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the disc pad thread

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evolution91
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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby evolution91 » November 4th, 2011, 11:07 pm

rollingstock wrote:^ I used those for years, no dust is true but if you upgrade to a better pad there's a marked improvement, and those things are too harsh, they destroy rotors.




better pad like what

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby rollingstock » November 4th, 2011, 11:11 pm

^ right now i'm using Monroe, see a few posts back, works well for a daily driver.

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby ~Vēġó~ » June 23rd, 2012, 12:48 am

CD4Accord wrote:No problem man, you helped me out when I was looking at sizing the exhaust tips..

Are you able to give me more details about the differences in the braking systems between the A33 and J31 cefiros? Are the J32 (Teana) setups the same as the J31?
For some reason I always felt a bit more confident on the brakes in the A33 than the J31, which made me assume the calipers were different..

What is the difference between the rears?
Thanks


Hey man...I real sorry for the long delay in posting back eh...but here are the specs for the J31

J31

Front brake
Brake model CLZ25VD

Units are mm(inches)

Cylinder bore diameter 57.2 (2.252)

Pad Length × width × thickness 125.6 × 46 × 9.5 (4.94 × 1.81 × 0.374)

Rotor outer diameter × thickness 296 × 24 (11.65 × 0.94)

Rear brake

Brake model AD9A

Cylinder bore diameter 34.93 (1.375)

Pad Length × width × thickness 83.0 × 33.0 × 8.5 (3.268 × 1.299 × 0.335)

Rotor outer diameter × thickness 292 × 9 (11.50 × 0.35)


A33 (Singapore)

Front brake

Brake model CLZ25VC disc brake

Units are mm(inches)

Cylinder bore diameter: 57.2 (2.252)

Pad Length x width x thickness- 125.6 x 46 x 11(4.94 x 1.81 x 0.43)

Rotor outer diameter x thickness: 280 x 26 (11.02 x 1.02)

Rear brake

Brake model CL9HB disc brake

Cylinder bore diameter 33.96 (1.3370)

Pad Length x width x thickness :- 89.1 x 39.5 x 10(3.508 x 1.555 x 0.39)

Rotor outer diameter x thickness:- 278 x 9 (10.94 x 0.35)

I have no data for the J32....

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby searchingone » November 9th, 2012, 6:27 pm

fellas, urgent question:

First time I'm changing brake pads btw. I went to a place that sells EBC pads. The guy wasn't 100% sure if the pads he had would fit on my NZE corolla. He said he needed to see a pattern, which I didn't have. He suggested I trace out the pattern on paper and come back and compare it.
Is there an alternative way to verify this like a part number or something?

Also, how is the EBC brand compared to Wagner or Titanium or National?

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby X_Factor » November 9th, 2012, 6:30 pm

EBC is supposed to be better than all 3 of them mentioned
unless someone can give u a frame number the safest thing is to carry an old disc pad

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby searchingone » November 9th, 2012, 6:48 pm

shux. I don't have an old one since it's the first I'm changing pads....hopefully someone can provide me with the part number...searching in the mean time...

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby X_Factor » November 9th, 2012, 6:58 pm

Is it possible for u to take off a pad and carry it to the parts shop?

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby searchingone » November 9th, 2012, 7:11 pm

I never deal up with that na :| :oops:

what tools I'd need?

The front and rear has a different pattern right? so I'll have to remove front and back wheels to check..

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby *$kїđž!™ » November 9th, 2012, 8:48 pm

anyone have experience with intima pads?....bought a set to be installed tomorrow.....

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby searchingone » November 10th, 2012, 1:13 pm

Time was of the essence so I settled for Wagner QuickStop brake pads. Works really well so far.

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby X_Factor » November 10th, 2012, 3:06 pm

^ remember there is a "break in" period for the pads

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby *$kїđž!™ » November 10th, 2012, 3:41 pm

X_Factor wrote:^ remember there is a "break in" period for the pads


was told that Id have to drive under 70kmph for at least a week....

how the heck i gonna accomplish that on the highway....

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby wagonrunner » November 10th, 2012, 4:21 pm

*$kїđž!™ wrote:was told that Id have to drive under 70kmph for at least a week....

how the heck i gonna accomplish that on the highway....

how does that improve brake performance? doing that all the time will extend the life of the pad.
you need a couple firm quick applications of the brake, with time to let the pad cool.

have vehicle at a slow roll, do 5 sudden stops.
go up to 20kmh, do 5 sudden stops.

the pad is always in contact with the rotor, so no real bedding in.
what your trying to establish is proper brake line pressure, and good contact between piston shim pad and rotor.

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby *$kїđž!™ » November 10th, 2012, 7:04 pm

thanks for the advice wagon.....was just relating what I was told...

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby Ted_v2 » November 11th, 2012, 5:50 am

wagonrunner wrote:
*$kїđž!™ wrote:was told that Id have to drive under 70kmph for at least a week....

how the heck i gonna accomplish that on the highway....

how does that improve brake performance? doing that all the time will extend the life of the pad.
you need a couple firm quick applications of the brake, with time to let the pad cool.

have vehicle at a slow roll, do 5 sudden stops.
go up to 20kmh, do 5 sudden stops.

the pad is always in contact with the rotor, so no real bedding in.
what your trying to establish is proper brake line pressure, and good contact between piston shim pad and rotor.


Nice info.

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby searchingone » November 12th, 2012, 7:57 am

wagonrunner wrote:
*$kїđž!™ wrote:was told that Id have to drive under 70kmph for at least a week....

how the heck i gonna accomplish that on the highway....

how does that improve brake performance? doing that all the time will extend the life of the pad.
you need a couple firm quick applications of the brake, with time to let the pad cool.

have vehicle at a slow roll, do 5 sudden stops.
go up to 20kmh, do 5 sudden stops.

the pad is always in contact with the rotor, so no real bedding in.
what your trying to establish is proper brake line pressure, and good contact between piston shim pad and rotor.


woah thanks for that!

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby *$kїđž!™ » November 12th, 2012, 8:03 am

yeah wagon...good info...but i changed rotors as well...so....thats what i was told to do.....

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby Dave » November 12th, 2012, 9:47 am

you are supposed to have a new rotor surface when pads are new
i.e. cut rotor, replace or sand the hell out off them

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby xcalibur1 » December 13th, 2012, 12:21 am

p11 elite pads front $235.00 rear $200.00 princes town auto .. working good ...

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby Dave » December 13th, 2012, 8:36 am

I have been using alot of "Scorched" pads off late which basically means they require no break in and many from the first stop work great!
Off course none off these have made it to our shores as yet

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby CD4Accord » December 14th, 2012, 12:56 am

Scorched pads you say... Stop-Tech by chance?

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby FullStop » December 14th, 2012, 1:06 pm

Dave wrote:I have been using alot of "Scorched" pads off late which basically means they require no break in and many from the first stop work great!
Off course none off these have made it to our shores as yet


It doesnt mean no break in required, just means less break in required.

Every Posi Quiet brake pad has been scorched to reduce the amount of time it takes to break-in a new set of brakes. The scorching process from Centric Parts boosts key friction performance levels in the brake pads. By raising the initial cold effectiveness and stabilizing friction levels, scorching increases performance across the brake’s entire operating range. As brake pads are being scorched the surface is super-heated to extreme temperatures to mimic the initial brake-in process performed by installation technicians. This additional, but vital step is what causes any uncured bonding agent to dissipate, in turn eliminating the need to break them in. This also greatly reduces the noise level caused by pad glazing. In order to condition the brake pad material, which yields a more consistent and higher friction level right out of the box, the pads need to be scorched. By scorching every PosiQuiet brake pad, vehicle owners can count on the benefits of a complete bed-in of the new pads to the rotor, increasing the effective stopping power from the first stop.

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby ward one » December 14th, 2012, 1:38 pm

i use Wagner QuickStop brake pads in my wingroad y11. cost about $250 up depending on where u buy it.

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby FullStop » December 14th, 2012, 2:08 pm

ward one wrote:i use Wagner QuickStop brake pads in my wingroad y11. cost about $250 up depending on where u buy it.


I used to use those as well, switched to centrics, and cannot go back...tried using wagners once after switching and almost got into several accidents...too many close calls, the centric ceramics spoiled me...the only local pad I'd use now is mintex...and i still think that is crap.

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby ward one » December 14th, 2012, 5:04 pm

ghostbusters wrote:
ward one wrote:i use Wagner QuickStop brake pads in my wingroad y11. cost about $250 up depending on where u buy it.


I used to use those as well, switched to centrics, and cannot go back...tried using wagners once after switching and almost got into several accidents...too many close calls, the centric ceramics spoiled me...the only local pad I'd use now is mintex...and i still think that is crap.


wow never tried those. the guys from the motorist recommended me to buy the Wagner. bt i find they work well for me. i dont really drive that car alot nor do i drive fast so thats maybe y lol. :oops:

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby Ted_v2 » December 14th, 2012, 7:12 pm

Wagner works well , no problems thus far

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby X_Factor » December 14th, 2012, 8:21 pm

used wagner before and didnt like it
brake fade like wow


using pads that are half its price range and they hold alot better under same conditions
(national and titanium)

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby CD4Accord » December 14th, 2012, 9:10 pm

Mintex is a local pad? Local meaning it can be purchased in Trinidad I assume? I love the mintex, it was night and day vs the OHK on the pajero...

Concerning the wagner, it is an ok pad, but once you move up to something better you will struggle to go back to it.. I know exactly what ghostbusters means..
Quickstop is the cheapest of the wagner pads available.. They do make better ones such as ThermoQuiet and Edge but those are hard to find in TT and if you did they would be vastly overpriced..

The best OEM replacement ceramic I have EVER used has to be Akebono but I don't know about sourcing it locally..

On sportier cars I love stop-tech street performance.. I really didn't care that much for Hawk HPS

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby Strugglerzinc » December 15th, 2012, 2:46 pm

I've used Wagner Quickstop, ThermoQuiet, Bosch, Akebono Ceramic, Raybestos (Non Ceramic), Centric (Non Ceramic) and now StopTech.

The StopTech blows all else out of the water. Only caveat, dust like fcuk.

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby FullStop » December 15th, 2012, 10:45 pm

Strugglerzinc wrote:I've used Wagner Quickstop, ThermoQuiet, Bosch, Akebono Ceramic, Raybestos (Non Ceramic), Centric (Non Ceramic) and now StopTech.

The StopTech blows all else out of the water. Only caveat, dust like fcuk.


same here those stoptechs are brilliant.

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