A31 or C32..?

[corn curls]

Between the selection : A31 cefiro and C32 Foreign no post laurel.... which is the better one to use as a chassis for a project to hold a RB25det NEO which i'm planning to upgrade to about 450 hp....I'm thinking in terms of suspension and brake upgrades... and i'm hearing a rumour that the laurel is heavier as well..? what parts are interchangeable with R32/R33 etc...tuners step forth... as i wanna get this of the ground asap...please

[BlueIce]

the a31 would be a better lookin swap! i'll tell u that much...and i've seen alot of them with skyline brakes.

[Bezman]

both use (some) suspension parts from the S13 Silvia/180sx and R32/33 etc.. i prefer the C32, i find it looks better, has a better stance and looks really sick when tricked out right. and for a RB project i would go with the C32 hands down, i was thinking about selling my ride and doing somehting similar for a while.

[halfbreed]

[zer0xp]

^^ look a man who have some sleeper parts...

[corn curls]

I'm not too really concerned about looks... What i want is how do you'll think it will handle under that much power and at high speeds( and maybe crash survivability...) .... and another thing....will that power be enuff to drift with and MAYBE manhandle the neighbour's GSXR 1000?..

[STUD 101]

I think swap for swap the A31 would be better scince the A31 would have the rear disc brakes and the LSD viscous already so you wouldn't have to worry about getting your RB25 power down. And even if your model doesn't have it you could by the complete assembly in the bamboo and is a simple bolt up and to boost your suspension and handling a bit you get a pair of R32 skyline coilovers again simple bolt up for the rear, depending on your set up for the front it may differ. With that engine you will have enough power and torque to drift but you will require driving skill to balance the power and weight to make your drifting look good.

the C32 is my personnal favourite in terms of lookwise and class that A31 eh ready in terms of who could take jammin i think the c32 bullet proof. I doin the same install on my own but i have all the issues highlighted earlier because i have the local C32 so that is the only "bad thing". you might get less hastle with the foreign used c32 because some of them came with the lsd and stuff.

but as u say u is a man not out for looks and stuff so i think the a31 would be the easier and more economic swap

[corn curls]

fellaz when i say i'm not too interested in looks i don't mean with the front bumper missing, 24 inch intercooler proudly displayed, flat black bonnet, gun metal rims, drop low and running like a highway taxi.....even though it sounds interesting I'm going for the sleeper look...so maybe the look of the vehicle will be a bit important.. but i'm really trying to focus on performance and handling....and i also have some 18" chrome rims to sell or trade....preferably gun metal 15's so if u know anybody who have selling or trading.....

[cacasplat3]

horse i have ah padnah. swap in ah 300zx diff. i eh noe bout the engine. think is ah 25 too. twin piston rear brakes(300zx) and 4 piston front(300zx i think) i eh noe how much mods it take to do it. but the car is ah beast. intercooler hidden, parts easy providing is not ah body u looking for. as for suviverbility, if u racing ah gsxr especially ah 1000. if u winning and u crash, i sorry but there is no way to survive. my 2 cents . doh go and pep ah car u cyah handle, it will kill u. sure.

[corn curls]

well yea stopping/handling is a big issue for me... but right now i leaning towards the C32 as the ultimate drift machine.... had enough of speed on the roads....(i'm still recovering from a bike crash a while aback )... and another problem i have as well.... whats the best ECU route to take for my power goals ( 450-600 hp) ....Haltech stand alone......E manage Ultimate...OR Apexi Power FC? or should i ship the standard RB25det NEO ecu to either Australia or US to get it remapped..... fellaz i need some advice here as well.... i know is some real stupid questions but please bear with me

[RB26]

i think u should go stand alone bcause it gives alot of flexibility wen it come to tuning especially if u decide to furthur upgrade, remapped ecus are to limited in my opinion although they work well but are restictive in that they are suited for one particular application

[speed king]

go wit the c33 medalist they are identical to d a31 they can take the whole skyline front suspension an almost all r32 parts work on them diff,driveshaft.calipers,coilovers,the works an well i ove them cause i hav one

[Bezman]

reading this post gives me a headache...

the R200 diff (VLSD etc) in the medalist/cifero/S13-14 silvia can handle over 600whp proven.. no need to spwap diff etc..

the front brakes form teh R32 and Z32 4 piston breakes bolt yp, and the R32/R33 and R34 brembos work too.. you may have to re-drill the rotas to 4 bolt like i did..

and Apexi Power FC DJetro is the way to go..

[speed king]

^^^^ the r200 diff dat came wit the A31 an C33 are hard to come by as only original turbo models came with them an y go an get ah s13 or s14 diff when u can b more than safe wit a skyline diff at around d same price those cars that hav rb20det on d chassis are not original turbo models d original models came with 12.5'' rotors or sumtin in the front an vented in d bak no other model comes wit that also they have d cefero or laurell marked on the back piece below the trunk an also the seat bealt has a patch on it saying det model

[Bezman]

^^^^ the r200 diff dat came wit the A31 an C33 are hard to come by as only original turbo models came with them an y go an get ah s13 or s14 diff when u can b more than safe wit a skyline diff at around d same price those cars that hav rb20det on d chassis are not original turbo models d original models came with 12.5'' rotors or sumtin in the front an vented in d bak no other model comes wit that also they have d cefero or laurell marked on the back piece below the trunk an also the seat bealt has a patch on it saying det model

lord more headache..

the R200 comes in everything, all S chasis that came with SR's except the S15 which uses the R200 but a HLSD instead of a VLSD., (S13's S14's) and every Cifero, Medalist, laurel, Gloria etc.. no matter is it came with RB20/DE/DET/25DE/25DET etc...

the Z32 and R33 & R34 GTR models came with a R230 (which uses a 230mm ring gear as opposed to the 200mm ring gear)

but anyway - WHY would you swap to a R230 skyline or Z32 diff?? thats just a waste of money.

the R200 can handle over 700hp no probelm..

[turbo master]

doesnt matter...chasis upgrades would also need to be done for such horses.
as well as plenty other parts..so with either choice..u'd have mods to do..
which is why i think it'll really be about yr choice of looks

[Bezman]

doesnt matter...chasis upgrades would also need to be done for such horses.
as well as plenty other parts..so with either choice..u'd have mods to do..
which is why i think it'll really be about yr choice of looks

i cant see any real chassi mods he 'needs' there are manu RB25DET and SR20DET powered medalists and ciferos etc that dont need any extensive work, nothing you wouldnt do to any regular car, you dont need to go stitch welding the chasis or any shiet like that, good coilovers or shocks and springs of you cant afford, some adjustable sway bars, bushings and possibly things like adjustbale control arms and tie rods if you plan on drifting.. but all that is over kill (i know i have all of it in my car)

[halfbreed]

who does chassis welding??

[cacasplat3]

in my knowledge the original lsd's are good for nutting. the aftermarket diffs are better and more advanced. it dosent matter, much, how much power the diff can handle, its how useful it is. i'll look for the link to show why stock lsd's are not suitable for a car with that much power. even a r34 gtr quoted at 276hp(really over 300hp) has a top class diff. but look at any customising list of a lightly modded r34 gtr in the us or japan, and u will see that the lsd was changed.

[speed king]

the r200 hlsd an vlsd diffs may handle 700hp doh i doubt it very much but these proof u keep talkin bout kindly show me a link or sumting cause even with rb25 swap in d c33 d diff gave out wit ease we replaced it wit d r200 vlsd an it gave out again an again wen d r34 diff was put in it work fine no problems so if u can show me sum proof

[Bezman]

the C33 uses a R200 diff, it may not have had a VLSD or enen the VLSD wore out. even some 300zx's use R200's.

even if the VSLD wears out, replacing it with a junkyard diff from another car with the same R200 diff housing and VLSD isnt the solution..

you need to replace the guts of the diff for a true LSD spider gear assembly, like from NISMO, KAAZ, CUSCO, ATS, TOMEI etc..


and here is the R200 holding nuff power meng

http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads ... st67989759


http://www.rhombus-tuning.com/t66sr20.htm

go to the bottom of the page and look he is using a stock R200 VLSD







own3d

JK

[Bezman]

http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads ... st67951062

and check this thread about guys running 1.8second 60' on OPEN DIFFS - thats the same R200's but not even with a VLSD, so that means they good for something

[cacasplat3]

http://www.club4ag.com/faq%20and%20tech ... al_101.htm



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential


read them in that order. viscous lsd tend to be more reliable than mechanical lsd's but, according to the second article, they comsume sum of your power. so its IMO better to use the viscous. and with proper maintainance it will work well and long.

[Bezman]

read them in that order. viscous lsd tend to be more reliable than mechanical lsd's but, according to the second article, they comsume sum of your power. so its IMO better to use the viscous. and with proper maintainance it will work well and long.

viscous ones fail under heavy load (eventrually wear out and work like an open diff - like mine is now in my car) and you cant maintain a viscous LSD, the VLSD is sealed so no matter what kind of lubricant you put in there its only lubing the bearings.. the mechanical/clutchtupe and open diffs are greatly helped by the lub used.

and mechanical ones and clutch type ones are great cause you can adjust them and they come in different locking/settings (1 way 1.5 way and 2 way)

i have read and read and read about LSD's and diffs etc, thanks for the links though.

[cacasplat3]

in the first link, i notice the guy mentioned the use of 1.5 way on front wheel drives, but what about use on 4wd systems?
2way in the back and 1.5 in front?
just asking.

[Bezman]

1.5 and one way are usually chosen for the fronts of FWD or AWD cars cause it allows the inside wheels to still slip a little and allow a better cornering grip. if the fronts were locked like in a 2 way or welded diff, the car would understerr badly as both wheels will be forced by teh diff to spin at the same speed.. you need one wheel to turn more than the other, thats why most OEm apps of LSD's are 1 way or Viscous LSD's wich both allow some level of grip when accellerating, but allow various levelvs odf slip for cornering/parking/driving comfort,

[cacasplat3]

thanks man. good info.

[speed king]

holy sheit stock vlsd hmmm wen we took down d diff an guts it out d spider gears were smoothe lol.....we got ah r34 compleet diff setup wit suspension etc for 1000 so we took dat...... great info

[Bezman]

yeah you learn something new everyday

[turbo master]

good info ca