Project S14.5 Spec R, Part II VE-T In the Making Page 26!!!

[TriniGT]

This thing has me seriously thinking. I want them,

And this matt Black has me itching for more,


We'll see when things start taking shape, like my Takata Green Smiley face .

[TriniGT]

Maybe in matt green though not the gloss colour. I may just matt green my Impul wheels.

[DownesDigital]

bess, good luck

[Razkal]

^anytime ah see takata green ANYTHING on a box lancer (locally) ah slapping you eh ST I doh care if is de driver drawers...typical trini's have no idea how to get a tasteful JDM look

[TriniGT]

Small update, got the car jacked up on somewhat makeshift stands until I can sort the flooring, the rear is mounted on double rims and the front with some huge Pricesmart Jackstands. I have finally gutted the entire interior and removed the pedals and dashboard metal support bar and all the wiring and the entire interior is stripped, no wiring. The front I began using the grinder with a wire brush fitting and started but the task was way too difficult so I went to the shop and picked up some painted stripper (the cheap mans soda blaster). I applied a thick coat on the entire engine bay to see what would happen and cut some plastic garbage bags open and covered the engine bay as suggested and left it for about 20 minutes. Meantime I got my ole trusty pressure washer and connected it up and then removed the bags to find wrinkled paint everywhere.

I attacked the engine bay from the top blasting forward so as to not get that much water in the interior and started seeing the paint peeling off. When done most of the paint was gone but as always there are going to have areas that need more attention as they may have either had more coats as well as more heat that bakes the paint on. The plan is to clean it decent enough and then use the wire brush again to clean it further but some places I will just do the best I can and move on. I have made contact with my boy to come and check out the setup and let him do his thing and run some magic welds on the enigne bay and the flooring and under panel of the car to strengthen the beast so that I won't have any worries. The cleaned engine bay is so encouraging and the fact that I can tackle the project at night with the proper lighting has me going now, must say much thanks to meh brethren that help me with the wiring of the lights.

Brakes have also been removed for the front and rear and the front crossmember has been dropped with all the suspension. Once the engine bay is done I will be using wonder on the entire thing to protect it from rusting and then further using anticorrosive as well and then hitting it with the epoxy primer, yeah I don't want it to rust. All the welds that were done before need neateing up so my friend will do it and then I will grind them flat and have them treated. The front will then be re-attached and fitment checked again and then I will have the guy come and install the bodykit for me. Once the kit is fitted I can then look at finally rubbing the car down and filling where needs it and then giving it a good first primer and then rub and prime and rub and prime and rub and prime. Then time will come for my choice of colour that seems to be up in the air but I still want to go with the white but we'll see. I may also have a set of rear over fenders on order as well, we'll seeas the wheels have yet to be fitted. Pics will follow once the car is in a good state. Exciting times ahead .

[Yeo]

Pic of the car on stands and also of the engine bay as is now...

[TriniGT]

Can probably get some pics of the engine bay in the current state but pics of the car on stands, nope. I wanna give you a shot of it when it gets the first coat of primer. I used Easy Strip as that was all that was available, bought a gallon from Tiny's as a starter, I will need a couple more and being as it is only $135 is is well worth it. The key is to pressure wash the area thoroughly after because you don't wanna leave any easy strip residue when primer goes on as it will eat the fresh paint. Turn out not too bad, will get some shots if I can manage.

[TriniGT]

Hmmmm,

Minus all the vinyl of course.

[wraith]

Thanks for the updates, was wondering what happened to it.

[Sheik]

Daryls motor worx...722-4787 he did d navin yellow s13...

[TriniGT]

Yeah I know, I spoke to Navin a long time ago. I want to do this as a learning experience so I may try and at least strip the car and have it stitched by a friend and then primered by myself and some other friends. The paint I will think about when the priming is done. The bodykit I will leave to someone that has good experience in it. We'll see how this goes but watch this space for sure.

[TriniGT]

Well got some small updates once again, got the front of the car stripped somewhat, used paint stripper. It was a long process, gutted the entire front and applied several coats of stripper and after several hours and countless burnt skin episodes I got most of the engine bay stripped. The pressure washer removed the bubbles paint without problems. Some places had to be worked over and over but it was alright. Still has some paint in hard to get areas but I will just rub and primer those areas. I used an angle grinder with a wirebrush to remove the factory sealant that was placed in between the seamed/tack welds from factory as I am preparing it for my friend to come and stitch it. The original garage that attached the front did not do a good job so I am reworking it and I am thinking about doing over the front area in front of the shock mounts, it is too battered to lok good so I may get a barrel and cut the cross-section and then cut it in half and use it as tubs for the front and then have it blocked and prepped. Once that is done I will have proper clearance and then have it all grinded flat and have the engine bay epoxy primed and ready to go.

The interior is in good condition the only problem I have encountered thus far is getting the S15 handbrake cable setup to bolt in the same stock location and be able to fit the S15 center console. The flooring too is getting stitched as I am currently grinding the flooring ends to have it stitched and plated to lessen the flexing and make the car feel more responsive. The rear sub-chassis has been removed and the diff dropped and I have since been working on mounting the GTR R32 diff in it's place. Problems I have encountered thus far is that the R32 diff setup has a four bolt rear end while the S14/S15 has the two bolt setup which is also rubber mounted unlike the solid mounted GTR diff, well I tried fitting the entire R32 sub-chassis and it was off by 1cm, I could have forced it in but nah, I could also get offset subframe bushings but I decided it was not worth it after doing some homework and realizing that the newer S14/S15 sub-chassis is a better geometry and allows for better handling of the car while the R32 chassis is better for drag setups, I wanted an all-round setup. So what i did was remove the back plate from the S14 sub-chassis and I am in the process of positioning the GTR back diff plate on the S14 sub-chassis. The diff will be bolted into place via the two front bolts and then the R32 rear diff plate bolted on and then have the plate welded into place, I want to make sure the diff is in proper position before any welding happens. the entire sub-chassis will then be reinforced with bits of angled iron so that the notorious arms do not become busted from power, all areas will be thickened to prevent this.

Alas, Christmas cam a little early for me, some of my parts that were on order came in. I got my CP pistons, custom Cosworth bearings for rods and mains, Tomei Oil Restrictor, Tomei Oil Pump, Tomei Fuel Rail and Cosworth Valve Guides. So my build can begin, block will be tackled first to get that put together, I am using the stock rods with custom bearings and also ARP rod bolts with the CPs, should be more than enough for my build, I want a streetable car not a dragster and I never really trsuted the Eagle rods, prefer the Carillo anyday but whatever. The sump is in the process of having the ends cut off and welded shut, not usign the RB25 sump as it is narrower and nmetal unlike the big aluminum RB26 sump. A Tomei Baffle is on order along with my Cosworth Headgasket and ARP rod bolts.

The head is getting a little work done, the intake is being just mildly ported and the individual throttles are also going to be gasket matched and so is the intake manifold as well, the Tomei metal gaskets as my template. The ehxaust is getting gasket matched as well and is also going to get a polish too. In the process I am also going to be tapping the individual throttles and doing the GT mod to have the air pockets removed from the cooling system. The exhaust manifolds too will be gasket matched and so too will the turbo exhaust housings. For now I will be using two upgraded R34 turbos but ultimately GT2871Rs. All lines will be braided for oil and water and the head is also being tapped for a direct oil return to the sump. The Tomei oil restrictor is being used to limit the oil being flowed to the head and luckily on the RB26 the other oil supply is already blocked. Reason for the restrictor is that the RB engines are known to have an oiling problem where the oil pump sends most of the oil to the head starving the sump of oil and causing spun bearings, the oil restrictor, head return mod and widened oil return galleries should help prevent this. I am also looking at getting an external Accusump setup to always keep oil pressure up on startup and for hard driving. Right now that is as much of an update, pics tonight if my damn camera stops giving problems, but so far things are progressing, yeah slow but I am still satisfied with the progress.

[Razkal]

bumpizzle

[TriniGT]

Haha, yeah no real updates yet but let me see what I can do. Block and crank was sent to the machine shop to have them both polished as my parts came in. I ain't gonna lie after selling the S15 I did not have the drive to continue the project, but when I finished making my last payment for engine parts and they came in I got back some of that enthusiasm. Swung by my shipping people and picked up the parts and checked them over everything was there all with some nice Tomei stickers.

So I sent the block for the work so I can begin the block final assembly ...... bad news the machinist called me and told me that cylinder one had a bit of rust that worried him and he recommended sleeving the cylinder. He said everything would be in order after that, he knew of my build and he said that he would try and factor it in the build cost by giving me a bredren price , thanks man. So now the block has been sleeved on that cylinder and the piston-to-wall clearances checked and rechecked and the first five good cylinders were spot-on, the last one now needs to be polished out to 1 thou clearance again and everything will be perfect. I have a spare block that has some damage that I am going to sleeve when I get some extra cash and I am also gonna pick up some used JE pistons from a friend and fit it to the other block as a spare, this will be later on down the road, that head will also get some porting done and the full overhaul but that is later on in the year. So I should be getting the block today and block assembly should be done by weekend after which the block will be lubricated and wrapped with cling wrap until the head is ready to mate.

Today I am placing an order for a Cosworth Headgasket, new idler and tensioner pulleys with new bolts and studs and nuts. I am also placing an order via Australia for new -10AN cam cover fittings and oil return fittings along with two new N1 water pumps and two crank collars. Colour scheme has somewhat been thought through and I am going with midnight purple cam covers, wrinkle black intake manifold, chrome individual throttles and butterfly setup and the Blue Tomei Fuel Rail. The block will be sprayed with something a little lighter so that I can detect any leaks I may have easily and the head will be going in a Duplicolor ground coat/primer metallic silver. The center coil pack cover will also be in midnight purple with the chrome Tomei Engine Specialist ornament plate. All turbo lines will be braided and manifolds heat wrapped.

The cam gears are Greddy Adjustable along with a new Greddy Timing Belt that I may change to a Tomei before it all goes together and have this Greddy for the other build. The clear cam gear cover will be the last piece to go on and merely for asthetics. The return line from the head too is braided and is tigged to the sump for a quick direct route for oil form the head. The block is also being fitted with a Tomei oil restrictor to restrict the oil flow to the head as the engine is getting a new heart with the addition of the Tomei 'million dollar' oil pump. Turbos still have to get in-line restrictors for them so that they don't blow within the break in period. The sump is going off today to have the ends cut and shut and after which the Tomei baffle plate will be added to help with the oil starvation problems that people encounter.

I already have an Apexi Power FC L-Jetro so I will be getting twin Z32 MAFs and the necessary piping for the intercooler pipe setup. I have located the intercooler that I will be using so I will have a next intercooler up for sale soon, the intercooler is 3.5" thick and it should do the job. The BOV will be a Greddy Type R BOV that I got off tarmacdevil and should be up to whatever I throw at it. The head is gonna be a while though as I am gonna be scrapping it down and having it decked and then rebuilding it with new gaskets and valve seals and at the same time having the valve clearances checked to factory spec and at the same time installing the HKS cams. Yeah plenty of work but at least I am stoked about it so that should help me carry on now.

As for the car, the guy has been scheduled to come month end to finish spot weld the engine bay and the flooring and from there I can finish prepare the car for primer and paint. I am gonna fit the side skirts and rear bumper and primer it with the car but the front bumper needs work so that will happen after and besides when the intercooler goes on there will be cutting and test fitting for sure. Can't wait to get the interior prepped and painted so that I can begin installing all the gadgets I got for the interior. I am removing the Air Bag setups and replacing the dash air bag setup with a motorized PC monitor screen, yeah I am installing a miniature PC in there which will have a touchscreen setup used for tuning the car and for some bling. The Defis will be fitted either on top the dash over the A/C vents or directly in the A/C vents and just use the two sides for A/C, it ain't a daily but I still want cold breeze, BITE ME!!!! I am still hunting around for two Bride reclinables, but not a priority right now. I have my new front windscreen and quarter glasses and all the plastics for the interior sorted, the center console needs some work to fit but I will cut and fibreglass it and it should be alright.

The fuel setup is going to be simple, a stock internal pump being used as a fuel pickup and then an external pump with a SARD Swirl/Collector Tank and an inline fuel filter. I may also get an ACCUSUMP setup for the oil supply to the engine but not right now. I am swaying to a graphite metallic colour much like that of the new corolla for the car with wide front fenders, pulled rear fenders, carbon Nismo quad vented front bumper and carbon rear trunklid. Later on I will be getting carbon doors but not in the budget. As for wheels I am using some staggered impuls with 8.5 and 9.5 for now but I am looking at 9.5 and 11 SSR's with a low offset and also in carbon, but that is a dream for now. Any way carry on, I am sure over the next year the car will take changes again but things are progressing.

Jason.

[Conrad]

Why the two Z32 mafs? Won't the Power FC be able to be tuned better via a wideband?

Is finding a high capacity internal pump difficult or do you simply prefer the external? I asked because someone brought it up in another forum where they said it is possible that the pump pushing the required capacity may at some point fail and the lack of fuel pressure may go un-noticed by the driver resulting in the engine running too lean for a period of time and eventually det.


Loving the updates BTW.

[TriniGT]

Two Z32 MAFs because I have an L-Jetro which needs the MAFs unlike the D-Jetro, and besides the MAF helps with a good idle. Well as for the fuel it was a suggested setup for my goal and is used for high HP cars as well. I don't want to chance anything after spending money like this, hence the reason for thinking about the accusump for oiling as well even though I spent $1300US on the Tomei oil pump. Best thing for oil is a dry sump but at $3000US + I will keep what I have. Also I will be using a wideband for tuning purposes for sure, it is a mandatory!!!

[Conrad]

Kudos to you and your build.

[Razkal]

noice

This man say "no real updates" and write a short story yes
Sounds like progress being made dawg, good luck with the rest of the build!

[honda hoe]

jason have real time on he hands to type dat jed

[TriniGT]

Secretarial skills come in handy .

[Zorak]

oye, is this car going to be legal on the road when u'r done? or is it just a track car ur building?
and, by chance u take down most of the pics? put dem back up nah bro
really enjoying lookin at the build cars on tuner like blueice s13

[tripleJs15]

Hey Jason you still have that s15 head you trying to sell ?

[TriniGT]

Nah bro sold it to brethren. Have some new Brian Crower Stage 3 cams though if yuh interested.

[TriniGT]

oye, is this car going to be legal on the road when u'r done? or is it just a track car ur building?
and, by chance u take down most of the pics? put dem back up nah bro
really enjoying lookin at the build cars on tuner like blueice s13

Oh definitely legal, it is a registered S14 kouki that has had a long journey, probably almost four years since I got the pram. Was originally bought as a rolled S14 kouki that left much to be desired, Hammy on the forum hooked me up with it and when I saw it is was a mess but on further investigation I saw that the chassis was good and it was really just a lot of cosmetic damage. Still waiting on the welder guy to come over to finish some welding and then I can begin my prepping process. Looks like end of first quarter hopefully, but it don't matter as I ain't rushing it.

[Zorak]

nice work TriniGT! Dis makes such good reading!

prb by the end of year might attempt to start a proj. Late last year went with the old man to check out a s13, it was in a real mess but i was ready to take it. the man with most of d cash say hell f*&Kin no! lol! As will smith said ' parents just don't understand!' hahahaha!

before the s13, went quite tableland to check and most likely take a 1st gen, no engine, PAA 7! When i reach , 2 days before d man sell it.

most of the pics on the first page not loadin! y'know everyone waiting for update pics

[tripleJs15]

Nah bro sold it to brethren. Have some new Brian Crower Stage 3 cams though if yuh interested.

nah i need a s14/s15 vtc bare head man, know anyone that might have one sitting

[tripleJs15]

Oh I have a new GT2871r sitting, and I would go with the Tomei MAP standalone instead of the Apexi, much better unit and you dont need a power excel tuner to tune it, laptop interface etc.

[Death-Row]

Zorak,paa 7 was in good condition boy i went to check it also to buy with a friend. came back home, called my mechanic, got an engine for it, went back the next day, car gone

[Zorak]

jeddd, Row, i still have some pics on my phone of paa 7! lol. i was doin some runnin back and forth mayaro and i stop and check it out. den d weekend i think i load up d whole family (dem want to go for drive! lol) and d man say he cousin take it. couva to tableland for nuttin

[Death-Row]

TriniGT,excited to see this baby finish keep up the good work meng.

Zorak,lol, say wah, what is for you is for you.