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the disc pad thread

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby ~Vēġó~ » July 11th, 2011, 9:32 am

yup they are the same, front rotor is same....however the rear is different.

but I'll try your suggestion....I happen to have a set of wagner pads for the front, so it should not be a problem....thanks for your suggestions!

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby CD4Accord » July 11th, 2011, 5:40 pm

No problem man, you helped me out when I was looking at sizing the exhaust tips..

Are you able to give me more details about the differences in the braking systems between the A33 and J31 cefiros? Are the J32 (Teana) setups the same as the J31?
For some reason I always felt a bit more confident on the brakes in the A33 than the J31, which made me assume the calipers were different..

What is the difference between the rears?
Thanks

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby EVA Unit-01 » August 6th, 2011, 7:02 pm

hey, anyone knows where i can get Project MU brake pads for my CS3A Lancer?

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby *$kїđž!™ » August 16th, 2011, 2:56 pm

ready to change disc pads.....which is the best brand to go with or should i stick with the OEM s

The OEM's are priced around 700 a pair.....

any thoughts guys.....

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby X_Factor » August 16th, 2011, 3:03 pm

^i dunno if it was mentioned before
but what vehicle?

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby *$kїđž!™ » August 16th, 2011, 3:20 pm

yeah xfactor i now reading thru the tread.....

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby X_Factor » August 16th, 2011, 6:08 pm

^ i mean wha kinda car u have

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby EVA Unit-01 » August 20th, 2011, 4:08 pm

my mechanic checked my brakes today, said the pads were almost gone! :shock: don't understand, but the Hawk HPS only lasted me 30,000km of spirited driving with minor braking improvement (and a lot of facking dust!!) over OEM (which gave me 45,000km of spirited driving, including Solodex)...

anyway, since no one advised on where to source the Project Mu's, i ordered a set of EBC Redstuff... will give a review when i get them on

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby CD4Accord » August 20th, 2011, 7:44 pm

EVA unit, 30,000KM is not bad at all for Hawk HPS..
I got probably half that out of mine with some fairly hard driving (the Brembo Sport slotted rotors dont help either)...

The hawk is a good pad, but not worth the cost.. Hence why I just bought some Stop-Tech Street Performance.. Will put them on as soon as this currrent set of Hawk HPS is gone..

The EBC redstuff might actually dust a bit more than the Hawk, so look out for it...

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby xcalibur1 » August 22nd, 2011, 8:08 pm

am useing wagner organic .in my p11 wagon .. so far so good no dust no silly noises ....

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby EVA Unit-01 » August 28th, 2011, 10:06 am

so, yesterday i switched out my pads and was appalled to see what i was running! while i knew the semi-metallic dust from the Hawk HPS was quite a nuisance, and i speculated as to what it was doing to my brake system, the truth was far worse!

the entire setup was downright powdercoated in the rust-dust! my golden EBC rotors are now stained a nasty rusty red, the caliper was completely coated but thankfully was saved by a 1/2 can of brake cleaner. but the worse was the pad...

while the brake material was evenly worn and pretty smooth on the inside face, the backing was utterly demolished! the rustdust had coated the pad backing and eaten everything off of it until it was nothing more than a thin rusty metal plate... the mechanic asked if i went to war with those pads, he'd never seen anything like that before.

anyway, switched them out to my new EBC Redstuff ceramics and began the breaking in process... about 100km on them so far and already they're much better than the Hawk's. came home with a bottle of Mother's wheel cleaner and it took an hour's worth of effort to get the nasty Hawk dust of my rims.

i will NEVER advise anyone to use those Hawk HPS pads on their car, EVER! will give some feedback when the EBC's are broken in...

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby *$kїđž!™ » August 28th, 2011, 10:38 am

damn u guys really go all out for your cars...

decided to go with oem pads...the set on the car currently has lasted for aout 40000k so i think thats good

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby rollingstock » October 20th, 2011, 1:49 pm

Anyone here ever had any experience with Monroe Dymanics premium brake Pads?

I usually use Bosch on my daily driver galant after switching from Wagner some years ago, but was advised to use the Monroe by the owner of the supplier i buy from. I always received great advice from him and took a look at the Monroe, they came sealed and plastic wrapped in the box, with shim already installed and a packet of Monroe Brake Lubricant which is a first for me.

Is it all packaging?

A pic of the net.

Image

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby CD4Accord » October 20th, 2011, 9:41 pm

I have some friends that use the Monroe in the states... By US standards I would say its just above average...
By Trinidad standards, it is WAY above average.. Good pad, equivalent in quality to the wagner thermoquiet generally so you shouldn't have any issuses with it.. Be sure to use the lube though, its there to impart anti-squeal property..

Finally, how much did you pay for it? It is not particularly expensive in the US

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby rollingstock » October 20th, 2011, 9:50 pm

^ Paid about $620 for the set, front and back, saw it for a lot cheaper online.
But i'm changing my rotors and did not want to reuse the old pads despite they still having about 50% life still, the rotors left scour marks and grooves on them.

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby CD4Accord » October 20th, 2011, 11:56 pm

You did the right thing.. The rotors are worth way more than the pads so changing them was a good call..
I generally love pads that have the shims already part of it.. It is usually a mark of quality..

While you are at it, bleed the brakes and use a good quality brake fluid.. Castrol GT-LMA is my favourite at about $35 a bottle.. You will get 2.5 years use out of it easily..

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby X_Factor » October 21st, 2011, 7:31 am

anyone here uses the TOTAL (brand) DOT 4 fluid?
upgrading rotors n calipers and looking to do a flush out one time
I wanna know how this fluid holds up

used wagner dot 4 and got some brake fade on reaching maracas, with pretty much normal driving
i thought it boiled too quickly under no kind of stress

I have the Lockheed dot 4 presently and thats pretty decent

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby CD4Accord » October 21st, 2011, 7:51 am

X_factor, I am actually surprised that you were able to "get some fade" from DOT 4 fluid...
From my experience, fluid doesnt really tend to fade in a gradual way, it is more of a fluid liquid = brakes, fluid gas = pedal to the floor completely no brakes..
The only exception I have experienced is when using old fluid where the boiling point has been reduced SIGNIFICANTLY..
Generally, I try to buy brake fluid from popular places that move stock, ie. the fluid has not been sitting on the shelf for too long.. Believe it or not, brake fluid is so hygroscopic that it even absorbs water when in a sealed container...

I have a suspicion that whatever fade you would have felt could be attributed to the pad instead of the fluid.
All DOT 4 fluid has to conform to the spec minimum Dry boiling point 230 °C (446 °F), wet boiling point 155 °C (311 °F)..
Anything that you get above that is just a bonus based on the quality of the fluid.

If I am not mistaken, the lockheed dot4 has a DBP of 270C and WBP of 173C...
This is actually 5 and 18 degrees C higher than the much vaunted Castrol GT-LMA ,my favourite DOT 4 for normal use.. (ATE SuperBlue Racing DOT4 is my favourite for any sportscars)


The point of all this is that your fluid is probably not to blame, but no harm trying a different product. I have had only good luck with all Total products..

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_br ... d_1a.shtml

I always enjoy that link

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby rollingstock » October 21st, 2011, 8:38 am

CD4Accord wrote:You did the right thing.. The rotors are worth way more than the pads so changing them was a good call..
I generally love pads that have the shims already part of it.. It is usually a mark of quality..

While you are at it, bleed the brakes and use a good quality brake fluid.. Castrol GT-LMA is my favourite at about $35 a bottle.. You will get 2.5 years use out of it easily..


Yep doing a complete brake fluid change, using bosch dot 4 though, scrapping the calipers and checking seals and replacing the old grease with new moly based grease.

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby X_Factor » October 22nd, 2011, 8:36 am

CD4Accord wrote:X_factor, I am actually surprised that you were able to "get some fade" from DOT 4 fluid...
From my experience, fluid doesnt really tend to fade in a gradual way, it is more of a fluid liquid = brakes, fluid gas = pedal to the floor completely no brakes..
The only exception I have experienced is when using old fluid where the boiling point has been reduced SIGNIFICANTLY..
Generally, I try to buy brake fluid from popular places that move stock, ie. the fluid has not been sitting on the shelf for too long.. Believe it or not, brake fluid is so hygroscopic that it even absorbs water when in a sealed container...

I have a suspicion that whatever fade you would have felt could be attributed to the pad instead of the fluid.
All DOT 4 fluid has to conform to the spec minimum Dry boiling point 230 °C (446 °F), wet boiling point 155 °C (311 °F)..
Anything that you get above that is just a bonus based on the quality of the fluid.

If I am not mistaken, the lockheed dot4 has a DBP of 270C and WBP of 173C...
This is actually 5 and 18 degrees C higher than the much vaunted Castrol GT-LMA ,my favourite DOT 4 for normal use.. (ATE SuperBlue Racing DOT4 is my favourite for any sportscars)


The point of all this is that your fluid is probably not to blame, but no harm trying a different product. I have had only good luck with all Total products..

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_br ... d_1a.shtml

I always enjoy that link


You are right, there are many things that could have happened that caused/contributed the fade...from water content in existing fluid, pads, possible water content in bottle of fluid

Since i switched over to the lockheed, it feels safer, had to come to a couple complete stops while doing >130kph and was able to do so with no drops in pedal

I could easily go back with the lockheed but i dont know if its a good thing or bad in wanting to try new brands...

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby CD4Accord » October 22nd, 2011, 12:11 pm

Absolutely no harm in trying new brands so long as you stay even or move up in quality...

Once you go up to a quality pad and fluid setup though, no point ever looking back I think..
Maybe price can help you determine? How much for the lockheed dot4 vs my favourite Castrol GT-LMA

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby X_Factor » October 22nd, 2011, 1:43 pm

^I dont think there is much of a difference in price
around 35$ for 500ml's

There is also an Amsoil brake fluid but at 70$ for 350mls cyar afford that...but the CBP and WBP are excellent!

Presently using the "Satisified" brand pads with braided lines

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby rollingstock » October 22nd, 2011, 9:40 pm

Just finished change rotors, used the Monroe pads, and Lockheed dot 4 fluid.

Have to let the pads settle, but the pedal feel even this early is greatly improved, brakes extremely quiet and no more vibrations.

I must say i do good work.

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby CD4Accord » October 22nd, 2011, 10:38 pm

Good work is half the equation... quality of parts used is the other half..
When both come together, then it is a beautiful thing!

X-Factor... $70 for Amsoil brake fluid is wasting money...
If I was buying racing brake fluid I would go with one of the more reviewed brands such as ATE SuperBlue/TYP 200...
Yes both have very high boiling points, but thousands of users (myself included) can say FOR SURE that the ATE has extremely good non-compressive properties (firmer pedal) and will easily give you 2+ years...

Is the Amsoil bad? I don't think it would be.. It is a quality company, but I wouldnt buy it just because it has an amsoil name on it..

For your normal use cars, a good quality DOT4 is always the way... Racing fluid may be overkill unless you are buying it for its low compressibility

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby turbo_beast369 » November 3rd, 2011, 1:07 pm

CD4Accord does anyone sell the ATE SuperBlue/TYP 200 brake fluid locally?

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby CD4Accord » November 3rd, 2011, 5:28 pm

No idea brother... I hear that Garvin's in St James used to sell it but I never bought locally..

I had imported 4L of it and I am down to my last one now...
Even if you did find it here though, they would BUSSSS your head on price I suspect..
It usually costs around $100tt a liter in the states.. Add in trinidad jackup pricing and I don't think anyone should pay more than $175 for it..

If it is anything more than that, you can look into buying Ferodo DOT 5.1 or a good quality DOT 4

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby turbo_beast369 » November 3rd, 2011, 7:08 pm

^^thanks man

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby jhonnieblue » November 4th, 2011, 7:35 am

using TRW in my ford focus right now
less dust than oem
very good braking and holding

first time i heard of the brand though
anyone else with reviews on it

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby evolution91 » November 4th, 2011, 10:23 pm

wagner around $160 holds good, doesnt grab, and absoutlely no dust..

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Re: the disc pad thread

Postby rollingstock » November 4th, 2011, 10:50 pm

^ I used those for years, no dust is true but if you upgrade to a better pad there's a marked improvement, and those things are too harsh, they destroy rotors.

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