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Hey guys my bro bought a b12 and i helping him fix it up but i not too familiar with the enterchangable for these fwd nissans. any of you experience ppl out there want share some advice and experiences on the matter?



i need to know suspension swaps? b13 b14?

would an sr fit on same mounts and axels?

will a b13 brake booster spindles caliper rotors etc fit?

Where do i get parts specific to the b12 body lights etc?

any help would be greatly appreciated!



Thanks!

12 parts not as interchangable wtih the 13/14.
some things similar, but most..............

thanks for the info


parts info?

so i gotta use a b12 booster?

Mad Antz wrote:so i gotta use a b12 booster?

i do believe so.

so why b12 does hold such resale value if parts are limited?

Mad Antz wrote:so why b12 does hold such resale value if parts are limited?

it'd not limited. parts are available and cheap.
and the damn thing economical to drive.
d old man puts $50 and drives around for the week.

bump


any comments on how an sr fits?

cheap way out is to fit a b14 engine and still have room to work on the engine. fit a SR and try changing a water pump. the suspension is under less stress too. got the Picture

hmm i see. lol

sound like when i had a fwd v6 626. when i had to fill the clutch resevoir i had to loosen all the mounts and jack up the whole engine.

b13 and b14 rotors and calipers will work bolt for bolt,even the gts to!

b13 and b14 booster,even the double diaphram will work as well!

any nissan FOUR LINE master cylinder will work i.e b13,b14,etc.

b13 shocks can work as well *have to confirm this*

In my braking system,the only thing i have b12 is the drums at the rear,everything else upgraded/swapped,whatever u want to call it.

SR fitted perfect.used the gts axles though.if u using the 12 axel u will have to cut and weld(not a good idea) even my original cross member(hope that's the correct name for it)fit back perfect with no alteration!

AS ANIL SAID ABOVE THE SPACE TO WORK IS THE KILLER!

*have a partner with an sr18 in his 12 and the mech chop up he flecking car dread.the cross member cut and weld in two places yes *

My $0.02.........hope i was of assistance!

my ole man has a 12

B13 - B14 shocks working

but with the b14 shock and spring combo the car will be really high

also Bluebird U 14 rear shocks working in the rear

best engine is the B14 engine.

THE SYNDICATE wrote:b13 and b14 booster,even the double diaphram will work as well!

any nissan FOUR LINE master cylinder will work i.e b13,b14,etc.

cool,
was this a direct replacement, or some alteration had to be done to the brake lines?

THE SYNDICATE,

thanks bro you were a big help!
and the b13 shock do work but its a bit high.

^^^no probs bro.................glad to know i was of assistance!

wagonrunner wrote:

THE SYNDICATE wrote:b13 and b14 booster,even the double diaphram will work as well!

any nissan FOUR LINE master cylinder will work i.e b13,b14,etc.

cool,
was this a direct replacement, or some alteration had to be done to the brake lines?

sry took so long bro............

the booster is a direct replacement,even the double diaphram!

the master cylinder i just had to move around the lines a bit.It won't kink or break or anything,have no fear............worked besssss!

with the increased lift from using the b13/14 shocks...how's the ride?

in my ole man car it rides rather smooth guys

but you feel the highness in the car

car cant take corners as hard as stock tough

Just typed ah whole scenario and I lost it cuz the f**kin computer froze. So ah goin again in bullet form. *sigh*

Worn front rotors and replacing them
Like the majority of B12s out there, I have non-vented blank rotors up front.
Rotor surfaces worn with grooves →need to address promptly to improve braking efficiency
Some options can be to:
•Get the surfaces machined to an ACCEPTABLE and SAFE thickness – from $100 to $150 per rotor, done properly. Include the disassembling and reassembling costs. In total (if you not doing it yourself) average $340.
•Get foreign used blank, non-vented rotors - $100 each
•Replace the stock rotors and calipers with those from the B14 or B13, foreign used - $500
•Upgrade to the Nismo B12 setup - $1,000 (somewhat hard to find)
•Get your hands on the AD18VF setup from the GTS B13 - $800 to $1,000 (hard to find)
•Find the AD22VF setup from the N14 and N15 Pulsar - $1,300 to $1,500 (equally hard to find)...upgrade master cylinder and booster as well. Also requires at least 15â€

[quote="zedsqd"]Just typed ah whole scenario and I lost it cuz the f**kin computer froze. So ah goin again in bullet form. *sigh*

Worn front rotors and replacing them
Like the majority of B12s out there, I have non-vented blank rotors up front.
Rotor surfaces worn with grooves →need to address promptly to improve braking efficiency
Some options can be to:
•Get the surfaces machined to an ACCEPTABLE and SAFE thickness – at least $120 per rotor, done properly. Include the disassembling and reassembling costs.
•Get foreign used blank, non-vented rotors - $100 each
•Replace the stock rotors and calipers with spindles, foreign used - $500
•Upgrade to the Nismo B12 setup - $1,000 (somewhat hard to find)
•Get your hands on the AD18VF setup from the GTS B13 - $800 to $1,000 (hard to find)
•Find the AD22VF setup from the N14 and N15 Pulsar - $1,300 to $1,500 (equally hard to find)...upgrade master cylinder and booster as well. Also requires at least 15â€

Not bad. Not bad at all.

I've heard that the transmissions from the 16 valve "GA" series engines can be used with the 12 valve GA B12 engines.

However, does the 16 valve GA engines drop into the B12s that came with the 12 valve GA exact with no modifications of mounts?

awesomeandre wrote:my ole man has a 12

B13 - B14 shocks working

but with the b14 shock and spring combo the car will be really high

also Bluebird U 14 rear shocks working in the rear

best engine is the B14 engine.

b14 front shock and springs alone works, rear is different,
b13 b14 starter direct replacement,
b13 steering rack works with minor mods (must use b13 coupling)
if using a b13 master cylinder hook up the four lines to the cylinder then bolt to the booster cause if you bolt it up first you will ketch your nennen to get the brake lines to line up.
b14 engine will cost less in mods and be more fuel efficient than a sr
b13 tranny same line up might just have to change the flywheel

zedsqd,get through boss man?

With the brake change?
Well i decided to go with the B14 front brake setup cuz i working on a tight budget these days. I bought a pair of local used front rotors and calipers, but i move like ah idiot and didn't pay much attention to the thickness of the rotors cuz i realized after that they are only good for about a year of use again. So i ended up getting a pair of foreign used B14 rotors with some thicker surfaces, to go with the calipers.

I serviced the calipers, polished up the rotors and waiting for weekend to install them.

zedsqd,cool!

Ok I got into a lil hiccup in an attempt to upgrade to the B14 front brake setup.
To properly line up the bolts that hold the mounting bracket of the caliper to the spindle, it seems that the material around the bolt holes of the bracket need to be ground/removed/cleared a bit. This would be necessary for the bracket to position in such a way, such that bolt holes of the bracket will line up with those on the spindle for the bolts to go through.

Am I overlooking something? Should I have used the entire B14 spindle?

^^that is a strange one.no need to use the 14 spindle.the b12 will work!

when i upgraded to the ad18v's the caliper bracket bolted directly on the b12 spindle.there was no need to alter anything! the 14 is the same!

u sure the calipers are 14's? i won't advise that u clear the holes a bit for the bolt to go through cause that might cause some unwanted movement of them later on!

i have a b12 with sr20vvl.... call me i go tellyou what i did to get it working....
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nah is not the holes to clear. it's the outer bracket surface that needed to be filing down a bit.

installed them and they holding up very well. the car has a single diaphragm booster right now so i'm upgrading to the B14 or B13 master cylinder and booster for more clamping force. should get one this weekend.

purepeewah wuz d scene pal? dis man runnin ah B14 rack on he 12
this i gotta see!

yeha i have a b13 booster and master cylinder...u13 front brakes...that 4 * 114...big spline hydraulic box.......the back is stock brakes...

i used a b 14 rack...change one rack end to the b12..inner rack end that is....armmm it works perfectly...casue its the sam ebolt up...try it you go see you could make power steering line by eswil....etc... b14 fuel pump...cool

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3711536

arm you coudl use the b13 shock but u willhave to cut spring...
i try all kinda hting
b14
13
all kinda thing
i end up putting bakc the original b12...ifu get some ajustable s13 they go work for the front..but you will lose your ride