Car audio advice thread

[ruffneck_12]

IMO those x-overs packaged with component systems are basic designs that are probably just to ensure that you don't blow the drivers by feeding them frequencies that they can't handle (tweeters) or too much power overall (good ones have power-protection components included in the tweeter section of the x-overs).

A GOOD x-over design for drivers could end up costing as much as one or more of the drivers. The passive x-overs I designed for my car audio system cost more than the woofers I originally used.

You're better off driving each driver with its own amp channel and using DSP / EQ / active filtering to get the best results. It's the way I would have gone if I could have figured out a way to run two pairs of speaker cables into each door of my 2007 Tucson .

You have a write up for that x-over design/build on your site by chance?

[Brian Steele]

You have a write up for that x-over design/build on your site by chance?

There's some information here, but not much - http://www.diysubwoofers.org/projects/c ... eakers.htm

if I remember correctly, the x-overs were designed by Madisound to suit the drivers I chose to use - and I ended up modifying the x-overs anyway, LOL.

It was the first and last time I had a x-over designed by another party. After that I did my own x-over design work. Not slamming Madisound's work - it was just something I wanted to do on my own.

[Jeremy09]

So the crossovers are built with a low pass for mid and highpass for tweeters? Or just tweeter alone?

[Jeremy09]

Sounding rellllllll nice. Thanks fellas rovin & mr. Timelapse...question though, the box says these rated 50rms. Is that together or each?

[david12]

That would be 50 rms each.

[Jeremy09]

That would be 50 rms each.

An if given that 50rms each. What should the high pass be set to for the mid bass?

[ruffneck_12]

Yeah Rovin Buzzmat is rel value for money ting

[Rovin]

i cant recall if he did buy d Buzzmat from me a while back but yes i do have it if not d lowest then among d lowest price in d country $125 for a 18x32 [4 sqft] sheet, its a good solid product at an affordable cost

he did get d nissan door adapters & bnib jl c1 comps from me just saturday gone so thanks for d support

freq range in d manual is 48hz-24kz so try 50 & if u find it sounding lil muddy depending on your tuning cut them at 63 - did u go by times or u did it urself at home ? , if u around my area & want me to take a listen feel free to check me

welcome into d world of SQ, if u tune it right u will understand what d sq guys were always talking about in terms stereo separation, stage height, imaging, depth etc , of course u wont hear much of that if u play crappy music, u do need a sub for d under what u cut ur mids at & u dont have to go crazy with that

if u get it right then i would have to stop calling u jeRAJme ...

[Jeremy09]

i cant recall if he did buy d Buzzmat from me a while back but yes i do have it if not d lowest then among d lowest price in d country $125 for a 18x32 [4 sqft] sheet, its a good solid product at an affordable cost

he did get d nissan door adapters & bnib jl c1 comps from me just saturday gone so thanks for d support

freq range in d manual is 48hz-24kz so try 50 & if u find it sounding lil muddy depending on your tuning cut them at 63 - did u go by times or u did it urself at home ? , if u around my area & want me to take a listen feel free to check me

welcome into d world of SQ, if u tune it right u will understand what d sq guys were always talking about in terms stereo separation, stage height, imaging, depth etc , of course u wont hear much of that if u play crappy music, u do need a sub for d under what u cut ur mids at & u dont have to go crazy with that

if u get it right then i would have to stop calling u jeRAJme ...

Thinking about keeping the Crescendo Symphony s4 and using it to power the jls and a sub on d next 2 channel..it puts out about 400rms 4ohm bridged..and well,ill be able to push the jls to the full potential if recommended..but thanks again. Enjoying it to be honest

[Rovin]

that sounds like a good plan

just lower d gain as u dont want to put d rated 140rms in stereo which is more than double what d c1 is rated at ...

[Jeremy09]

that sounds like a good plan

just lower d gain as u dont want to put d rated 140rms in stereo which is more than double what d c1 is rated at ...

63hz cut sounded nice. 80hz sounded nice also. Given the 50rms, can i still cut 63hz or that to low

[Rovin]

like i said depends on ur tuning, vol level & what songs u playing, if u unsure of yourself better u go 80 to be safe for now

dunno what is ur budget & how ur funds running but i wud get a sub preferably a 12 asap, even a small $ pio in a good box will work wonders off 400rms ...

[Jeremy09]

like i said depends on ur tuning, vol level & what songs u playing, if u unsure of yourself better u go 80 to be safe for now

dunno what is ur budget & how ur funds running but i wud get a sub preferably a 12 asap, even a small $ pio in a good box will work wonders off 400rms ...

Was watching the rockford p2 12 or the jl 12w1v3...both are 300rms. But i still have some equipment to sell, soon as i get them out ill look into a sub

[Brian Steele]

FWIW, I know I can end up cranking it a little on the weekends after I've had a beer or two. I prefer to not blow the drivers in Matilda's doors, so I have the acoustic x-over point at around 100 Hz (if I remember correctly). The electrical x-over point is a bit higher.

[kavaninho]

Are you using the deck alone for processing jeramy? Is the tweeter installed like that temporarily? They may require re-aiming.

[Jeremy09]

Are you using the deck alone for processing jeramy? Is the tweeter installed like that temporarily? They may require re-aiming.

Yup. Deck alone..the tweeters are indeed temporary placed. They were hurting ears a bit at 0db. Flipped the switch on the crossover to -3db and they sounded alot better

[Rovin]

c1 tweeters are metal dome so it will naturally be a bit bright so yea tone it down a bit & it will sound much nicer ....

[Jeremy09]

Fellas, 3m 2way tape and silicone not holding up them tweeters. Any idea on what to use to stick them? Dont want any damage to the panel.

[Dave]

Use outdoor two way and ensure the area is thoroughly cleaned and degreased.

[Jeremy09]

Use outdoor two way and ensure the area is thoroughly cleaned and degreased.

Where i getting that?

[Dave]

The outdoor one is the red side one available most auto parts stores and paint shops

[ruffneck_12]

Use outdoor two way and ensure the area is thoroughly cleaned and degreased.

Where i getting that?

Any good hardware store tbh. It's usually the grey one

But bmt, If silicone aint holding ya ting, then there's something wrong with your surfaces Because I tried a test where I had a layer of fresh engine oil on glass, and silicone still stuck to it (albiet not strongly, but still)

meeno what you doing wrong tbh,,, take a picture for us please.


(or it could be that your tweeters just heavy too eh, it may need mechanical mounting)

[Jeremy09]

The outdoor one is the red side one available most auto parts stores and paint shops

Thats what i used. Falls off after a couple days

[Jeremy09]

Use outdoor two way and ensure the area is thoroughly cleaned and degreased.

Where i getting that?

Any good hardware store tbh. It's usually the grey one

But bmt, If silicone aint holding ya ting, then there's something wrong with your surfaces Because I tried a test where I had a layer of fresh engine oil on glass, and silicone still stuck to it (albiet not strongly, but still)

meeno what you doing wrong tbh,,, take a picture for us please.


(or it could be that your tweeters just heavy too eh, it may need mechanical mounting)

They are a bit heavy. It slides of an falls off without before the silicone drys

[ruffneck_12]

Well then Capitan , Put something to prop it while the silicone drys and cures over a weekend And don't use the vehicle until it's good to go )))))


Also you may need to glue on an extra bracket yes, to get more surface area adhered to the car body to support the tweeter.




While we wait on a picture......What tweeter is it and where is it mounting?

[rollingstock]

The outdoor one is the red side one available most auto parts stores and paint shops

Thats what i used. Falls off after a couple days

Prep and clean your surface properly. I've never seen that just fall off

[Jeremy09]

Well then Capitan , Put something to prop it while the silicone drys and cures over a weekend And don't use the vehicle until it's good to go )))))


Also you may need to glue on an extra bracket yes, to get more surface area adhered to the car body to support the tweeter.




While we wait on a picture......What tweeter is it and where is it mounting?

This was it, with the 2 sided tape. Its the tweeter that comes with the jl c1s

[Rage Warrior]

My tiida has an original tweeter mounting spot there. I would look into getting that A pillar finisher. Clean surface with rubbing alcohol then apply mounting tape, or could try hot glue.

[ruffneck_12]

Is this fabric or plastic ?

But yeah hoss, Evo stik/silicone/even hot glue or wood glue would hold this smol tweety boi

Just need to prepare the surfaces and hold it in place while it cures. Yuh overcomplicating it

Hot glue holding my tweeters in place rn big man ting. Once it's not in direct contact with sunlight/heat it'll last a good while

[Rovin]

like everybody already said clean surface & good adhesive will work

on d other hand weather hot these days & if ur ride park up in direct sun for hrs with ur glass all d way up temp inside can get high & cause a possible adhesive fail

if dont want to put a hole screwing them on cause u gonna sell d car in a while then rest tweeter on dash or put d screw hole & when u ready to sell d car put in cheap tweeter to hide d screw hole ...