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Diff for 120y SR20 conversion

Sunny to Skyline - SR20, CA18, RB20-26, VG30 etc.

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neuman
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Diff for 120y SR20 conversion

Postby neuman » May 29th, 2009, 7:05 pm

Need a nissan diff for a 120y SR20 conversion. what do you recommend? want to keep it nissan to standardize the stud spacing for the rims. i've heard ppl say the 720 pickup diff is good but that is a six hole hub. can i remove 2 studs to make it four hole? will it line up the same as a four hole hub?

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Postby sidewayz69 » May 29th, 2009, 8:02 pm

720!!!!!!
u can change d hob 2 get whatever bolt hole u want

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Postby Zed Sqd » June 6th, 2009, 9:01 pm

i know you wanna keep it Nissan, but if u not gettin the 720 diff, my friend's dad used a Galant 2000 diff in his 120Y with the rear discs. the car runs very nice.
Last edited by Zed Sqd on June 9th, 2009, 8:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby V2NR 3.0 » June 8th, 2009, 9:22 am

Use the 720 diff. Its real real tough and can withstand lots of agressive horse power !

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Postby speedfreak44 » June 12th, 2009, 6:08 pm

bluebird wagon diff or galant 2000 is wit disc so, cant go wrong, got a bro wit a 1200 datsun, wit sr20det, runs like a beyotch, he used c33 suspension in front, n b13 power steering , yes it has p/s,

good luck!

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Postby Zed Sqd » June 12th, 2009, 8:54 pm

speedfreak44, the bluebird wagon diff so strong? Can't those only support the 1.8 engine? Those didn't have the rear discs did they?

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Postby speedfreak44 » June 14th, 2009, 6:29 pm

no they dont, and yes 1.8 but the wagon uses main lift springs, iv got a pal who has a bbird wit sr20 n has a laurel diff, but i think it may b to wide for a 120, bess dollar is for a galant diff, 2000 n its disc, i also kno a guy wit a 2000 galant wit a 2jz im sure its not a galant diff he has, i will find out for, wat eva he used u can to,

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Postby V2NR 3.0 » June 14th, 2009, 6:37 pm

Interesting information coming out here. Im following closely

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Postby rx80 » June 15th, 2009, 9:34 am

720 diff is real good but you won't get LSD so you gonna have to "lock it up" if you want to get traction. If you look you might be able to get one of the Laurel diffs that are LSD and four hole or I've heard of some guys using one of the LSD maxi diffs.

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Postby neuman » June 15th, 2009, 12:44 pm

thanks for all the repies...thinking about using a redtop now. i was told that the 720 diff will not stand up to that torque. advice is to use medalist front suspension and the silvia or medalist diff if the wheelbase not too wide. the c33 is what? the cefiro? if it is, will the spring fit inside the fender or will i have to modify?

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Postby rx80 » June 15th, 2009, 1:19 pm

The independant rear from the cefiro and the silvia are around the same dimensions if not the same. But to install an independant rear in that car is not at all an easy job. Good luck there are some guys who have done the install on other cars but not that good. Check BCRltd they real good with what you thinking bout. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

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Postby speedfreak44 » June 16th, 2009, 11:13 am

my advice is stick wit a banjo, i dont believe in making ur car indepentant suspen,
as RX80 said there are some maxi diffs also, we are talking of those the e24 which is not so costly, and get this they come in 2.5, 2.7 and 3.2 diffs, but again the wide is difference in withd for ur car, oh here this to, iv got a bro wit a 320 bmw wit a black top sr, n here wat he did, to took a skyline diff and placed it in the bmw banjo, the rotors r already stock from the bm but large, they used the axles from the bm but where it met wit the skyline diff inside they machined it and build plate and used extreme bolts, boss if u see the bmw looks stock but moves,wen he came out we were very concern ant the diff, its been 2 yrs already and the engine bearing main burn but the diff is like a beast no complain at all, so u think ur options tru, dont go wild!!!!

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Postby rx80 » June 16th, 2009, 12:52 pm

speedfreak44 wrote:my advice is stick wit a banjo, i dont believe in making ur car indepentant suspen,
as RX80 said there are some maxi diffs also, we are talking of those the e24 which is not so costly, and get this they come in 2.5, 2.7 and 3.2 diffs, but again the wide is difference in withd for ur car, oh here this to, iv got a bro wit a 320 bmw wit a black top sr, n here wat he did, to took a skyline diff and placed it in the bmw banjo, the rotors r already stock from the bm but large, they used the axles from the bm but where it met wit the skyline diff inside they machined it and build plate and used extreme bolts, boss if u see the bmw looks stock but moves,wen he came out we were very concern ant the diff, its been 2 yrs already and the engine bearing main burn but the diff is like a beast no complain at all, so u think ur options tru, dont go wild!!!!

Who the hell did ^^^ that job they good

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Postby speedfreak44 » June 16th, 2009, 5:08 pm

it was a machine shop in grande, real good job!, that idea came up on a river lime, n we jus made a dumb suggestion or doing that and 3 days after it was reality! we call that car the crossbreed, lol

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Postby DatManiac » June 18th, 2009, 12:16 am

Currently test fitting an s13 rear end on a b310(square 120y), realizing how much the front upper control arm brackets do not agree with the car's chassis rails. Have meh pops ole tetanus bucket to do some test fitment and not pleased with d amount of cutting needs to be done on the body of d car. The width is another issue, the s13 rear end is 4 inches wider than the 120 diff, so that would be callin for FWD rims and some fender flaring. Did some measurements and surprisingly the existing shock towers line up, but coil overs would be required to fit in that small space for d shock. As seen in the pics with d ole car, there is room to weld brackets for the the four sub-frame mounting points. Be prepared to mutilate your car, I'm still not sure if I want to do that.

I sourced a bare subframe just to do fitment measurements.
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This is what i'm planning to use.
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Postby rx80 » June 18th, 2009, 9:57 am

speedfreak44 wrote:it was a machine shop in grande, real good job!, that idea came up on a river lime, n we jus made a dumb suggestion or doing that and 3 days after it was reality! we call that car the crossbreed, lol

if you don't m ind my asking how much did it cost? and how long did the job take?

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Postby Conrad » June 18th, 2009, 11:30 pm

C33/A31/R32GTS(T) has the same rear end, S13 has the exact same dimensions as the previous mentioned but uses the caliper for the e-brake setup unlike the R32 and other which use a drum setup.

I have one for sale if anyone's interested.

http://forums.trinituner.com/forums/vie ... p?t=253853

BCR Ltd. from Princes Town comes highly recommended for independent rear suspension conversion.

For the front C33/A31/S13 is the exact same McPherson setup whereas the Skyline uses a double wishbone setup.

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Postby FugiTECH » June 19th, 2009, 12:32 am

720 diff will not stand up to that torque
will not stand up their arse whoever told you.


wah madness really going on here, independent on a 120 lol, this that, Doh put Independent and have banjo cars bussing yuh rass eh partner


just put a 620 banjo man and make it simple :wink:

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Postby sidewayz69 » June 19th, 2009, 9:07 pm

THE_FUGITIVES wrote:
720 diff will not stand up to that torque
will not stand up their arse whoever told you.


wah madness really going on here, independent on a 120 lol, this that, Doh put Independent and have banjo cars bussing yuh rass eh partner


just put a 620 banjo man and make it simple :wink:













well i tried telling him that cause i no ppl with d 720 set up
and ah new member joined in the group
ah box lancer with ah rb20det gear box with twin disc copper clutch

OR AND THE 720 DIFFERENTIAL THAT WAS LOCKED UP AND HE STILL DRIVING D CAR HARD!!

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Postby skylineGTR55036018 » June 23rd, 2009, 10:32 am

i agree wut every1 here use the 720 diff they can withstand alot of power..

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720 diff?

Postby madtechdude » June 23rd, 2009, 9:50 pm

guys i hear what you all saying but my question to anyone:
what is the actual torque that the 720 diff can withstand?
[/b]

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Postby miguel granville » June 23rd, 2009, 10:28 pm

have a galant with a moded rb20det thinking bout the 720 or the 280 dick brake diff dont want to weld it up tho ""every day driver"" the galant 2000 diff cant handle the power of the engine buttin axcels and diff like mad

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Postby Conrad » June 23rd, 2009, 10:31 pm

miguel granville wrote:have a galant with a moded rb20det thinking bout the 720 or the 280 dick brake diff dont want to weld it up tho ""every day driver"" the galant 2000 diff cant handle the power of the engine buttin axcels and diff like mad


Say what nicca? :?

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miguel granville
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Postby miguel granville » June 23rd, 2009, 10:38 pm

thinking about the 720 diff or the 280c diff (the one that has disk brakes)
cause the diff in the galant now not standing up, that is the 2000 with the bisk brakes

plzzz help

note man from bago so parts harder to find

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Postby FugiTECH » June 23rd, 2009, 10:49 pm

LOL Conrad

miguel granville wrote:
have a galant with a moded rb20det thinking bout the 720 or the 280 dick brake diff dont want to weld it up tho ""every day driver"" the galant 2000 diff cant handle the power of the engine buttin axcels and diff like mad


LOL Dick Brake ewwwwww lmao Buttin Ack Cels hehe

Anyway The ONLIEST Times a Weld up is Dangerous is when you have Street and Strip Tyres on the car and Want to ''Road race''

Or have normal tyres on the car and just want to drive very very hard round corners aka Road race or jackarse drive but it wouldnt be as Dangerous as when you have Street and Strips on,

reason being when turning a sharp corner 1 tyre slightly slips with non-race/normal tyres whereas the Street and Strips it hardly slips and tend to Grab depending on sizes and Conditions and car and wants to make the car go more Straight than turning the Corner

This was tried on a Box Lancer and Galant, A smart thing if you going weld up and your car is a daily driver , buy foreign used or local used tryes and keep plenty spares, and keep a set of race tyres on a next rim for racing.

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miguel granville
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Postby miguel granville » June 23rd, 2009, 11:02 pm

but what diff is a good one to use tho

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Postby FugiTECH » June 23rd, 2009, 11:02 pm

Also Diff breaks for 2 major Causes , the 2 axle bearings wear and not changed will cause massive play between Pinion teeth and Crown wheel Teeth and gets so loose that any sudden ''Launch'' or pull of breaks the teeth , OR

when you do doughnuts or pull off hard while the car is side ways the center pin between the spider gears get loose and shift side to side and starts to grind on the pinion teeth gettin it shorter and shorter till it falls out and goes bewteen teeths and then you kniw from there

Conclusion
1: Change axles bearings when diff ''Humming'', its actually the bearings that hums

2: Weld the center Pin so it cant move around when it gets loose , just watch the outside of the center housing and mildly weld the pin to the housing itself in a way so it cant drop out on both sides and grind it so it wont hit the pinion teeth cause if the weld too kigh it hits the pinion teeth and locks the diff up

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Postby miguel granville » June 23rd, 2009, 11:06 pm

weld the center pin long time
and we alwause use new bearings when we fix it
change 7 2000 diff times so far kinda fedup now

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Postby FugiTECH » June 23rd, 2009, 11:06 pm

What Kinda car and what kinda engine? Miguel

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Postby miguel granville » June 23rd, 2009, 11:09 pm

galant rb20det with some good mods
so just need to know what is a good diff to use 720, 280c or what ?

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