com/car/products/product ... &Region=US

[SEVin]

Kaizen Autosound, those wont work as I am not really looking to change my amp, just to change my sub to subs

[SEVin]

(...Rovin...), very good explanation...

Hmm..I wonder if the Alpine Type S also fall within this category?

Looks like its back to the good ole drawing board for me or just stick to my one L5 OR go one size higher to a 15"

hehe

[Kaizen Autosound]

Kaizen Autosound, those wont work as I am not really looking to change my amp, just to change my sub to subs

From the specs provided, your amp is rated at 600 Watts rms @ 2ohm

The sub is rated at 1600 watts max and 400 rms.

A dual 4 ohm model would work pretty well off that amplifier

[SEVin]

Kaizen Autosound, True, you know I didnt realize that..I will add these to my list

[SR]

i suggest 1 pr Jl W3 12" svc 4ohm

sealed

[SEVin]

SR, I had two JL W3 v2's in my old ride but I sold that (I grumble everyday to myself that I did that)...they were some very clean sounding subs and it was in a sealed enclosure also..

The new V3's are rated at 500 rms I believe so it will probably just like keeping my ported L5 at the moment

Thanks for the input though

[SR]

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs ... page_id=35

negative

250-300rms is what is required

500 is max