Ratsun 1200 Sedan - SOLD - New Photo added 08/12

[cinco]

ah ok
if i happen across any of those will let u know

[moti]

bez,


i have a KE30 corolla at my moms place in Arima.
car is really rot and the Diff is still there

you will have to change wheel cylinders/brake shoes ETC.
i'll give it to you if you want it, just call me 740-1780.

[Bezman]

hey thanks allot Moti! I am waiting to hear from speed as he says he has a 120Y one, and hopefully a swaybar too.. i'll definitely keep this in mind!

[moti]

no problem sir.
just helping out a fellow ole skool car enthusiast like myself.

plus i have no use for it as it cant work on my 71.

[bigchief3679]

noob question here eh, but wouldn't that choice of diff be a downgrade? the bearings, crosses, shafts are so tiny for the power you are making right now.

[d spike]

noob question here eh, but wouldn't that choice of diff be a downgrade? the bearings, crosses, shafts are so tiny for the power you are making right now.

want a diff that will bolt in now for now and keep the car on the rd

He just wants some instant soup to trundle around with, while he rebuilds some humongoid ape diff for it... just as long as he doesn't press the pedal, he should be ok.

[Bezman]

got a diff, and a 120y (B210) diff will suit me fine, remember i aint no drag racer so no set of hard launches etc...

[moti]

so bez, what you going to do with the original diff you removed?
are you installing an LSD in it or the welded diff will work fine so you are just re doing the brakes/seals etc?

[Shio]

doh have to be no drag racer to damage that diff
simple 3rd gear and press is noise after that
you will have to be very disciplined with that diff

[Bezman]

so bez, what you going to do with the original diff you removed?
are you installing an LSD in it or the welded diff will work fine so you are just re doing the brakes/seals etc?

plan to is rebuild it and fit a proper LSD in it from Nismo or something..
These H150's are stronger than you think, and this one was welded, ppl in Aus usually only start braking welded ones at about 250-300 ft/lbs torque and my CA18 aint even making more than 200 ft/lbs. NISMO ran the H150 (and still runs the H150) in the TS Cup and JCCA Racing in their 1200's and 120y's in japan, they made LSD's for them just for racing.. i think i'll be ok

I dont do big smokey burnouts everyday, i dont launch the car hard, and I am not comfortable enough in the car to start throwing it around like the altezza or S13 (yet)

[moti]

nice, i think i'll be welding mines until i get an LSD later on.

[Bezman]

So, last night while looking through photos from Berg Cup (http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=o.55560119461) I decided fudge it. I'm going to build a high compression NA.

So the search is on, if anyone knows of a RWD 4AGE 16v or 20v engine and box or just a Toyota T-50 (or even a K-50) RWD gearbox, please let me know.. If not I'll start to accumulate parts for a high comp NA CA18 with some ITB's.


(moti this where you tell me you have a spare gear box btw )

[trini mk5]

WHAT!!! Why the switch???

[Bezman]

cause i dont need/want 250hp+

my datto weighs about 750kg (and will weight 50kg less when i remove the CA and pathfinder diff)

I LOVE the sound of drafts or ITB's and everyone and their dawg has a turbo car.. and I have built and done a few so i already bored with it.. the more power this ca18det turbo makes, the more uncontrollable this car becomes, the short wheel base makes it nimble but deadly if not careful.. i want linear power all the way to high rpms...

~170hp NA all the way to 10,000 RPM is all i need and the car will be lighter, more reliable, cheaper to maintain and will sound like a mechanical orchestra

[moti]

So, last night while looking through photos from Berg Cup (http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=o.55560119461) I decided fudge it. I'm going to build a high compression NA.

So the search is on, if anyone knows of a RWD 4AGE 16v or 20v engine and box or just a Toyota T-50 (or even a K-50) RWD gearbox, please let me know.. If not I'll start to accumulate parts for a high comp NA CA18 with some ITB's.


(moti this where you tell me you have a spare gear box btw )

bez, would of loved to help you there, but i'm currently running a T40 on my car.
however, rumor has it that a charmant gearbox will bolt to the 4AGE motor perfect.
also, why not use a FWD 4AGE 20V? you will just have to make some allocations for the
distributor and extend the water lines.
4AGE 16V are kinda rare now in bamboo.

[Alpha_2nr]

will sound like a mechanical orchestra

This.

I'm curious to see how the N/A spin on this project turns out....but it seems like Unkle Bez has a clear objective in mind, so the end result should be pretty interesting

[trini mk5]

[quote="Bezman"]cause i dont need/want 250hp+

my datto weighs about 750kg (and will weight 50kg less when i remove the CA and pathfinder diff)

I LOVE the sound of drafts or ITB's and everyone and their dawg has a turbo car.. and I have built and done a few so i already bored with it.. the more power this ca18det turbo makes, the more uncontrollable this car becomes, the short wheel base makes it nimble but deadly if not careful.. i want linear power all the way to high rpms...

~170hp NA all the way to 10,000 RPM is all i need and the car will be lighter, more reliable, cheaper to maintain and will sound like a mechanical orchestra

I understand what you saying but a stock CA18 has around 180-190hp (i could be wrong) with a decent amount of torque, so it will pull the datsun real nice. Im all for n/a but you cant beat turbo for that get up and go power....but to each is own. I want to keep my car n/a also but sometimes i do wish for that power that turbo offers, but then i think about how the relaibility factor comes into play and it does go down considerably.

[Bezman]

well the 16valve 4AGE can be made to run carbs really really cheap with just a MSD ignition module and a carb manifold, re-route the water lines and viola.. no ecu's or wiring harnesses etc.

The 20v with the ITB's does sound interesting, but the wiring and sensors is exactly what i am thinking of getting away from, i want something very simple..

ITB's on the CA has been done before and seeing that the CA engine number is also on the certified already, it may be a smarter option, but I'll have to run/wire a megasquirt or something for that to run a map/tps instead of AFM..

I am really thinking a carb 4A-GE may be the way i may head..

[trini mk5]

So, last night while looking through photos from Berg Cup (http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=o.55560119461) I decided fudge it. I'm going to build a high compression NA.

So the search is on, if anyone knows of a RWD 4AGE 16v or 20v engine and box or just a Toyota T-50 (or even a K-50) RWD gearbox, please let me know.. If not I'll start to accumulate parts for a high comp NA CA18 with some ITB's.


(moti this where you tell me you have a spare gear box btw )

bez, would of loved to help you there, but i'm currently running a T40 on my car.
however, rumor has it that a charmant gearbox will bolt to the 4AGE motor perfect.
also, why not use a FWD 4AGE 20V? you will just have to make some allocations for the
distributor and extend the water lines.
4AGE 16V are kinda rare now in bamboo.

I know of a guy who put a fwd 20v in a box lancer, i think he used a charmont gearbox aswell. It does bolt up unto the 20v.

[cinco]

good luck with that one rwd 4a boxes are gold
why not an sr20ve then?

[Bezman]

cause i can buy 2-3 CA's or 4AG's for the same cost as one SR20VE and rwd stuff to make it work..

[Bezman]

ca18de manifold to adapt to 20v 4ag ITB's, its a oem CA manifold cut and the flange for the 20v ITB's is welded on..




CA build would require:

750 GSX-R ITB's or 4A-GE 20V ITB's (seeing some 20v itbs in the classifieds now)
12-1 Compression pistons (JE)
Megasquirt EMS and harness
Lightweight Flywheel & Clutch Kit

Optional stuff I can buy as I go along:
288~300* duration 12.5mm high lift Cams (jun and tomie and other/cheaper cams available, but i want to have a set reground, head someone locally was doing this, have a partner with a GA16 with a pair in a wagon, sounds awesome)
Tomei (blue) 9500rpm Valve Springs and Solid Lifters
Ported and Polished Head, Valve Job - $$$$
Adjustable cam gears (cheap ebay ones)
Spitfire coils

I saw some builds where ppl converted the crank sensor to a distributor, but i really need to do/see more about that.

I dont need to do it all at once.. good thing is i can buy a CA18DE head and do all the work while the working ca18 is in the car, then I can take out the motor when the car goes to paint, swap heads and install the megaqsuirt and itb's etc.. and run a new 16 fuse car harness as well and hide everything.

this may be the most practical thing to do...

[Monk BANzai]

GAORD!! FINALLY....N/A yo!!!

[Conrad]

Wait, so you're gonna spend a decent amount of money to get the ITB sound whilst making your car less powerful?

Why not:

Put the ITB setup on the CA18DET with management?

OR

Look for an Autech SR20DE?

[Bezman]

Wait, so you're gonna spend a decent amount of money to get the ITB sound whilst making your car less powerful?

Why not:

Put the ITB setup on the CA18DET with management?

OR

Look for an Autech SR20DE?

when allya youths go realize it's not all about speed and how fast i can go, I already built 350hp+ CA's and turbo motor.... it's more about fun, doing something different, the experience of doing things yourself and the glorious mechanical orchestra that carbs and itb's perform at high RPM



I dont throw away and hardly ever sell my spares, who ever the lucky bugger is that buys the car someday can put back in the big diff and turbo setup and enjoy driving in straight lines

ME, i want ~180hp NA, as simple a setup as possible... sorry if that upsets ya'll, but max hp is not the name of the game in a 700kg short wheel base car.. (for me atleast)

[trini mk5]

Less electronics the better!!!

[Conrad]

Wait, so you're gonna spend a decent amount of money to get the ITB sound whilst making your car less powerful?

Why not:

Put the ITB setup on the CA18DET with management?

OR

Look for an Autech SR20DE?

when allya youths go realize it's not all about speed and how fast i can go, I already built 350hp+ CA's and turbo motor.... it's more about fun, doing something different, the experience of doing things yourself and the glorious mechanical orchestra that carbs and itb's perform at high RPM



I dont throw away and hardly ever sell my spares, who ever the lucky bugger is that buys the car someday can put back in the big diff and turbo setup and enjoy driving in straight lines

ME, i want ~180hp NA, as simple a setup as possible... sorry if that upsets ya'll, but max hp is not the name of the game in a 700kg short wheel base car.. (for me atleast)

Don't get me wrong, youth has nothing to do with it and I'm sure whatever you do would be done well and all for the benefit of the Tuning Kingdom

BUT

A 4A Datsun isn't anything new, probably here in Trinidad but as someone mentioned they're rare.

You already have a capable engine and support for it, why not re-use a CA18DE(T) with the same ITBs or the SR with ITBs as I suggested.


...at least that's what I would have done. Making life easier while still getting the desired effect.



I rather enjoy MY car rather than try to be different at the cost of added expense and headache. Then again, some people build cars to copy what they see on foreign forums.

[Bezman]

A simple setup used in AUS is to slap on a pair side draft webbers or bike carbs, and ditch the fuel injection, either run some sort of Ignition Only ECU or ditch the CAS and install a Sigma Distributor as this spins the opposite way as most distributors (run retarted opposed to advanced) and swap the cam sensor rotator shaft for the ex cam gear so it can fix to the front of the motor where the CAS goes..



a couple users say the have gotten over 220bhp on these webber setups!!! (http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/vie ... mpost39331)

makes me want to do the swap more and more..

[Bezman]

lol.. no offense, BUT i think thats where you have it all wrong conrad, you are thinking of what you would do and not appreciating what i WANT to do..

I DO NOT WANT 250-400 HP in this car, hell it';s scary at ~200hp, I dont want a turbocharged engine.. simple been there, done that... 180hp is MORE than enough to sping the back tires, i would still be able to drift, solodex, enjoy spirited drives up the north coast road and on the way to toco and probably more so.. If i was doing what has been done on the internet, i would be staying with the CA or turbo motor.. I am doing the opposite, cause i want to.. simple..
if you look back through this thread, you'll see i have been talking of swapping to NA from day one..

sorry guys

turbo's are not in fashion anymore..

Bez

[trini mk5]

If turbo is not in fashion anymore...then how would ppl have fast cars??
since no-one really builds N/A engines anymore, they rather buy a turbo engine from wherever and install it and BAM you got 200hp. Quick hp i call it.
The art of actually building an N/A engine from the ground up is becoming a lost art-form in Trinidad, maybe because some of theses so-called "tuners" have no clue where to start and they rely on computers and big tobo to sort of the bugs....which is ok, but it doesnt require much skill IMO!!!
So bez congrats to you for being different and having the guts to do wat u doing.