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Engine Break-in "how to"

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Sanctifier
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Re: Engine Break-in "how to"

Postby Sanctifier » December 17th, 2011, 11:23 am

Hook wrote:aye aye! wagonrunner tryin to get mih in chubble! :lol:
Me---> :angel: ... :rofl:

Anyway, to get back on track...

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Sanctifier
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Re: Engine Break-in "how to"

Postby Sanctifier » December 18th, 2011, 6:44 pm

UPDATE: These tips from AMS are VERY important. Ignore them at your peril :!:
AMS wrote:If you have had an engine failure such as a spun bearing or any other failure; your ENTIRE oiling system has been contaminated with metal shavings. Metal debris from engine failure will RUIN your new engine!

Most items can be cleaned out such as the oil pan etc… but you CANNOT clean out your oil cooler enough to be re-used. No amount of cleaning will get all of the debris out. Please perform the following steps when installing your new engine:

1. Replace the engine oil cooler: This is the most important step of all. Oil coolers CANNOT be flushed out completely. You can never get all of the debris out of the internal fins of the oil cooler. The OEM EVO oil coolers are very expensive; AMS offers an aftermarket/upgrade oil cooler for a very reasonable cost.

2. Clean out the cylinder head: Bring the cylinder head to a reputable machine shop, explain your engine failure and have them inspect and clean the cylinder head.

3. Clean everything in the oil system: Thoroughly clean all engine oil system parts that you don’t replace (oil pan, dipstick tube, oil filter housing, oil pickup tube, etc...)

4. Flush out the turbo: Once the engine is installed disconnect your crank sensor to disable the engine from starting. Remove the oil return line from the turbo and fill the crank case with fresh oil. Crank the engine allowing oil to drain from the turbo until clean oil comes out (roughly 2 qts.). Be careful not to run the engine out of oil while doing this. Connect oil return line to turbo when done.

*

5. Priming your new engine before start up: Your new engine must be primed with oil before start up. Fill your engine with fresh oil to full level on the dipstick.
With the crank sensor still disconnected crank the engine until the oil light on your dashboard turns off, this means you now have oil pressure and are ready to start your new engine.
Connect the crank sensor and start the engine. Carefully monitor oil pressure.
If oil pressure is low or the oil light comes on immediately shut off the engine.
Sanctifier wrote:* I would fill the engine & cooling system with HOT Water AFTER Step #4... and BEFORE Step #5 to encourage as much "pre-start" cylinder head & block expansion as possible. That way, the engine stays for a SHORTER time at a brisk & fluctuating idle (1,200-2,500 rpm?) before proper engine "warm-up" is achieved.

NOW---> CANE IT! ("to Red-line" as described above)... "in-gear" for about 3 miles.

THEN do your 1st Oil Change a.s.a.p.
As they say... A word to the wise is sufficient! :wink:

roadbwoy
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Re: Engine Break-in "how to"

Postby roadbwoy » February 20th, 2012, 2:02 pm

i doz beat every new engine i have hard with high load situation. my rational eis to use cylinder pressures to JAM de rings against the cylinder wall while the coarse hone is still there, before it wears smooth. This guarantees the best piston seal for the life of the engine. It works for me. highest compression, highest power, lowest oil consumption. me nuh worry about cam shaft and ting, him load does never change except with rpm

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VexXx Dogg
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Re: Engine Break-in "how to"

Postby VexXx Dogg » June 28th, 2012, 11:46 am

Tips from Cosworth.
Specific to their engines, but good points all round.
http://www.cosworthusa.com/store/pc/cat ... 0v1.0c.pdf

carter2
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Re: Engine Break-in "how to"

Postby carter2 » December 3rd, 2012, 2:10 am

Hey thanks for the information on engine break!
Its really helpful and important!

amitrajput
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Re: Engine Break-in "how to"

Postby amitrajput » February 18th, 2013, 2:16 am

Interesting to read from the very beginning to the end. Great information!!

Adam smith
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Re: Engine Break-in "how to"

Postby Adam smith » March 26th, 2013, 2:41 am

I read the blog Great idea thanks for sharing.

TriTime
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Re: Engine Break-in "how to"

Postby TriTime » March 26th, 2013, 9:45 am

Interesting!

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Mr. Fixables
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Re: Engine Break-in "how to"

Postby Mr. Fixables » June 28th, 2013, 8:37 am

Not a bad post, however, the Post states "engine break in" so the brakes and clutch part is not applicable.

It is best to break in you engine by RPM, not speed, as some people claim. However, if this is a new car, the factory break in periods are far shorter if not non applicable anymore with the modern way of engine building from the factory.

Kirk

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4G63Turbo
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Re: Engine Break-in "how to"

Postby 4G63Turbo » January 23rd, 2018, 11:56 am

Has anyone had negative experiences from either of these break in methods?
evo owners?

yup old post I know.......

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Aaron 2NR
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Re: Engine Break-in "how to"

Postby Aaron 2NR » January 23rd, 2018, 12:47 pm

New car give it hard out the box


When I rebuilt my Subaru engine no boost until 700km and no hard decelerations

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4G63Turbo
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Re: Engine Break-in "how to"

Postby 4G63Turbo » January 31st, 2018, 10:12 am

I thought deceleration in gear helps with the seating...........am I wrong?

anyone else's success / failure story's........please share.

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Aaron 2NR
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Re: Engine Break-in "how to"

Postby Aaron 2NR » January 31st, 2018, 10:48 am

gradual is fine but not downshift from 3rd into 2nd at redline

jrwb59
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Re: Engine Break-in "how to"

Postby jrwb59 » January 31st, 2018, 12:26 pm

There is no evidence to suggest that driving 'hard' makes an engine more powerful...utter rubbish.

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4G63Turbo
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Re: Engine Break-in "how to"

Postby 4G63Turbo » February 2nd, 2018, 1:21 pm

a lot of people believe "soft break-in" is best due to new parts needing to "ware into each other"
but the same amount of people believe that "Hard break-in" is better for sealing the rings.

both arguments have good points. with some big names involved too.
There is no evidence to suggest that driving 'hard' makes an engine more powerful...utter rubbish.

what I've read also is to use the full range of RPM's but gradually slow down using engine breaking. not actually hard as in fast. but is this what you mean?

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