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how would u rate NP engine oils....

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larafan
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how would u rate NP engine oils....

Postby larafan » July 17th, 2005, 8:30 pm

more specifically..that ultra tech oil...the new one they have....

how would u rate it against other big name oils...castrol...quakerstate....dem kinda things?

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Postby 1NZ-FE Powered » July 18th, 2005, 4:43 pm

Never trusted NP oils after my old man did an enging job on a bluebird some years back. He used NP Ultra oil in the car - at that time it carried the "SH" rating which NP touted as the highest industry standard for engine oils. When he dropped the oil pan, the sludge in the pan was almost an inch thick. (He joked at the time that NP forgot to add the "IT" part of its oil rating). After seeing that, when he rebuilt the engine, he switched to Shell Helix oil. When I "inherited" the car, I continued to use the Shell oil, but never had to drop the oil pan after that, so I did not have any visual reference as to whether the Shell was any better in terms of sludge build-up.

Fast forward a few years when I got my B14 (roro), I started using Mobil 1 Synthetic from day 1. I has one occasion to reseal the oil pan on that and when the mechanic took it down, there was almost no sludge in the pan (after almost 3 years of using Mobil 1).

Don't know if your question was answered, but given the 2 points of reference that I have (and the synth vs dino oil differences nothwithstanding), I probably will never use NP oil in any vehicle I ever own again.

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Postby Terran » July 18th, 2005, 6:37 pm

I will never use NP oils. I have seen the tests over and over for myself. Shell Helix oils ARE the most advanced motor oils engineered in the world.

Observe carefully any bottle of NP oil that stands on the shelf for over a month. Don't shake it - look through the clear line on the bottle and you will see the colour of the oil varies from top to bottom - the bottom being darker than the top. Observe the sludge at the bottom. That's what goes into your engine. Their oils are not properly filtered and not thoroughly blended to ensure that the additives - dry and wet - are properly mixed together. With this inferior formulation, the oil is likely to break down faster as the additives have not properly bonded together to perform what they are required to do. This, coupled with poor storage of their base oils result in water, soil and other forms of sediments being accumulated in the oil. THIS GOES INTO YOUR ENGINE.

Several years ago, NP was contracted by Castrol to blend and distribute Castrol oils. The local market was not significant enough for Castrol to set up blending and distribution operations here. After years of destroying the brand's name, NP's contract was brought to an end, and Castrol seized control of distribution - importing oils from neighbouring blending plants to Trinidad. NP had eroded their (Castrol's) reputation as one of the leading motor oil manufacturers in the world. Now they are earnestly trying to stay alive in this more competitive market, having lost major representation with automotive brands like Toyota, Hyundai and Mitsubishi which are imported direct from Japan using Shell oils ONLY.

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Postby ~Vēġó~ » July 18th, 2005, 7:35 pm

Shell Helix oils ARE the most advanced motor oils engineered in the world.



ah boy ah like what ah see there!!!!........Shell Helix has been proven amongst some of the GDI Galant men here to also keep the lifters quiet as compared to the more expensive brands.......

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Postby sleepertercel » July 18th, 2005, 8:11 pm

Mee too...I swear by Shell oils too...some good results in the past.

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Postby Terran » July 18th, 2005, 8:21 pm

I'll see if I can get my hands on all the literature and proof of test results and post them here.

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Postby ~Vēġó~ » July 18th, 2005, 8:26 pm

^^^that would be most appreciated! 8)

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Postby Rx » July 19th, 2005, 8:43 am

I still believe in MOBIL 1 8)


my 2 cents 8)

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Postby [X]~Outlaw » July 19th, 2005, 9:03 am

^^ I concur

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Postby skindog » July 19th, 2005, 11:27 am

Rx wrote:I still believe in MOBIL 1 8)


I agree.... no complaints here....

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Postby Iceman » July 19th, 2005, 11:48 am

I use nothing but Castrol GTX, but look at it this way. What will happen to our local stuff if nobody local believes in them. I mean are they lying about the ratings, is that legal, when they say 20W50 isnt that a worlwide standard. With that said, ah still using meh GTX :wink:

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Postby Xman » July 19th, 2005, 4:37 pm

I using quakerstate......will try the Shell helix since the reviews are so good. I used NP once and the other day the oil was black like tar.that was the end one time.........I've been with quakerstate ever since and after three months the oil still golden...........

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Postby Terran » July 19th, 2005, 5:01 pm

See... now that's the kinda stuff I'm talking about. NP oils use little or NO detergents, so it serves no purpose to CLEAN your engine. It only provides lubrication. When the additives are not properly blended, they cause sludging. Added to that, your engine is likely to accumulate/intake dust and other particles. So if the oil is already sludging, and your engine is getting dirty, what is cleaning it and protecting the corrosive parts?

Shell oils are high in detergent power, so they work to continuously CLEAN your engine. Specially formulated 'man-made' additives perform at extreme temperatures, therefore, heating is controlled and your engine maintains consistent, GOOD performance even during long drives and other extreme atmospheric conditions. You get peace of mind, and better fuel economy. Shell oils align to your engine's walls and form their own protective 'shell', maintaining a clean, efficient machine.

Now for those of you who find this little info orgasmic, when you decide to switch, it is recommended that you do your first Shell oil change after 3000km from your switchover. During this time, it is expected that the Shell oil would have cleansed your engine and done everything else the former brand couldn't. :wink:

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Postby Terran » July 19th, 2005, 5:46 pm

Iceman, I take it that the ratings you are really referring to are the API (American Petroleum Institute) ratings - such as SG, SH, SJ. These refer to performance levels, as oils may have more than one performance level. For automotive gasoline engines, the latest oil service category includes the performance properties of each earlier category. If an automotive manual calls for an API SH or SJ oil, an API SL oil will provide full protection. Diesel engine oils, however, may not include the performance properties of an earlier category.

Here are some of the ratings for gasoline engine oils:

SL - Current - For all automotive engines presently in use. Introduced on July 1, 2001. SL oils are designed to provide better high-temperature deposit control and lower oil consumption.

SJ - Current - For 2001 and older automotive engines.

SH - Obsolete - For 1996 and older engines.

SG - Obsolete - For 1993 and older engines.

SF - Obsolete - For 1988 and older engines.

SE - Obsolete - For 1979 and older engines.

SD - Obsolete - For 1971 and older engines.

SC - Obsolete - For 1967 and older engines.

SB & SA - Obsolete - For older engines. Use only when specifically recommended by the manufacturer.

As technologies advanced over the years, vehicle manufacturers stipulated certain levels of engine oil performance to optimise the vehicle's perfromance. So, even though NP, Shell, Mobil, Castrol or Quaker State are producing SL rated oils, they do meet the requirement levels, however, their performances do vary by brands and depend on the use of the correct viscosity grade.

Which takes me to my next point...

20W-50 isn't a rating. It identifies the oil as a multigrade oil. Multigrade oils are widely used because - under all but extremely hot or cold conditions, they are thin enough to flow at low temperatures (for instance, on start up) and thick enough to perform satisfactorily at high temperatures. Vehicle requirements vary. Monograde oils are just one straight grade, for instance SAE 30, SAE 40, SAE 50. These oils are usually recommended for use in older engines. In modern engines, multigrade oils are more effective for start ups as the engines are more compact and have finer spaces that the oil is required to lubricate. For instance, on cold starts, a 20W-50 will flow faster to lubricate and protect your engine's components than a 'straight body oil' like an SAE 50. In Ferrari engines, the oil is required to flow through passages thinner than your finger nail. Think about it this way: which flows faster - water or honey?

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Postby TurboDrive » July 20th, 2005, 6:28 am

I am a Quakerstate person but I am going to give Shell a trial at my next oil change. :|

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Postby Anton » July 20th, 2005, 7:34 am

But nobody check the ultra tech performance?

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Postby Terran » July 20th, 2005, 7:59 am

Tell us about it, Anton. Have you tried it? Do you "hear the sound technology makes"?

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Postby MadCrix » July 20th, 2005, 11:15 am

honda men who have vtec, should stick to quaker. the mobile 1 oil is too thick to enguage the vtec soloniod at the designated enguagment point.

on the dyno, in my car and kevins sir, instead of 6200rpm, vtec came in at 6500 and above. when we switched to quaker (thinner oil) it was working as it should.

we allso loss hp due to the mobile

mobile is an excellent opil, just not for vtec. 20w 40 is wha i use quaker all the way

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Postby Terran » July 20th, 2005, 4:45 pm

Thickness hardly differs by brand, MadCrix. It differs by viscosity grade. Re-read my post above.

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Postby Duane 3NE 2NR » July 20th, 2005, 6:53 pm

Honestly I belive in AMSOIL, unfortunately its difficult to get in T&T so I have been using Castrol Full Syntec

NP Ultra Tec is not manufactured by NP - they just bottle it and rebrand it - I iwll see if I can find out what brand of oil it is - It may be Shell or Quakerstate for all we know or maybe even Texaco Synthetic, but I know for a fact that it is a top performer that they just rebottle - happens all the time in the lube industry

BTW terran ah know yuh wukkin Shell eh!!! :lol:

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Postby Anton » July 21st, 2005, 7:57 am

Terran wrote:Tell us about it, Anton. Have you tried it? Do you "hear the sound technology makes"?


No i never tried it. I use castrol synthec blend, but i'd like to hear a review from someone who did.

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Postby MadCrix » July 21st, 2005, 9:31 am

well i said thickness eh buh i was using the lay mans term, sorry

i meant viscosity lol

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Postby Terran » July 21st, 2005, 4:30 pm

Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:Honestly I belive in AMSOIL, unfortunately its difficult to get in T&T so I have been using Castrol Full Syntec

NP Ultra Tec is not manufactured by NP - they just bottle it and rebrand it - I iwll see if I can find out what brand of oil it is - It may be Shell or Quakerstate for all we know or maybe even Texaco Synthetic, but I know for a fact that it is a top performer that they just rebottle - happens all the time in the lube industry

BTW terran ah know yuh wukkin Shell eh!!! :lol:


Dude, ah not working there anymore. I couldn't drink the oil, so I switched to a company where I could drink the stuff we produce, plus generate profits while doing it. :lol:

AND, having worked there before, there's no way NP will ever bottle and rebrand a Shell oil. Shell won't trust anybody to do their marketing and distribution for them, unless you do it exclusively. When PriceSmart Chaguanas first opened up, they were selling Shell oils, manufactured in the US (Texas, I think). Shell Trinidad got news of this and quickly got them to remove it from their shelves as not only did it place Houston in competition with Trinidad, but, Laughlin and DeGannes was the sole authorised distributor for Shell products in Trinidad.

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Postby Maserati » July 21st, 2005, 4:38 pm

don't trust NP at all..

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Postby cheese pie » July 21st, 2005, 5:17 pm

now im a big fan of full synthetics such as mobil one or castrol full syntec but in older engines that have not been using syntec oils and may have some oil comsumption issues i say a good mineral based oil such as castrol GTX , both shell and mobil i had to add a quart every 500 Km or so in my older accent , but castrol GTX used a HALF quart every 1500 to 2000 Km

the choice of oil depends not only on what u want but the age and condition of your engine

as crix said mobil is great im benz , BMW ect but play the ass with VTEC , i heard alot ah ppl complain about the same thing here in the UK , the Euro type R bois i talked to sware by quaker and shell , NOT MOBIL , then again honda makes thier own oil

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Postby MadCrix » July 21st, 2005, 7:12 pm

see i not talking shiet lol. is true quaker or shell for honda vtec engines

remember vtec engaugement depends on 3 things,


oil pressure
temp
and speed signal from speed sensor

if yuh oil pressure to low .... no vtec ( low oil pressure meaning oil not being forced through the vtec solonoid to engauge vtec)

if your car cold..... no vtec

if your speed sensor gone..... no vtec

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Postby Terran » July 21st, 2005, 8:11 pm

First of all, USE THE OIL THAT IS RECOMMENDED BY YOUR VEHICLE'S MANUFACTURER. Pay attention to viscosity grade and API rating.

There are different viscosity grades of synthetic oils. Personally, I have used 3 different grades of Shell synthetic oils: 10W-30 - which is recommended for my car - 15W-40 and 5W-40. The 15W-40 worked best. The 10W-30, though recommended, is particularly advised for European countries, considering their climate. But we're in the tropics. Therefore, an oil as thin as a 10W-30 is not required and may not perform at its best.

Now, I have used the 5W-40. This is a very thin oil, which, at ambient temperature will perform at the viscosity grade of a 40-body. It thickens when temeperature rises. If you are using an oil as thin as this in an engine that does not require it, what do you expect to happen?

Now, cheese pie, you referred to using Shell or Mobil in your "older" Accent. What grade did you use, and what was recommended by your manufacturer?

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Postby pete » July 22nd, 2005, 8:09 am

In my swift they suggest 10w-30. With the heat in trinidad no way I gonna run such a thin oil. The car was run on Mobil 15w-50 full synthetic and now I've switched to castrol syntec blend 20w50. I figure with the age of the engine it'll need a slightly thicker oil. (it's close to 200,000km)

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Postby ~Vēġó~ » July 22nd, 2005, 9:21 am

^^^^the gdi requires a 10W30 as well but I in some doubt as to put that......ting is that viscosity oil may be very good for keeping lifters quiet but then yuh have the climate factor to study............I doh know I feel I'll just give it a try just to see!!!!

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Postby Terran » July 22nd, 2005, 5:25 pm

Well, my experience on running 5W-40 Shell Helix Ultra (fully synthetic) on my Tercel was very good, but the oil consumption was higher than the 15W-40. Excellent resistance to heat! I ran it for 58,000km before reverting to the the 15W-40 because I needed to top up. :wink:

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