A172 Lancer RB20DET Project paused... new project c33 laurel

[Sanctifier]

this is where she currently sits... she stood up very well over the years no major rotten spots what so ever.
only thing is the frame rails are smashed up pretty bad, considering cutting them out and replacing.

If you don't mind a suggestion, BEFORE you remove major sections of chassis rail, you should either...
(1) weld braces to the shell (A, B & C-pillars, etc... + under-floor.) (Hard to do repairs but reasonable support)

Lancer82 GSR Boxtype_sized 14.jpg (107.45 KiB) Viewed 3691 times

or (2) clamp the pinch-welds to a chassis alignment bench... (Hard to do repairs... but optimal support.)

3ne2nr_150.jpg (76.81 KiB) Viewed 3691 times

or (3) bolt shell to a well designed rotisserie (Easy to do repairs... with excellent support.)

car1.jpg (28.64 KiB) Viewed 3691 times

If not the chassis may sag... and you'll NEVER get you car aligned correctly again.
The Lancer is NOT a very stiff shell. It has 2-piece chassis rails & large sections of rear floor are unsupported.

Lancer LT 07.jpg (153.03 KiB) Viewed 3691 times

IMHO option #1 is the most difficult... but still cheapest, unless you rent option #2, or better yet, make option #3.

NB: Remember to support the shell on axle stands before going underneath to do repairs (option #1.)
Dozens of people are KILLED every year when CARS FALL ON THEM!
My

[cookiemonstar]

thanks a lot Sanctifier... i do appreciate the advice im getting..

my frame rails arent rusted out or rotten but just pretty bent up. so im just conflicted on what direction to go, if i should just repair or replace.

[Sanctifier]

^ ^ ^

Option 1: Weld studs (old bolts) to damaged sections and get a body shop to pull out damage first...
Then use angle, c-purlin, etc. to "box" (reinforce) repaired areas (extend at least 3" more on either end.)
It will look like hell but will be strong (& cheap.)

Option 2: Use new metal of the same gauge or thicker...
Use support option #1 or #3 to brace shell...
Fabricate (& bend) rails to match originals...
Drill out spot welds... & swap chassis rail sections, secure with new plug welds...

IMHO you should get "professional" help (if they have equipment) for 2nd option, before you "screw up" your good shell.

After either option, weather proof with "3M sealers" etc... Temporarily seal ALL threaded holes, drain holes etc...
FILL with FoamSeal or Terocore to eliminate future (chassis rail) rust...
[Use in rocker panels + A & B pillars to eliminate rust!...
Run wiring externally or fit conduit first or wires will be 'buried' forever.]
Expanded urethane foams (use type for Autobody use ONLY!) do a GREAT job of stiffening the shell too!

btw... IMPORTANT... & CHEAP!
Google "Dust Free Blasting" before starting bodywork. It uses a US $55.00 adapter added to the wand of a gas-powered pressure washer, that siphons media (e.g. recycled glass @ US $10.00/50 lb bag) from a container to "sandblast" the shell with NO DAMAGE to the shell!! Best Results: Strip car first and blast inside & out before bodywork!
It's the cheapest, easiest & most affordable "green" option available to diy tuners so far.
NB. You need to protect your skin, eyes & lungs when using the blaster; so... a full body suit with hood, face mask & good particulate respirator is required.

Link--> North Star Water Blaster.

My

[cookiemonstar]

awesome!! thanks for the info!

[Sanctifier]

^ ^ ^ btw... Do NOT weld zinc-coated metal without removing coating with Muriatic Acid overnight first!
You risk getting nervous system damage (or worse) from Metal Fume Fever...
DO NOT wire-brush or grind zinc coating either.
I posted details here... Link--> Old School Projects - Pg 32.

My

[cookiemonstar]

great info sanctifier thanks, but i was aware of the fumes and stuff not being safe.

but i didnt know u cant grind it either? i thought i could just grind off the areas i was gonna weld??

[cookiemonstar]

another thing i was thinking of, do you think its a good idea to "box" over a new frame rail over the existing one? that might save me the work of cutting out the old one and so on....

just a thought.

[Sanctifier]

^ ^ ^ Yup, that's "Option 1" above (20/07/15)...
IMHO the 'box' should also include flanges on either side (slightly wider than originals)... with small holes through the entire structure... then plug welded, 'dressed' with a grinder & 'sealed' (3M?) afterwards.

My

[cookiemonstar]

sounds like a plan!

from my research, it states that the car should be on all four wheels to allow the natural flex of the car.
i can place jack stands under the rear axle but, im a bit skeptical of doing the same under the front control arms. doesn't sound too safe.

if i do decide to do that i will place two more stands under the front cross member, not to hold the weight but to be there in case the other two fails.

[Sanctifier]

^ ^ ^ SUPPORT: This is a reasonable alternative if you don't have access to a rotisserie...
A bit tedious to fabricate... but it offers reasonable "under wheel" chassis support, you'll have...

"Under-wheel" support... SAFETY!... with some access & working room.
... and your extra axle stands under the rear axle & front cross-member won't hurt either.

Just remember you can't remove big sections of chassis rail because you have no 'pinchweld' support, so you'll still get chassis sag.

btw... if the car is "on the wheels" for chassis repair... it should be at OEM weight. i.e the engine & full drivetrain should be installed; with weight added for the previously gutted interior too.

My

[X_Factor]

the mitsu vr4 strut bar works with some minor mods on the lancer
it looks pretty good when its installed as well, will try to get a pic to show u

[X_Factor]

Here

[Ted_v2]

Pretty good actually.

[cookiemonstar]

^ ^ ^ SUPPORT: This is a reasonable alternative if you don't have access to a rotisserie...
A bit tedious to fabricate... but it offers reasonable "under wheel" chassis support, you'll have...

IMG00072-20121218-1818.jpg

"Under-wheel" support... SAFETY!... with some access & working room.
... and your extra axle stands under the rear axle & front cross-member won't hurt either.

Just remember you can't remove big sections of chassis rail because you have no 'pinchweld' support, so you'll still get chassis sag.

btw... if the car is "on the wheels" for chassis repair... it should be at OEM weight. i.e the engine & full drivetrain should be installed; with weight added for the previously gutted interior too.

My

damn... everything is out the car at the moment lol

[cookiemonstar]

Here

ill let you know soon Factor

[cookiemonstar]

anyone know where i can get sheet metal in the san juan area?? i bought a few half sheets a while back but i cant remember where in the el socoro area.. been calling around without any luck... i would prefer a place that specializes in metal as i would need quite a few different gauges..

[nemram]

Mustapha's Hardware in Mary Lane - side street (east) of Pillai home center has steel sheeting. I think its 674-4063

[cookiemonstar]

Mustapha's Hardware in Mary Lane - side street (east) of Pillai home center has steel sheeting. I think its 674-4063

thanks man i gave them a call, they have some of what im looking for. so i'll check them out.

thanks again.

[cookiemonstar]

alright guys... ive decided to put the box lancer project on pause and use that poor RB20DET that has been sitting for a while now. pics up soon

[cookiemonstar]

new project c33 medalist..

i will still continue with the lancer. maybe now i can go a little more extreme with it?