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3stagevtec wrote:From my research, the stock regulators on the older VT Hondas are not mosfets.. i'll get the part number to verify when I get home
Then, I read about so many members having to install a new stator as theirs had gone bad, and was also going to install an after market, higher output stator to keep my battery charged with more power. Mine charging system was only sending 12.5 or so volts to the battery at idle and even less when reved up, so I thought the stator was bad...WRONG. My stator tested just fine.
It's also suggested on some sites to replace the voltage regulator when replacing the stator, so I figured my regulator was the problem and I was right. The stock regulators are not very good regulators and don't work very well. They get way too hot and don't send enough power to the battery, and not only that, they make the stator run hot, eventually burning the wires on them, taking them out.
So I did some research and found the answer to our charging problems. It seems it's not the stator not putting out enough power, it's the voltage regulator not sending enough power to the battery, running too hot by it's very design and from the stock wiring harness using too thin gauge wires between the regulator and the battery.
I found the Mosfet type regulator to be alot better regulator. It runs cooler and sends alot more power to the battery. It's found on the Yamaha R1 sport bikes, as well as some Roadliners, ATVs and snowmobiles. The part number is FH012aa, which shows it's a Mosfet style regulator. Our stock regulators are SH models and send the extra power to ground, which is why they run very hot and don't work very well to keep the battery fully charged. That's is probably why they eventually take out the stator from over heating too.
Here is the SIGNIFICANT difference - this new R/R is SERIES - not SHUNT!!
Why is that of benefit?
The difference between Series & Shunt is that:
Shunt - the Stator always has to apply maximum generated current - when the R/R is in regulation it shorts across the winding to 'shunt' current away from the load directly back to the stator. In an SCR (OEM) Shunt Regulator the SCRs get extremely hot and they ultimately burn out if that heat is not adequately cooled - that is why OEM needs to up front directly in the cooling path.
Because of the way it operates, if you reduce the system load (e.g. turn off the lights) the R/R will actually have to shunt MORE current and will run hotter - but the stator load is the same regardless of whether the current is going to the load, or back through the SCR's.
Series - this is fundamentally different in that in a Series design, instead of diverting (shunting) excess current back to the stator to control the output voltage, the regulation works by interrupting the current path to the load. This means that the Regulator ONLY supplies current demanded by the load itself, and no excess current parallel path through a shunt. So the net result is that this type of Regulator is MUCH kinder on the stator because the stator is always supplying much less current! So the stator does not get so hot and its reliability increases significantly.
The fact that it has SCR's is not quite so problematic as in the Shunt application, because they are flowing less current and for a shorter duration. So they will not get as hot as when used in shunt mode.
This particular unit is a Shindengen SH775 regulator and is used on Polaris models.
It is VERY inexpensive - brand new -
e.g. $73 shipped!!!! ($60 & change plus shipping)
http://polarisparts123.com/partnumber-search/ (enter 4012941)
Polaris REGULATOR-3PH,35A,SERIES,105C for 2011 Polaris R11HR76AG/AR RANGER 6X6 800 EFI 4012941
(or wherever else you can source Polaris parts)
kdere wrote:Where u from? Riding with any groups?
Ruff wrote:Helluvan update 3stagevtec
I get carried away sometimes! 
Nissian for life wrote:Ok guys im newb in the bike scene seriously considering it as an option and would like to know what insurance would cost me I'm 19 ...
A concerned citizen would like to highlight the following accident which occurred a short while ago, near the Fernandez Compound. Let's hope there were no fatalities.
3stagevtec wrote:I'd like to get some advice on the following scenario..
I was parked in a line of traffic (off ramp into Gasparillo, right lane turns right), about 8 cars from the front waiting to turn. I stopped to the left of the right lane, so I would be more visible to cars behind and so that they wouldn't mistake the gap in traffic for an empty space. Traffic wardens were present on the junction ahead.
An older gentleman in the car behind had sound his horn and signaled for me to overtake the line and move up to the front. I saw him explaining something to his passenger after he had signaled me. I chose to stay in the line and wait it out like everyone else. I wasn't able to talk with the guy to get the reasoning behind his intentions.
What would you have done in such a scenario? What is the RIGHT thing to do? What is the SAFE thing to do? I'd like to hear your opinion.. I am new to riding, 3 months experience so far.
3stagevtec wrote:Usually if the line of cars extend up to the highway, I would pass the line and move up to the front. I don't want to be sitting in a line of traffic next to cars travelling at high speeds.
Outside of that, I tend to stay in traffic and play it safe.
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