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bleedingfreak
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Postby bleedingfreak » August 16th, 2006, 11:36 am

corollalover101 wrote:engine and tranny, that's the price they told me, but everything's negotiable


$2500 - $3000 seems a lil more fair...

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gt4tified
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Postby gt4tified » August 21st, 2006, 3:31 pm

corollalover101 wrote:I will link you, I find a Toyota goldmine


Like mankind like yuh promise nuh!

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V2NR 3.0
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Postby V2NR 3.0 » August 22nd, 2006, 8:08 am

Hey - Keep me in the loop for that Toyota Lime....I will be there.
:roll:

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Postby eliteauto » August 22nd, 2006, 8:24 am

iownacelica pm sent

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Postby gt4tified » August 22nd, 2006, 8:42 am

pm received....thanx meng.

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bleedingfreak
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Postby bleedingfreak » August 22nd, 2006, 8:46 am

Yuh know he ain't send me it yet.. and I arksed first!

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Postby eliteauto » August 22nd, 2006, 4:32 pm

yuh lie..........................uh eh um...................checkyour pm.......................NOW!!!!

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bleedingfreak
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Postby bleedingfreak » August 23rd, 2006, 10:07 pm

Thanks boss!

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Strauss
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Postby Strauss » August 24th, 2006, 12:16 pm

Anyone has a problem of the rims spinning in the tire when launching your gze slowyota? I think ended up busting another mount too. Think it has to do with my tires... 205/45/16 Goodyear F1. Grips alot but of late im getting rim spins. Tires walls going? They look fine to me and are fairly new. And yes Im launching like Im accustomed doing.

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Postby ninjaboost » August 24th, 2006, 1:14 pm

^^ :shock: I'd like to see this...
Last edited by ninjaboost on August 28th, 2006, 4:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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seanf3000
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Postby seanf3000 » August 24th, 2006, 1:51 pm

That sounding scary mike......... Those rims mounted properly?

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Postby Strauss » August 24th, 2006, 2:19 pm

The valve was lined up with the tire dot. I know I felt some jerking a few times not realizing after that the dot had moved. So I tested launching the car at about 3000rpm and lo and behold it moved some more. This I found strange since I don't get max boost till about 4000rpm.

I know when the F1's really start to GRIP, the tire is near its EOL but I don't think this is the case. Could bad suspension cause this? I know its common for highpowerd boosted cars to do this.. and maybe only with slicks but I have nowhere near that power.

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Postby seanf3000 » August 24th, 2006, 3:50 pm

hmmmm.... i dunno. You could try narend.....I'm sure he already run enough f1s down to thread. Maybe low pressure in the tyres, bad bead on the tyre. Kinda hard to pin down like u said on a car of your horsepower.

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Postby Corollaman » August 24th, 2006, 3:57 pm

corollalover101 wrote:I will link you, I find a Toyota goldmine


Makes me wish i still had my 'rolla :( :cry: :cry:

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Postby varung » August 24th, 2006, 4:08 pm

anyone can offer advice on mods that can be done to a 4AGZE stock engine.

and i getting a fuel cut at 6000rpm is there anyway to bypass this easily cause it sucks changing at 6000rpm with a charger.

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Postby gt4tified » August 24th, 2006, 7:01 pm

U sure is fuel cut? @6000rpm may be the limit on your supercharger ie, no more boost after that.

If its fuel cut then get the fcd...

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Postby Strauss » August 25th, 2006, 4:32 pm

varung wrote:anyone can offer advice on mods that can be done to a 4AGZE stock engine.

and i getting a fuel cut at 6000rpm is there anyway to bypass this easily cause it sucks changing at 6000rpm with a charger.


That's not right. You should be able to rev to 6500rpm at least. Later engines up to 7500rpm (but without boost).

You sure your tach aint reading wrong? That could be the case and you pulling rpm so fast you aint realise how much you REALLY revving if the tach is wrong. 1st gear lasts me about 4 - 5 seconds with a lazy pulloff (0rpm) or 3.5s - 4.5s if launched properly, that carries me to around 80kmph and well over 6000rpm.

You could have a gas delivery problem.

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Postby bleedingfreak » August 26th, 2006, 8:19 pm

^^ That could be a problem too... Dirty fuel filter, etc...

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Postby varung » August 28th, 2006, 1:42 pm

yeah i was considering that.
right now the tach is reading wrong, it reading 2 to 1 so at 6000rpm it reading 3000.

i may be getting the fuel cut at 6500 but i dont push it. i want to sort out that. and the fuel pump yes i want to organise that too. someone recommended a Walbro pump.

but it there anyway i can get it to run to 7500 and more. a pardner of mine in a Automatic honda SIR running out at 7500rpm and building real speed, passing me and all, although the engine has not been properly tuned i think.

STRAUSS you are correct, 1st runs out in 3-4 seconds and 2nd in about 4-5seconds. right now the car giving me 10-13psi but i think it can do better.
doh get me wrong it running real nice, just i expected more stock before i did any mods.

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Postby Strauss » August 28th, 2006, 6:06 pm

You could rev more, but you might get more power from changing gears than revving higher without boost and not going anywhere.

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Postby gt4tified » August 29th, 2006, 8:57 am

varung wrote:yeah i was considering that.
right now the tach is reading wrong, it reading 2 to 1 so at 6000rpm it reading 3000.

i may be getting the fuel cut at 6500 but i dont push it. i want to sort out that. and the fuel pump yes i want to organise that too. someone recommended a Walbro pump.

but it there anyway i can get it to run to 7500 and more. a pardner of mine in a Automatic honda SIR running out at 7500rpm and building real speed, passing me and all, although the engine has not been properly tuned i think.

STRAUSS you are correct, 1st runs out in 3-4 seconds and 2nd in about 4-5seconds. right now the car giving me 10-13psi but i think it can do better.
doh get me wrong it running real nice, just i expected more stock before i did any mods.


Ok, problem #1: NEVER, NEVER compare your car to a Honda!
When you've sorted out that and you realise that Hondas are high revving n/a cars whilst you my friend are blessed with boost then you can start to fix the next problem.

problem #2: Your tach ain't right....only 1 way to fix dat....repair or replace!

#3: 10-13psi on stock??? Strauss is that right? I thought that you guys got only up till about 10psi on high boost?

#4: Me and the mad scientists (Strauss & Trac) will have to see the car and then diagnose what ur problem iz.

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Postby Strauss » August 29th, 2006, 9:19 am

8 - 10 psi stock, depending on the generation.
The 1st and 2nd gen maps to around 16psi me thinks
While the 3rd gen maps to 12psi or 14psi

But while the charger can put out this boost stock, your ECU will limit it to around 10psi with the ABV while driving in stock config.

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Postby Strauss » August 29th, 2006, 9:29 am

iownacelica wrote:Ok, problem #1: NEVER, NEVER compare your car to a Honda!
When you've sorted out that and you realise that Hondas are high revving n/a cars whilst you my friend are blessed with boost then you can start to fix the next problem.


Yea man... thats right there. Honda's don't rev high as a feature... but as a NEED. If they don't rev high, they don't make power, given that on newer cars VTEC really engages after 5000rpm. The Toyotas make more power lower down.

With a supercharged car, you should be ok with a 6500 rpm cut. For now, work on making more power within your band or straightening your curve than worrying about revving high just 'because hondas do it'. Even if you find you tach up too fast as performace increases, you can get another gearbox with a wider ratio.

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Postby bleedingfreak » August 29th, 2006, 10:31 am

iownacelica wrote:
varung wrote:yeah i was considering that.
right now the tach is reading wrong, it reading 2 to 1 so at 6000rpm it reading 3000.

but it there anyway i can get it to run to 7500 and more. a pardner of mine in a Automatic honda SIR running out at 7500rpm and building real speed, passing me and all, although the engine has not been properly tuned i think.


Ok, problem #1: NEVER, NEVER compare your car to a Honda!
When you've sorted out that and you realise that Hondas are high revving n/a cars whilst you my friend are blessed with boost then you can start to fix the next problem.

problem #2: Your tach ain't right....only 1 way to fix dat....repair or replace!

#3: 10-13psi on stock??? Strauss is that right? I thought that you guys got only up till about 10psi on high boost?

#4: Me and the mad scientists (Strauss & Trac) will have to see the car and then diagnose what ur problem iz.


Preach it brodda! Preach!

If you want revs, get a Blacktop, and give (me) the GZE to charity (me) :)

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varung
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Postby varung » August 29th, 2006, 11:17 am

iownacelica wrote:
varung wrote:#4: Me and the mad scientists (Strauss & Trac) will have to see the car and then diagnose what ur problem iz.


yeah thanks for the info guys, nice to meet up some toyota diehards on what i see as a dominant honda site. lol

strauss, trac and iownacelica, do you all do your own mods and tweaking? or you all have you personal mechanics.

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Postby varung » August 29th, 2006, 11:21 am

Strauss wrote:
iownacelica wrote:Ok, problem #1: NEVER, NEVER compare your car to a Honda!
When you've sorted out that and you realise that Hondas are high revving n/a cars whilst you my friend are blessed with boost then you can start to fix the next problem.


Yea man... thats right there. Honda's don't rev high as a feature... but as a NEED. If they don't rev high, they don't make power, given that on newer cars VTEC really engages after 5000rpm. The Toyotas make more power lower down.

With a supercharged car, you should be ok with a 6500 rpm cut. For now, work on making more power within your band or straightening your curve than worrying about revving high just 'because hondas do it'. Even if you find you tach up too fast as performace increases, you can get another gearbox with a wider ratio.



are u talking about getting a 6forward gear box??

forgive me for the layman's language as i am now learning.

the gear box i have is very close between gears, does that anything to with performance or just reduces time between gear changing?

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Postby Strauss » August 29th, 2006, 11:38 am

varung wrote:are u talking about getting a 6forward gear box??

forgive me for the layman's language as i am now learning.

the gear box i have is very close between gears, does that anything to with performance or just reduces time between gear changing?


I dont like the 6fwd because the ratios just feel weird to me. My previous 5fwd was closer than normal but I liked it. But 5th didnt feel like an overdrive gear. I needed to put in 5th to get it past 180kmph. Pull off was much faster and used to rip tires changing into 2nd and 3rd. In 5th gear @ 80kmph I revved at over 3000rpm.

My present box is much wider. 2nd takes me up to 120kmph, 3rd to 160kmph, 4th to 200kmph. While I miss the pull off, I like the fact that the 5th is an overdrive gear so I can float and cruise. In 5th gear @ 80kmph I rev at the normal 2000rpm.

If you plan of putting out a lot of boost (if you plan to swap in a turbo), obviously you will run out of tach faster if your gears are close. Having wider gearing will allow you to make more use out of each gear. Or using a piggyback system or change the ECU to allow you to rev higher. I seen many guys on the tracks turn up the boost but didnt change the gearbox or the final drive even... so loose time on 1st and 2nd because they are hitting their rev limiter.

Those are just my thoughts. Everyone will have different opinions.

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Postby varung » August 29th, 2006, 11:47 am

well strauss for me, who now learning, it is making sense.

i trying the technicality between different 5fwd gear boxes but with different ratios and its effects.

when you say wider what do u mean?

i would love a gearbox that would take the same engine i have and do that "2nd takes me up to 120kmph, 3rd to 160kmph, 4th to 200kmph." with another gearbox.

are you saying just simply changing your gearbox can do all that.

cause right now i changing gears 1st - 3rd like ridiculously fast and then after it building but not as fast as i thought.

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Postby Strauss » August 29th, 2006, 1:29 pm

Wider.. meaning the gear ratios are further apart. On a close ration box, you will change gears faster. You might wanna check out http://science.howstuffworks.com/gear-ratio.htm to see what gives you a closer or wider ration.

While you want to change your gearbox and put in another where 2nd gear carries you to a higher speed, your accleration might suffer. But it seems that your lower gears are closer while still keeping a real over drive gear. While on my old box, my 5th wasn't (or didnt seem like) an overdrive, so I had lots of acceleration from 5th... and 4th was a pulling gear.

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Postby varung » August 29th, 2006, 1:59 pm

THANKS STRAUSS WILL READ UP ON IT

WHAT KINDA CAR AND ENGINE YO RUNNING BY THE WAY

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