Electrical problem

[Terran]

Hi folks.

I have a 4AGE blacktop 20V automatic in an AE91 Corolla, which runs quite well.

Lately, it has been experiencing some electrical problems.

To cut a long story short, I have changed the alternator twice and the battery once within the last 2 months. The two have been tested repeatedly and seem to be in optimum working condition. Charging voltage is approximately 14V. The battery is rated at 560 amps. Additional accessories include a pair of aftermarket fog lamps, a 50W radio with 2 6x9 speakers. And that's it.

However, there seems to be low voltage powering the accessories. Indicator lamps blink very slowly. When the park lights are turned on, the dashboard lights dim considerably, and there is a drop in idle by about 100rpm when the headlights are subsequently turned on. If the lights are on when the indicators are used, the dashboard brightens and dims in tandem with the interval at which the indicator blinks. When the brakes are applied, there is a notable flicker on the dashboard lights, and a slight drop in idle by about 50rpm. All these conditions are also notable but do not appear worse when the air condition is on.

I have spent a lot of money trying to resolve this problem and been through 3 electricians. I would like to believe that apart from their apparent unreliability, that the problem is not complicated and maybe I can resolve it myself - with some help. Okay, a lot of help - since I don't know very much about electrical systems.

Can anyone offer some advice on where to start (and how to finish)?

[Pitch Black]

Ok padnerz don't doh hutt yuh head and doh be goin all over de place with yuh corolla by dem dotish electricians and dem to tell yuh y yuh didn't put ah sr20 in the car. Jus take ah nice lil drive to the bamboo pass the old seenaths and ask for ah man name RYAN DINDIAL #795-2370. Could put meh head on ah block for this man he go sort yuh out cause he sort me out with worst problems than that.

[Race Champ]

Check the ground sometimes it may just be a ground problem. Had experienced something similar to your problem with an engine swap. Turned out to just be a ground . To fix this problem a ground directly from the battery was placed on the engine.

[belalegosi]

Check the ground sometimes it may just be a ground problem.

This.
Sounds like a battery ground is corroded or the wire has corroded.
The wire insulation could look perfect but somehow water could make its way in and corrode the copper.

Ensure the battery is getting 14v charge from alternator. I take it your engine is fuel injected right?
Sometime is draining/shorting your electrical system it seems like.
With the car off (all lights off too) see if there is any current draw from the battery. Should be little if any.
Get a multimeter and check continuity on all your grounds around the battery. See where that leads you.

[Terran]

jnqaz, thanks for your advice. I don't have a multimeter, but it seems like a good starting point. I'll probably go back to Master Serv where I get the battery tested and ask the technician to go through this with me. Another thing I have noted is that the radio does not come on all the time, but when it does, it functions perfectly. I have not done any nightime driving since detecting these problems. One day while testing the indicator lamp, it eventually "froze" in the on position after about 2 minutes of constant, slow flashing.

[Terran]

Didn't get the time to take the car to Master Serv today, but I made a short outing yesterday and ended up leaving for home later than planned. Got home in darkness. Fortunately no incidents. Indicator lamps blinked slowly, dash flickered, radio shut on and off on its own... as what has been the case with this issue.

This evening, however, I made use of my indicator and it flashed as it SHOULD - steady, normal. I was quite surprised that I took my eyes off the road to observe the dash and almost hit the car in front of me. I got home, put on everything and got near perfect operation except for the dash lights dimming and brightening with the indicator flashes. Air condition, headlights and foglights, radio and hazzard lights. I don't understand this. Will see what happens tomorrow.

[VexXx Dogg]

Sounds like a grounding issue, as mentioned above.

Had a similar problem with my civic eons ago. Upgraded the major ground to 4AWG and fabricated a complete grounding kit by the electrician. Also upgraded the Alt to Battery Positive to 4AWG and this seemed to fix my issue.
Only cost a couple hundred bux material and labour.

[Terran]

More erratic electrical behaviour.

Radio turns on and off, and when it goes off, it can't be turned on again until it just comes on itself. Turn signals blinking slowly in the morning, faster (normal speed) on evenings. Mashing brakes makes a notable break in current - for a fraction of a second, it's as if everything stops, but it's heard more than felt. Wipers stopped working yesterday during the rain, then started again. The only consister performer is the air condition. I continue to avoid driving when darkness falls in case I lose lighting. I went to Master Serv once more to do a check and got 12.8V at idle with air condition, radio and headlights on and 13.8V when revved to about 2000rpm. They practically refused to do anything more at that point and said "go look for an electrician." Low idle has been an issue for some time now and has deteriorated with this problem.

I've done tons of reading and received ample advice here to change/check the grounding wires.

Tomorrow, my mechanic will change/install grounding wires with 4AWG wire as suggested by VexXx Dogg. Will let you all know the outcome.

[nervewrecker]

The +tive from the alt connected to the +tive on the batt? I have heard of an instance on this very forum where a dudes electrical system was tapped off the alt +tive and not the batt +tive. Mind you there was a cable run from the batt +tive to the alt +tive.

[Terran]

So, I changed ground wires and added a couple. I used 0-guage wire (pretty thick). No significant improvement.

The only thing that works consistently (so far) is the radio. It hasn't been switching on and off on its own since then.

So, I'll be giving Ryan Dindial a call.

[Pitch Black]

yea pall should have done that a long time now but am sure u will get through

[Terran]

Hey Pitch Black, I tried calling Ryan today. No luck. My phone displayed that the number is unreachable. I don't know if bmobile playing up as usual or if that is really the case.

Does anyone know of an alternative contact number?

[Pitch Black]

Nah buddy dont have alternative contact number but jus drive down during the week and yuh sure to find him atleast to talk to him face to face cause he might jus tell yuh bring the car for him to see

[Terran]

I may not have a problem doing that... Can I get some directions, please?

[Terran]

UPDATE

I took the car to yet another electrician today. He changed the flasher unit (which I ruled out as a possibility) and also found that the tail lights were drawing a lot of power. I had a relay lying around in the trunk which he used, and there is no longer as heavy a dip in current when the park lights are switched on or when the brake is applied. It's hardly a noticeable dip - the idle is stable and the dashboard does not flicker, but I think I will change the bulbs and see if there's an additional improvement. The flasher unit made a perfect improvement in the indicator lamps, but this one is quiet and that takes a little getting used to.

I have had a low idle problem along with these other issues, and at least it's no longer affected when any of the lights are switched on.