Moderator: 3ne2nr Mods
Crackpot wrote:what about the fact that there is no temperature gauge in these vehicles?
How do you monitor your temp?
Do nissan owners install after-market water-temp gauge?
skylinechild wrote:Crackpot wrote:what about the fact that there is no temperature gauge in these vehicles?
How do you monitor your temp?
Do nissan owners install after-market water-temp gauge?
correct !! install after market temp gauge and you're good to go..ensure the correct coolant is used and the air bled out of the system - zero problems.
Crackpot wrote:skylinechild wrote:Crackpot wrote:what about the fact that there is no temperature gauge in these vehicles?
How do you monitor your temp?
Do nissan owners install after-market water-temp gauge?
correct !! install after market temp gauge and you're good to go..ensure the correct coolant is used and the air bled out of the system - zero problems.
What is the correct fluid? I recently bought a Y12 and there is a green fluid in the reservoir. I think I read somewhere that the green corrodes the radiator quickly causing it too rust prematurely and then is rell problems
access_granted wrote:I have to change my battery. Would I get a battery same size with more cranking amps. Cause I can't put a bigger battery. Or does it matter
chemist777 wrote:While the car is on 'D' and you come to a complete stop, the car 'bucks' and vibrates and the rpm drops to 500 or even lower, then the vibrating stops and the rpm raises to 600. Anyone gets that problem or know what it is?
NB the car is still on 'D'
chemist777 wrote:No, check light doesn't come on.
Never serviced the vehicle.. it's on 30K so maybe I need to clean the injector
It only happens on D and no the issue stops on its own... Come to a complete stop in traffic... car vibrates and rpm drops low then not too long after the rpm raises to 600 and the vibrations stop.
The car vibrates until the rpm raises back (basically which is not too long after-a few seconds I would say).
chemist777 wrote:Question time... So in my honest opinion, the Y12 brakes kinda shitty... Anyone ever 'upgraded' the brakes? Like change the rotors to another model Nissan? Or even did any simple mods to get better brakes? Lets say change your brakes pads or type of brakes fluid?
I'm just looking for some options to get better braking on the road. Thanks
chemist777 wrote:Someone told me that with the non-cable type 'X' pedal, once you take out the battery pole something needs to be re-programmed for the car to accelerate like normal (can't remember what exactly). Is this true?
chemist777 wrote:So lets say I'm going to put a lil pong in my car and disconnected the poles for a period of time while I do the install. Would I be able to drive the car to someone who can do the re calibration? Or I need a wrecker?
skylinechild wrote:chemist777 wrote:So lets say I'm going to put a lil pong in my car and disconnected the poles for a period of time while I do the install. Would I be able to drive the car to someone who can do the re calibration? Or I need a wrecker?
you should be fine tbh. if after you reconnect the battery if you find the car is not idling properly - just drive it and have a tech do the re calibration.
notice in my previous post i said you MAY have to. dont take my word as the gospel straight from nissan.
try it the worst that will happen is u pay a tech $100 to do the relearn procedure
sexyleo797 wrote:good day guys any idea as to why the egi fuse in the idpm box keeps blowing .. and car wont idle. .. y12 wringroad? 797 0000.. any ideas would be greatly appreciated . thanks
dcj123 wrote:Hey guys,
thinking of buying a 2011 roro AD wagon but i've been reading about the CVT issues in the Tiida etc. Can anyone tell me if the AD is CVT or regular 4 speed auto? Thanks.
And what should be the 1st things to service after purchasing. Thanks
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 35 guests