Moderator: 3ne2nr Mods
wagonrunner wrote:the buzzard already tell yuh what to look for.
Cheapest
If you are right in the bargain basement department of tuning, then there's not an awful lot to get excited about. However, the news is not all bad- the standard 32/36 DGAV is a good carb and capable of handling a fair amount of extra power.
Assuming you don't have to change carbs or engines then all the mods here fall into the Saturday afternoon "bolt on" category. Start by fitting a new set of NGK spark plugs and NGK plug leads, new distributor cap, and rotor. Once you've done this get down to a rolling road dynamometer and get the whole thing set up properly.
As you can see, what I'm really talking about is making sure your engine is at the peak of it's tune in more or less standard condition. A standard 2 litre engine can be expected to push out a maximum of 100-102 BHP at the flywheel at 5,500 rpm. If yours isn't, then try a compression check to make sure all four cylinders are up to scratch. It is essential to make sure that your engine is in as good a condition as possible at this stage before going on to do any further tuning. Otherwise you are just wasting your money and risk doing some permanent ( and expensive ) damage in a short period of time. If your engine is okay, then the simple changes I've talked about so far should net you a couple of extra horsepower for your trouble.
Before we move on up the spending ladder, a word or two about buying second-hand tuning equipment. If you are thinking about getting a cheap pair of sidedraughts for instance, do check that they have the correct choke sizes, emulsion tubes, jets etc. otherwise you will find yourself spending more than you paid for the carbs to get them set up properly.
Scouring your local scrapyards can save you a lot of money for sure and one of the things to look out for is an RS 2000 exhaust manifold (2-2-1 headers/extractors!). This will give you up to 5 BHP extra on a good engine with no other changes. If you combine this with a free flow exhaust system then up to 7 BHP extra can be gained.
Cheap
Assuming your local scrappy isn't awash with RS 2000's or you don't fancy the hassle, dirt and danger of clambering over five-high stacks of battered bodyshells, the Oselli reckon you should get one of their exhaust manifolds and systems, with this you can expect to gain 10-12 BHP. So presuming you didn't spend all your money in the first stage you should be able to see something like a genuine 115 BHP under your right foot.
Average
Now we are starting to get into some serious stuff as it is time to take the head off. If you are using a single downdraft Weber carb then shave the head to stage 1 specification with 9.5:1 compression... and combined with Oselli's AL 32/33 camshaft this should see the BHP figure climb into the high one-twenties, say 128 as a good figure to aim for.
(Actually, I have been told that stock Pinto heads can take up to 25 thou of shaving before you have to change your valves, springs and followers, but this much in one go for a beginner might not be a good idea. Try 18 or 20 thou... and use the toilet before you drive it!)
Cam lubrication has always been a problem with this engine so remember to change the oil and filter regularly and change the spray bar every 12,000 miles. When fitting the new spray bar make sure you use the special short bolt in the centre mounting, otherwise you can block off the oil way. If you fit an uprated oil pump you can find the rocker cover filling up with oil unless you fit a flow restricter in the supply side.
Nothing to do with lubrication but you should also reckon on changing the cam belt every 24,000 miles.
(The beauty of the 2 litre is that the valves don't hit the pistons, so a burst timing-belt doesn't bend valves... it just means refitting a new belt and timing the engine on the side of the road... take de people dem advice - change the belt when required, not when it bus'.)
Expensive
Carburettors come next... a pair of 45 DCOE sidedraught Webers. Don't use twin 40 DCOE's, as a good Pinto needs 34 mm diameter chokes and the largest you can get in 40 DCOE's is 33 mm. For really high horsepower applications twin 48 DCOE's will be required. When fitting twin sidedraughts always use one of the twin throttle cable set ups. With these you should be enjoying about 140 BHP.
king bob wrote:nah spike, d reason i asked cus i saw a bag load ah dem ting on sale.
cinco wrote:i going to get cuss from spike
but if you do want to change the engine a 12a engine and box are relatively cheap and give you a nice HP increase without the weight
cinco wrote:i going to get cuss from spike
but if you do want to change the engine a 12a engine and box are relatively cheap and give you a nice HP increase without the weight
nigie wrote:spike and about 150 people will cuss u cinco....
man put a "real" engine in the car ...if u want a fun car ....
cinco wrote:real engine?
it is a 40 yr old car and he has a limited budget
you think he can brace that car for the torque of anything more than a lil four cylinder?
nigie wrote:Spike u have a fairy God father....with those prices....do u know where i can get a good gearbox for a 2000 ford
king bob wrote:scrap men again inno (epic stupes). same ting happend by me d exact day after the guy literally gave d gb away i went by him looking 4 1, bt @ spike i called d guy and he gave me another numb 2 call bt i got tru, he said call in 2mrw
NOMOSS wrote:look what a FORD 1.6l does to a vauxhall 2.3 and a 351 chevy
http://youtu.be/kY5zdnGvT0c
http://youtu.be/kDAK4jBKmow
king bob wrote:lol yh i noticed.
THE BOB WILL FOREVER RESPECT A 1.6
on a lesser note the hunter engine up 4 grabs, (petty cash or trade) it needs timing (to the best of my knowledge)
d spike wrote:king bob wrote:lol yh i noticed.
THE BOB WILL FOREVER RESPECT A 1.6
on a lesser note the hunter engine up 4 grabs, (petty cash or trade) it needs timing (to the best of my knowledge)
That's a 1.6 BDA, eh... a helluva different beastie to the stock Kent (converted to OHDC belt drive, really just a fantastic cylinder head swap)
The BDA series
Cosworth increased its association with Ford in 1969, by developing a double overhead camshaft (DOHC) 16-valve inline four cylinder engine for road use in the Ford Escort. Working from the Kent block, Cosworth created a 1,601 cubic centimetres (97.7 cu in) for homologation purposes. The camshafts were driven by a toothed belt, hence the name BDA, literally meaning "Belt Drive, A type". Running in Group 2 and Group 4 on either rallying or touring car racing, this engine could be enlarged to a maximum of 2,000 cubic centimetres (122.0 cu in). The nominal homologation at 1,601 cubic centimetres (97.7 cu in) capacity meant that BDA-engined cars competed in what was usually the top class (1600 cc and up) so were eligible for absolute victories rather than class wins.
nigie wrote:Take a look at these (especially the second one). Bear in mind that the Chevy is a V8, while the other two are "four-bangers"... Notice that while he can pull away on the straight, he can't shake them off or outrun them easily...
Also notice that the v8 was leading the race for 99.61% of the time untill they were out of sight of the camera for 4 seconds (behind trees) and something happened...then camaro mystically lost control....
king bob wrote:THE BOB WILL FOREVER RESPECT A 1.6
on a lesser note the hunter engine up 4 grabs, (petty cash or trade) it needs timing (to the best of my knowledge)
king bob wrote:well i called the guy today and he said call him nex fri cus he hav 2 go pick up a coutrina, and i gettin it 4 a bess price.
so keepin in the old school tuner i may as well pass the engine 2 someone who needs it.
NOMOSS wrote:Projects associated with NOMOSS
Burnout with ford 2.0l stock cam ,Weber IDF's 44 X 2
Current Engine Nissan SR 20 ,I hate to say it but it kicks arse bigtime
NOMOSS wrote: Current Engine Nissan SR 20
:evil:NOMOSS wrote:Coming soon ..We plan to kidnap DSPIKE'S red Vauxhall and overhaul it.There will be lots a pics of the car and the big red rice-eater (probably in tears )..He will miss the rust and oxidized paint and worst of all he'll have to wash and polish it regularly.
nigie wrote:ANYWAYS .....RESTO COMMENCING JAN 2012....STAY TUNNED....![]()
Yeah ...this car is an excellent candidate for a REAL engine..![]()
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