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[b]A31 rear sub frame replacement[/b]
Posted: January 2nd, 2010, 2:43 pm
by chrizz
I am getting a rear sub frame with a LSD diff. to replace mine which is standard.
Had to do this in order to get the spindles, rotors and rear callipers that needed to be changed.
My question is,will it work and do i change the entire setup as a unit or do i use back my original diff as the LSD is of no use to my setup.
Advantages of both would be useful.
What kind of labour cost to do this?
Conrad and anyone else what do you think i should do?
Thanks in advance.
Posted: January 2nd, 2010, 4:11 pm
by Conrad
Why don't you want the LSD?
Which vehicle is it from? S13 uses the caliper as the handbrake and not separate drums like the R32, A31 or C33.
It's relatively easy to do You can unbolt the sub frame with the wheels still on (loosen the lug nuts a lil to make it easier to remove) and roll it from under the car with a jack to assist then offer up the new one in the same manner. Depending on which car it's from you may have to change the brake hoses for the caliper. In saying that, one mechanic may charge less than another (it's quite subjective).
If I had the luxury of money and time I would swap the GTS-T gear (larger, ventilated rotors with matching 2 pot calipers AND the LSD, 5 stud conversion one time) on to a compatible sub-frame without HICAS. That way in the future that's one less problem to resolve i.e. HICAS steering rack (or kit to condemn it) AND the bushings that go along with it. Before choosing which cradle to use double check the condition of the 4 main bushings, after time (up to 20 years old at this point) and possible abuse they burst and can cause a loud knocking sound or a back end that wanders in a different direction.
Oh, and C35/S14/S15 spindles (or hub pressed into the stock spindle) up front to do a 5 stud conversion one time

Nothing like walking into the Bamboo and picking up wide, low offset wheels at prices that'll make FWD men cringe.
Posted: January 2nd, 2010, 5:11 pm
by chrizz
Saw it this morning. The guy said its from an A31 4WD and i should just replace the entire setup from mine with it and to just condemn the pump but leave it in place.
Posted: January 2nd, 2010, 6:37 pm
by Conrad
The HICAS setup you mean?
Seriously, if you could afford get the swap the stuff you want on to your cradle if it's still in good condition. Why? Because that HICAS setup moves a little (albeit not by much) AND at the end of the rack there are tie-rods which will deteriorate at some point in time and you'll have to go looking for bushes to replace them. Personally, less moving parts = less problems, especially when you're not using it.
He's right though, it can bolt straight up and it'll be easier. It's no better than a regular turbo A31 rear end in that they all came with the exact same double wishbone setup in the rear.
Posted: January 2nd, 2010, 7:42 pm
by chrizz
Why i also believed it was for the A31 was the 4 studs rotor and the size of the rear callipers.
His asking price is $1500. Is that good?
Good advice as usual...........thanks a lot.
Will check back the guy on tuesday.
Posted: January 3rd, 2010, 5:57 am
by chrizz
What does HICAS really stand for or mean?
Posted: January 3rd, 2010, 9:33 am
by Conrad
It's Nissan's way of steering/turning the rear wheels of the car a few degrees for better handling, especially at high speeds.
You can tell by looking at the rear of the cradle. You'll see a steering rack with both ends connected to the spindles via a tie-rod.
The HICAS steering rack is in red, the tie-rods are pink and the tie-rod ends are in green.
Search what it stands for on Google, I'm lazy.
$1500 is a very fair price but as with everything that's for sale, there may be somewhere that sells it cheaper.
Posted: January 3rd, 2010, 10:46 am
by chrizz
Great info brother. You should be a teacher.
LOL. Thanks
Posted: January 3rd, 2010, 10:50 am
by Conrad
^^^ Man I'm still learning like everyone else. Hope you make a good choice in the end.
Posted: January 3rd, 2010, 10:10 pm
by Crazi4Car
Can you help me find a rear rside triangle glass 4 A31 cefiro?????????
Posted: January 12th, 2010, 11:40 am
by chrizz
I bought the complete back suspension for the A31 with the LSD diff and am being charged $1000 to change it.
Is that too much?
Posted: January 12th, 2010, 1:23 pm
by turbosingh
Yes that is way 2much.
Posted: January 12th, 2010, 8:18 pm
by chrizz
So like this man want to rip meh off?

a31
Posted: January 13th, 2010, 2:41 am
by cutthroatInt
good luck wit the swap...
im lookin for an A31 front subframe wit suspension.
you cefiro guys hav any links to a bare front cut wit suspension and steering rack only or the suspension alone.?
Posted: January 13th, 2010, 8:32 am
by vin123
Just because I want to know, what are the deep blue, orange?, light blue and the yellow = bushings?
Nice info thou
Posted: January 13th, 2010, 3:11 pm
by Conrad
vin123 wrote:Just because I want to know, what are the deep blue, orange?, light blue and the yellow = bushings?
Nice info thou
Red - HICAS rack
Pink - Rear inner tie-rods
Green - Rear outer tie-rods
Blue -
traction rods
Blue/green - Rear upper control arms aka Rear camber arms
Orange - Rear stabiliser bar
Yellow - Rear main sub-frame bushings
It's a double wishbone setup BTW.
EDITED
Posted: January 13th, 2010, 5:40 pm
by vin123
^thanks....

Posted: January 13th, 2010, 8:19 pm
by chrizz
Can anyone recommend somebody competent to handle the swap and his price?
Posted: January 13th, 2010, 8:30 pm
by cutthroatInt
call 762 4850. His name is Jim. Tell him Sayyid gave you his number concerning swapping the diff.
he will be able to give you the price when you call.
since its not a conversion you are doing and its just a swap it should not be expensive.
emphasize the point that its not a conversion.
tell me how it goes.
Posted: January 13th, 2010, 8:33 pm
by Sinister_Audio
Conrad, yuh WIN dey homes

Posted: January 14th, 2010, 10:53 am
by chrizz
Thanks Sayyid.
Gave jim a call earlier and stressed it a swap as you suggested and he says $1000. That just sounds too much.
If i had a ramp and jack i would change it myself.
Posted: January 14th, 2010, 6:26 pm
by cutthroatInt
i hear yuh...
its very inviting to do the swap yourself. with some jack stands and a big trolley jack together with a brethren and some tools you can go about swapping the diff yourself. make sure the car is on a hard surface. makes it easier to move the diff around on the trolley jack.
me and a padna did an IRS swap out on a car that was out on a muddy lawn. strain. but it is possible.
a padna swapped out a skyline diff on a medalist and he encountered one problem.
he had changed the four main bolts bushings to teflon, and when installing under the car, since teflon does not hav the flex it was hard nor ass to line up the bolts properly.
soldier, if u have the passion for cars, you will buy a jack and tools and put it down.
got mines in pricemart. pretty heavy for a 3.5 ton jack but it has the lift i was looking for.
Posted: January 14th, 2010, 7:54 pm
by moti
chrizz, call satesh at 753-3288.
let him know what it is you want to do with the diff and i can guarantee it won't be a ridiculous cost of $1000. let me know what plays off with that .
his garage is located in chaguanas.
Posted: January 14th, 2010, 8:42 pm
by chrizz
Will give him a call tomorrow and see. Thanks bro.
Posted: January 15th, 2010, 12:29 pm
by chrizz
Checked Satesh and he said $1500...........stress boi
Posted: January 15th, 2010, 12:43 pm
by Conrad
Posted: January 15th, 2010, 12:48 pm
by chrizz
Dem boys sad............
Posted: January 15th, 2010, 1:16 pm
by moti
chrizz wrote:Checked Satesh and he said $1500...........stress boi

WTF.
guess you don't really have a choice yes. it's your car, change it your self.
buy the needed tools and DIY.
Posted: January 15th, 2010, 1:25 pm
by Conrad
Oh, I forgot the part about your exhaust may be in the way.

Posted: January 15th, 2010, 6:38 pm
by chrizz
yeah i know that........but still dem boys crazy
