Old School Projects

[d spike]

a lot or things that are a pound and a crown to repair, costs cheaper 2 buy a nex 1

Ermmm... what did you do to that engine?

[MG Man]

I would love to see a dyno comparison of a before and after wrt a zigs cut cam.......
at the end of the day, the dyno doesn't lie.........but seat-of-pants does

Those old grinds (a la zigs)cant compare with modern ones,they tended to be long duration and less lift ,not good for emissions and not to great for producing power but easy to tune and very tolerant to bad timing and mango tree tuning.

ok now I totally baffled here.....spike u wanna throw in a spanner here?

[NOMOSS]

I would love to see a dyno comparison of a before and after wrt a zigs cut cam.......
at the end of the day, the dyno doesn't lie.........but seat-of-pants does

Those old grinds (a la zigs)cant compare with modern ones,they tended to be long duration and less lift ,not good for emissions and not to great for producing power but easy to tune and very tolerant to bad timing and mango tree tuning.

ok now I totally baffled here.....spike u wanna throw in a spanner here?

Baffled about what? my dichotomous position on the cams .I pointed out the good and bad about the cams obviously a 30 year old grind not going to be as good as a modern grind especially with the ability now to different intake and exhaust profiles.but that does not mean you discount them totally.We put one of those old zigs boys on with stock head stock followers and extractors and the boiatch woked did some great times on the older wallerfield track,burnt rich like hell and idled like a broken washing machine.We upgraded to a 310 crane and did the same thing ,she spit coughed and burnt back until we got a vernier and advanced the cam a few degrees .The crane was a factory grind that worked excellently ,it just did not tolerate the mango tree treatment like the old 300degree piper grind.Two different eras two different different products .Its sort of like points and carbs vs electronic fuel injection .They both work,one is more efficient than another and I use both .I like carbs on old steel and injection on modern metal ,Is one better than another depends on your point of view ,they both have their pros and cons.i can tell you that none of my carb and points cars were ever towed home but none of them ever gave me 30 on a gallon with the AC on either.

[king bob]

a lot or things that are a pound and a crown to repair, costs cheaper 2 buy a nex 1

Ermmm... what did you do to that engine?

lol, nun, but to the bob's relief and some plugs it started, bt i still carrying it by d mechanic tomorrow, me eh takin no chances

[NOMOSS]

a lot or things that are a pound and a crown to repair, costs cheaper 2 buy a nex 1

Ermmm... what did you do to that engine?

lol, nun, but to the bob's relief and some plugs it started, bt i still carrying it by d mechanic tomorrow, me eh takin no chances

Hey Bob you need to do some reading and start pulling those spanners yourself .

[d spike]

a lot or things that are a pound and a crown to repair, costs cheaper 2 buy a nex 1

Ermmm... what did you do to that engine?

lol, nun, but to the bob's relief and some plugs it started, bt i still carrying it by d mechanic tomorrow, me eh takin no chances

Hey Bob you need to do some reading and start pulling those spanners yourself .

EXACTAMUNDO!!!!!

[king bob]

on d hunter yeah, cus d engine less complicated bt not on d main car just yet

[d spike]

Bob, you need to decide whether you are going to bend your own spanners, or pay someone to do it for you.
I have my own bias (mainly because I am cheap) but there is satisfaction in owning/driving a rod when all you do regarding fixing it is write a cheque - I just can't see it (or afford it)... I mean, I don't have to do a girl's hair or her nails in order to enjoy her...

However, if you are really serious about running a rod, then there are some really good reasons to wrench your own nuts:
Works out a helluva lot cheaper (easier on your pocket, easier on your mind = less stress);
In an emergency/shut-down, you know what to do to get rolling again ( = less stress);
In someone ELSE'S shut-down (especially if they wear a skirt) you can become "le Hero";
You don't get ripped off by slimy mechanics, or not-so-slimy ones who "try ah t'ing" (= less stress);
You have more available cash to attend to other things (= less stress)...

How are you so sure that major damage has been done to the Mazda engine?
What happened to it?

[d spike]

on d hunter yeah, cus d engine less complicated bt not on d main car just yet

Which 626 model is it you have?

[NOMOSS]

on d hunter yeah, cus d engine less complicated bt not on d main car just yet

Which 626 model is it you have?

carbs or injection??

I just love to play with grease.

[d spike]

I would love to see a dyno comparison of a before and after wrt a zigs cut cam.......
at the end of the day, the dyno doesn't lie.........but seat-of-pants does

Those old grinds (a la zigs)cant compare with modern ones,they tended to be long duration and less lift ,not good for emissions and not to great for producing power but easy to tune and very tolerant to bad timing and mango tree tuning.

ok now I totally baffled here.....spike u wanna throw in a spanner here?

Baffled about what? my dichotomous position on the cams .I pointed out the good and bad about the cams obviously a 30 year old grind not going to be as good as a modern grind especially with the ability now to different intake and exhaust profiles.but that does not mean you discount them totally.We put one of those old zigs boys on with stock head stock followers and extractors and the boiatch woked did some great times on the older wallerfield track,burnt rich like hell and idled like a broken washing machine.We upgraded to a 310 crane and did the same thing ,she spit coughed and burnt back until we got a vernier and advanced the cam a few degrees .The crane was a factory grind that worked excellently ,it just did not tolerate the mango tree treatment like the old 300degree piper grind.Two different eras two different different products .Its sort of like points and carbs vs electronic fuel injection .They both work,one is more efficient than another and I use both .I like carbs on old steel and injection on modern metal ,Is one better than another depends on your point of view ,they both have their pros and cons.i can tell you that none of my carb and points cars were ever towed home but none of them ever gave me 30 on a gallon with the AC on either.

Let's try and cut a long story short...
NOMOSS, you seem to be comparing older engines to more modern ones, when the discussion was about comparing cut cams to factory-prepped cams - both being applicable only to said older engines, the Pinto, to be precise.

Please clear up any misconceptions some of us might have:
in a stock 2 litre Pinto, such as Kingbob might acquire, with extractors and a 32/36 Weber, would you suggest using one of zig's cams?

[king bob]

carb, well what happenin is that it burnin oil, back pressurin an d leakin oil

[king bob]

on d hunter yeah, cus d engine less complicated bt not on d main car just yet

Which 626 model is it you have?

carbs or injection??

I just love to play with grease.

626 glx wid d magnum 2.0

[d spike]

carb, well what happenin is that it burnin oil, back pressurin an d leakin oil

Okay, so it's old and the oil-scraper rings are going.
Is it smoking? And if it is smoking, how badly?
Bad smoke means the oil-scraper rings have gone...
If it isn't smoking too badly, then there are ways of making it run until you can do the rings job.
Use a heavier body oil (50 body) and use an additive (Bardahl2 if the smoking isn't too bad, Bardahl No-Smoke if it is)
There is also an additive that helps with the leaking... the seals and gaskets can get hard and brittle, and certain additives can soften and "re-new" those gaskets.
That will deal with your 3 problems: burning oil, "back-pressuring" and oil leaks.
Try not to "push" an engine in these circumstances, and it will run reliably well - just clean your plugs as often AS REQUIRED, even if it is every 2-3 days.

As long as it isn't knocking (bearing damage) all you will have to do is a rings job... and if you do that yourself, then you just need to buy the rings (most likely $300 - $500) and a full kit (less than $500)... oil and filter as well, of course. On average, a rings job costs $600. (More modern engines carry more modern prices )

[NOMOSS]

carb, well what happenin is that it burnin oil, back pressurin an d leakin oil

Okay, so it's old and the oil-scraper rings are going.
Is it smoking? And if it is smoking, how badly?
Bad smoke means the oil-scraper rings have gone...
If it isn't smoking too badly, then there are ways of making it run until you can do the rings job.
Use a heavier body oil (50 body) and use an additive (Bardahl2 if the smoking isn't too bad, Bardahl No-Smoke if it is)
There is also an additive that helps with the leaking... the seals and gaskets can get hard and brittle, and certain additives can soften and "re-new" those gaskets.
That will deal with your 3 problems: burning oil, "back-pressuring" and oil leaks.
Try not to "push" an engine in these circumstances, and it will run reliably well - just clean your plugs as often AS REQUIRED, even if it is every 2-3 days.

If you are on a low budget like many of us dSpike has some feasible options.If the engine not knocking a ring job can be done .If you DIY it will only cost the price of an overhaul kit and rings.Wont hold out like a full rebuild but if you dont push it and dont have expectations as though it is a new engine it can hold out for a year or two or maybe more but thats with a lot of TLC.

[king bob]

it's nt smoking, knockin, bt when i buy d kit i have no experience any engine excapt d hunter and i don't have much wid that either

[NOMOSS]

it's nt smoking, knockin, bt when i buy d kit i have no experience any engine excapt d hunter and i don't have much wid that either

so she just leaking at the seals and back pressuring ?

[d spike]

it's nt smoking, knockin, bt when i buy d kit i have no experience any engine excapt d hunter and i don't have much wid that either

so she just leaking at the seals and back pressuring ?

Bob, you're making the Mazda seem like it's at death's door... good grief...
In the hallowed words of St. Nigie: bob behave.

Seriously, lad, you ain't on de edge yet - unless there is something you haven't mentioned yet... Just clean your plugs regularly (when last did you change your gas filter?)

[nigie]

Aye ...Ive use "no smoke" on 3 engines with no success whatsoever...so bob if it works for u should u use it let me know....

[cinco]

carb, well what happenin is that it burnin oil, back pressurin an d leakin oil

are you gettin smoke on startup or when warm? what colour is the smoke
are u certain it burning oil? or is it just leaking out
backpressure is normal on those magnum 626 get your carb serviced and check the timing im certain your air filter full ah oil also

[d spike]

Aye ...Ive use "no smoke" on 3 engines with no success whatsoever...so bob if it works for u should u use it let me know....

If the rings/cylinder walls are too far gone, then all adding "No-Smoke" will do is to ensure you leave behind a thick, acrid wall of white smoke - and the damned thing takes much longer than ordinary smoke to dissipate, causing more embarrassment than the original problem!

As some fellahs say, yuh could cure de sick, buh yuh cyah raise de dead.

[nigie]

So sometimes......no smoke is add smoke then...hummm

[NOMOSS]

Aye ...Ive use "no smoke" on 3 engines with no success whatsoever...so bob if it works for u should u use it let me know....

I have never had success with that product either.Maybe I used it when the engines were too far gone

[NOMOSS]

Do you guys remember a car called HALF BREED?

[d spike]

Aye ...Ive use "no smoke" on 3 engines with no success whatsoever...so bob if it works for u should u use it let me know....

I have never had success with that product either.Maybe I used it when the engines were too far gone

"Maybe" you say...

This "raising the dead" thing you like to do... it ent right...




(This is a fellah who had a room of engines, gearboxes and parts... you would have to open the door, climb up on top of 2 to 3 feet of Ford parts, and walk carefully, looking down for whatever it is you wanted (and don't slip, or you would end up being anally raped by a crankshaft or gearbox output shaft )

[NOMOSS]

Aye ...Ive use "no smoke" on 3 engines with no success whatsoever...so bob if it works for u should u use it let me know....

I have never had success with that product either.Maybe I used it when the engines were too far gone

"Maybe" you say...

This "raising the dead" thing you like to do... it ent right...




(This is a fellah who had a room of engines, gearboxes and parts... you would have to open the door, climb up on top of 2 to 3 feet of Ford parts, and walk carefully, looking down for whatever it is you wanted (and don't slip, or you would end up being anally raped by a crankshaft or gearbox output shaft )

At lest I kept those cranks well greased.

[nigie]

Aye ...Ive use "no smoke" on 3 engines with no success whatsoever...so bob if it works for u should u use it let me know....

I have never had success with that product either.Maybe I used it when the engines were too far gone

I am not surprised....thats why i told bob if it works ...let me know...

[king bob]

well i gettin blace smoke when i mash out, bt i goin an buy a engine kit an wuk some magic

[cinco]

black smoke yuh over fueling
carb/plugs/points

[MG Man]

no more scary pics please >_<