Project S14.5 Spec R, Part II VE-T In the Making Page 26!!!

[.:PROZAC:..]

Hey J I haven't posted this but wanted to know if you'd like the TRUST cooler and relocation for the S14.

[TriniGT]

Is the is the thread pitch workable on the S15 block, I think the pitch is different from the S14. Did it come with both fittings?

[TriniGT]

So I haven't done that much since last time. I have kind of fixed the passenger side switch as after I repaired it it started to act up again but I think this time it may work but I am still after one. I also replaced the tailight bulbs as some of the double filament wedge bulbs were not working. So now I have a fully functional tailight setup, reverse lights too are functional. I already have my gearbox oil so this weekend I will be draining what is left of the gearbox oil and replacing it withsome Redline Smurf Blood.

My friend came and welded the leak, man the leak was in a really bad spot and was a poor job on the first garage that tackled the job. I could have seen straight into the car, nevertheless it looks to be fixed and after it was welded I got some caulk paste and smothered all the areas on the driverside to try and ensure that water would not get past it. It has been drying since Sunday so by the time Saturday comes it should be dry and hard so that I can apply some redoxide on it and then have the outer panel rewelded in place and that too will be treated with paste and allowed to dry and then redoxide applied again.

Once that is done I will get a fella to come and realign the front of the car with the carbon bonnet. Plan is to bolt the carbon bonnet and make sure it is straight and locking properly as the bonnet cannot be adjust. From there the fenders will be bolted and they will be adjusted to suit the bonnet's line. Once that is all done I will need to trim the front bumper to compensate for the Blitz FMIC as well as I will need to trim the S15 reinforcement bar that covers the FMIC setup to allow a proper flow of air to it. We will see how that progresses. I am going to do a final test on the leakign driver side and once that check out alright then I can rub back some of the surface ruston the flooring and prime and repaint it as water was settlign for some time in there. Then I will fit the brake pedal pin and refit all the rest of driverside interior and that should be it for the interior. For some reason the rear wiper is not working along with the rear water spray, I am not hearing the injector triggering at all for the sprayer, not sure why but I will have to troubleshoot the voltage going to the injector and see what is going on, shouldn't be too bad though. The wiper not working has me stumped but when I looked at the setup the connector is securely in place but there is a ground wire just hanging there, gonna further investigate this but problem is that I don't have any wiring info for the wiper setup as it is not in the FSM.

Other than those small items I have to get the brakes painted and installed and bled and all the suspension tightened up as I have some slack bolts underneath and then I need to get an exhaust installed on it and then I can set the car on the ground and adjust the stance. Then I will organize insurance and carry the car to the painter for a lick of paint. Oh I am gonna be removign the front windscreen again as I do not like how the universal molding is looking, a friend donated his old S15 molding to the car and I am gonna reuse it as it will have the glass fitting proper. When all this is done and the car is back from painting then I will add my touches like gauges, boost controller, Z32 MAF, power FC, wideband, change oil, oil cooler, oil filter relocator, Mishimoto Radiator and Black Mishimoto rad hoses, Aerocatch CF hood pins, stereo and the regassing of the A/C. Before paint as well I need to adjust the fenders to suit the wheels, maybe a slight fender roll in the back and a pull as well. I am still contemplating removing the center of the wheels (mesh area of the VS-XX) and having them stripped and chromed but I will have to think that over.

[wraith]

So I haven't done that much since last time. I have kind of fixed the passenger side switch as after I repaired it it started to act up again but I think this time it may work but I am still after one. I also replaced the tailight bulbs as some of the double filament wedge bulbs were not working. So now I have a fully functional tailight setup, reverse lights too are functional. I already have my gearbox oil so this weekend I will be draining what is left of the gearbox oil and replacing it withsome Redline Smurf Blood.

My friend came and welded the leak, man the leak was in a really bad spot and was a poor job on the first garage that tackled the job. I could have seen straight into the car, nevertheless it looks to be fixed and after it was welded I got some caulk paste and smothered all the areas on the driverside to try and ensure that water would not get past it. It has been drying since Sunday so by the time Saturday comes it should be dry and hard so that I can apply some redoxide on it and then have the outer panel rewelded in place and that too will be treated with paste and allowed to dry and then redoxide applied again.

Once that is done I will get a fella to come and realign the front of the car with the carbon bonnet. Plan is to bolt the carbon bonnet and make sure it is straight and locking properly as the bonnet cannot be adjust. From there the fenders will be bolted and they will be adjusted to suit the bonnet's line. Once that is all done I will need to trim the front bumper to compensate for the Blitz FMIC as well as I will need to trim the S15 reinforcement bar that covers the FMIC setup to allow a proper flow of air to it. We will see how that progresses. I am going to do a final test on the leakign driver side and once that check out alright then I can rub back some of the surface ruston the flooring and prime and repaint it as water was settlign for some time in there. Then I will fit the brake pedal pin and refit all the rest of driverside interior and that should be it for the interior. For some reason the rear wiper is not working along with the rear water spray, I am not hearing the injector triggering at all for the sprayer, not sure why but I will have to troubleshoot the voltage going to the injector and see what is going on, shouldn't be too bad though. The wiper not working has me stumped but when I looked at the setup the connector is securely in place but there is a ground wire just hanging there, gonna further investigate this but problem is that I don't have any wiring info for the wiper setup as it is not in the FSM.

Other than those small items I have to get the brakes painted and installed and bled and all the suspension tightened up as I have some slack bolts underneath and then I need to get an exhaust installed on it and then I can set the car on the ground and adjust the stance. Then I will organize insurance and carry the car to the painter for a lick of paint. Oh I am gonna be removign the front windscreen again as I do not like how the universal molding is looking, a friend donated his old S15 molding to the car and I am gonna reuse it as it will have the glass fitting proper. When all this is done and the car is back from painting then I will add my touches like gauges, boost controller, Z32 MAF, power FC, wideband, change oil, oil cooler, oil filter relocator, Mishimoto Radiator and Black Mishimoto rad hoses, Aerocatch CF hood pins, stereo and the regassing of the A/C. Before paint as well I need to adjust the fenders to suit the wheels, maybe a slight fender roll in the back and a pull as well. I am still contemplating removing the center of the wheels (mesh area of the VS-XX) and having them stripped and chromed but I will have to think that over.

nice, very nice.

[TriniGT]

Okay, got the outer panel of the leaking driverside welded shut and wirebrushed and redoxide applied to the area. Cost of the job was $50 and more than satisfied with my friend's work. Man even fix meh front gate and mother ole gardening spade too yes . Any way redoxide has cured somewhat and decided to put on the carbon bonnet and have that locking properly and then adjust the fenders to suit as the bonnet cannot be manouevre into shape rather the fenders will have to be. So far the driverside is pretty much spot on but the passenger side has a space that is really off, the front by the headlight is fine but the top by the door/fender/bonnet area has a big gap. I may need to spread the gap across the two sides to even it off and make it look better. That would entail grooving the bolt holes for the bonnet hinges and sliding the top of the bonnet over to the passenger side only at the windscreen side of the bonnet leaving the front secured. Overally it is taking shape. Here are soem snaps of progress thus far and most everything being aligned by yours truly. Please note the headlights need to be properly secured as well so the spacing between the headlight and the bonnet is even.
Driverside fender to door spacing, needs some slight tweeking


Passenger side gap

Doesn't look too bad and headlight inner side needs rasing to meet the bonnet flush,

Nice and even on the Driverside

The final shot, not too shabby IMHO ,

Here is a shot of how I got the coldside piping running and clearing the washer bottle, note hammer work was involved . I may have to redo the pipe as I may not be able to use my lower driverside fender shield with the pipe in its current location. Once the car is done I will drive the ca rover by Jimmy and have him refab the pipe to run above the washer bottle lower bar and have ample clearance with the fender shield .

Full interior is now in again and my brake pedal too is fixed with the pin and lock after much issues. Gonna tackle the front support bar in a bit to have it sitting proper after cutting the needed amount for the FMIC setup and then gonna mockup the front bumper to see what needs trimming, should be fun times . Realized that both my Greddy Sump and Oil Filter relocator are leaking, I may try a sliver of sealant on the relocator braided hose fitting and see if that helps but I know for sure the oil needs to be drained for the sump removal and cleaned and sealant applied thoroughly and replaced. Shouldn't be too bad. That's it for now, will keep the updates rolling as things unfold. Sorry about the pics, they are off my BBerry :/.

[DownesDigital]

wrd wrd wrd, go be seeing this car soon on the road

[Monk BANzai]

great development here....

[TriniGT]

Can't wait for it to be done actually. If I get time tonight I will be draining the oil and dropping the sump and cleaning it and putting it back up with more than enough sealant to ensure the seal is proper. Same time I will remove the oil filter relocator and see if it may be just the braided line fitting that may need a good pull to tighten it. I am almost sure the adapter is on good but the fitting I am gonna try again and wipe it thoroughly and try tumble and see if it leaks again, if it does again I may slacken both -10AN fittings and apply a sliver of sealant and reattach.

[R. Mutt]

coming together nicely. Sucks about the bonnet gap...hope the bolt trick sorts it out evenly. I have a question as you have always been a diy person on tuner.

I grew up with more of an interest in computers and as such I gravitated naturally toward that aspect of automotive tuning...i.e. ecu tuning. I started off reading, then practiced and at this stage I'm competant enough to tune certain cars as I've had enough experience. With regard to the mechnical side of things I never got that far. How did you get where you are in terms of mechanical work, disassembly and reassembly? I know you have been doing this a while, but like everyone there was a time you knew little to nothing...what helped the most in learning these tricks/skills?

[TriniGT]

Well honestly all my mechanical worked started from just being around the mechanic shop watching and helping like an apprentice as they changed fluids and did certain things. My primera was my first real project, I knew nothing about what to do with what. I spent countless hours on the internet researching but always afraid to dig up in fear that I would be down. I then started to change oil and filters and air filters, learning how to time the engine and adjust timing via distributor and how to reset idle on an SR20DE which most people still don't know how to do, they think adjusting the idle screw solves the problem but it just comes back.

Helped with my gearbox install a little and bought a B&M shifter and installed that for myself then I took the dive to go turbo on her. Car stayed by the mech for 9months. That hurt me bad and decided eventually to take back my car untuned and fix stuff. Mech told me that the used gauges and Emanage I had was faulty, I couldn't believe that I spent all that cash for faulty stuff so took the car home and decided after a week of frustration that I would look over the car. Realised that the Emanage was wired for a Honda so took the wiring out and after hours of research again wired in the Emanage myself. Got all my intercooler piping done over, met some fellas that helped with soem small stuff and tackled wiring the gauges. Upgraded the T25 to a T28 same time and on the first tumbled she roared to life. That gave me a lot of encouragement, guess frustration led me to 'try ah ting' and hey it worked. Got the car tuned and shortly after I bought this same crashed S14 project so decided to part out the turbo project after it was finally working proper and turn back the car non-turbo.

Did that job in one night on the back of my Hilux, yanked out the engine and took off the head, installed ARP rod bolts, and new bearings and high compression pistons back in and new rings and fitted it and the head and plugged the oil return for the turbo and engine was back in but problem struck, it needed a lot of feathering to move. Learned how to adjust the timing by timing chain/cam gear and crank. After several tries and the tooth skipping a couple of times I got the hang of it and unloaded the tensioner and everytihng was spot on and I could actually see the grooves on the crank and could time the engine properly. Installed a CAI and then eventually sold the primera and bought the S15.

At that point I was more confident in bolting on stuff and exterior work after doing some mild work on suspension on the primera and brake work along with some exterior things like wheels and some other 'bling' things so it came natural that the S15 would ge tthe full monty. Upgraded radiator, proper front mount with piping, extractor manifold, braided turbo lines, spark plugs, stereo, Nismo cluster, wheels, suspension, tailights, brake upgrade and the list went on. Then followed the ER34 GTT and this project. I don't know if I had got my primera back quickly if I would have dug into cars as much, I guess I have to thank the mechanic for giving the courage to DIY myself in the end. We still talk a lot and he respects me as he and I have come a long way. I have helped a couple of guys wire in Emanage blue and Ultimate but I have yet to get into the tuning side although I feel with this project I wanna learn on that side and I am more than sure the tuner will be willing to show me a thing or two.

[TriniGT]

I think once you do lots of reading and understand the main concepts of the engine and its limits you can build confidence from there. It is simple really, main thing with engine building is be very thorough about measurements and clearances and make sure that everything is very clean, double and triple check everything and mark everything on disassembly and label if needed and then move on from there. People laught at me when they see containers full of ziploc bags when I was scrapping my first RB26 project. The engine was a fully working engine but buying an engine foreign-ujsed and not knowing what it has and what condition it is in I decided to forged it and know in the end what I have. Sorry to say it still is not done but in time to come I will be putting it together myself , everything is bagged and labelled and put away and I am just waiting on the head to come back some time in life and then I will get busy doing my thing, using a pipette and parafin and plexy and checking CC in the chamber and whatnot. It ain't bad just read and read and read and eventually it will stick and confidence will grow. At least if I busted the engine it was my money and I did it, not that it was my money and someone destroyed it for me .

[R. Mutt]

Thorough response. I guess in time and practice then. Thanks.

[TriniGT]

Well looks like so far that I fixed one oil leak, so I can keep my oil relocator setup. I still need to drain my oil and remove the sump and reseal. Also, still need to fill the gearbox with oil, tighten some bolts for suspension underneath and fit the damn brakes!!! Next problem found, fitted the front stabalizer bar and there is a problem, the bolt hole for the link to fit it very exact and there are three optional holes to chose from. I looked at the original S15 ones and the hole is considerably larger. I may just widen them and chose one. Anyway, I somewhat fitted the front bumper and also fitted some of the original under bonnet rubber to the carbon bonnet that I never fitted before. Some pics and I still need to work on the bonnet to fender gap. Sorry for the bad pics, it was a night time shot with the BBerry. Oh and yes that is the sump oil leak below and yes level dog pee on the front bumper ,

[Yeo]

Coming along nicely Jason.

[TriniGT]

Thanks, fitting the sideskirts today and gonna begin elongating the S15 hinges so that the top of the bonnet by the windscreen can slide to even out the spacing and then adjust the front as well. The fenders still need to be bolted down securely but I just want to elongate the holes on the hinges first so that I have the adjustment then secure the fenders and slid the bonnet to suit. Bonnet locking mechanism needs some tweaking to lock easier as I find myself having to press too much to lock it. I have tried raising the locking setup but still nothing, sometimes is catches and other times it takes a while, not too worried as it is mechanical and I will figure it out.

Gonna try and make the sideskirts a bolt-on affair, but have to check clearances with the lower door as when opening there may be the chance that the door will rub on the skirting. The guy that attached the skirt before drilled holes and rivetted it on all how, holes were not evenly drilled so I am going to have the holes filled and then do some drilling myself and attach the skirt with gypsum screws, will prep the area before attaching them and will apply some some of sealant to the screws when fitting them at the final install.

Will be picking up a 3" exhaust setup off an R33 today hopefully and try to have it fitted to the car with my purple Apexi Canister Type barrel. Trying to have the exhaust fitted as high up as possible without knocking on the gearbox and drive and diff setup as the car will be kept as low as I can but same time still street worthy in regards to speedbumps. Gauges to be installed but that will come after the car is up and running.

[God Bless the Black Top*]

good stuff man. keep DIY fun.

[TriniGT]

Thanks it's been a long road but getting there.

[Monk BANzai]

evil looking front there man.......EVIL!!!

[swift gti funatic]

good work! coming along quite nicely

[TriniGT]

Well not much to update. It so happened that today I decided to fit my exhaust I picked up yesterday. Only problem I encountered was that collector pipe to the back of the turbo I had was screwing the entire setup and also that one of my exhaust hanger bolts snapped. Problem with the collector pipe is that the length of it was off and was dropping the downpipe too low and not allowing it to bolt direct with the gearbox bracket. Well I bit the bullet and decided back in with the OEM collector for now until I decide to begin upgrades like a nice top mount turbo setup.

Well the dis-assembling of the collector was quite tough and some blood was drawn and some cussing followed. After about an hour and a half the collector came off and took a hlaf hour to fit the stocker as I had loctite on the aftermarket one and put loctite back on the original one as well. Then had to go find all my original turbo and collector pipe heat shields and refit them. Once that was done I fitted the aftermarket 3" downpipe and everything lines up no problem. Cleaned the exhaust a bit but it still needs polishing and the tip will need a bit of modding like everything else I have.

The exhaust I have has a detachable tip which is blue burnt in colour and also has a silencer that can bolt on. The problem with the stock location of the blue tip is that it allows the tip to stick too far out of the rear bumper so I will have to send the tip straight back and drill the tip and barrel and run a stainless steel nut and bolt through it and then have that lightly tacked for vandals. I got the entire setup fitted but when tightening the rear exhaust hanger the flicking bolt snapped and now I am one hanger short. I will need to drill the bolt out and run a nut and bolt through it. Right now I am running a 2.5" gutted catalytic converter but eventually will get a decat 3" pipe to replace it. I started her up and checked for some leaks and so far so good.

I also removed the Greddy Sump and cleaned it and cleaned the lower sump surface and got some thinners on there and then reapplied silcone to the sump and refitted it. I have started the car and left it running for about 15 minutes and so far no leaks, will keep monitoring it on the jackstands though for the next couple of days while I work on the brakes and front stabalizer bar and soem other things that still need fitting. Still have to fabricate a battery bracket setup for the trunk as it is just in there. Will get pics of the updates as soon as possible.

[Picasso]

Glad to know you getting through.. I'm doing a small scale version of what you're doing. Put some pics of that exhaust setup

[Rooki3]

car looks mean!!!!!!!!!

[TriniGT]

Picked up these two bad boys, go the decat lastnight and the split downpipe for low riders tonight, hopefully everything fits like yam.

Gonna have to hunt for a Tomei/Greddy/HKS Collector/J-pipe to complete the full 3" exhaust or otherwise will order one.

[TriniGT]

Considering buying a Tomei exhaust manifold but really thinking about getting a GT3076R at some point so not sure if to waste money on it now and just get a good top mount mani and turbo later on. We will wait and see.

[Conrad]

Loving the downpipe. Looks quality.

Just a question TriniGT. I picked up a damaged downpipe recently for cheap and I'm looking to get it repaired (typical bashing from hump or stone). From all the 3" RB downpipes I've seen, where the turbo elbow meets the downpipe it is in fact approx 2.5"-2.75" and tapers into thes 3". Have you ever seen any that are full 3" from beginning to end that can be matched with an elbow off the back of the turbine that tapers to 3"?

[TriniGT]

Actually i have, once you can get a collector/J-pipe that has a 3" outlet then the downpipe is no problem, but like you said most come with a 2.75" that bulges to 3" right after the bolt-up. Well I could not wait so I removed the 3" collector pipe I had and 3.5" gutted catalytic converter and fitted the split downpipe and it fits pretty decent, only problem is that the bracket that it has sits in line but just earlier than the location. I will have to get a flate plate and make four bolt holes to line up the bracket and the downpipe, no biggy.

Tomorrow I am gonna pickup some star type lock washers and some high grade bolts and nuts form Lotec to button up the exhaust and put that to rest. The downpipe is hardly visible underneath the car now, really sweet. Must say thanks to Rashid on the downpipe and I mocked up the decat and it looks spot-on so thanks to Kevin as well. I may just widen the metal 2.5" gaskets I have to 3" and use them if I cannot find metal 3" gaskets. Tomorrow this will be one less chapter.

I just need to lineup the stabalizer links with the FLCAs and then torque them in and then torque everything under the front. I am seeing a leak at the back where one of my axle boots has a slit so I need to unbolt the axle and take off the dredded big nut from the rear wheel hub and slip out the axles and change the boot. Still have to get my brembos repainted and and then swap them on the GTT and swap the GTT brakes to the Silvia. I will drive the Silvia around the yard this week hopefully using my handbrake as the brake just to see how it feels and try to do some camber adjustments and adjust my height to suit. Then once brakes are done it's off to paint.

[legoRB]

aaah....the most welcomed updates IMHO.

Can't wait to see and hear finished product.

[16 cycles]

saw a widebody iteration of an S14/15 - white - coming onto mausica rd from a minor rd- good control as the back tried to break loose....then another white one on the same road not too far away....remembered this thread....

hope the build is going as planned...

[TriniGT]

Are you sure it was not Marsden's car. My car is still home on jackstands. We just finished my friends white zenki-to-kouki conversion and that is looking a treat with the white on white look. Just needs to have the rear bumper reflashed and it should be good as. My car will be going in the shop in the coming weeks so we'll see how it goes. The bonnet fitment still has me uncomfortable but the guy reassures me he will get it fitting properly. We'll see how it goes. Picked up my turbo timer and boost controller and a pair of defi BF gauges this weekend. They will be going in during the week along with a custom A-pillar setup. Wanna have everything looking stock but functional, eventually will get a defi DIN panel gauge setup for my Temp and Pressure gauges as I don't wanna use the Defi 60mm gauges in the A/C vents as one, I have a fear that the constant moisture from the A/C will eventually affect them and the same time I like my A/C center vents as it is gonna be a daily.

I mocked up the GTR wheels on the car and the inside is rubbing on the coilovers as I suspected so I will need a thing spacer to get them fitted to the front. Other than that I refitted my OEM FLCAs as I need the car on the road and the SPLs were a nightmare to fit, in went OEM and no fitment problems. Stabalizer bars fitted and torqued, just need to mount brakes and bleed and then refit front bumper and await painter.

[16 cycles]

^ not sure...if Marsden (sp) runs te37 or grids - then it was not the same car i saw....

the rear fender was covering the the tyre...i could be wrong - was a very brief glimpse

good to see the project coming along - learned alot from threads like these and emphasis for attention to detail