P11 SR20DE Turboing Info Needed

[TeamH2O]

Have an engine from a cvt p11. SR20DE

Got it from a friend of mine as a donor engine to the project im building.

Currently, it is rebuilding the block with oversized forged cp pistons with rings. Will be using back stock rods and new ACL bearings. Will be letting pappys polish the crankshaft and rebore the block as the block had a spun bearing and will need it rebored to fit the pistons.


Looking for a proper gasket, metal that will be able to work on it. Was considering the vvl head swap but thats kinda going into more headache area, meaning in terms of sorting out issues, fabrication and getting proper reliability, i mean come on, who wont want to rev up to 8500rpms? lol

Anyway saw a readup on a guy with a p11 and original engine, stock head and block, but supporting mods and some way to reduce backpressure to like nothing with the big turbo and also a huge backend to get boost at 4500rpm upwards redline 7000. Its doing 527FWHP! http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=86500

Anyways, i wanna stick with this p11 engine bcuz when it was stock on the wagon, it was DAMN QUICK for a cvt with small exhaust and air filter!

I already have a log type turbo manifold.

Currently looking for a pulsar 4wd gearbox as my car is going 4wd.

What i want to know is where can i get cams for this model engine? Heard its harder to get for these. I just want something where i can use the stock valves, springs etc like drop in cams.

Anyone ever turbo the stock p11 engine by the way? The normal P11 SR20DE that comes with CVT, even if u convert to box. How hard was it and was it reliable?

Also will be using an emanage.

[krack korn]

The metal VVL headgasket is gonna work no problem on your setup.
The only difference with the vvl gasket is an extra oil hole, so its no issue. It is also a thick gasket so it lowers compression a bit. Stock compression on that DE is 9.5, with the gasket you will be around 9, that is still good for a late spooling turbo to still have some power low down. I would have prefered the 9.5 though. Make sure and have both the head and block resurfaced if using the metal gasket to get a good seal. You can also reclaim lost compression by the resurfacing, take it off the block rather than the head, so the pistons come up above the block by the amount that the gasket is thicker, this preserves your piston to head clearance and also fights detonation. Try to make the piston to head clearance 35~40thou cold.

Using the vvl head on ur block is no headache, it is the best head for turbo, better even than the gtir, the only better head is the 20V vvl and only because of its increased detonation resistance.

take that log manifold and throw it in the fire, it works, its strong but you made a statement about low backpresure, log manifold = high backpressure\low effenciency, you want something ramhorn and close to equal length, the DIY mazworks ramhorn is the best balance of cost, strength & function/performance. you can also get a ebay turbo mani (only top mount) that works good but if you don't brace it up its gonna crack.

If you want to cross 400WHP then get forged rods especially if you are revving to 8500. get the manley rods as they are the lightest in H-beam rods.

If you are going 4WD then you cannot use your existing block, you will have to get an AWD block like the turbo W10/W11 or the 4wd P11 or the GTiR, the transfer case is gonna bounce on the block when you try to bolt up, no sense spending all that money on your block and then cant use it.

you said that the block spun a bearing, it is usually the rod bearings (mostly #3) that spins so the damage is to the con rod and the crank, not the block, forged pistons require about 2 thou more clearance than cast, so if the block was good to begin with a simple hone to fit is all you need to slap in stock sized forged 86mm pistons.

If you insist on not getting the VVL head then I have a used set of JWT S3R's that will be a good upgrade to the stock cams for the Roller Rocker valve train. You can also look for the Tomei poncams for the RR engine or something from Catcams.

[swift gti funatic]

well said Krack korn..

[yakuza]

The OP stated that he's using over sized pistons, if he is going to bore over 86.5mm the VET head gasket will be of no use to him.

[TeamH2O]

Yea i forgot to mention that, thats why i did not bother to go with the vvl head.

I was digging up more and realized that the log manifold will create more backpressure so im now checking to get a good one now.

The engine started making the knock noise while driving and the car was shut off immediately. So not sure 100% what it is.

How much you selling the cams for?

[krack korn]

are you boring more than 86.5? why?
there are other options for bigger bore but those gaskets are relativley expensive, mazworks and cometic are two possibilities.

open up the engine first and see what is the problem, but as I said before if u are going 4wd, the regular 2wd block is not gonna work.