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Can your QG15DE do this??

Sunny to Skyline - SR20, CA18, RB20-26, VG30 etc.

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Picasso
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Postby Picasso » August 6th, 2007, 12:54 pm

Strange thing fellas when i now got my car, its a QG15DE by the way it use to go pass 180 very easy even up to 190 with out doing all of that thing with the CAT and K&N fillters. After it ran out the 4th gear it seems as if it does some kinda simulated 5th gear thing that happens at 160.


HA mine did 180khm + on 225/45/17.. Better yet when I ran 14's it will pull straight down to till I hit rev limit in 4th and when 5th gear was engaged the engine used to die a bit due to lack of fuel. But I solved all them problems now :mrgreen: I would advise you to do the same :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Postby QG » August 6th, 2007, 10:14 pm

Hears the thing, try not to buy heavy tires/rims...they tend to slow down yuh car. Trust me, this can be really frustrating.

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Postby QG » August 6th, 2007, 10:20 pm

LOL at picasso :D

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Postby wagonrunner » August 6th, 2007, 10:28 pm

*whey d yawn emoticon?*
need it for picasso.

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Postby trixdmx » August 6th, 2007, 10:53 pm

Cool seen I would take the advise and se how it truns out

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Postby Alpha_2nr » August 7th, 2007, 10:02 am

I does reach 180 with out getting gas cut.


Strange thing fellas when i now got my car, its a QG15DE by the way it use to go pass 180 very easy even up to 190 with out doing all of that thing with the CAT and K&N fillters.


:shock: :shock: :shock:

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Postby QG » August 9th, 2007, 8:09 pm

What...surprised? ^^

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Postby Rodn3y » August 10th, 2007, 8:41 am

my car max out at 160 d other night n wouldnt go ny faster... :cry: i runnin 18" chromes too... cud dat b y?

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Postby QG » August 10th, 2007, 11:29 pm

Injectors need cleaning.

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Postby j_a_s_o_n » August 29th, 2007, 11:23 pm

yea i have just a k & n cone filter and no catalytic converter... and now the car maxes out at 190... my dash goes up to 220 though so i can see it clearly...it takes me from malony lights to the corner right after niherst on the highway(the corner right b4 piarco lights).. and is a qg15de i have.. i will love to know howerever where i can get some of those Denso Iridium spark plugs..please if anyone knows.. let me know

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Postby Rodn3y » August 30th, 2007, 7:53 am

people keep telling me that the NGK platinum plugs or the original nissan plugs (from motorist which has platinum in it) will work better in a qg than the irridium. plus a mechanic told me dat i hadda upgrade the power going to the plugs inorder for the irridium plugs to work at it best... is any of this true? n which plugs do i buy for a qg16


i more thing - wha is d best oil 2 use in a qg engine doin 50k + on d odo meter?

thanks

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Postby TECH N FIZ » August 31st, 2007, 1:54 pm

Iridium Spark Plugs & K&N drop in filter for a QG15DE.....where can i get this to buy at a bess price, preferably in central?
:)

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Postby Alpha_2nr » September 2nd, 2007, 12:26 pm

What...surprised? ^^


yeah I am.

A QG15DE is a grocery getter engine. Plain and simple. Nothing special about reaching 180 either. Pretty much any decent daily driver can do it, from Corollas, tiidas etc etc etc etc.

And yes, I also drive an AD with a QG15DE daily. :wink:

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Postby QG » September 4th, 2007, 10:08 pm

Not all QG15 reaches 180, and they get gas cut before they reach that mark :D .

Fiz1981, i got mines in GAYAH's San Fernando for $240...i don't know if there's a branch in central. NGK IRRIDIUM. Don't need GAPPING.

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Postby RBphoto » December 14th, 2007, 12:04 pm

I broke my speedo after hittting 180 after I was testing out my car the first time I cleaned my fuel injectors and TB myself. I now read about 10kmph more than I am really going, judging from befort the tach used to read 2000rpn on 80kmph, it reading 90kmph on 2000rpm. Doh need to know how fast the engine is again. QED.

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Postby Alpha_2nr » December 14th, 2007, 7:44 pm

I broke my speedo after hittting 180


So....did this happen over a few miles of highway, or in slow motion?


:roll:

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Postby cobo » December 14th, 2007, 8:07 pm

Make it to 160....cudda prob make it to 180 buh it d engine was rell bawling so I step off ...think I gonna clean my injectors and take out d cat convertor before I try again.

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Postby RBphoto » December 15th, 2007, 7:29 am

I don't see why allyuh wanna take out the cat. Makes little difference on stock engines as far as I can see, and the car runs shittier. IF you do it however, I suggest that you head straight to a ECU man to adjust your settings. Two of my cousins do that to their wingroads and one friend to her lancer, runs like crap and burns more gas. Some ass mechanic tell lancer girl to cut the O2 sensor wire too. Damn fools. The two wingroads ran better after they got tuned, but never as good as before in my oppinion, but my cousins seem to think is the best thing they ever did, so go figure. The lancer was running shitty from the get go (just kidding).

In my oppinion, propper speed and temperature rated tyres inflated correctly would do more for your top speed than taking out the cat.

I tried the Denso irridium and I cannot say that it works better than the doubble plat NGK's from Motorist, and did not last any longer, so I sticking to OEM for now. I can say however that I tried the cheap NGK's by mistake and my engine was miserable for a week until I changed them out. The denso probably would have helped if my car had a few more mods. Both sets last about 50,000Km in my engine.

As for the filter, I have used several drop in filters (Not cone filters, I only doing that if I go CAI). I have found that from a performance standpoint, Sakura offers the worst. Fram makes a decent filter, but purolator is pretty good for the price. I dropped in a nissan filter about three weeks ago and it is working quite well, and my ECO light is staying on for a longer duration after I give the car a little more gas. When I clean my injectors and take the car on the highway, I will be able to tell if it is actually performing better.

By the way, I running qg18 Knight1, I just commenting on the speedo problem. I agree with what you say about most any car can hit 180.

As for oil, Fyah hbun castrol GTX. Worst oil ever. If you are using conventional, I would recommend using Kendall 20W50. The manual for these cars recommend using 5W30-20W50 oil, so I tried 10W30 once. The car really run better and quiter, but I think that a 15W50 would have been the best for my 80,000Km engine. I did not think that the price of the synthetic was cost effective on my old engine, so switched back to the conventional. Running smothe at 250,000+ Km's (knock on wood)

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Picasso
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Postby Picasso » December 15th, 2007, 11:15 am

I totally disagree with you. :?

Karl shuddap!! :lol: :lol:

don't see why allyuh wanna take out the cat. Makes little difference on stock engines as far as I can see, and the car runs shittier. IF you do it however, I suggest that you head straight to a ECU man to adjust your settings. Two of my cousins do that to their wingroads and one friend to her lancer, runs like crap and burns more gas. Some ass mechanic tell lancer girl to cut the O2 sensor wire too. Damn fools. The two wingroads ran better after they got tuned, but never as good as before in my oppinion, but my cousins seem to think is the best thing they ever did, so go figure.

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Postby RBphoto » December 15th, 2007, 12:26 pm

Picasso, Karl? I don't see the point of removing the cat if you aint do some serious mods to the car or change the fleck up muffler and the exhaust piping to something free flowing. Just polluting more. My comments were for a car with very little/ no mods. With the stock muffler setup, I find that the cars was sounding crappy after the they removed the cat. After geting some tuning done, the cars ran with what i considered almost as good as stock performance with a slightly different note to the exhaust, which did not soud like it was for the better.

The only stock component I think you really need to interfere with on a QG car is change out to a 2 row brass radiator first chance you get. Worth every penny.

My friend with the mishi got that stolen, which I think was best for her. Mech really fleck up the engine, remove thermostat, plug up PCV return I think, pull the throttle wire tight as a razor blade, remove the insulation from under the hood, cut O2 sensor wire, all kinda old time shite to fleck up she car. People need to understand that performance costs money, and cheap duct tape performance is not the way to go. Not everything you change would make a difference unless you have coordinated many items to make the upgrade effective.

Talk about the plugs for example. I did not get any better response from my car with a stock setup and ran just about the same with the high priced perrformance stuff. Now, if i had changed to a CAI, put in a grounding kit, headders and free flow exhaust, then I might have felt the difference if I changed the plugs. So what I am saying, the cat hollow out alone aint worth it, do a propper job and stop hoping for miracles from a an economical, environmentally friendly, clean burning engine. By the way, does you eco light work about the same after you took out the CAT?

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Postby Alpha_2nr » December 15th, 2007, 3:56 pm

By the way, I running qg18 Knight1, I just commenting on the speedo problem. I agree with what you say about most any car can hit 180.


:roll:

The denso probably would have helped if my car had a few more mods. Both sets last about 50,000Km in my engine.


It will have an effect on top end, say if you have adjusted your gapping along with a new / more powerful ignition system.

Other than that, it can prove useful (in terms of using a colder plug) when combatting detonation, as in my limited experience with Forced Induction


change out to a 2 row brass radiator first chance you get. Worth every penny.


A brass or copper rad is one of the worst things you can do.

people fail to realise that the Coolant we buy also carries deposit inhibitors.....anti scaling/antifoulers.....

....which WORK with/are intended for ALUMINIUM RADIATORS ONLY.

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Postby Funk_Master » December 16th, 2007, 7:06 pm

Whats the scenes fellow nissan owners? New kid on the nissan block! 2004 Y11 wingroad.... New year project is to follow the guideline Picasso put on page1! Anyone else followed the list or intending to? QG15 DE :mrgreen:

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QG
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Postby QG » December 17th, 2007, 12:25 am

removing the cat. helps the engine breathe better, the gases does not get choked and it will release faster.

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Postby RBphoto » December 17th, 2007, 10:50 am

Knight1,
I cannot think of anywhere that sels aluminum 2-row radiators with oil cooelrs, no plastic parts. I just changed out my radiator and I agree that aluminum and copper do not mix and if you use the ordinary green antifreeze, you will get in some horrors. However, if you use the new neutalized acid types with organic salts, you should be able to protect all components. I using the old green one till I change my themostat next week. Then I filling prestone pre mixed and redline water wetter. Prestone is marketed as a univerasl antifreeze/ coolant.

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