wrx vs evo

[Ï]

Sooo.. we know all the specs and syit now for both the evo X and the STI, so which one you think winning when we run dem ???

[Maserati]

lol let Best Motoring and Top Gear decide that for us..as well as the tiff(banzi )

[Ï]

oh come nah man... Fawaz or Lochan or Dave en bringing no evo X or STI anytime soon.... so use ur imagination ..lol

[Maserati]

i biased to scoobies so the sti all the way

[adri 2nr]

this go be a longggggggggggggg thread

[cinco]

waste of time
sumone shud delete this thread

[equipped2ripp]

[b]Ï

[RichieRich]

Ï

[Maserati]

[lancer_noobs]

waste of time
sumone shud delete this thread

agreed
we all kno the ans

[Samo]

*sighs*
of to ole torque

[Ï]

ey ey ey take all yuh time ... wam to all yuh jed??? .... [not speaking totally on my behalf rite now but] I know it have some die hard evo fans out dey....i mean out here...

[RASC]

walks in thread *yawn* walks back out...

[equipped2ripp]

i surprised this eh get deleted yet

[cheese pie]

i know evos will cost less to get more HP out of them but them transfer casses i dunno if i have that much of a deep pocket but on the other hand if i keeping it relativly stock , i think ah sti with some water injection , tuning , boost controller and ah "lil" bigger turbo would be more than what i would need

[Alpha_2nr]

i know evos will cost less to get more HP out of them but them transfer casses

How do you figure that? ever tried it?

i think ah sti with some water injection , tuning , boost controller

Please. Boost controller my foot. Engine Management or EcuTEK/COBB/Xede maybe.

[cheese pie]

no i never tried it but i read about it , and with my budget reading is all i can do

and when i spoke of tuning i mean some sort of engine managment either piggy back or stand alone , which ever i could afford after forking out the amount i would spend on 2 lots of land in a nice area for a car.

[Sanctifier]

i know evos will cost less to get more HP out of them but them transfer casses

How do you figure that?...

i think ah sti with some water injection , tuning , boost controller

Please. Boost controller my foot. Engine Management or EcuTEK/COBB/Xede maybe.

Why no electronic boost controller as first (buget) alternative knight?
Maybe that, together with ECU Flash will be much cheaper alternative for either car?
Low boost for general use and hi-boost for fun? What particular issues against EBC?

BTW pie Evo transfer case isn't the biggest drivetrain problem.
For drag launches AYC is more fragile in Evo GSRs IMHO.
Front helical LSD from Evo RS or Quaife LSD solves transfer case issue, but it costs $$.

My $0.02¢

[Alpha_2nr]

Why no boost controllers? Simple...overboost....

This is taken from an article off of wrxtuners.com....

Your computer is programmed from the factory to control the boost that the turbocharger makes based on RPM and load (how hard the engine is working). It takes those two factors into account and determines how much fuel to put into the engine to reach a desired AFR. It also adjusts your timing to get the best performance while still avoiding knock (detonation).

Partial throttle full boost is the biggest danger associated with boost controllers. We have already discussed how the ECU regulates boost based on rpm and load. A boost controller does not factor load or rpm into the equation. It works on pressure only. It will allow your turbo to reach full boost at 3000 rpm or 7000 rpm. And, it will allow it at 10% load or 100% load, or anywhere in between. At full throttle it may be okay, because the computer is still adding the fuel it thinks the car needs. But, at partial throttle it is adding very little fuel, because it thinks the car is only making a small amount of boost, which leads to extremely lean conditions. I have seen AFR's in the 19:1 range pretty commonly with a boost controller at partial throttle.
So, just say no to boost controllers.

In a nutshell, the ECU map factors load, rpm, gear and other such conditions, when adjusting/manipulating boost for your car...as such, on a stock map (from my limited experience), you don't hit full boost on mud range rpm in a lower gear...say.


A boost controller is an option, don't get me wrong, but it's not the safest option, if you don't know how to use it properly. Just "turning up the boost" (like a volume control on your radio), can ultimately cause the engine to lean out on higher revs due to the improperly matched air:fuel........

Maybe that, together with ECU Flash will be much cheaper alternative for either car?

Why use an ECU flash and a boost controller...that's almost a bit redundant.

You can raise your boost by doing an ECU refalsh...by adjusting wg settings etc etc...and that would be the safer route, as you can factor load, rpm, ign etc into that...and thus build a "safer" way to run your car on elevated boost (takes the guess work out when using a boost controller IMO).

But...at the end of it all, I'm sure you're gonna disagree with me anyway Sanctifier...so...say what

[Alpha_2nr]

BTW pie Evo transfer case isn't the biggest drivetrain problem.
For drag launches AYC is more fragile in Evo GSRs IMHO.
Front helical LSD from Evo RS or Quaife LSD solves transfer case issue, but it costs $$.

Any issues with clutches etc? Just asking

[cheese pie]

BTW pie Evo transfer case isn't the biggest drivetrain problem.
For drag launches AYC is more fragile in Evo GSRs IMHO.

if i ever buy ah evo or sti bet your bottom dollar i aint launching it hard

now schooling civics round the savannah , well..............................

[Sanctifier]

Why use an ECU flash and a boost controller...that's almost a bit redundant.

You can raise your boost by doing an ECU refalsh...by adjusting wg settings etc etc...and that would be the safer route, as you can factor load, rpm, ign etc into that...and thus build a "safer" way to run your car on elevated boost (takes the guess work out when using a boost controller IMO).

But...at the end of it all, I'm sure you're gonna disagree with me anyway Sanctifier...so...say what

Take it easy, padna. I asked for your opinion, it wasn't an excuse for an argument.
I wouldn't use an EBC to turn up the boost... but to turn it down.
Yup, different... but IMHO (as a buget option only) if I can't afford another EMS then tune
for realistic, safe maximum at high boost level (ECU Flash)... then use EBC to lower boost
when crusing especially on a hot day.... at least until I could afford Water/Meth Injection. Comments please knight.

Any issues with clutches etc? Just asking

Opps!... I forgot. Yup plenty. OEM clutch is like boiled macaroni...
n.f.g. for "spirited" launches in the "traffic light Grand Prix."
Tried HKS "twin" in an E6 already. Didn't like it. Light-switch... ON... or OFF... no feathering.
That's why I broke the bank and went to cerametallic, twin-plate Exedy.
Only 8-10 lb heavier pedal than stock. Feather all day long. Hills etc. no issues
... but for the rest of the drivetrain, the AYC may be weaker than transfer case IMHO.
After driver control, that's the main reasons I choose an RS instead of a GSR... strength, reliability and easy maintenance.

My $0.02¢

[Alpha_2nr]

Take it easy, padna. I asked for your opinion, it wasn't an excuse for an argument.
I wouldn't use an EBC to turn up the boost... but to turn it down.

Who's arguing LOL.

Yup, different... but IMHO (as a buget option only) if I can't afford another EMS then tune
for realistic, safe maximum at high boost level (ECU Flash)... then use EBC to lower boost
when crusing especially on a hot day.... at least until I could afford Water/Meth Injection. Comments please knight.

I think you're right about this....BUT.....cruising around on lowered boost kinda defeats the whole purpose of having an Evo/WRX/whatever else to begin with. Yes, the EBC is cheaper, but IMO, it messes with the whole "safety of the engine" thing...too much risk (if you crank it up)....water/meth injection shouldn't cost that much (relatively speaking)...and is a safer bet..and will allow one to leave the car at stock boost.

Also, turning down boost doesn't necesarily mean that the car will be "knock free". It can still knock, even on lowered boost, depending on the car's individual requirements, and of course, the quality of gas (that's a whole other issue right there).

Additionally, now I cant speak for the Evo guys (comments Sanctifier?) but running an EBC which messes with the ECU's "boost" signal can affect the "learning" ability of the Scubie ECU (I am subject to correction on that). Mind you...the "learning capability" is quite potent IMO (for street driving results anyway).

However, an EMS or a reflash would be ideal..but as you said..the cash is the problem. I've had excellent results with a "re-tune", but this is only good if you know that you won't be changing ur engine/power mods frequently. Otherwise...EMS fuh dem!

[Alpha_2nr]

Opps!... I forgot. Yup plenty. OEM clutch is like boiled macaroni...
n.f.g. for "spirited" launches in the "traffic light Grand Prix."
Tried HKS "twin" in an E6 already. Didn't like it. Light-switch... ON... or OFF... no feathering.
That's why I broke the bank and went to cerametallic, twin-plate Exedy.
Only 8-10 lb heavier pedal than stock. Feather all day long. Hills etc. no issues
... but for the rest of the drivetrain, the AYC may be weaker than transfer case IMHO.
After driver control, that's the main reasons I choose an RS instead of a GSR... strength, reliability and easy maintenance.

Interesting....I've heard similar stuff from "other" Evo owners as well (int'l). However, I have a question on this:

Won't you run the risk of putting more strain on your gears/synchros etc by using a clutch which has more "grip" than stock? The way I see it is that when the clutch "bites" harder...yes it's great for launches on the strip, but it transfers all that shock to the gearset anyways...which means more wer and tear, and greater risk of breakage. IMO, that type of driving would require a cryo-treated gearset, or better yet, a "dogbox" for better results/more longevity (the latter has no synchros to get busted to begin with..the former has stronger gears).

That's one reason why I never launch my car. And I stick to the stock Daikin/Exedy clutch too

[Maserati]

good discussion

[Sanctifier]

...Won't you run the risk of putting more strain on your gears/synchros etc by using a clutch which has more "grip" than stock? The way I see it is that when the clutch "bites" harder...yes it's great for launches on the strip, but it transfers all that shock to the gearset anyways...which means more wer and tear, and greater risk of breakage. IMO, that type of driving would require a cryo-treated gearset, or better yet, a "dogbox" for better results/more longevity (the latter has no synchros to get busted to begin with..the former has stronger gears).

That's one reason why I never launch my car. And I stick to the stock Daikin/Exedy clutch too

Yup knight you're quite right. It does put more load on the rest of the drivetrain.
That's why I prefer the RS model to the GSR... Tougher... more reliable in competition.
BTW no special treatment (cryo etc.) necessary up to 700 bhp+ on OEM gearbox
... "dog box" has to be over $40,000 TT... Much too hot for my blood.
Not needed for my mild state of tune either.
All I did was buy a used RS box and transfer case for insurance...

Sorry, but just can't help sticking my big foot in it I'm afraid.
Waited for years until an RS came along... Now finally upgrading to "reasonable" level...
Intend to enjoy every minute of it...

[Yup, I admit it... My Bad!]

[scientist]

If memory serves me right..boost controllers can't turn Boost lower than the wastegate.

Depending on what EBC it is...it has better control over boost than the factory EMS. Some of the HIgh end boost controllers help reduce boost creeping and boost spikeing much better than the ECU can

[Sanctifier]

^ ^ ^ Yup that's right... but not interested in running at wastegate pressure on the street. Even the newer Evo 9 wastegate actuator is only 11 psi AFAIK.
That's no fun. It's a simple Profec B Spec II EBC. Looking for optimum safe tune first (with Water/Meth injection + "failsafe")... then maybe lower by 5-6 psi (occasionally.) That's more than enough.

[Sanctifier]

now schooling civics round the savannah , well..............................

BTW cheese pie it wasn't a Civic... It was a Subbie.
Failing OEM clutch... Jerninghan Ave. traffic light... Two extra passengers.
... Bye bye Subbie... Bye bye clutch. That's why I went Exedy.

[equipped2ripp]

http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Dr ... eId=109126